IndependentsMay 09, 2025
Lugano Diamonds CEO Resigns Amid Internal InvestigationMoti Ferder stepped down Wednesday and will not receive any severance pay, parent company Compass Diversified said.
EditorsDec 05, 2012
Is Zimbabwe poised for bigger role in the KP?
As a journalist with experience in both the consumer and trade press, it’s always interesting to me what gets reported, and what doesn’t make the cut, following the industry’s more widely followed events, such as the recently concluded Kimberley Process plenary in Washington, D.C.
This report from the Associated Press focused on the decision made regarding the monitoring of Zimbabwe’s Marange diamond fields, with the failure to adopt a wider definition of “conflict” a close second.The headline on the AP story read, in part, “Blood diamond watchdog eases restrictions on Zimbabwe gems.”
The restrictions referenced in the story were those that came about following the 2011 plenary in the Democratic Republic of the Congo. In agreeing then to allow for the resumption of exports from two mines in Marange, the KP dictated that before exports from additional mines could resume, they first must be visited by monitoring teams to ensure that security at the mines was sufficient to issue KP certificates in good faith.
Monitors from non-governmental organizations also were dispatched to the mines and to local communities, and all found that Zimbabwe had done what the KP had asked of it.
And so the monitoring requirement, initially put into place for one year, lapsed. There was no vote on the issue.
The decision regarding monitoring, as KP Chairwoman U.S. Ambassador Gillian Milovanovic so eloquently put it in a post-plenary interview Tuesday, “is not a commentary on the generality of the situation in Zimbabwe.”
In other words, as has been rehashed countless times, the scope of the KP is limited. The KP’s so-called easing of restrictions on Zimbabwe is not an endorsement of where the money from diamond sales is going or how journalists are being treated in the country as its presidential election nears. It is simply saying: Zimbabwe did what the KP asked it to do and so there weren’t any grounds for extending the one-year monitoring clause, period.
(It’s also worth noting that in a post-plenary release in which it said it was “encouraged” by the progress made at the meeting, Jewelers of America reiterated that U.S. sanctions still prohibit all citizens here from dealing with the Zimbabwean entities that own or control mines in Marange.)
Meanwhile, one item from the meeting that largely has been overlooked, amid all the excitement over the easing of restrictions and the failure of the process to agree on a new definition for “conflict,” is that Zimbabwe is a country that, seemingly, is keen on becoming more involved in the KP.
Zimbabwe won approval to join or participate in a total of five committees: the Committee on Rules and Procedures,
the Working Group of Diamonds Experts, the Working Group on Monitoring and the Participation Committee and was accepted as guest participant in the Committee on KPCS Review, normally comprised of only current and past chairs.
When I asked Milovanovic about this on Tuesday she acknowledged that there is concern around making sure Zimbabwe’s increased involvement is “constructive.” At this just-past plenary, though, she notes that the KP members generally were cooperative and that no one member, including Zimbabwe, did anything to stymie the process’ progress.
Next year, South Africa takes over as chair of the KP and the largest issue on the table will be changing expanding the definition of conflict to include more general diamond-related violence, a measure that would expand the scope of the 10-year-old process and is badly needed.
How it will play out -- and what role a potentially more active Zimbabwe might play -- is anybody’s guess.
When I asked Milovanovic about this on Tuesday she acknowledged that there is concern around making sure Zimbabwe’s increased involvement is “constructive.” At this just-past plenary, though, she notes that the KP members generally were cooperative and that no one member, including Zimbabwe, did anything to stymie the process’ progress.
Next year, South Africa takes over as chair of the KP and the largest issue on the table will be changing expanding the definition of conflict to include more general diamond-related violence, a measure that would expand the scope of the 10-year-old process and is badly needed.
How it will play out -- and what role a potentially more active Zimbabwe might play -- is anybody’s guess.
More on Editors
The Latest
CollectionsMay 09, 2025
Pieces of the Week: Marie Lichtenberg’s Collaborations for Mother’s DayLichtenberg partnered with luxury platform Mytheresa on two designs honoring the connection between mothers and daughters.
SourcingMay 09, 2025
Gemfields Resumes Emerald Mining in ZambiaThe miner announced plans to recommence open-pit mining at Kagem.
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the GlobeGain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.
CrimeMay 08, 2025
Former NYC Jewelry Store Employee Arrested in 2017 Choking Death of Boss Michel Desalles allegedly murdered Omid Gholian inside World of Gold N Diamond using zip ties and then fled the country.
Weekly QuizMay 08, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Supplier BulletinMay 08, 2025
Instappraise Introduces Game-Changing Trifold Appraisal FormatSponsored by Instappraise
FinancialsMay 08, 2025
Brilliant Earth Notes an Uptick in Engagement Ring Sales in Q1CEO Beth Gerstein discussed the company’s bridal bestsellers, the potential impact of tariffs, and the rising price of gold.
Brought to you by
Watch: The Winston Red: GIA Examines the Smithsonian’s Newest AdditionSupplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA
IndependentsMay 08, 2025
Margot McKinney Lands in the U.S. With New BoutiqueThe brand’s first independent location outside of Australia has opened in Beverly Hills, California.
IndependentsMay 08, 2025
Verragio Announces New Regional Sales ManagerCathy Marsh will lead the jewelry company’s efforts in the upper Midwest and western United States.
FinancialsMay 07, 2025
Pandora Posts Strong Q1, Plans for TariffsThe company has multiple strategies for dealing with tariffs, though its CEO said moving manufacturing to the U.S. is not one of them.
ColumnistsMay 07, 2025
The Smart Lab: Building a Seasonal Marketing Strategy for Mother’s Day and BeyondConnecting with your customers throughout the year is key to a successful holiday marketing push.
SourcingMay 07, 2025
Gemfields Says Emerald Sales Improved in Latest AuctionIts commercial-quality emerald sale held last month totaled more than $16 million, up from about $11 million in September 2024.
TechnologyMay 07, 2025
Punchmark’s Latest Podcast Features a Very Special Guest National Jeweler Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff joined Michael Burpoe to talk tariffs, consumer confidence, and the sky-high price of gold.
AuctionsMay 06, 2025
Harwell Godfrey Reimagines 10-Carat Blue Diamond for Met Gala-Ready BroochDesigner Lauren Harwell Godfrey made the piece as an homage to the 2025 gala’s theme, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.”
Events & AwardsMay 06, 2025
Here’s Who Made Jewelers of America’s New ‘20 Under 40’ ListExpanded this year to include suppliers, JA’s 2025 list honors 40 up-and-coming professionals in the jewelry industry.
IndependentsMay 06, 2025
Sissy's Log Cabin Opens New StoreLocated in Fort Smith, it’s the Mid-South jeweler’s first store in Northwest Arkansas.
IndependentsMay 06, 2025
Gunderson’s Jewelers to Be Featured on ‘World’s Greatest’ TV SeriesThe episode about the family-owned jeweler will premiere May 17.
IndependentsMay 05, 2025
Zadok Jewelers Opens Store in AustinThe Houston-based jeweler’s new 11,000-square-foot showroom will include a Rolex boutique.
AuctionsMay 05, 2025
Nancy Astor’s Cartier Tiara Heads to AuctionThe turquoise and diamond tiara hasn’t been on the market since it was purchased by Lord Astor in 1930.
SourcingMay 05, 2025
Crater of Diamonds Yields 4-Carat Brown Diamond“The Duke Diamond” is the largest diamond registered at the Arkansas park so far this year.
TrendsMay 02, 2025
Ring Concierge, Kraft Partner on Mother’s Day Macaroni Necklace The childhood craft of making dried pasta necklaces for Mother’s Day is all grown up as the 14-karat gold “Forever Macaroni” necklace.
CollectionsMay 02, 2025
Piece of the Week: Angely Martinez’s Emerald Promise RingSet with May’s birthstone and featuring an earthworm, this ring is a perfect celebration of spring.
MajorsMay 02, 2025
Stuller’s New Bridal Catalog Is Here“Bridal 2025–2026” includes popular styles and a dedicated section for quick pricing references of lab-grown diamond bridal jewelry.
SourcingMay 01, 2025
Tariffs & Colored Gemstones: Relying on Stock, Considering the Ripple EffectThough currently paused, high tariffs threaten many countries where gemstones are mined. Dealers are taking measures now to prepare.
MajorsMay 01, 2025
Peek Inside David Yurman’s New Miami Flagship StoreLocated in Miami’s Design District, the 4,000-square-foot store is an homage to David and Sybil Yurman’s artistic roots.
TrendsMay 01, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: 20 Pieces of Emerald Jewelry for MayMay babies are lucky indeed, born in a month awash with fresh colors and celebrated with one of the most coveted colored gemstones.
