Policies & Issues

5 Points on the Proposed Changes to the FTC Guides

Policies & IssuesFeb 06, 2016

5 Points on the Proposed Changes to the FTC Guides

The Federal Trade Commission has issued proposed revisions to its Guides for the Jewelry Industry. Here are a few key things to know about them.

New York--The Federal Trade Commission has issued proposed revisions to the FTC Guides for the jewelry industry, which dictate the terms that can, and cannot, be used to market jewelry.

A few key revisions are outlined below.


This American Gemological Laboratories-provided file photo shows a lead glass-filled ruby that has been damaged during jewelry repair. At this point, these changes are merely proposed--not final--and represent the latest development in an ongoing dialogue between the industry and the FTC, which have been working on overhauling the guides since 2012.

Members of the public who want to make comments about the latest changes have until April 4 to do so. The current draft can be found on FTC.gov, and comments can be registered here.

Comments also can be mailed to:  Federal Trade Commission, Office of the Secretary, 600 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Suite CC-5610 (Annex O), Washington, D.C. 20580.

In the meantime, Jewelers Vigilance Committee CEO Cecilia Gardner said the JVC and other industry organizations will work on drafting responses to the latest revisions. In addition, the JVC plans to respond directly to a number of requests made by the FTC, including for more metallurgic testing on surface applications and for consumer perception data on surface-coated materials.

1. The use of the term “gold” in connection with alloys
Gardner said current FTC rules do not allow the use of the word gold to refer to any substance that’s less than 10 karats; Tiffany & Co., for example, cannot use the term gold in connection with its alloy Rubedo and instead refers it to simply as a metal.

Under the FTC’s proposed changes, the industry would be permitted to use the term gold to refer to alloys but must disclose the karatage of the gold and list the other metals present in the alloy as well.

“That’s a big change,” Gardner said.

2. The disclosure of rhodium plating
In its revisions, the FTC is proposing another major change to metals terminology--the disclosure of rhodium plating, which currently is not required.

3. A clarification on lead glass-filled rubies
Gardner said the proposed revisions clarify that the term “lead glass-filled ruby” can be used to refer only to material that contains some measure of red corundum. If the material is non-red corundum and colored glass is added to make it appear red (i.e., to make it look like a ruby), then it

must be described as lead glass-filled corundum.

In addition, the FTC stressed that the seller must disclose any and all information about the special care the material requires. 

4. The incorporation of the term “cultured” in reference to lab-grown diamonds
Gardner said when the industry submitted its latest comments on the guides to the FTC back in 2012, it asked the FTC to prohibit the use of the word cultured in connection with lab-grown diamonds. The industry contended that the term should apply only to organic processes, such as the one used for pearls. 

The FTC, however, has now proposed incorporating the word cultured into the guides but only if it is immediately accompanied by the terms lab-grown or lab-created.

5. The use of varietal names
The FTC’s proposed revisions dictate that terms such as yellow emerald and green amethyst are deceptive and misleading.

The gemstones must be described exactly as they are. In the two examples given above, it would be golden or yellow beryl and prasiolite.

Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Golconda Blue
AuctionsApr 29, 2025
‘Golconda Blue’ Diamond Pulled From Auction

The 23-carat fancy vivid blue diamond, set to headline Christie’s May jewelry auction, was expected to sell for as much as $50 million.

G.B. Heron Jewelers sign
IndependentsApr 29, 2025
Maryland Jeweler to Close After 36 Years

G.B. Heron Jewelers in Salisbury, Maryland, is set to close as its owner, Jeff Cassels, retires.

National Jeweler Columnist Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsApr 29, 2025
Google Ads vs. Social Media Ads: Which Are More Effective?

Emmanuel Raheb outlines the differences between the two platforms and posits that the most successful jewelers use both.

Supplier Spotlight -Recorded-Webinar.png
Brought to you by
Watch: The Winston Red: GIA Examines the Smithsonian’s Newest Addition

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA

Gemfields rough rubies
SourcingApr 29, 2025
Gemfields Mini Ruby Auction Achieves $7M

The miner said its April sale featured a mix of commercial-quality primary rubies and secondary rubies of varying quality.

Weekly QuizApr 24, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Counterfeit Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra jewelry
CrimeApr 28, 2025
Customs Seizes Nearly 2,000 Pieces of Counterfeit Van Cleef & Arpels Jewelry

U.S. customs agents in El Paso, Texas, intercepted the package, which would have been worth $9 million if the jewelry was genuine.

Suzanne Kalan Tech Ring Jacket Collection
TrendsApr 28, 2025
Suzanne Kalan Launches Tech Ring Jacket Collection

Health monitors become statement pieces when paired with the brand’s new collection of stackable diamond-studded bands.

ejap cohort 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
Emerging Jewelers Accelerator Program Announces Second Cohort of Aspiring Jewelry Entrepreneurs

Six new retail businesses were selected for the 2025 program, which began in January.

JCK Industry Fund
Events & AwardsApr 28, 2025
JCK Industry Fund Announces 2025 Grant Recipients

Ten organizations were selected this year.

Kim Carpenter and Sam Gevisenheit
IndependentsApr 28, 2025
John Atencio Appoints 2 to Wholesale Team

Kim Carpenter and Sam Gevisenheit have joined the brand.

Sylvie Jewelry Auranova Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsApr 25, 2025
Sylvie Looks to Water in New Sculptural Bridal Collection

“Shell Auranova” is the next generation of the brand’s bridal line, featuring half-bezel engagement rings with bold and fluid designs.

Pomellato Nudo toi et moi ring
FinancialsApr 25, 2025
Kering’s Jewelry Brands Persevere as Q1 Sales Sink 14%

Boucheron and Pomellato performed well in an otherwise bleak quarter for Kering amid struggles at Gucci.

Deborah Meyers Experience The Birds Earrings
EditorsApr 25, 2025
Piece of the Week: Deborah Meyers Experience’s ‘The Birds’ Earrings

Designer Deborah Meyers created her birds from oxidized sterling silver, rose-cut diamond eyes, and Akoya Keshi pearl feathers.

Melee diamonds from De Beers
SourcingApr 25, 2025
De Beers Sales, Production Fall in Q1 Amid Uncertainty

The company said it expects sightholders to remain “cautious” with their purchasing due to all the unknowns around the U.S. tariffs.

LIM-401 2024 National Jeweler Supplier Bulletin- iD100 Web and Eblast FINAL (1).jpg
Supplier BulletinApr 24, 2025
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

Sponsored by the Gemological Institute of America

Wolf CEO Simon Wolf
EditorsApr 24, 2025
Q&A: Wolf’s CEO Talks U.S. Expansion

Simon Wolf shares why the time was right to open a new office here, what he looks for in a retail partner, and why he loves U.S. consumers.

Iowa jeweler Herman Ginsberg
IndependentsApr 24, 2025
Longtime Iowa Jeweler Herman Ginsberg Dies at 99

A third-generation jeweler, Ginsberg worked at his family’s store, Ginsberg Jewelers, from 1948 until his retirement in 2019.

Charles & Colvard moissanite ring
FinancialsApr 24, 2025
Charles & Colvard Delisted From Nasdaq Due to Noncompliance

The company failed to file its quarterly reports in a timely manner.

Young Diamantaires
SourcingApr 24, 2025
Young Diamantaires Transition to Nonprofit

The organization also announced its board of directors.

Mined + Found "Hope" Matchbox Locket
TrendsApr 24, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: So Charming

Charms may be tiny but with their small size comes endless layering possibilities, from bracelets to necklaces and earrings.

Bulgari’s expanded factory in Valenza, Italy
MajorsApr 23, 2025
Bulgari Doubles Size of Jewelry Factory in Italy

Located in Valenza, the now 355,000-square-foot facility includes a new jewelry school that’s open to the public, Scuola Bulgari.

Jason McNary accepting FGI Fine Jewelry Rising Star award for Paola Sasplugas
Events & AwardsApr 23, 2025
PDPaola Creative Director Wins FGI’s ‘Rising Star’ Award

Paola Sasplugas, co-founder of the Barcelona-based jewelry brand, received the Fine Jewelry Award.

1999 Cosmograph Daytona, Ref.16516
AuctionsApr 23, 2025
Rare Custom Rolex Daytona Heads to Auction

A platinum Zenith-powered Daytona commissioned in the late ‘90s will headline Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in Geneva next month.

Carmelo Anthony and Jaylen Brown David Yurman campaign
MajorsApr 23, 2025
David Yurman’s New Campaign Stars Carmelo Anthony, Jaylen Brown

The basketball stars wear men’s jewelry from the “Curb Chain” collection.

Woman wearing Zales jewelry
MajorsApr 22, 2025
Zales’ Rebrand Takes Playful Approach to Fine Jewelry

The Signet Jewelers-owned retailer wants to encourage younger shoppers to wear fine jewelry every day, not just on special occasions.

JAR Apricot Blossom bracelet
AuctionsApr 22, 2025
Christie’s to Auction JAR Jewelry Collection

The 21 pieces, all from a private collector, will be offered at its Magnificent Jewels auction next month.

National Jeweler columnist Lilian Raji
ColumnistsApr 22, 2025
The PR Adviser: Building Buzz Through Word of Mouth

Lilian Raji answers a question from a reader who is looking to grow her jewelry business but has a limited marketing budget.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy