Policies & IssuesAug 06, 2025
Tariff on India to Rise to 50%, Trump Says An additional 25 percent tariff has been added to the previously announced 25 percent.
GradingAug 11, 2013
NY lab reports finding more undisclosed synthetics
The Analytical Gemology & Jewelry Laboratory (AG&J), the same lab that reported the discovery of a parcel of 243 undisclosed lab-grown yellow melee diamonds, is warning the industry that it recently found synthetic brown melee mixed in a batch submitted as natural.
New York--The Analytical Gemology & Jewelry Laboratory (AG&J), the same lab that reported the discovery of a parcel of 243 undisclosed lab-grown yellow melee diamonds, is warning the industry that it recently found synthetic brown melee mixed in a batch submitted as natural.
The New York-based laboratory said Friday that the stones were grown using the chemical vapor deposition process (CVD) but were sold as natural brown type IIa diamonds.
The lab said at the end of July, it graded a batch of 18 diamonds, 17 rounds and one marquise cut, totaling 16 carats and ranging in size from 0.14-0.635 mm, with color ranging from F to gray and clarity of VVS to SI. The diamonds purportedly were mined, HPHT-treated diamonds.
Using its proprietary testing system, which can test melee, AG&J found that 13 of the 18 stones, or 72 percent, were actually CVD-grown diamonds.
An American gem dealer who specializes in HPHT-treated diamonds submitted the stones after purchasing what he believed were mined diamonds from a trade source with whom he had a long-standing relationship, the lab said.
The dealer bought the stones in question on the open market in Mumbai as type IIa brown diamonds. The dealer used a portable FTIR instrument to test the stones to ensure they were type IIa or very low nitrogen stones that could be HPHT treated.
The client became suspicious when some of the diamonds turned gray during the HPHT treatment and none of the stones achieved a color grade higher than I.
AG&J said testing revealed the CVD diamonds were produced using different parameters and reactors, which means they came from different factories.
“It was not surprising that the client could not detect the CVD diamonds using FTIR spectroscopy, as this requires more sophisticated methods that also have to keep up with the changes in the production of CVD- and HPHT-grown stones as well as treatments,” said AG&J CEO Dusan Simic.
He added that the discovery of these stones shows that the production of CVD-grown diamonds has become so cheap that they are beginning to penetrate the low end of the market.
The failure of companies to disclose the submission of lab-grown diamonds has increased in tandem with the stones’ presence in the industry, which comes as no surprise to the leaders of the world’s largest gem-grading laboratories.
As Jerry Ehrenwald, president and CEO of IGI North
and South America, put it in a 2012 interview with National Jeweler, “Since the moment synthetic diamonds were commercially available the ability to either consciously or not consciously defraud someone was able to happen. It was just a matter of time.”
The biggest non-disclosure scandal took place in the spring of 2012, when the International Gemological Institute in Antwerp reported finding hundreds of undisclosed synthetics.
Though Gemesis was the company linked to these stones, no one was ever punished in the scandal.
Simic said Friday that based on his lab’s research and database, along with reports from other researchers, he is “99 percent sure” the 13 undisclosed synthetics just discovered were not grown by Gemesis.
In June 2012, the Gemological Institute of America reported that 10 undisclosed synthetic diamonds surfaced at its Hong Kong lab. The AG&J found the 200-plus undisclosed yellow melee diamonds in January.
The biggest non-disclosure scandal took place in the spring of 2012, when the International Gemological Institute in Antwerp reported finding hundreds of undisclosed synthetics.
Though Gemesis was the company linked to these stones, no one was ever punished in the scandal.
Simic said Friday that based on his lab’s research and database, along with reports from other researchers, he is “99 percent sure” the 13 undisclosed synthetics just discovered were not grown by Gemesis.
In June 2012, the Gemological Institute of America reported that 10 undisclosed synthetic diamonds surfaced at its Hong Kong lab. The AG&J found the 200-plus undisclosed yellow melee diamonds in January.
More on Grading
The Latest
MajorsAug 06, 2025
Claire’s Files for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy AgainThe jewelry and accessories retailer said its stores will remain open during the proceedings.
IndependentsAug 06, 2025
Smith & Son Jewelers to Close 107-Year-Old Location Its Springfield, Massachusetts, store is set to close as owner Andrew Smith heads into retirement.
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine JewelryAs a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.
CollectionsAug 06, 2025
Zahn-Z Swims With Whales in ‘Beluga’ CollectionDesigner Hiba Husayni looked to the whale’s melon shaped-head, blowhole, and fluke for her new chunky gold offerings.
Weekly QuizJul 31, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
TrendsAug 06, 2025
Paola De Luca to Release Trendbook 2027+She will present the 23rd edition of the trend forecasting book at Vicenzaoro on Sept. 7.
CrimeAug 05, 2025
Report: Suspect Arrested in 1992 Murder of Miami JewelerOmar Roy, 72, was arrested in connection with the murder of jeweler Dionisio Carlos Valladares.
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench JewelersThe Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.
CollectionsAug 05, 2025
Mignon Faget Commemorates 20th Anniversary of Hurricane KatrinaThe New Orleans-based brand’s “Beyond Katrina” jewels honor the communities affected by the storm.
ColumnistsAug 05, 2025
The PR Adviser: Affiliate Marketing Is the Cost of CoverageLilian Raji explains why joining an affiliate network is essential for brands seeking placements in U.S. consumer publications.
Events & AwardsAug 05, 2025
JA Announces Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship WinnersThe organization has awarded a total of $42,000 through its scholarship programs this year.
Events & AwardsAug 04, 2025
Gem Awards, David Yurman Introduce $50K Grant for Emerging DesignersThe winner of the inaugural David Yurman Gem Awards Grant will be announced live at the 2026 Gem Awards gala.
TrendsAug 04, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: August’s Bright BaublesAs summer winds down, celebrate the sunny disposition of the month’s birthstones: peridot and spinel.
CrimeAug 04, 2025
‘The Watch King’ Assaulted, Robbed in QueensMoshe Haimoff, a social media personality and 47th Street retailer, was robbed of $559,000 worth of jewelry by men in construction outfits.
MajorsAug 04, 2025
Borsheims Welcomes New Assistant Facilities ManagerXavier Dibbrell brings more than a decade of experience to the role.
MajorsAug 01, 2025
Helzberg President Julie Yoakum Moves Over to Signet JewelersThe addition of Yoakum, who will lead Kay and Peoples, was one of three executive appointments Signet announced Thursday.
MajorsAug 01, 2025
Jewelers Mutual Names Mike Alexander as President The insurance company’s previous president and CEO, Scott Murphy, has split his role and will continue as CEO.
SourcingAug 01, 2025
Gemfields’ Auction Revenue Drops 50% in H1The nearly six-month pause of operations at its Kagem emerald mine earlier this year impacted the miner’s first-half results.
CollectionsAug 01, 2025
Piece of the Week: Hernsdorf’s ‘Tears of Aphrodite’ NecklaceThe necklace uses spinel drops to immortalize the moment Aphrodite’s tears mixed with her lover Adonis’ blood after he was fatally wounded.
SourcingJul 31, 2025
De Beers Records $189M First-Half Loss The diamond miner and marketer warned last week that it expected to be in the red after significantly cutting prices in Q2.
Events & AwardsJul 31, 2025
These Are the 2025 CASE Award WinnersJewelers of America’s 35th annual design contest recognized creativity, artistry, style, and excellence.
IndependentsJul 31, 2025
Matthew Tratner Takes Over as CBG President Tratner succeeds Andie Weinman, who will begin stepping back from the buying group’s day-to-day operations.
Policies & IssuesJul 30, 2025
Tariff on India Will Be 25%, Trump Says The president made the announcement via Truth Social Wednesday, adding that India also will face a penalty for its dealings with Russia.
FinancialsJul 30, 2025
Kering's Jewelry Brands Resilient As H1 Sales Slide 16%The luxury titan’s star brand Gucci continued to struggle amid a "tough" environment.
WatchesJul 30, 2025
Peek Inside Zadok Jewelers’ New Rolex Showroom in AustinIts opening marks the completion of the retailer’s new 11,000-square-foot store in the Texas capital.
SurveysJul 30, 2025
Consumer Confidence Ticks Up in JulyRespondents shared concerns about tariffs and commentary on the “Big Beautiful Bill.”
SourcingJul 30, 2025
Rob Bates to Release Latest Book in His ‘Diamond District Mystery’ Series“Making a Killing in Diamonds” tells the story of Mimi Rosen, the disappearance of a scientist, and the murder of lab-grown diamond CEO.
