Policies & IssuesAug 06, 2025
Tariff on India to Rise to 50%, Trump Says An additional 25 percent tariff has been added to the previously announced 25 percent.
GradingSep 08, 2013
AGL calls attention to ‘composite’ change
The American Gemological Laboratories (AGL) recently pointed out a “pivotal” change in disclosure nomenclature by CIBJO: the use of the word “composite” now can be used to describe lead-glass treated rubies, a change the AGL said many overlooked following CIBJO’s meeting in May.
This photo provided by American Gemological Laboratories shows a composite ruby that has been damaged during jewelry repair, which happens due to the high content of lead-glass in these stones.
New York--The American Gemological Laboratories (AGL) recently pointed out a “pivotal” change in disclosure nomenclature by CIBJO: the use of the word “composite” now can be used to describe lead-glass treated rubies, a change the AGL said many overlooked following CIBJO’s meeting in May.
Following its 2013 conference in Tel Aviv, CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, issued a press release explaining that going forward, it would follow the Laboratory Manual Harmonization Committee (LMHC) disclosure guidelines for lead-glass treated rubies and recognize the use of the term to composite to describe the stones.
This is a change the AGL advocated for, but one that was largely overlooked in post-conference reports and not widely understood in the industry, the lab said.
“At the time of the press release, most publications focused primarily on the CIBJO decision to follow the LMHC in disclosing this product, without much mention of their pivotal change allowing for use of the term composite to also represent these stones,” the AGL said.
The previous definition of composite in the CIBJO Blue Book did not permit the word to be used as a description for lead-glass treated rubies.
“This was a significant ruling for the CIBJO colored stone committee to make, which required a revision of the by-laws of the definition for the term composite,” Smith said. “It was not unexpected that the CIBJO ruling would follow the terminology proposed by the LMHC. However, they also approved the use of the word composite for this product, which was pioneered by the AGL.”
Lead-glass treated rubies began entering the jewelry market in vast numbers in 2003.
The creation of these stones involves taking very low quality, industrial-grade ruby and infusing it with glass that has a high lead content. Some stones are more ruby than glass while other are more glass than ruby.
In either case, the AGL said the amount of glass in these stones is significant and they must be handled carefully because the glass can be damaged by a variety of standard practices used by bench jewelers and even household products such as cleaners.
The LMHC has a multi-tiered disclosure system in place for lead-glass treated material that is dependent on the level of treatment, but AGL collectively describes all of this material as composite.
Additional trade organizations that recognize the term composite for lead-glass treated rubies are the American Gem Trade Association,
International Colored Gemstone Association, Gemstone Industry and Laboratory Committee and the Jewelers Vigilance Committee.
More on Grading
The Latest
MajorsAug 06, 2025
Claire’s Files for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy AgainThe jewelry and accessories retailer said its stores will remain open during the proceedings.
IndependentsAug 06, 2025
Smith & Son Jewelers to Close 107-Year-Old Location Its Springfield, Massachusetts, store is set to close as owner Andrew Smith heads into retirement.
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine JewelryAs a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.
CollectionsAug 06, 2025
Zahn-Z Swims With Whales in ‘Beluga’ CollectionDesigner Hiba Husayni looked to the whale’s melon shaped-head, blowhole, and fluke for her new chunky gold offerings.
Weekly QuizJul 31, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
TrendsAug 06, 2025
Paola De Luca to Release Trendbook 2027+She will present the 23rd edition of the trend forecasting book at Vicenzaoro on Sept. 7.
CrimeAug 05, 2025
Report: Suspect Arrested in 1992 Murder of Miami JewelerOmar Roy, 72, was arrested in connection with the murder of jeweler Dionisio Carlos Valladares.
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench JewelersThe Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.
CollectionsAug 05, 2025
Mignon Faget Commemorates 20th Anniversary of Hurricane KatrinaThe New Orleans-based brand’s “Beyond Katrina” jewels honor the communities affected by the storm.
ColumnistsAug 05, 2025
The PR Adviser: Affiliate Marketing Is the Cost of CoverageLilian Raji explains why joining an affiliate network is essential for brands seeking placements in U.S. consumer publications.
Events & AwardsAug 05, 2025
JA Announces Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship WinnersThe organization has awarded a total of $42,000 through its scholarship programs this year.
Events & AwardsAug 04, 2025
Gem Awards, David Yurman Introduce $50K Grant for Emerging DesignersThe winner of the inaugural David Yurman Gem Awards Grant will be announced live at the 2026 Gem Awards gala.
TrendsAug 04, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: August’s Bright BaublesAs summer winds down, celebrate the sunny disposition of the month’s birthstones: peridot and spinel.
CrimeAug 04, 2025
‘The Watch King’ Assaulted, Robbed in QueensMoshe Haimoff, a social media personality and 47th Street retailer, was robbed of $559,000 worth of jewelry by men in construction outfits.
MajorsAug 04, 2025
Borsheims Welcomes New Assistant Facilities ManagerXavier Dibbrell brings more than a decade of experience to the role.
MajorsAug 01, 2025
Helzberg President Julie Yoakum Moves Over to Signet JewelersThe addition of Yoakum, who will lead Kay and Peoples, was one of three executive appointments Signet announced Thursday.
MajorsAug 01, 2025
Jewelers Mutual Names Mike Alexander as President The insurance company’s previous president and CEO, Scott Murphy, has split his role and will continue as CEO.
SourcingAug 01, 2025
Gemfields’ Auction Revenue Drops 50% in H1The nearly six-month pause of operations at its Kagem emerald mine earlier this year impacted the miner’s first-half results.
CollectionsAug 01, 2025
Piece of the Week: Hernsdorf’s ‘Tears of Aphrodite’ NecklaceThe necklace uses spinel drops to immortalize the moment Aphrodite’s tears mixed with her lover Adonis’ blood after he was fatally wounded.
SourcingJul 31, 2025
De Beers Records $189M First-Half Loss The diamond miner and marketer warned last week that it expected to be in the red after significantly cutting prices in Q2.
Events & AwardsJul 31, 2025
These Are the 2025 CASE Award WinnersJewelers of America’s 35th annual design contest recognized creativity, artistry, style, and excellence.
IndependentsJul 31, 2025
Matthew Tratner Takes Over as CBG President Tratner succeeds Andie Weinman, who will begin stepping back from the buying group’s day-to-day operations.
Policies & IssuesJul 30, 2025
Tariff on India Will Be 25%, Trump Says The president made the announcement via Truth Social Wednesday, adding that India also will face a penalty for its dealings with Russia.
FinancialsJul 30, 2025
Kering's Jewelry Brands Resilient As H1 Sales Slide 16%The luxury titan’s star brand Gucci continued to struggle amid a "tough" environment.
WatchesJul 30, 2025
Peek Inside Zadok Jewelers’ New Rolex Showroom in AustinIts opening marks the completion of the retailer’s new 11,000-square-foot store in the Texas capital.
SurveysJul 30, 2025
Consumer Confidence Ticks Up in JulyRespondents shared concerns about tariffs and commentary on the “Big Beautiful Bill.”
SourcingJul 30, 2025
Rob Bates to Release Latest Book in His ‘Diamond District Mystery’ Series“Making a Killing in Diamonds” tells the story of Mimi Rosen, the disappearance of a scientist, and the murder of lab-grown diamond CEO.
