“Shell Auranova” is the next generation of the brand’s bridal line, featuring half-bezel engagement rings with bold and fluid designs.
AGL calls attention to ‘composite’ change
The American Gemological Laboratories (AGL) recently pointed out a “pivotal” change in disclosure nomenclature by CIBJO: the use of the word “composite” now can be used to describe lead-glass treated rubies, a change the AGL said many overlooked following CIBJO’s meeting in May.

New York--The American Gemological Laboratories (AGL) recently pointed out a “pivotal” change in disclosure nomenclature by CIBJO: the use of the word “composite” now can be used to describe lead-glass treated rubies, a change the AGL said many overlooked following CIBJO’s meeting in May.
Following its 2013 conference in Tel Aviv, CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, issued a press release explaining that going forward, it would follow the Laboratory Manual Harmonization Committee (LMHC) disclosure guidelines for lead-glass treated rubies and recognize the use of the term to composite to describe the stones.
This is a change the AGL advocated for, but one that was largely overlooked in post-conference reports and not widely understood in the industry, the lab said.
“At the time of the press release, most publications focused primarily on the CIBJO decision to follow the LMHC in disclosing this product, without much mention of their pivotal change allowing for use of the term composite to also represent these stones,” the AGL said.
The previous definition of composite in the CIBJO Blue Book did not permit the word to be used as a description for lead-glass treated rubies.
“This was a significant ruling for the CIBJO colored stone committee to make, which required a revision of the by-laws of the definition for the term composite,” Smith said. “It was not unexpected that the CIBJO ruling would follow the terminology proposed by the LMHC. However, they also approved the use of the word composite for this product, which was pioneered by the AGL.”
Lead-glass treated rubies began entering the jewelry market in vast numbers in 2003.
The creation of these stones involves taking very low quality, industrial-grade ruby and infusing it with glass that has a high lead content. Some stones are more ruby than glass while other are more glass than ruby.
In either case, the AGL said the amount of glass in these stones is significant and they must be handled carefully because the glass can be damaged by a variety of standard practices used by bench jewelers and even household products such as cleaners.
The LMHC has a multi-tiered disclosure system in place for lead-glass treated material that is dependent on the level of treatment, but AGL collectively describes all of this material as composite.
Additional trade organizations that recognize the term composite for lead-glass treated rubies are the American Gem Trade Association,
The Latest

Boucheron and Pomellato performed well in an otherwise bleak quarter for Kering amid struggles at Gucci.

Designer Deborah Meyers created her birds from oxidized sterling silver, rose-cut diamond eyes, and Akoya Keshi pearl feathers.

Six new retail businesses were selected for the 2025 program, which began in January.

The company said it expects sightholders to remain “cautious” with their purchasing due to all the unknowns around the U.S. tariffs.


Sponsored by the Gemological Institute of America

Simon Wolf shares why the time was right to open a new office here, what he looks for in a retail partner, and why he loves U.S. consumers.

The risk of laboratory-grown diamonds being falsely presented as natural diamonds presents a very significant danger to consumer trust.

A third-generation jeweler, Ginsberg worked at his family’s store, Ginsberg Jewelers, from 1948 until his retirement in 2019.

The company failed to file its quarterly reports in a timely manner.

The organization also announced its board of directors.

Charms may be tiny but with their small size comes endless layering possibilities, from bracelets to necklaces and earrings.

Located in Valenza, the now 355,000-square-foot facility includes a new jewelry school that’s open to the public, Scuola Bulgari.

Paola Sasplugas, co-founder of the Barcelona-based jewelry brand, received the Fine Jewelry Award.

A platinum Zenith-powered Daytona commissioned in the late ‘90s will headline Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in Geneva next month.

The basketball stars wear men’s jewelry from the “Curb Chain” collection.

The Signet Jewelers-owned retailer wants to encourage younger shoppers to wear fine jewelry every day, not just on special occasions.

The 21 pieces, all from a private collector, will be offered at its Magnificent Jewels auction next month.

Lilian Raji answers a question from a reader who is looking to grow her jewelry business but has a limited marketing budget.

The Indiana jeweler has acquired Scottsdale Fine Jewelers in Scottsdale, Arizona.

“Cartier: Design, Craft, and Legacy” opened earlier this month at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

Van Cott Jewelers in Vestal, New York, is hosting a going-out-of-business sale.

Industry veteran Samantha Larson has held leadership roles at Borsheims, McTeigue & McClelland, Stuller, and Long’s Jewelers.
The two organizations will hold the educational event together this fall in Mississippi.

The entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.

The Ukrainian brand’s new pendant is modeled after a traditional paska, a pastry often baked for Easter in Eastern European cultures.

The jeweler has announced a grand reopening for its recently remodeled location in Peoria, Illinois.