Grading

SSEF Now Offers Coral ‘DNA Fingerprinting’ Services

GradingJun 02, 2020

SSEF Now Offers Coral ‘DNA Fingerprinting’ Services

Researchers discovered a new methodology using minute amounts of coral DNA material to identify the species.

20200602_SSEF-coral.jpg
New DNA fingerprinting technology from SSEF and the University of Zurich will help identify precious coral in jewelry, as in this necklace featuring 55 beads from the Mediterranean Corallium rubrum species. (Photo credit: SSEF)

Basel, Switzerland—A breakthrough study about DNA fingerprinting for precious coral has led to a new service offered by the Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF) to identify coral species.

Researchers from SSEF and the University of Zurich’s Institute of Forensic Medicine recently published “DNA fingerprinting: an effective tool for taxonomic identification of precious corals in jewelry” in leading peer review journal Scientific Reports.

According to SSEF, the new methodology detailed in the article uses minute amounts of DNA recovered from precious coral to identify its species.

This is important because several precious coral species are listed on the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species and need to be correctly identified and declared to be legally traded.

The DNA fingerprinting technology is minimally destructive, SSEF said, requiring “considerably less sample material” than other methods, with testable DNA being recovered from as little as 2.3 milligrams (0.0115 carats) of material.

SSEF’s Laurent Cartier told National Jeweler the coral material should be submitted loose for testing so the lab can access it properly; coral material strung on a necklace or in cabochon form could be unmounted, he added.

As with all scientific techniques, there are some limits—Cartier said if there is too little DNA or the DNA is too degraded, it won’t work.

But he added there are no other methods currently for conclusively identifying coral species, “so this can still be considered a breakthrough.” And, it has worked on all the samples SSEF has tested so far.

Cartier said they continue to improve the research and methodology as well as add material to their collection to provide a reference for comparison.

SSEF research, in fact, led them to discover a coral variety previously unknown as a species used in the jewelry trade: pleurocorallium niveum.

The lab’s testing will always be done in combination with other techniques routinely applied to coral, like trace-element chemistry and Raman spectroscopy, to give the lab access to new information, SSEF said.

The new coral identification service is being offered in partnership with the Institute of Forensic Medicine at the University of Zurich.

For additional information and details, read the full article about the study on Nature.com or visit the SSEF website.

Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Karl Getschel and Bob Yanega of Smyth Jewelers
IndependentsAug 14, 2026
Smyth Jewelers to Open Fourth Location

The family-owned jeweler will open a new showroom in Bel Air, Maryland, this fall.

Stock image of a gavel
CrimeAug 14, 2026
Wife of Man Convicted in Jeweler’s Murder Sentenced for Conspiracy

Amanda Ileana Hernandez is married to Carlos Hernandez, one of two men in prison for the 2024 murder of Michigan jeweler Hussein Murray.

Paul Morelli Wavey Vine Earrings
TrendsAug 14, 2026
Paul Morelli’s Latest ‘Wavey Vine’ Earrings Embrace Color

The reimagined jewel, our Piece of the Week, trades the diamonds in the original 1998 design for blue, pink, yellow, and green sapphires.

1872-x-1052-July-ad (1).png
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying Events

Retailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.

Cover.jpg
Supplier BulletinAug 13, 2026
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk About

Sponsored by American Gem Trade Association

Weekly QuizAug 13, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Two Pandora Talisman pendants
FinancialsAug 13, 2026
Pandora’s ‘Talisman’ Collection Shines, Lab-Grown Diamond Sales Fall

In the United States, second-quarter sales were flat amid soft consumer sentiment and lower in-store traffic.

Cuckoo Cuckoo Cadbury Conundrum egg
AuctionsAug 13, 2026
This Gold Cadbury ‘Conundrum’ Egg Set a World Auction Record

The 22-karat gold egg, sold at Batemans Auctioneers in the U.K., was part of a 1980s treasure hunt ad campaign for Cadbury Creme Eggs.

Brought-To-By-Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center Stage

Colored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.

Picture of 2,488 carat rough diamond next to tweezers, a golf ball, and a loupe
SourcingAug 13, 2026
2,488-Carat Diamond, Largest Found in Botswana, Has a New Owner

Lucara Diamond Corp., which recovered the “Motswedi” diamond from the Karowe mine, sold the stone for an undisclosed amount.

John Hardy Heishi Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsAug 13, 2026
John Hardy Infuses ‘Icon,’ ‘Heishi’ Collections with Color

The expanded collections now feature hand-cut gemstones like topaz, tanzanite, chrysoprase, chalcedony, smoky quartz, and fire opal.

Jean Dousset Westfield Valley Fair
Lab-GrownAug 13, 2026
Jean Dousset Opens Third Store

The lab-grown diamond jewelry brand’s newest boutique is in Westfield Valley Fair in Santa Clara, California.

Legacy emerald
SourcingAug 12, 2026
Eshed-Gemstar on the Painstaking Process of Cutting ‘The Legacy Emerald’

The gemstone supplier and manufacturer acquired the remarkable 104-gram Zambian emerald at Gemfields’ auction in May.

Surveillance image of jewelry thieves
CrimeAug 12, 2026
Elderly NYC Woman Targeted in Jewelry Swap Scheme

Two suspects offered to trade the woman a “winning” lottery ticket for her jewelry.

The Finsch Diamond Mine in South Africa, owned by Petra Diamonds Ltd.
SourcingAug 12, 2026
Another Diamond Mine Poised to Close

Finsch has been in business rescue since May, and owner Petra Diamonds said it sees no viable path forward for the mine.

Stock image of gavel, handcuffs, and law books
CrimeAug 12, 2026
Jewelry Store Employee Gets 20 Years to Life in Choking Death of Boss

Michel Patrick DeSalles was sentenced after pleading guilty to the 2017 murder of Omid Gholian, who owned a jewelry store in Manhattan.

Beth Miller Frederick Goldman
MajorsAug 12, 2026
Frederick Goldman Names New SVP of Sales

Longtime industry executive Beth Miller has taken on the role.

Verdura unicorn brooch
AuctionsAug 11, 2026
Verdura Unicorn Brooch With Royal Connection Up for Auction

The brooch was owned by Virginia Fortune Ryan Ogilvy, who served as a lady of the bedchamber to Queen Elizabeth II for nearly 50 years.

Jamie Cygielman
MajorsAug 11, 2026
Signet Jewelers Selects Mattel Exec to Lead Zales, Banter

Jamie Cygielman will take on the role on Aug. 24.

Richard Moore
IndependentsAug 11, 2026
Polly’s Fine Jewelry Co-Owner Richard Moore Dies at 69

Moore, Polly’s husband, is remembered as a family man with an easygoing spirit and a love for sports and the outdoors.

National Jeweler columnists Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams
ColumnistsAug 11, 2026
Creative Connecting: How to Sell Colored Gemstones to Gen Z

Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams share the best ways to display, present, and explain colored gemstones to younger customers.

NAJA logo
Events & AwardsAug 11, 2026
NAJA Announces Lineup For 2026 Fall Virtual Conference

The mid-year conference for jewelry and watch appraisers will take place Sept. 5-6 on Zoom.

Honest Hands Workbench Ring Builder
TechnologyAug 10, 2026
Colorado Jeweler Launches Customization Tool He Built Himself

Honest Hands Ring Co. Founder Benjamin Bosworth shared his thoughts on jewelry technology and why AI can never replace the human element.

QVC Group logo
MajorsAug 10, 2026
QVC Exits Chapter 11 Bankruptcy, Names New Interim CEO

QVC Group President and CEO David Rawlinson is temporarily being replaced by a familiar face, former QVC CEO Mike George.

State Property Lorenz Station Bracelet
CollectionsAug 10, 2026
State Property Puts a Ripple in the ‘The Voyager’ Collection

The brand also added two one-of-a-kind brown diamond pieces to the “Sanssouci” series of its “Gardens” collection.

Ostbye receiving Vendor of the Year trophy at 2026 IJO show
MajorsAug 10, 2026
And IJO’s 2026 Vendor of the Year Is …

Ostbye took home top vendor honors at the Independent Jewelers Organization’s show, held last month in Kentucky.

1872-x-1052-July-ad (2).png
Supplier BulletinAug 07, 2026
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying Events

Sponsored by Stratus Estate Buyers

Blue Nile President Pamela Cloud
MajorsAug 07, 2026
Retail Veteran Pam Cloud Appointed President of Blue Nile

Cloud, who will officially join Blue Nile on Monday, spent 26 years at Tiffany & Co. and founded jewelry brand Roseate.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy