GIA Updates Pearl Classification System
The lab has adjusted the scale it uses for nacre grading.

The lab will evaluate the nacre of a pearl, strand, or other item based on the degree of eye-visible movement—or nacre variation—found on either the surface or sub-surface layers of nacre, in addition to the post-harvest condition, including wear, damage, modifications and treatments, and trade standards for thickness.
The nacre will be classified as “excellent,” “very good,” “good,” “fair,” or “poor,” and the new scale will be listed on all GIA pearl reports.
Previously, GIA classified nacre as “acceptable” or “unacceptable.”
"Acceptable” denoted expected commercial nacre quality in terms of thickness, layering, and condition, the lab said, while “unacceptable” indicated poor quality nacre that may impact durability, such as thinness, chalkiness, or damage.
In developing the new scale, GIA examined an assortment of pearl samples with varied surface and sub-surface features that can indicate differences in nacre layering and continuity during a pearl’s growth.
“Nacre formation plays a critical role during a pearl’s growth, as its structure influences other value factors such as size, shape, luster, and surface quality. Nacre thickness and continuity also affect the pearl’s durability,” said Tom Moses, executive vice president and chief laboratory and research officer at GIA.
“This update on the nacre quality scale provides improvement to the existing nacre quality description for the GIA 7 Pearl Value Factors [size, shape, color, nacre, luster, surface, and matching] classification system that better serves our clients.”
Due to the update, the lab said most pearls submitted will now be classified as having “good,” rather than “acceptable,” nacre.
The new scale was prompted by observations and requests from members of the global pearl trade, GIA said.
To learn more about GIA’s pearl reports and services, visit the lab’s website.
The Latest

Two Saks Fifth Avenue locations, one in Florida and one in California, and one Neiman Marcus store are off the chopping block.

West, who started in the art department at the Leading Jewelers Guild in 1979, is remembered for his patience, kindness, and dedication.

In the “Tesoro” version of the ring, our Piece of the Week, each side of the gold hexagonal nugget has a unique colored gemstone design.

You deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.

Cohen discusses the evolution of Citizen’s light-powered technology, the brand’s cross-generational appeal, and tariffs.


“Essentially Human: On Sales and Salespeople" reveals the underlying human traits and behaviors of the most successful sales professionals.

The collection features symbols of love, luck, and light, based on the story of Queen Cassandane and Cyrus the Great of Persia.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

It’s the third scholarship to be launched as part of the partnership to help appraisers advance their professional credentials.

The deadline for entries in the jewelry design competition has been extended to April 3.

After 28 years with JCK, the veteran industry journalist is launching his own publication on Substack called The Jewelry Wire.

The “Flower Puff” collection looks to beaded flower friendship bracelets from childhood, turning the silhouette into nostalgic fine jewelry.

Set for April 2, the webinar will discuss how the jewelry industry can address the workforce gap.

Bayer, founder of Lisa Bayer Designs, is remembered as “a bright light in every room.”

The highest-grossing lot was a Tiffany & Co. ring set with a flawless, emerald-cut diamond of 10 carats.

The next three editions of AGTA GemFair Tucson will feature a five-day show that includes Sunday.

Former Sotheby’s executive Tom Heap has taken on the London-based role.

The group of women allegedly robbed two Catbird stores and one Gorjana location on the afternoon of March 9.

Movado CEO Efraim Grinberg noted continued strength in the fashion watch and accessible luxury segments in the U.S.

After celebrating 25 years in 2025, the campaign marks a new chapter for the jewelry brand with the message that “Identity Creates Value.”

Couture and Time to Watches announced the watch brands, from big names to independents, attendees will see at the show.

Plus, why Saks Global’s bankruptcy may have given Bloomingdale’s an edge.

The flawless, Type IIa stone is estimated to achieve up to $2.8 million at the auction house’s high jewelry sale in April.

Costume designer Kate Hawley wore three archival Tiffany & Co. brooches, our Pieces of the Week, while accepting her first Oscar.

The jewelry retailer announced changes to its store network and brand portfolio during its fourth-quarter earnings call.

From a weaker labor market to inflation, NRF Chief Economist Mark Mathews gave insight on what retailers can expect this year.

The historic stone, which sold at Elmwood’s in London, is the largest white diamond to be offered on the U.K. market in more than a decade.






















