Policies & IssuesJul 23, 2024
Diamonds Do Good Announces Its 2024 Entrepreneurship Grant WinnersPolicies & IssuesAug 02, 2024
Single Mine Origin Gold Now Being Distributed in the US
Providence, Rhode Island-based C&J Fine Jewelry Makers will offer the traceable gold to companies in the U.S. and Canada.
A pair of earrings from L’Atelier Nawbar made with Single Mine Origin (SMO) gold
Providence, R.I.—Rhode Island manufacturer C&J Fine Jewelry Makers is now the exclusive distributor of Single Mine Origin (SMO) gold in the United States and Canada.
According to U.K.-based SMO, the gold from SMO member mines is the first transparent and traceable gold that has full chain of custody and is fully audited.
The gold offered by C&J Fine Jewelry Makers will be traceable to the Ity mine in Côte d’Ivoire, which SMO said has the longest history of any gold mine in the African country.
To receive accreditation from SMO, mines like Ity undergo a multi-level evaluation process during which the company applies environmental, social, and governance (ESG) criteria from international standards—like the World Gold Council’s Responsible Gold Mining Principles, the Initiative for Responsible Mining Assurance’s standards or the International Council on Mining and Metals’ principles—combining objective factors and subjective judgment.
SMO is also developing its own standard, the SMO ESG benchmark, designed as a tool for comparing SMO mines with other gold mines, regionally and globally, to ensure accountability.
The Ity mine received the Ivorian Mining Excellence Award for its ESG initiatives in both 2021 and 2023.
All jewelry made with SMO gold comes with a QR code that shows its journey from mine to market.
The QR code also offers details on the gold’s origin and beneficial effects it has had as it made its way to the consumer.
“At C&J Fine Jewelry Makers, we manufacture for the most iconic houses of fine jewelry around the world, and we have seen a growing sense of intention with our clients, and their customers, to know where and how their raw materials are sourced,” said Jeffrey D’Angelo, president of C&J Fine Jewelry Makers.
“Single Mine Origin is a needed solution to a white space in the global supply chain of gold that is traceable, responsibly sourced, and independently audited. We are excited to partner with SMO to help drive positive change within the jewelry industry.”
SMO was founded in 2017 by Dan and Charlie Betts, brothers from Birmingham, England, in response to how little of the world’s gold was fully traceable, due to how it is mined, refined, and sold.
The pair is the ninth generation of the family in the gold smelting and refining business, dating back to 1760 when Alexander Betts founded what is now the Betts Group.
In 2012, Dan left the family business to concentrate on Hummingbird Resources, a gold exploration business set up with his father, Stephen Betts.
Five years later, Hummingbird Resources established SMO together with Betts Metals.
In 2024, Hummingbird Resources fully divested, and SMO is now solely owned by the Betts Group.
Related stories will be right here …
According to U.K.-based SMO, the gold from SMO member mines is the first transparent and traceable gold that has full chain of custody and is fully audited.
The gold offered by C&J Fine Jewelry Makers will be traceable to the Ity mine in Côte d’Ivoire, which SMO said has the longest history of any gold mine in the African country.
To receive accreditation from SMO, mines like Ity undergo a multi-level evaluation process during which the company applies environmental, social, and governance (ESG) criteria from international standards—like the World Gold Council’s Responsible Gold Mining Principles, the Initiative for Responsible Mining Assurance’s standards or the International Council on Mining and Metals’ principles—combining objective factors and subjective judgment.
SMO is also developing its own standard, the SMO ESG benchmark, designed as a tool for comparing SMO mines with other gold mines, regionally and globally, to ensure accountability.
The Ity mine received the Ivorian Mining Excellence Award for its ESG initiatives in both 2021 and 2023.
All jewelry made with SMO gold comes with a QR code that shows its journey from mine to market.
The QR code also offers details on the gold’s origin and beneficial effects it has had as it made its way to the consumer.
“At C&J Fine Jewelry Makers, we manufacture for the most iconic houses of fine jewelry around the world, and we have seen a growing sense of intention with our clients, and their customers, to know where and how their raw materials are sourced,” said Jeffrey D’Angelo, president of C&J Fine Jewelry Makers.
“Single Mine Origin is a needed solution to a white space in the global supply chain of gold that is traceable, responsibly sourced, and independently audited. We are excited to partner with SMO to help drive positive change within the jewelry industry.”
SMO was founded in 2017 by Dan and Charlie Betts, brothers from Birmingham, England, in response to how little of the world’s gold was fully traceable, due to how it is mined, refined, and sold.
The pair is the ninth generation of the family in the gold smelting and refining business, dating back to 1760 when Alexander Betts founded what is now the Betts Group.
In 2012, Dan left the family business to concentrate on Hummingbird Resources, a gold exploration business set up with his father, Stephen Betts.
Five years later, Hummingbird Resources established SMO together with Betts Metals.
In 2024, Hummingbird Resources fully divested, and SMO is now solely owned by the Betts Group.
The U.S. ranks third in terms of global demand for gold jewelry, according to SMO, yet less than 4 percent of the world’s gold supply is traceable from mine to finished product, the company said.
C&J Fine Jewelry Makers Managing Director Anthony Maietta said the company has been working exclusively with recycled gold due to the demand for it.
In late 2023, one customer, jewelry brand Roséate, asked if C&J would make its jewelry using SMO gold.
That was Maietta’s introduction to the company.
After research, he decided SMO was a perfect partner for C&J for a few reasons—it’s responsibly sourced with consistent supply, it’s affordably priced, and perhaps most importantly, it can be scaled.
“Some of the responsible sources on the small-scale artisan mines, they’re doing amazing things [but] there’s also just not a lot of it to go around,” Maietta said.
He estimates that, on a daily basis, of the gold used for jewelry, electronics, and investment, about 30 percent comes from recycled sources and about 70 percent comes from newly mined sources.
Of that 70 percent, 10 percent comes from small-scale artisanal mines and 90 percent comes from large-scale mines.
Maietta added, “SMO is seeking to work with the best actors for large-scale mines. They’re working with that 90 percent.”
While customers of C&J have the choice of recycled or SMO gold from the Ity mine now, the plan is to get even more granular.
SMO has the ability to identify certain areas of the ESG spectrum where its member mines are performing particularly well.
This gives jewelers the choice of using gold from a mine whose operations resonate with its brand values.
While the C&J only has gold from the Ity mine now, its customers can request to work with a mine that, for example, is going to reach net zero emissions by the end of the year, or a mine with high female employment rates, or a mine with the highest water recycling rate of any gold mine in the world.
The topic of sustainability comes up in conversations across all sectors of the industry, including the ethical sourcing of gemstones.
SMO noted that several designers it spoke with have begun seeking alternatives to gold because of the effort they put into sourcing their gemstones in a responsible manner; they want to set it in a metal that’s sourced just as responsibly.
The same concept applies to the other hardware used to make jewelry.
To start, C&J Fine Jewelry Makers will only offer SMO gold in the form of 24-karat fine gold casting grain, so if, for example, a customer in the U.S. orders a necklace in SMO gold, the pendant would be but the chain and spring ring or lobster claw wouldn’t be.
Maietta said the next step is to onboard a chain manufacturer in the U.S. that is using SMO gold.
This lobbying of other manufacturers, and spreading awareness, is the kind of industry pressure that has worked in the European market, SMO said, and it wants to create that same influence in the U.S. market.
“Demand for SMO is growing rapidly, and we have seen brands drive this across Europe and Asia, primarily by requesting their manufacturers switch to SMO, which has been very reassuring,” SMO co-founder Charlie Betts said.
“I am, however, delighted to have partnered with C&J Fine Jewelry Makers who can not only influence some of the world’s most iconic brands but are willing to distribute to other manufacturers, in a bid to create large-scale, positive change across North America.”
C&J also has a locational advantage—Rhode Island has a rich history of jewelry manufacturing.
“As recently as the ‘70s and ‘80s, there were more jewelry manufacturing workshops per capita in Rhode Island than anywhere else in the world,” Maietta said.
While many of the original shops are gone, the infrastructure, including refineries and equipment, remains, leaving a whole ecosystem of support for expansion.
Maietta added, “We’re engaged in conversations with chain making manufacturers literally 10 minutes down the road, and they’re supplying to the world, basically.”
SMO gold has been used by designers such as Fernando Jorge, Stephen Webster, and Shaun Leane.
In the U.S., it made an appearance at the 2023 Met Gala, and at this year’s Couture show in Las Vegas, where designer Emily P. Wheeler introduced her first all-SMO collection.
To learn more about SMO, visit the company’s website.
SMO noted that several designers it spoke with have begun seeking alternatives to gold because of the effort they put into sourcing their gemstones in a responsible manner; they want to set it in a metal that’s sourced just as responsibly.
The same concept applies to the other hardware used to make jewelry.
To start, C&J Fine Jewelry Makers will only offer SMO gold in the form of 24-karat fine gold casting grain, so if, for example, a customer in the U.S. orders a necklace in SMO gold, the pendant would be but the chain and spring ring or lobster claw wouldn’t be.
Maietta said the next step is to onboard a chain manufacturer in the U.S. that is using SMO gold.
This lobbying of other manufacturers, and spreading awareness, is the kind of industry pressure that has worked in the European market, SMO said, and it wants to create that same influence in the U.S. market.
“Demand for SMO is growing rapidly, and we have seen brands drive this across Europe and Asia, primarily by requesting their manufacturers switch to SMO, which has been very reassuring,” SMO co-founder Charlie Betts said.
“I am, however, delighted to have partnered with C&J Fine Jewelry Makers who can not only influence some of the world’s most iconic brands but are willing to distribute to other manufacturers, in a bid to create large-scale, positive change across North America.”
C&J also has a locational advantage—Rhode Island has a rich history of jewelry manufacturing.
“As recently as the ‘70s and ‘80s, there were more jewelry manufacturing workshops per capita in Rhode Island than anywhere else in the world,” Maietta said.
While many of the original shops are gone, the infrastructure, including refineries and equipment, remains, leaving a whole ecosystem of support for expansion.
Maietta added, “We’re engaged in conversations with chain making manufacturers literally 10 minutes down the road, and they’re supplying to the world, basically.”
SMO gold has been used by designers such as Fernando Jorge, Stephen Webster, and Shaun Leane.
In the U.S., it made an appearance at the 2023 Met Gala, and at this year’s Couture show in Las Vegas, where designer Emily P. Wheeler introduced her first all-SMO collection.
To learn more about SMO, visit the company’s website.
More on Policies & Issues
The Latest
CrimeNov 20, 2024
Sotheby’s to Pay $6.25M Settlement to NY State for Alleged Tax FraudThe auction house was accused of helping clients avoid paying taxes on millions of dollars’ worth of art purchased from 2010 to 2020.
Events & AwardsNov 20, 2024
Kering Debuts New Jewelry Award With Sustainability FocusThe four finalists will present their pieces at the 2025 JCK Las Vegas show.
CollectionsNov 20, 2024
Pamela Love Channels Surrealist Artists in New CollectionThe “Camera Oscura” collection showcases earring designs celebrating female Surrealist artists Claude Cahun and Leonor Fini.
Brought to you by
Navigating Cybersecurity: Essential Guidance for JewelersFrom protecting customer data to safeguarding inventory records, it's crucial to learn how to tackle cybersecurity challenges.
Events & AwardsNov 20, 2024
The Jewelry Symposium Opens Registration, Scholarship ApplicationsThe event centered on advancing jewelry manufacturing technology will return to Detroit in May 2025.
Weekly QuizNov 14, 2024
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CrimeNov 19, 2024
Woman Killed in Armed Robbery of Sacramento Jewelry StoreLocal reports identified the woman as the wife of the jewelry store owner.
AuctionsNov 19, 2024
‘A Tsar’s Treasure’ Fetches $2.9M at Sotheby’s Jewelry SaleA collection of pieces owned by Ferdinand I, the first king of modern Bulgaria, and his family, blew away estimates in Geneva last week.
Brought to you by
Enhance Your Expertise with IGI’s In-Person Courses in NYCThis fall, sharpen your skills in jewelry grading, quality control and diamond assessment.
MajorsNov 19, 2024
Trove Opens First US Flagship in NYCThe Australian jewelry box brand’s new West Village store will showcase new jewelers each month through its Designer in Residence program.
CollectionsNov 19, 2024
Snoop Dogg’s New Jewelry Collection Is All About Love“Lovechild” was created in partnership with Carolyn Rafaelian’s Metal Alchemist brand.
EditorsNov 18, 2024
Q&A: Helzberg CEO Brad Hampton on the Jeweler’s RebrandHampton discussed how Helzberg is improving the customer experience and why it was inspired by the company formerly known as Dunkin’ Donuts.
CollectionsNov 18, 2024
Dolly Parton Shines in Collaboration with Kendra ScottThe collection honors the 50th anniversary of Dolly Parton’s “Love is Like a Butterfly” song, which shares a birth year with Kendra Scott.
Events & AwardsNov 18, 2024
IGI Jewelry Design Competition ReturnsThis year’s theme asks designers to take inspiration from classic fairy tales.
EditorsNov 15, 2024
Why Fine Jewelry Belongs at New York Comic ConSenior Editor Lenore Fedow makes the case for why more jewelers should be appealing to nerds at the annual event.
CollectionsNov 15, 2024
Marie Lichtenberg Battles Counterfeits with New ‘Raiz’in Scapular’ DesignsThe latest “Raiz’in” drop showcases a newly designed “Scapular” necklace and donates a portion of the proceeds to Make-A-Wish France.
WatchesNov 15, 2024
Piece of the Week: Citizen’s Commemorative Pocket WatchNo. 1 out of 100, the timepiece was created to mark Citizen’s 100th anniversary and will be auctioned off at Sotheby’s next month.
Recorded WebinarsNov 15, 2024
Watch: 10 Tips to Keep Your Jewelry Store Secure On the latest episode of “My Next Question,” two experts share best practices for store security during the holidays and year-round.
AuctionsNov 14, 2024
18th-Century Diamond Necklace Sells for Nearly $5M Sotheby’s sold the necklace, which potentially has ties to Marie-Antoinette, for $4.8 million to a woman bidding via phone.
MajorsNov 14, 2024
Saks Fifth Avenue Cancels Holiday Light DisplayInstead of its usual elaborate display, the store will illuminate its façade and frame the windows to highlight its flagship’s architecture.
WatchesNov 14, 2024
Grand Seiko Partners With Ben Bridge on First Hawaii Store The new Grand Seiko boutique is located in Honolulu’s Waikiki neighborhood.
SourcingNov 13, 2024
Gem Legacy Adventures Announces 2025 Trip Eleven spots are available for travelers to visit Northern Tanzania and Southern Kenya from July 25 to Aug. 4.
AuctionsNov 13, 2024
Aga Khan Emerald Sells for $8.8M, Sets RecordThe emerald brooch-turned-pendant returned to auction after 55 years, setting a world record for most expensive emerald sold at auction.
AuctionsNov 13, 2024
‘Exceptional’ Burmese Ruby Ring Tops $5M at Auction Phillips also sold a 1.21-carat fancy red diamond dubbed the “Red Miracle” for more than $1 million at its jewelry auction in Geneva.
MajorsNov 13, 2024
Ariana Grande, Anya Taylor-Joy Star in Holiday Jewelry CampaignsFrom Swarovski to Tiffany & Co., jewelry retailers are enlisting celebrities to highlight their holiday offerings.
MajorsNov 13, 2024
Royal Chain’s New Catalog Is Out NowThe 2024-2025 book introduces hundreds of new designs.
FinancialsNov 12, 2024
Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels Continue to Shine for Richemont Richemont’s jewelry sales ticked up 2 percent in the first half of the year, while watch sales plummeted 17 percent.
GradingNov 12, 2024
GIA’s Next-Day Services Return for the HolidaysOffered by the lab since 2016, the holiday season special is good from now through mid-December.
