CollectionsApr 02, 2025
Bea Bongiasca’s ‘Tarallo’ Collection Expansion Is a ZooThe pieces in “Animali Tarallo” portray animals from stingrays to elephants through portraits and interpretations of their patterns.
GradingMar 13, 2019
HRD Antwerp Is Now Grading Lab-Grown Diamonds Like Natural
The laboratory has started grading man-made diamonds using the same color and clarity scales it applies to mined stones.
The new grading report for man-made diamonds from HRD Antwerp. The lab has started using the same color and clarity grades for lab-grown diamonds as it does for natural stones. (Photo courtesy of HRD Antwerp)
Antwerp—HRD Antwerp is now grading lab-grown diamonds using the same color and clarity scales it applies to natural stones, the laboratory confirmed to National Jeweler.
In its new man-made grading reports, which launched last week, HRD Antwerp has migrated from having just five color grades—colorless, near colorless, faint, very light and light—to the same 13 that it uses for natural diamonds—D to M, plus N-O, P-R and S-Z.
The Belgian grading lab is also switching from five clarity grades—free of inclusions (FI) to included (I)—to the same 10 applied to mined diamonds, starting with loupe clean (LC) and ranging to P3 (pique 3).
“Our aim is to serve the industry as a whole, from rough to consumers. We identified a need for better transparency and support concerning the new complications [meaning undisclosed mixing of lab-grown diamonds with natural] that arise with lab-grown diamonds,” the lab said in a statement to National Jeweler. “For this reason, we developed the set of measures explained above. The certification is just one piece of the complete puzzle of services we provide to enhance trust and transparency.”
HRD Antwerp has been issuing grading reports for lab-grown diamonds since 2013.
In the fall, it plans to add a report for finished pieces of jewelry set with man-made stones (the lab already issues reports for jewelry set with natural stones.)
The issue of how to grade lab-grown diamonds is a source of disagreement in the trade.
In October 2016, National Jeweler talked to Tom Moses, the Gemological Institute of America’s executive vice president and chief laboratory and research officer, about why the GIA uses a limited, less specific grading scale in its “Synthetic Diamond Reports” instead of the four Cs.
In the interview, Moses said that generally speaking, lab-grown diamonds are nitrogen-poor, so they are going to be of high color and clarity and not exhibit the same range of color and clarity as mined diamonds.
The GIA’s grading system, which was created long before lab-grown diamonds were prevalent, was “developed for normal mine run, which doesn’t change,” he said. “That’s nature.”
Moses’ remarks generated some back-and-forth in the story’s comments section, and a more recent editorial by JCK News Director Rob Bates—who thinks the GIA should offer the standard 4Cs scale for lab-grown diamonds—sparked a slew of online conversation over the grading of lab-grown diamonds.
Moses said in the October 2016 interview with National Jeweler
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
that he didn’t see GIA altering the way it grades lab-grown diamonds in the “near future,” but changes in the market over the past two years, coupled with the Federal Trade Commission’s recent revisions to its Jewelry Guides, have forced the lab to change course.
GIA spokesman Stephen Morisseau told National Jeweler last week that it will be launching new reports for man-made diamonds “in the near future,” though details on exactly what will be changing beyond the title—the FTC now says that the term “synthetic” is confusing to consumers—have not been released.
GIA spokesman Stephen Morisseau told National Jeweler last week that it will be launching new reports for man-made diamonds “in the near future,” though details on exactly what will be changing beyond the title—the FTC now says that the term “synthetic” is confusing to consumers—have not been released.
More on Grading
The Latest
MajorsApr 02, 2025
Neiman Marcus’ Dallas Flagship Will Remain Open, For NowParent company Saks Global said the iconic location will be open through the holiday season as it decides what to do with the space.
SourcingApr 02, 2025
Winston’s Collection of Natural Color Diamonds Now on Display in D.C. Ronald Winston, son of Harry Winston, donated the diamonds to the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History in Washington, D.C.
Brought to you by
The Heart of the Industry: Giving Bench Jewelers the Recognition They DeserveBench jewelers spend years honing their skills, Jewelers of America’s Certification validates their talents.
Policies & IssuesApr 02, 2025
Jewelers of America to Hold Webinar on TariffsThe virtual event will take place April 7 at 3 p.m.
Weekly QuizMar 27, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Events & AwardsApr 02, 2025
Punchmark to Host Client WorkshopThe educational event will take place in Charlotte, North Carolina, this May.
IndependentsApr 01, 2025
Bergman Jewelers in Omaha Closing After 137 YearsThe independent jeweler first opened its doors in 1888.
Brought to you by
Natural Diamonds Should Mean MoreNatural diamonds mean more than lab-grown, but when every cut is ideal, they all look the same. Customers want more—Facets of Fire delivers.
MajorsApr 01, 2025
QVC Group to Cut 900 Jobs in the U.S.The layoffs come amid the TV shopping channel’s efforts to restructure and focus on live shopping through social media.
Events & AwardsApr 01, 2025
U.S. Antique Shows Adds Fall Show in FloridaThe debut event will take place in Miami’s Coconut Grove neighborhood this fall.
Events & AwardsApr 01, 2025
TJS to Host Discussion on Jewelry Industry’s Labor ShortageThe roundtable will take place May 17 ahead of the trade show’s welcome dinner.
CollectionsApr 01, 2025
Monica Rich Kosann Says ‘Good Grief’ in Peanuts Jewelry CollectionThe “Peanuts x Monica Rich Kosann” collection features the comic strip’s classic vocabulary across 10 bracelet designs.
Recorded WebinarsMar 31, 2025
Watch: What Do We Mean When We Say ‘Recycled’ Gold?Three industry experts dive into the complexities of the material often marketed as an “ethical” alternative for metal in jewelry.
TrendsMar 31, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Dripping in DiamondsDiamonds are not only one of the most prominent gemstones, but the birthstone for those born in April.
MajorsMar 31, 2025
Lashbrook Expands Into Luxury Golf Gifts With AcquisitionThe Utah-based company known for making wedding bands has acquired Doubloon Golf.
WatchesMar 31, 2025
Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin Will Also Head LVMH WatchesThe longtime luxury executive led one of LVMH’s watch brands, TAG Heuer, for 12 years before taking over Bulgari in 2013.
CrimeMar 28, 2025
2 Suspects Arrested in $1.7M Smash-and-Grab Robbery of NY Jewelry StoreAuthorities said the robbers fled with jewelry and 70 Rolex watches, later taking pictures of themselves posing with big stacks of cash.
SourcingMar 28, 2025
19th-Century Jade Book Now Available in EnglishLotus Gemology founder Richard W. Hughes has translated Heinrich Fischer’s 1880 book “Nephrit und Jadeit” from its original German.
CollectionsMar 28, 2025
Piece of the Week: Löf’s ‘The Valentine’ RingThe ring's design features contrasting lines influenced by work from architecture-inspired photographer Nikola Olic.
SurveysMar 27, 2025
Consumer Confidence Falls in March Amid ‘Gloomy’ OutlookThe Conference Board’s index fell as consumers continued to worry about the impact of tariffs, the labor market, and the price of eggs.
AuctionsMar 27, 2025
300-Year-Old Ring Linked to Witch Trial Judge Goes Unsold at Auction However, two medieval jewels surpassed estimates at Noonans Mayfair’s recent jewelry auction in London.
WatchesMar 27, 2025
Austin Butler Joins Breitling as Brand AmbassadorThe Oscar-nominated actor debuted in the campaign for the new “Top Time B31” collection, which introduced Breitling’s Caliber B31.
SourcingMar 27, 2025
Susan Jacques, Gaetano Cavalieri to Headline 2025 ICA Congress The Congress is scheduled to take place May 19-22 in Brasilia, Brazil.
IndependentsMar 26, 2025
Bailey’s Fine Jewelry Acquires Fellow NC Independent JewelerThe family-owned retailer is the new owner of Morrison Smith Jewelers in Charlotte, North Carolina.
WatchesMar 26, 2025
Bulova Celebrates 150th Anniversary With Art Deco WatchesThe “150 Art Deco” collection features a Miss America timepiece and a pocket watch from the brand’s Archive Series.
MajorsMar 26, 2025
QVC Group Appoints New PresidentAlex Wellen, formerly CEO and president of MotorTrend Group, has taken on the role.
Events & AwardsMar 26, 2025
Jewelers of America Announces New Funding Initiative The Impact Initiative is part of the nonprofit association’s new three-year strategic plan.
