Policies & Issues

Single Mine Origin Gold Now Being Distributed in the US

Policies & IssuesAug 02, 2024

Single Mine Origin Gold Now Being Distributed in the US

Providence, Rhode Island-based C&J Fine Jewelry Makers will offer the traceable gold to companies in the U.S. and Canada.

L’Atelier Nawbar earrings with single mine origin gold
A pair of earrings from L’Atelier Nawbar made with Single Mine Origin (SMO) gold
Providence, R.I.—Rhode Island manufacturer C&J Fine Jewelry Makers is now the exclusive distributor of Single Mine Origin (SMO) gold in the United States and Canada.

According to U.K.-based SMO, the gold from SMO member mines is the first transparent and traceable gold that has full chain of custody and is fully audited.   

The gold offered by C&J Fine Jewelry Makers will be traceable to the Ity mine in Côte d’Ivoire, which SMO said has the longest history of any gold mine in the African country.

To receive accreditation from SMO, mines like Ity undergo a multi-level evaluation process during which the company applies environmental, social, and governance (ESG) criteria from international standards—like the World Gold Council’s Responsible Gold Mining Principles, the Initiative for Responsible Mining Assurance’s standards or the International Council on Mining and Metals’ principles—combining objective factors and subjective judgment. 

SMO is also developing its own standard, the SMO ESG benchmark, designed as a tool for comparing SMO mines with other gold mines, regionally and globally, to ensure accountability. 

The Ity mine received the Ivorian Mining Excellence Award for its ESG initiatives in both 2021 and 2023.  

All jewelry made with SMO gold comes with a QR code that shows its journey from mine to market. 

The QR code also offers details on the gold’s origin and beneficial effects it has had as it made its way to the consumer. 

“At C&J Fine Jewelry Makers, we manufacture for the most iconic houses of fine jewelry around the world, and we have seen a growing sense of intention with our clients, and their customers, to know where and how their raw materials are sourced,” said Jeffrey D’Angelo, president of C&J Fine Jewelry Makers.  

“Single Mine Origin is a needed solution to a white space in the global supply chain of gold that is traceable, responsibly sourced, and independently audited. We are excited to partner with SMO to help drive positive change within the jewelry industry.” 

SMO was founded in 2017 by Dan and Charlie Betts, brothers from Birmingham, England, in response to how little of the world’s gold was fully traceable, due to how it is mined, refined, and sold. 

The pair is the ninth generation of the family in the gold smelting and refining business, dating back to 1760 when Alexander Betts founded what is now the Betts Group.  

In 2012, Dan left the family business to concentrate on Hummingbird Resources, a gold exploration business set up with his father, Stephen Betts.  

Five years later, Hummingbird Resources established SMO together with Betts Metals. 

In 2024, Hummingbird Resources fully divested, and SMO is now solely owned by the Betts Group. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

The U.S. ranks third in terms of global demand for gold jewelry, according to SMO, yet less than 4 percent of the world’s gold supply is traceable from mine to finished product, the company said.

C&J Fine Jewelry Makers Managing Director Anthony Maietta said the company has been working exclusively with recycled gold due to the demand for it. 

In late 2023, one customer, jewelry brand Roséate, asked if C&J would make its jewelry using SMO gold.  

That was Maietta’s introduction to the company. 

After research, he decided SMO was a perfect partner for C&J for a few reasons—it’s responsibly sourced with consistent supply, it’s affordably priced, and perhaps most importantly, it can be scaled. 

“Some of the responsible sources on the small-scale artisan mines, they’re doing amazing things [but] there’s also just not a lot of it to go around,” Maietta said. 

He estimates that, on a daily basis, of the gold used for jewelry, electronics, and investment, about 30 percent comes from recycled sources and about 70 percent comes from newly mined sources. 

Of that 70 percent, 10 percent comes from small-scale artisanal mines and 90 percent comes from large-scale mines. 

Maietta added, “SMO is seeking to work with the best actors for large-scale mines. They’re working with that 90 percent.” 

While customers of C&J have the choice of recycled or SMO gold from the Ity mine now, the plan is to get even more granular. 

SMO has the ability to identify certain areas of the ESG spectrum where its member mines are performing particularly well. 

This gives jewelers the choice of using gold from a mine whose operations resonate with its brand values. 

While the C&J only has gold from the Ity mine now, its customers can request to work with a mine that, for example, is going to reach net zero emissions by the end of the year, or a mine with high female employment rates, or a mine with the highest water recycling rate of any gold mine in the world. 
 
The topic of sustainability comes up in conversations across all sectors of the industry, including the ethical sourcing of gemstones.

SMO noted that several designers it spoke with have begun seeking alternatives to gold because of the effort they put into sourcing their gemstones in a responsible manner; they want to set it in a metal that’s sourced just as responsibly.   

The same concept applies to the other hardware used to make jewelry.

To start, C&J Fine Jewelry Makers will only offer SMO gold in the form of 24-karat fine gold casting grain, so if, for example, a customer in the U.S. orders a necklace in SMO gold, the pendant would be but the chain and spring ring or lobster claw wouldn’t be.

Maietta said the next step is to onboard a chain manufacturer in the U.S. that is using SMO gold.

This lobbying of other manufacturers, and spreading awareness, is the kind of industry pressure that has worked in the European market, SMO said, and it wants to create that same influence in the U.S. market. 

“Demand for SMO is growing rapidly, and we have seen brands drive this across Europe and Asia, primarily by requesting their manufacturers switch to SMO, which has been very reassuring,” SMO co-founder Charlie Betts said. 

“I am, however, delighted to have partnered with C&J Fine Jewelry Makers who can not only influence some of the world’s most iconic brands but are willing to distribute to other manufacturers, in a bid to create large-scale, positive change across North America.”

C&J also has a locational advantage—Rhode Island has a rich history of jewelry manufacturing. 

“As recently as the ‘70s and ‘80s, there were more jewelry manufacturing workshops per capita in Rhode Island than anywhere else in the world,” Maietta said.

While many of the original shops are gone, the infrastructure, including refineries and equipment, remains, leaving a whole ecosystem of support for expansion.

Maietta added, “We’re engaged in conversations with chain making manufacturers literally 10 minutes down the road, and they’re supplying to the world, basically.”

SMO gold has been used by designers such as Fernando Jorge, Stephen Webster, and Shaun Leane. 

In the U.S., it made an appearance at the 2023 Met Gala, and at this year’s Couture show in Las Vegas, where designer Emily P. Wheeler introduced her first all-SMO collection. 

To learn more about SMO, visit the company’s website

Lauren McLemoreis the associate editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments.

The Latest

Treiber & Straub store Brookfield, Wisconsin
IndependentsDec 06, 2024
After 44 Years in Business, This Wisconsin Independent Is Closing

Mike Straub and John Treiber opened Treiber & Straub in 1980 with the goal of bringing Milwaukeeans the best jewelry brands.

Pantone Color of the Year Mocha Mousse
TrendsDec 06, 2024
Pantone’s Color of the Year Is a Delicious Mousse

The color for 2025, “Mocha Mousse,” embodies thoughtful indulgences and everyday pleasures.

Cocoerow Fine Jewelry’s Kokoro Ant Pendant
CollectionsDec 06, 2024
Piece of the Week: Cocoerow Fine Jewelry’s ‘Kokoro’ Pendant

The Yoruba word for ant, “Kokoro” embodies the strength of womanhood in ant society while highlighting responsible sourcing.

undefined.png
Brought to you by
Protecting Your Sparkle: Why Screening Has Become Essential

While no reputable jeweler would knowingly sell lab-grown stones as natural, it's a growing possibility.

Roberto Coin jewelry
FinancialsDec 06, 2024
Roberto Coin Acquisition Gives Watches of Switzerland a Boost in H1

The retailer’s jewelry sales doubled, with branded jewelry performing especially well.

Weekly QuizDec 05, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Gold rings
FinancialsDec 05, 2024
Signet Jewelers’ Q3 Sales Slide Amid Slow Engagement Ring Sales, Tech Issues

The jewelry retailer addressed the lab-grown diamond “disruption,” the price of gold, and its holiday weekend performance.

Hand holding shopping bags
SurveysDec 05, 2024
Consumer Confidence Rises Again in November

A more positive view of the current labor market boosted the Conference Board’s index last month.

Jewelers Mutual Group Cybersecurity
Brought to you by
Navigating Cybersecurity: Essential Guidance for Jewelers

From protecting customer data to safeguarding inventory records, it's crucial to learn how to tackle cybersecurity challenges.

Michael S. Krzemnicki
Events & AwardsDec 05, 2024
Michael S. Krzemnicki to Receive 2024 Bonanno Award

The director of the Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF) will be honored for his impact on gemology and dedication to advancing the science.

1.png
Supplier BulletinDec 05, 2024
Join Us For Color's Premier Show: 2025 AGTA GemFair Tucson

Sponsored by 2025 AGTA GemFair Tucson

Gwen Beloti, Lisa Bridge, Eddie Plein, Anna Samsonova
Events & AwardsDec 05, 2024
BIJC Announces 2024 ‘Rock the Jewels’ Awards Winners

At the annual event, in its second year, the organization honored those making remarkable contributions to the jewelry industry.

For Future Reference Vintage turquoise necklace
TrendsDec 05, 2024
Amanda’s Style File: A Blue, Blue, Blue Month

Celebrate December babies with 20 pieces of jewelry featuring this month’s birthstones—turquoise, tanzanite, and zircon.

People outside holding shopping bags
SurveysDec 04, 2024
In-Store Shopping Outpaced Online Over the Holiday Weekend, Says NRF

A total of 126 million consumers shopped in stores over the five-day period, about 5 million more than last year.

Stock photo of diamonds
Lab-GrownDec 04, 2024
GJEPC Says Indian Trade Will Use FTC-Approved Terminology for Lab-Grown Diamonds

The FTC’s Jewelry Guides require “clear and conspicuous” disclosure when advertising lab-grown diamonds.

Grandview Klein Diamond Group Staff
SourcingDec 04, 2024
Designer Saul Fraiman Retires After 55 Years

The fine jewelry designer, who came out of retirement in 2017, is putting down his sketchpad for good.

30.101-carat very light pink diamond
AuctionsDec 04, 2024
30-Carat Pink Diamond Fetches $2.6M at Bonhams

The Type IIa, very light pink colored diamond was the highlight of the recent Hong Kong jewelry auction.

John Willard Craiger mugshot
CrimeDec 03, 2024
Man Sentenced to Life in Prison for Murder of Florida Jeweler

John Willard Craiger, 83, fatally shot jeweler Ghazi “Gus” Michel Osta following an argument in the store.

National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsDec 03, 2024
Peter Smith: How a Leadership Hire Can Make or Break a Company

In his latest column, Smith provides a list of questions every business needs to be asking their next potential leader.

Glenn Lehrer
SourcingDec 03, 2024
Gemstone Cutter Glenn Lehrer Dies at 71

An innovative artist inspired by the natural world, Lehrer is remembered for being a visionary and a shining light.

Jérôme Lambert and Laurent Perves
WatchesDec 03, 2024
Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin Appoint New CEOs

Jérôme Lambert returns as CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, while Laurent Perves takes the lead role at Vacheron Constantin.

A Neiman’s Fantasy Book and Messika Necklace
MajorsDec 03, 2024
Neiman Marcus’ ‘Fantasy Gifts’ Sparkle In Pavé This Holiday Season

The extravagant gifts in this year’s “A Neiman’s Fantasy” Holiday Book range from a Messika diamond necklace to pavé diamond cowboy boots.

Windsor Jewelry storefront Indianapolis
IndependentsDec 02, 2024
Windsor Jewelry Closing After 105 Years

Owners Greg and Lynn Bires are heading into retirement.

Craig Lynch
GradingDec 02, 2024
Jewelry Appraiser Craig Lynch Dies at 70

The industry veteran is remembered for his faith, his dedication to his family, his wealth of knowledge and his generosity in sharing it.

Holiday presents
SurveysDec 02, 2024
10-Year Rewind: Comparing 2024 Holiday Shoppers With the Consumers of 2015

PricewaterhouseCoopers’ 2024 holiday trends survey took a 10-year look back to see what mattered to consumers then versus now.

Monique Lhuillier and Monique Lhuillier Bliss & Kay Jewelers necklace
Lab-GrownDec 02, 2024
Lab-Grown Diamond Jewelry Set Sells for $55K at Charity Auction

Monique Lhuillier and Kay Jewelers collaborated to create the pieces, which were offered at the recent Baby2Baby gala.

Gemfields high-quality emeralds
SourcingNov 27, 2024
Gemfields Reports 'Disappointing' High-Quality Emerald Auction Results

The miner said its November sale, which earned $16.1 million, felt the effect of competitive pricing by a rival Zambian producer.

Mignon Faget Crescent Starry Night Tassel Earrings
CollectionsNov 27, 2024
Piece of the Week: Mignon Faget’s ‘Crescent Starry Night’ Tassel Earrings

Mignon Faget honors its hometown of New Orleans with a piece inspired by “The Crescent City.”

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy