Sotheby’s Withdraws 101-Carat Yellow Diamond from Auction

Geneva—A highlight of Sotheby’s recent Geneva jewelry auction was a 101-carat yellow diamond dubbed “The Allnatt,” but it was withdrawn from the sale.

“The Allnatt” is a 101.29-carat fancy vivid yellow diamond mounted in a Cartier brooch. It had a pre-sale estimate of CHF 5.6 million to 6.5 million ($6.2 million to $7.2 million).

“It has been a privilege to present ‘The Allnatt’ to collectors and connoisseurs over the past few months. Following discussions with the consignor, they have elected to retain this jewel,” Sotheby’s said in a statement to National Jeweler.

The “Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels” sale, held Tuesday, totaled CHF 31.1 million ($34.3 million) with 90 percent of lots sold, and 96 percent of lots exceeding their lowest estimates.

“This edition of our ‘Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels’ sale was marked by a succession of outstanding results, affirming the continued strength in the market for jewels and gemstones of the finest quality,” said Catharine Becket, head of Magnificent Jewels, Geneva.

North America accounted for the largest percentage of bidders and buyers, said Sotheby’s, followed by Hong Kong and China, then the U.K., Switzerland, India, and Italy.

The sale continues to draw in younger bidders, said the auction house. More than 40 percent of bidders were between the ages of 20 and 49.

The top lot was a 37.61-carat round-cornered square brilliant-cut diamond, which sold for CHF 3.9 million ($4.3 million), above its pre-sale estimate of CHF 1.5 million to 2.4 million ($1.6 million to $2.6 million).

Sapphires were a standout in the sale, with six sapphires among the top 12 lots, said Sotheby’s.

In the No. 2 spot was a 17.29-carat cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire, set in a ring between triangular diamonds.

It sold for CHF 3.4 million ($3.8 million), above its estimate of CHF 500,000 to 800,000 ($553,408 to $885,452).

Sapphire jewels also took the No. 3 spot. Up for sale was a sapphire and diamond parure, including a pendant necklace, a bracelet, a pair of earrings, a ring, and a wristwatch.

The necklace is set with a 51.77-carat sapphire and pear-shaped, brilliant-cut, and tapered baguette diamonds while the bracelet features a 20.77-carat sapphire.

The earrings are set with two oval-shaped sapphires, weighing 8.43 carats and 8.12 carats, while the ring has an 11.59-carat oval sapphire.

The watch features a lapis lazuli dial and is signed “Gérald Genta.”

The set sold for CHF 1.3 million ($1.4 million), above its estimate of CHF 730,000 to 1.1 million ($807,975 to $1.2 million).

A colored diamond toi et moi ring was the auction’s fourth highest-grossing lot.

The ring is set with a 3.03-carat pear-shaped fancy intense blue diamond and a 2.82-carat diamond of a similar shape, with the mounting pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds.

The ring is signed “Sotheby’s Diamonds by JdG (James Taffin de Givenchy).”

It sold for CHF 825,500 ($913,676), within its estimate of CHF 730,000 to 1.1 million ($807,975 to $1.2 million).

In fifth place was a natural pearl and diamond necklace, circa 1920. The clasp is set with a marquise-shaped diamond.

It sold for CHF 698,500 ($773,110), within its estimate of CHF 550,000 to 730,000 ($608,748 to $807,975)

Another notable lot was a spinel and diamond ring, which sold for double its lowest pre-sale estimate and set a new record for a spinel sold by Sotheby’s, the auction house said.

The 35.25-carat cushion-shaped spinel, set between half-moon diamond shoulders, has a maker’s mark for Carvin French, a notable New York jeweler.

The ring sold for CHF 685,800 ($759,884), above its estimate of CHF 320,000 to 500,000 ($354,568 to $554,013)

A “Flamant,” or flamingo, brooch by Cartier, circa 1988-1989, was also up for sale. It’s a recreation of the brooch Cartier designed for the Duchess of Windsor in 1940, said Sotheby’s.

“The jewel, offered with the original design drawing, is regarded as one of Cartier’s most iconic designs and is perhaps the only recreation of the original Duchess of Windsor flamingo brooch ever issued by the legendary maison,” the auction house said.

Its plumage is set with calibré-cut rubies, sapphires, and emeralds, while the beak has a blue sapphire and yellow sapphire. Its eye is a blue sapphire while its neck, body, and hinged legs are set with brilliant-cut pavé diamonds.

It sold for CHF 419,100 ($463,866), above its estimate of CHF 100,000 to 150,000 ($110,681 to $166,022).

Another parure was also up for sale, featuring a bib necklace, a bracelet, and a pair of ear clips, set with diamonds and aquamarines.

It sold for CHF 533,400 ($591,021), within its estimate of CHF 460,000 to 640,000. ($509,691 to $709,136).

Within the overall jewelry auction was a single-owner collection sale, “Iconic Jewels: Her Sense of Style,” a group of 46 signed jewels owned by an unnamed collector.

All the pieces in the collection sold and it achieved double what Sotheby’s expected.

The star piece was a Bulgari “Buddha” sautoir, circa 1971, previously owned by the late Lyn Revson, a 1970s style icon and the former wife of Revlon founder Charles Revson.

The detachable pendant features the Buddha, made of citrines and onyx, accented by buff-top ruby and brilliant-cut diamonds, with a halo of calibré-cut sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds. 

The attached fancy link chain features collet-set cabochon citrines, onyx, and a sapphire. The necklace can be shortened or detached to be worn as three bracelets.

The Bulgari “Buddha” sautoir sold for CHF 660,400 ($731,740), more than six times its lowest pre-sale estimate.