Editors

Lab-grown diamonds: A consumer’s perspective

EditorsJul 09, 2014

Lab-grown diamonds: A consumer’s perspective

It’s been a rough (no diamond pun intended) past couple of weeks for two of the industry’s largest producers of lab-grown diamonds.



It’s been a rough (no diamond pun intended) past couple of weeks for two of the industry’s largest producers of lab-grown, or synthetic, diamonds.

The board of Scio (formerly Boston-based Apollo) in Greenville, S.C. got what they wanted, forcing out interim CEO Gerald McGuire just a week after he took office, along with board members Edward Adams, Robert Linares (who is Adams’ father-in-law and the founder of Apollo), and Theodorus Strous. Scio shareholders had been advocating for change for months, pointing out that the company isn’t making any money.

Gemesis also announced major changes, hiring new CEO Lisa Bissell, who spent 20 years with diamond wholesaler M. Fabrikant & Sons, and changing its name to Pure Grown Diamonds. According to Gemesis, they brought Bissell on board to promote transparency within the lab-grown diamond industry, which is badly needed. Her appointment is part of the company’s vision to “set new benchmarks for the grown diamond industry,” Gemesis said.

These changes are, to me, a sign that these two companies are having trouble forging their identities, getting a foothold in the consumer market and, at the end of the day, making sales.

But why? What is the trouble with this product that, according to some sources, was poised to bring down the entire mined diamond industry in just a few short years?

To find the answer to this, I chose not to call jewelers but instead to go straight to the source: consumers. What do the people on whom the industry depends to buy diamonds think of lab-grown stones? Would they buy them?

Here’s what I found out in conducting this (very informal) poll.

1. “Lab-grown diamonds are a thing?” In conducting my (again, very informal) research, what became quickly apparent is that many people don’t know diamonds can be grown in a laboratory. “As a 27-year-old, my friends and family members are getting engaged at a rapid rate,” one respondent wrote. “I don’t have a single friend who has a lab-grown diamond engagement ring, nor have I ever spoken with someone … who has wanted one. Honestly, I don’t think many consumers are aware of them, especially men.”

If they are aware that lab-grown diamonds exist, they don’t understand the difference between a lab-grown stone, which is an actual diamond with the same optical, physical and chemical properties as the stones that grow naturally underground, and what we
in the trade would refer to as a simulant: a stone that is made to look like, to simulate, a diamond but has a different chemical composition. The most common diamond simulant is cubic zirconia, or CZ.

Three of the people I polled mentioned CZ in the same sentence as lab-grown diamonds, not aware that there’s a difference. “Is this not the same thing as a cubic zirconia?” one respondent asked, while another wrote, “I do know about them (lab-grown diamonds) although I am not sure where they end and cubic zirconia/Swarovski crystal begins.”

2. Though there’s a lack of awareness, the stones aren’t a complete turnoff. Despite the lack of education on the existence and exact composition of lab-grown diamonds, I would characterize the overall reaction toward the stones as positive.

This is mainly due to the ethical aspect of lab-grown diamonds and, unfortunately, the perceived lack of ethics and human rights issues many think are inherent in the mining of natural diamonds.

It should be no surprise to anyone that today’s consumers are concerned about the origin of the products they buy; this has been stated time and time again in the seemingly endless number of surveys conducted about the Millennial generation. It is a trait that, in my opinion, is exhibited by members of Gen X as well.

One of my respondents, a self-proclaimed “diamond illiterate,” had no idea that lab-grown diamonds even existed until I asked her about them. But she was thrilled to learn about the stones; just look how many exclamation points she used in her response: “I had NO idea that diamonds could be lab-grown! I would absolutely be open to a lab-grown diamond, even over an ethically sourced (mined) one. I think it completely changes decisions and conversations!”

Another respondent who went with a mined diamond for her engagement ring--she liked the symbolism of something that had been forged over time under heat and pressure marking her union--said she’d be open to buying lab-grown diamond jewelry in the future.

In her response, she exhibited another trait apparent throughout the Millennials and the younger members of Gen X: They have no desire to “keep up with the Joneses.”

“I don’t feel I’ve anything to prove to anyone so I am not concerned about if what I’m wearing is ‘real’ or not. I’m more interested in the aesthetics (and ethics) of my jewelry,” she wrote.

3. They don’t like the term ‘lab-grown.’ One very interesting point that came up in my (again, very informal) poll is that the term “lab-grown” does not have widespread consumer appeal.

A few of my respondents thought the product could use a marketing overhaul and, apparently, so did Gemesis, which, as noted above, is now calling itself Pure Grown Diamonds and states on its website that, “All diamonds from Pure Grown Diamonds are lab-created, guaranteeing a socially and ecologically responsible point of origin.”

“They need to come up with another name other than lab-grown diamond,” one of my respondents wrote. “It’s brilliant how some bag-makers call their bags ‘vegan’ purses for their synthetic leather bags. I admit I feel better about myself when I purchase a ‘vegan’ purse.  I think the same could be done for the lab-grown diamond market.”

Another said, “’Grown’ in particular sounds weird … you’re losing the symbolism of something valueless and common being turned into something beautiful and rare(er) thanks to pressure and time. You have to compensate for that somehow.”

While having a “vegan” equivalent for lab-grown diamonds appeals to consumers, the industry is bound by Federal Trade Commission rules, which dictates that the term “laboratory-created,” “laboratory-grown,” or “(manufacturer name)-created,” precede the word diamond when describing a stone that was grown in a laboratory.

These FTC guidelines are jewelry-industry inside baseball, so to speak, and would not be something the people I polled would know about in commenting on lab-grown diamonds. But, overall, I do think their answers give interesting insight into consumers’ perspective on lab-grown diamonds.

Retailers, what do you think? Do the above thoughts align with your customers’ thoughts and feelings on lab-grown diamonds?
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Gemist
TechnologyJun 27, 2025
Gemist Raises $6M in Funding to Scale Jewelry Tech Platform

The company is focused on modernizing the custom jewelry buying experience with e-commerce tools like product visualization and 3D styling.

Jeff Preolo, David Stout, Levi Higgs, David Benavides
IndependentsJun 27, 2025
David Webb Announces New Hires, Promotions

Following its recent acquisition, the storied brand has updated its leadership team and regional managers.

Blake Graham and Jessica Kohoutek
Events & AwardsJun 27, 2025
AGS, GIA Announce Beatrice Shipley Scholarship Winner

AGS also named the recipient of its “Women in Leadership” scholarship.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

Buddha Mama Monstera Ring
CollectionsJun 27, 2025
Piece of the Week: Buddha Mama’s ‘Monstera’ Wrap Ring

The 20-karat yellow gold and diamond wrap ring is modeled after the Monstera plants in the garden of the brand’s Miami villa.

Weekly QuizJun 26, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Cashier handing Rocksbox bag to customer
MajorsJun 26, 2025
Why Rocksbox Is Opening Stores As Signet Jewelers Downsizes

Rocksbox President Allison Vigil shared the retailer’s expansion plans, and her thoughts on opening stores in malls.

Penny Ruston
IndependentsJun 26, 2025
Penny Ruston Dies at 80

The creator of the WJA Chicago chapter is remembered as a champion for women in the jewelry industry and a loving grandmother.

Jewelers of America logo with meetup, State of the Majors, giveaway and massages
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America is Headed to Las Vegas for JCK 2025

The countdown is on for the JCK Las Vegas Show and JA is pulling out all the stops.

Stock image of woman shopping
SurveysJun 26, 2025
After Recovering in May, Consumer Confidence Dips in June

The decline was consistent across age groups and almost all income groups, with tariffs and inflation still top of mind.

Sorellina Playlist: Electric Dreams Campaign
CollectionsJun 26, 2025
Jam Out With Sorellina’s Jimi Hendrix-Inspired Jewels

The “Playlist: Electric Dreams” collection brings lyrics from the musician’s song, “Little Wing,” to life through fine jewelry.

The Jewelry Symposium event
Events & AwardsJun 26, 2025
The Jewelry Symposium Is Looking for Speakers for 2026 Event

The event is set for May 16-19 in Detroit, Michigan.

Exterior of Marissa Collections’ new store in Nantucket, Massachusetts
IndependentsJun 25, 2025
Marissa Collections Opens in Nantucket as Legal Fight Continues

The Vault’s Katherine Jetter is accusing the retailer of using info she shared for a potential partnership to move into Nantucket.

Counterfeit Cartier “Juste Un Clou” bracelet
CrimeJun 25, 2025
Customs Nabs Another Big Shipment of Fake Cartier, Van Cleef Jewelry

Agents seized 2,193 pieces, a mix of counterfeit Cartier “Love” and “Juste Un Clou” bracelets, and Van Cleef & Arpels’ “Alhambra” design.

Karine Choudhrie Big Splash Circus Starfish and Lantern Fish
CollectionsJun 25, 2025
Splash into Karina Choudhrie’s Collection of Underwater Circus Performers

The designer brought her children’s book, “The Big Splash Circus,” to life through a collection of playful fine jewelry characters.

Jewelers of America
Events & AwardsJun 25, 2025
JA Announces Impact Initiative Fund Recipients

The trade association has chosen the recipients of the funding initiative it formed to foster the growth and sustainability of the industry.

John Dyer Montana Sun Sapphire
SourcingJun 25, 2025
2025 AGTA Spectrum Awards Open for Entries

The organization has also announced this year’s slate of judges.

Lori Tucker
IndependentsJun 24, 2025
Colorado Bench Jeweler Celebrates 50 Years With Local Retailer

Lori Tucker started at Williams Jewelers when she was 18 years old.

“Marvel | Citizen Zenshin” watch for the new The Fantastic Four movie
WatchesJun 24, 2025
Citizen’s New ‘Fantastic Four’ Watch Is Literally Super

The “Marvel | Citizen Zenshin” watch is crafted in Super Titanium and has subtle nods to all four “Fantastic Four” superheroes on the dial.

XO Tacori diamond ring
MajorsJun 24, 2025
Tacori, QVC to Launch Exclusive Lab-Grown Diamond Jewelry Collection

The “XO Tacori” collection was designed to blend luxury and accessible pricing.

Pritesh Patel
GradingJun 23, 2025
GIA Names New President and CEO

Pritesh Patel, the lab’s chief operating officer, will take over as president and CEO of GIA.

Graphic for Las Vegas recap episode of “My Next Question”
Recorded WebinarsJun 23, 2025
Watch: Top Trends at Couture, JCK Las Vegas 2025

National Jeweler and Jewelers of America discuss the standout jewelry trends and biggest news to emerge from the shows this year.

Luanda Accord
SourcingJun 23, 2025
Diamond Producers, Organizations to Kick in Money to Promote Natural Diamonds

Signatories to the “Luanda Accord” committed to allocating 1 percent of annual diamond revenue to the Natural Diamond Council.

Penny Preville, Maggie Hess, Stella Song, and Benjamin King
Events & AwardsJun 23, 2025
Jose Hess Design Awards Celebrate 6 Jewelry Designers

The winning designs captured the “Radiance” theme.

24th Gem Awards Show Logo
Events & AwardsJun 23, 2025
Gem Awards Now Accepting Nominations for 2026

Nominations in the categories of Jewelry Design, Media Excellence, and Retail Innovation will be accepted through July 30.

Single Stone Bryn Ring and Grace Lee Marquise Demi Demi Ring
TrendsJun 20, 2025
Dua Lipa Stays On-Trend With Chunky Engagement Ring

The singer’s ring ticks off many bridal trends, with a thick band, half-bezel setting, and solitaire diamond.

Yvonne Léon Python Gold Bracelet
TrendsJun 20, 2025
Piece of the Week: Yvonne Léon’s ‘Python Gold’ Bracelet

The bracelet references vintage high jewelry and snake symbolism as a playful piece where a python’s head becomes a working belt buckle.

Stock image of handcuffs
CrimeJun 18, 2025
7 Men Indicted in $100M Brinks Jewelry Heist

The heist happened in Lebec, California, in 2022 when a Brinks truck was transporting goods from one show in California to another.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy