Grading

GIA Spots Second Natural Diamond with Lab-Grown Layer

GradingMay 22, 2019

GIA Spots Second Natural Diamond with Lab-Grown Layer

The stone is 0.64 carats and graded as a fancy grayish-greenish blue.

20190522_lab_grown_natural_header.jpg
Gemological Institute of America researchers said the gray and blue components from the lab-grown layer of this diamond combined with the yellow from the natural substrate to create the color, fancy grayish-greenish blue. (Photo credit: Robison McMurtry)

Carlsbad, Calif.—GIA researchers recently spotted a second natural diamond with a lab-grown layer that added weight and improved the color, and warned that it could mean the trade will see more of these kind of composites.

According to an article by Troy Ardon and Garrett McElhenny in the spring 2019 edition of “Gems & Gemology,” the presence of both boron- and nitrogen-related defects—which are rarely seen together in natural diamonds—tipped them off there was something unusual about the stone.

The DiamondView fluorescence image of the diamond—a 0.64-carat fancy grayish-greenish blue cushion modified brilliant—showed a blue hue caused by the “cape” peak (nitrogen defect) and natural growth features.

The crown image, however, revealed a greenish-blue color common to boron-bearing diamonds and the dislocation patterns typically seen in diamonds grown using the chemical-vapor deposition (CVD) process.

In addition, a side view shows a distinct layer between the natural substrate and the CVD-grown portion of the stone.

This image shows the line of demarcation between the natural diamond and the CVD-grown layer. (Photo credit: Garrett McElhenny)

“These two distinct fluorescence patterns—the greenish-blue from the CVD layer and the darker blue from the naturally grown layer—prove that a layer of CVD synthetic diamond was grown on a natural substrate,” the article states.

A similar diamond, a 0.33-carat fancy blue that was also Type IIb with a CVD layer, was submitted to GIA in May 2017.

The CVD layer on this latest diamond is substantially thicker, 200 microns (approximately the thickness of two strands of human hairs) vs. 80 microns on the 0.33-carat diamond evaluated two years ago, and GIA noted that seeing a second example of this same type of composite could signal a new type of product entering the market.

The lab would not say if both diamonds came from the same client.

GIA also declined to comment on how the stones were submitted—as natural diamonds, or as natural/lab-grown composites—but did note that clients submitting goods are required to disclose all known treatments as well as whether a stone is natural or man-made.

To see more from the spring 2019 edition of “Gems & Gemology,” the Gemological Institute of America’s quarterly research journal, visit GIA.edu.

Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Lulo Rose pink diamond
SourcingAug 19, 2025
Dubai’s Jemora Group Buys Diamond Miner Lucapa

The investment company, founded by Dev Shetty, has acquired the struggling miner and its assets, including the Lulo mine in Angola.

National Jeweler columnist and jewelry sales expert Peter Smith
ColumnistsAug 19, 2025
Peter Smith: The Arrival Fallacy and Jewelry Retail

Smith shares wisdom he gleaned from a podcast he was listening to one morning while being walked by his dog, a Malshi named Sophie.

Fake Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra earrings
CrimeAug 19, 2025
Customs Seizes 7,300 Pairs of Fake ‘Alhambra’ Earrings

The counterfeit Van Cleef & Arpels jewels would have been worth more than $30 million if genuine.

japac-btyb.png
Brought to you by
Rallying Call for the Jewelry Industry on Tariffs and Other Key Issues

Jewelers of America is leading the charge to protect the industry amidst rising economic threats.

MJSA Logo
MajorsAug 19, 2025
MJSA Apprenticeship Program Is Nationally Recognized

The MJSA Mentor & Apprenticeship Program received the Registered Apprenticeship Program designation by the U.S. Department of Labor.

Weekly QuizAug 15, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Masaki Obu
WatchesAug 19, 2025
Casio America Names New Timepiece Division Manager

Casio executive and watch enthusiast Masaki Obu is the new general manager of its U.S. timepiece division.

Michael Barabash and husband Raymond Cuadrado
MajorsAug 18, 2025
Verragio’s Michael Barabash, a ‘Kind Soul,’ Dies at 58

Barabash, Verragio’s client relations representative, was a vital member of the team and is remembered as being warm and full of life.

rio-article photo-diamond.jpg
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine Jewelry

As a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.

John Hardy Dot Coil Necklace and Dot Hoop Earrings
CollectionsAug 18, 2025
John Hardy’s New ‘Dot’ Collection Is on Point

Originally introduced in 1992, the “Dot” collection is back with a capsule featuring five archival designs and three new creations.

IJO Vendor of the Year Allison-Kaufman
Events & AwardsAug 18, 2025
IJO Announces 2025 Vendor of the Year

Allison-Kaufman has received the honor for the fourth year in a row.

Image of Winona Ryder and Iman from Pandora’s Be Love marketing campaign
FinancialsAug 15, 2025
In Q2 Results, Pandora Talks Tariffs, Q4 Plans

The company had a solid second quarter, with sales of non-charm jewelry outpacing sales of pieces in its core collections.

Taylor Swift Etho Maria ruby earrings The Life of a Showgirl TS12
EditorsAug 15, 2025
Piece of the Week: Etho Maria’s Showgirl-Approved Ruby Drop Earrings

Taylor Swift dons the vibrant pair in new promotional imagery for her upcoming album, “The Life of a Showgirl,” set to release in October.

Audemars Piguet Starwheel Watch
WatchesAug 15, 2025
Audemars Piguet Acquires Majority Stake in Manufacturer

Its investment in micromechanics expert Inhotec will preserve skills essential to the watchmaking industry as a whole, said the company.

Nicolette Bianchi
MajorsAug 15, 2025
Rio Grande Names New Marketing Director

Nicolette Bianchi joins the wholesale provider with more than 15 years of cross-industry experience in marketing and product development.

Pippa Small Myanmar Fish Cluster
CollectionsAug 14, 2025
In Midst of ‘Sardine Girl Summer,’ Pippa Small Looks to ‘Flounder Fall’

Her new “Ocean” collection was inspired by Myanmar’s traditional articulated fish jewelry, with depictions of flounder, catfish, and more.

Casio America CEO Yusuke Suzuki
MajorsAug 14, 2025
Casio America Names New CEO

Longtime Casio executive Yusuke Suzuki is the new president and CEO of Casio’s U.S. subsidiary.

LA Trading Day
SourcingAug 14, 2025
West Coast Orgs to Host Trading Event, Mixer in LA

The full-day sourcing and networking event, slated for Aug. 18, will be followed by the fifth annual Mega Mixer Summer Soirée.

Cristiano Ronaldo and Stephanie Gottlieb Ring
TrendsAug 13, 2025
Cristiano Ronaldo Proposes With Gigantic Oval-Cut Diamond

Model Georgina Rodríguez received a rock of an engagement ring, with her diamond estimated to be 35 carats, experts say.

International Colored Gemstone Association logo
SourcingAug 13, 2025
ICA Names 2025 Board of Directors

The board elected 9 new directors at its recent ICA Congress in Brazil.

Whiskey Barrel Ring
TrendsAug 13, 2025
Colorado Jeweler, Whiskey Maker Collab on Ring Giveaway

Three winners will receive a custom ring from Honest Hands Ring Co. inlaid with a piece of history from Denver-based distillery Stranahan’s.

People shopping in a mall
SurveysAug 13, 2025
These Are The 25 Hottest Retailers, Says NRF

JD Sports and Wawa were among the fastest-growing retail companies in the U.S. last year.

Columbia Gem House Winza sapphires and rubies
SourcingAug 13, 2025
Columbia Gem House Launches Winza Sapphires, Rubies

The new inventory, all untreated, features vibrant hues and unique bicolor combinations.

Gemfields Faberge
SourcingAug 12, 2025
Gemfields Sells Fabergé for $50M

Acquired by a tech investor, the historic brand will continue to focus on jewelry, accessories, and timepieces.

Shipping containers on a ship
Policies & IssuesAug 12, 2025
Higher Tariff on Chinese Imports Paused for 90 Days, Trump Says

President Donald Trump issued an executive order extending the pause on higher tariffs to November as negotiations with China continue.

Jacquie Aiche Thunderbird Slab Collection Campaign
CollectionsAug 12, 2025
Jacquie Aiche’s New Collection Harnesses the Energy of the Thunderbird

The “Thunderbird Slab” collection features a thunderbird motif as a symbol of power, protection, and boundless possibility.

Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams
ColumnistsAug 12, 2025
Creative Connecting: How to Take a Better Headshot

Columnists Jen Cullen Williams and Duvall O’Steen share tips on how to elevate your professional image.

Vigil for slain Wheat Ridge, Colorado jeweler Peter Damian Arguello
CrimeAug 11, 2025
Man Convicted of First-Degree Murder in Death of Colorado Jeweler

Peter Damian Arguello, a jeweler in the Denver suburb of Wheat Ridge, was found dead inside his store in November 2023.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy