Recorded WebinarsMar 31, 2023
Watch: How Is the Industry Doing When It Comes to Diversity?Annie Doresca and Michelle Graff welcome Reggie Johnson and Sheryl Jones for a frank conversation on the state of DEI in fine jewelry.
GradingMar 13, 2019
HRD Antwerp Is Now Grading Lab-Grown Diamonds Like Natural
The laboratory has started grading man-made diamonds using the same color and clarity scales it applies to mined stones.
The new grading report for man-made diamonds from HRD Antwerp. The lab has started using the same color and clarity grades for lab-grown diamonds as it does for natural stones. (Photo courtesy of HRD Antwerp)
Antwerp—HRD Antwerp is now grading lab-grown diamonds using the same color and clarity scales it applies to natural stones, the laboratory confirmed to National Jeweler.
In its new man-made grading reports, which launched last week, HRD Antwerp has migrated from having just five color grades—colorless, near colorless, faint, very light and light—to the same 13 that it uses for natural diamonds—D to M, plus N-O, P-R and S-Z.
The Belgian grading lab is also switching from five clarity grades—free of inclusions (FI) to included (I)—to the same 10 applied to mined diamonds, starting with loupe clean (LC) and ranging to P3 (pique 3).
“Our aim is to serve the industry as a whole, from rough to consumers. We identified a need for better transparency and support concerning the new complications [meaning undisclosed mixing of lab-grown diamonds with natural] that arise with lab-grown diamonds,” the lab said in a statement to National Jeweler. “For this reason, we developed the set of measures explained above. The certification is just one piece of the complete puzzle of services we provide to enhance trust and transparency.”
HRD Antwerp has been issuing grading reports for lab-grown diamonds since 2013.
In the fall, it plans to add a report for finished pieces of jewelry set with man-made stones (the lab already issues reports for jewelry set with natural stones.)
The issue of how to grade lab-grown diamonds is a source of disagreement in the trade.
In October 2016, National Jeweler talked to Tom Moses, the Gemological Institute of America’s executive vice president and chief laboratory and research officer, about why the GIA uses a limited, less specific grading scale in its “Synthetic Diamond Reports” instead of the four Cs.
In the interview, Moses said that generally speaking, lab-grown diamonds are nitrogen-poor, so they are going to be of high color and clarity and not exhibit the same range of color and clarity as mined diamonds.
The GIA’s grading system, which was created long before lab-grown diamonds were prevalent, was “developed for normal mine run, which doesn’t change,” he said. “That’s nature.”
Moses’ remarks generated some back-and-forth in the story’s comments section, and a more recent editorial by JCK News Director Rob Bates—who thinks the GIA should offer the standard 4Cs scale for lab-grown diamonds—sparked a slew of online conversation over the grading of lab-grown diamonds.
Moses said in the October 2016 interview with National Jeweler
that he didn’t see GIA altering the way it grades lab-grown diamonds in the “near future,” but changes in the market over the past two years, coupled with the Federal Trade Commission’s recent revisions to its Jewelry Guides, have forced the lab to change course.
GIA spokesman Stephen Morisseau told National Jeweler last week that it will be launching new reports for man-made diamonds “in the near future,” though details on exactly what will be changing beyond the title—the FTC now says that the term “synthetic” is confusing to consumers—have not been released.
GIA spokesman Stephen Morisseau told National Jeweler last week that it will be launching new reports for man-made diamonds “in the near future,” though details on exactly what will be changing beyond the title—the FTC now says that the term “synthetic” is confusing to consumers—have not been released.
More on Grading
The Latest
MajorsMar 31, 2023
Macy’s Longtime CEO to Retire Next YearJeff Gennette will step down in February 2024, passing the torch to the CEO of another notable retailer.
AuctionsMar 31, 2023
Piece of the Week: The Extraterrestrial Lunar NecklaceArtisan Martin Roberts fashioned lunar meteorites into 48 beads to create this out-of-this-world necklace.
Brought to you by
Full Disclosure at Your FingertipsDistinguishing natural diamonds from laboratory-grown stones – now more available than ever – has been difficult for jewelers. Until now.
MajorsMar 31, 2023
JBT Re-Elects Richard Katz as Board ChairmanAs for new members, the organization welcomed Jewelers of America’s Annie Doresca and Parag Jain of Parag Diamonds.
Weekly QuizMar 31, 2023
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge with this short test.
WatchesMar 30, 2023
At Watches & Wonders, a $20M Watch Makes Its DebutJacob & Co.’s new “Billionaire” timepiece features more than 200 carats of yellow diamonds.
AuctionsMar 30, 2023
See the Jewelry Collection Expected to Top Elizabeth Taylor’s at AuctionHeidi Horten, wife of department store magnate Helmut Horten, collected jewelry from Bulgari, Cartier, Harry Winston and Van Cleef & Arpels.
Brought to you by
Bringing Over 130 Years of Diamond Expertise to Modern GradingDe Beers Institute of Diamonds provides the very best in diamond verification, education and diamond services.
MajorsMar 30, 2023
Jewelers Mutual Marks a Major MilestoneThe jewelry industry insurer and solutions provider is celebrating 110 years in business this month.
SurveysMar 30, 2023
NRF Says Brick-and-Mortar Stores Remain ‘Primary Point of Purchase’The statement came as the National Retail Federation released its retail sales forecast for 2023.
AuctionsMar 29, 2023
10.57-Carat Purplish Pink Diamond Expected to Sell for $35M+Sotheby’s will auction the diamond, which it says is “arguably the most significant pink diamond to ever appear at auction,” in June.
MajorsMar 29, 2023
Blue Nile to Close Fulfillment Center, Lay Off WorkersThe retailer, recently acquired by Signet Jewelers, will lay off 119 employees in July.
WatchesMar 29, 2023
See All the New Patek Philippe Watches for 2023The Swiss watchmaker introduced 17 new models at Watches & Wonders Geneva.
MajorsMar 29, 2023
Mark Henry Jewelry Offering Complimentary ‘Masterclass’ on Sales from Peter SmithAs part of the promotion, Smith will share his sales expertise during a 90-minute training session.
EditorsMar 28, 2023
I’m Enchanted With Parmigiani Fleurier’s Perfect Travel WatchAt Watches & Wonders, the Swiss brand unveiled a follow-up to last year’s Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante.
CollectionsMar 28, 2023
Helzberg’s New Lab-Grown Diamond Collection Earns SCS CertificationThe “rêve” collection’s engagement rings and wedding bands are geared toward “sustainability minded customers.”
EditorsMar 28, 2023
This New Rolex Day-Date Tells Time … and AffirmationsA new word appears on the dial each day of the week.
IndependentsMar 28, 2023
D.C. Jeweler That Honored 50-Year-Old Gift Certificate Closes Bensons Jewelers closed for good Feb. 24, impacted in part by the decline in foot traffic downtown since the onset of the pandemic.
MajorsMar 28, 2023
Swarovski Names New GM of North AmericaKolja Kiofsky has been with the crystal and jewelry company since 2010.
AuctionsMar 27, 2023
Jewels to Shine in Upcoming ‘Golden Age’ of Hollywood AuctionThe Kruse GWS Auctions sale will include the replica “Taj Mahal” necklace Elizabeth Taylor made with Avon as well as a costume piece Marilyn Monroe wore.
MajorsMar 27, 2023
Pandora Promotes GM to Chief of Retail OperationsMassimo Basei is moving up, while Chief Commercial Officer Martino Pessina is stepping down.
Events & AwardsMar 27, 2023
Registration Is Open for the HardRock SummitAGTA GemFair and the Denver Gem & Mineral Show also will have a presence on the show floor.
AuctionsMar 24, 2023
Piece of the Week: The $5.8M Patek Philippe ‘Sky Moon Tourbillon’Sold by Christie’s Hong Kong, this masterwork of complications now holds the record for most expensive watch ever auctioned online.
FinancialsMar 24, 2023
Movado Predicts Declining Sales Amid ‘Volatile’ Retail EnvironmentThe watch company expects first-quarter sales to fall as much as 15 percent due to inflation and tough comps.
Lab-GrownMar 24, 2023
Lightbox Promotes General Manager to COOAdam O’Grady, general manager of the Lightbox Lab, has taken on the new role and will report directly to Lightbox CEO Antoine Borde.
WatchesMar 23, 2023
Which Brands Do Watch Enthusiasts Love Most? Chrono24 Takes a LookThe watch marketplace gathered data from 1.3 million collectors, highlighting the most popular timepieces and exploring value appreciation.
SourcingMar 23, 2023
Burgundy Diamond Backing Out of Ellendale Mine Deal Burgundy has opted not to exercise its option to buy the mining claims Gibb River Diamonds currently owns.
