In this special op-ed, designer Jules Kim calls on big brands to collaborate with independent creators instead of copying their designs.
Former SSEF Director Henry A. Hänni Dies
A pioneering figure in gemology, he is remembered for his spirit of generosity, curiosity, and joy.
He died peacefully at his home in Basel, surrounded by his family on Jan. 9, his 80th birthday.
Hänni, known to many as Professor Hänni, spent more than four decades in the industry.
While working as a technical assistant at the Mineralogical Institute at the University of Basel, his fascination with minerals led him to become a student.
In 1980, he completed his Ph.D. thesis on beryl from the Swiss Alps.
He later joined the University of Basel as a professor of gemology in 1996, where SSEF said he inspired countless students and professionals worldwide through his teaching and mentorship, sharing his vast knowledge and infectious enthusiasm for the field.
Hänni, who had been on staff at SSEF since 1980, assumed the role of director in 1990.
SSEF said he made invaluable contributions to the institute's development and international reputation, as well as conducting groundbreaking research in pearl and colored stone analysis, treatment detection, and origin determination during his time there.
"Professor Hänni will be remembered not only for his extraordinary academic achievements but for his unique sense of curiosity," said Dr. Michael S. Krzemnicki, director of SSEF.
"His warm personality and distinctive sense of humor touched all who knew him, making him not just a respected colleague but a beloved friend to many in the international gemological community."
SSEF launched a scholarship in Hänni’s honor last year. It is awarded once a year with the next round of applications set to open in September.
He retired from the lab in 2009 but remained engaged in gemstone research and education.
Hänni spent many years as an author and reviewer for Gems & Gemology, said the publication’s editor-in-chief emerita Alice Keller in Hänni’s online obituary.
“I miss our gemological ‘discussions’—Henry loved a good argument—just as the gem and jewelry industry will miss his insights and intellect,” Keller posted to the page.
Hänni also contributed as both an author and editor to The Journal of Gemmology, the publication from The Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A), according to editor-in-chief Brendan Laurs.
Dozens of others also shared memories of Hänni in the online obituary, with many noting his cheerful nature, mentorship, and kindness, as well as his passion for pearls.
One gemologist, Zhou Wei, wrote, “As one of his younger colleagues, I was constantly inspired by his dedication and kindness. He didn’t just teach me about science; he showed me the beauty and wonder of gemology. He loved every facet of it and made sure we did too.”
Gaetano Cavalieri, longtime president of the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO), said Hänni played a key role developing and formulating the CIBJO Blue Book series, specifically the work done by the CIBJO Pearl Commission.
“Henry was a scientist who dedicated his life to researching, understanding, and documenting precious minerals and other gem materials, with the primary objective of growing our knowledge base and then teaching to others what he had learned,” Cavalieri said.
“He was a pure academic in the service of our industry, and a teacher, mentor, and role model to generation of gemologists who came after him. His legacy will live on in his students and writings, which will continue to serve us for many years to come.”
The Latest
Several jewelry designers are lending a helping hand to charities in Los Angeles amid the raging wildfires.
The peak selling days leading up to Christmas did not meet the jewelry retailer’s expectations.
The new year feels like a clean slate, inspiring reflection, hope, and the motivation to become better versions of ourselves.
Schneider brings over 20 years of luxury and fashion industry experience to his role as a key member of the brand’s global leadership team.
Gemfields said the Zambian government revoked the 2019 suspension of the tax with no warning.
With versions in 18-karat gold and platinum, the wearables company is blending health technology and fine jewelry.
A Diamond is Forever hosted a holiday celebration in honor of their new marketing campaign, ‘Forever Present.’
The executive brings more than two decades of industry experience to the role.
The New York City-based retailer is bringing its curation of jewels to a pop-up shop at Love Binetti in Palm Beach, Florida.
Created by JA and DCA, the fund is collecting money for jewelry businesses damaged by the wildfires in Los Angeles County.
Adrien Brody received his first Golden Globe while wearing the “Mozi” brooch, which depicts a spill of traditional Chinese calligraphy ink.
The pair will work together to support independent retailers in India with marketing assets, training materials, and other tools.
Officers in Champlain, New York valued the jewels, if genuine, at nearly $30,000.
The “Moonlight Rhapsody” collection is overflowing with gemstones, from raw opal to morganite and spessartite.
The seminar series covers topics from market trends and colored stone terminology to working with museums and growing an Instagram profile.
The artist collaborated with industry creatives on the project, which features five fictional stories and five corresponding paintings.
Nine jewelers donated jewels for a raffle to support the Children’s Hospital Foundation at Virginia Commonwealth University.
Miss Piggy shared her thoughts on being fabulous, the importance of accessories, and how to be your own cheerleader.
“Promise by Effy” includes fashion jewelry and engagement rings.
The Texas-based jeweler is closing all three locations.
Zendaya’s ring, featuring an east-west set elongated cushion-cut diamond, is said to be from British designer Jessica McCormack.
Micro-influencers, customer reviews, and shoppable videos are going to be key to getting customers’ attention, Emmanuel Raheb writes.
Garnet is comprised of a group of minerals, giving those with a birthday in January options when it comes to their birthstone.
The annual award, created in memory of business coach William “Wag” Wagner, went to a retailer in Fairfax, Virginia.
Retailers and vendors can ask customers to make a donation by rounding up to the next dollar at checkout.
The wholesaler is partnering with Australian brand Cheal Opal on a new offering of calibrated stones.