MajorsSep 22, 2023
David Yurman Alleges These Two Companies Copied Its DesignsIndependentsJan 11, 2024
Independent Brand Ox Sues H&M for Allegedly Knocking Off Its ‘Ourglass’
Ox is accusing the fast-fashion retailer of patent infringement, trade dress infringement, and unfair competition.
Ox’s “Ourglass” bracelet in 18-karat yellow gold is set with 13.7 total carats of diamonds (price upon request). An independent jewelry brand officially launched in 2022, Ox is suing H&M for allegedly knocking off its patented design. (Photo courtesy of Ox)
New York—Independent jewelry brand Ox has filed suit against H&M, accusing the fast-fashion giant of copying and then selling “cheap” versions of its patented “Ourglass” design in its holiday collection.
Filed Dec. 22 in federal court in New York, the lawsuit opens with a reference to a Christmas classic.
“The usual suspects this holiday season are not Harry and Marv from ‘Home Alone’ but Hennes & Mauritz of H&M and instead of invading and robbing a kid’s home, defendant is selling unauthorized copies of a young and independent brand’s jewelry as part of its 2023 holiday collection,” it states.
Sister-and-brother duo Jessica and Michael Busiashvili founded Ox after Jessica spent years researching and developing the design concept that serves as the company’s backbone, the “Ourglass” link.
Ourglass links consist of two hourglass-shaped components that intersect to create one form, with a diamond set into each of the four ends.
They have no front or back, making the diamonds visible from all angles, and are uniformly sized and circular so they roll on the wearer’s body, as seen in this Reels video on Ox’s Instagram.
The company received a U.S. utility patent for the Ourglass in January 2020, and a design patent in August 2021, according to exhibits filed alongside the lawsuit.
In March 2022, Ox launched its brand with a single tennis bracelet, later expanding to rings, earrings, necklaces, pendants, and chains.
Since then, the brand has gone viral on Instagram and “routinely attracted unpaid media coverage,” the lawsuit notes.
This includes a November 2023 profile in National Jeweler in which the publication’s former Senior Editor, Fashion, Ashley Davis wrote, “Just when you think you’ve seen every possible rendition of a diamond tennis bracelet, [Ox] comes along and innovates the classic style.”
Somewhere along the way, Ox contends in the suit, H&M “spotted” its jewelry and “intentionally copied” the Ox trade dress for jewelry sold as part of its 2023 holiday collection, which it began selling in early November.
Ox sent H&M a cease and desist letter on Nov. 10, and the retailer’s attorneys responded on Dec. 6, with both letters filed as exhibits accompanying the lawsuit.
In its response, H&M declined to pull the allegedly infringing jewelry from its stores.
An attorney for the retailer contended, in part, that the design patent for the Ourglass link is invalid because it has “the same functional, rather than ornamental, features” as the brand’s utility patent.
“We see no reason for further discussion over an invalid patent,” the letter reads.
In the letter, the attorney also threatens to work to invalidate Ox’s design patent, stating, “Although we would prefer not to, please understand that we are confident in our ability to quickly invalidate the ’617 patent [the design patent] through an IPR [inter partes review] proceeding at a negligible cost to H&M.”
H&M declined to comment on the lawsuit, citing the fact that the litigation is ongoing.
Related stories will be right here …
Filed Dec. 22 in federal court in New York, the lawsuit opens with a reference to a Christmas classic.
“The usual suspects this holiday season are not Harry and Marv from ‘Home Alone’ but Hennes & Mauritz of H&M and instead of invading and robbing a kid’s home, defendant is selling unauthorized copies of a young and independent brand’s jewelry as part of its 2023 holiday collection,” it states.
Sister-and-brother duo Jessica and Michael Busiashvili founded Ox after Jessica spent years researching and developing the design concept that serves as the company’s backbone, the “Ourglass” link.
Ourglass links consist of two hourglass-shaped components that intersect to create one form, with a diamond set into each of the four ends.
They have no front or back, making the diamonds visible from all angles, and are uniformly sized and circular so they roll on the wearer’s body, as seen in this Reels video on Ox’s Instagram.
The company received a U.S. utility patent for the Ourglass in January 2020, and a design patent in August 2021, according to exhibits filed alongside the lawsuit.
In March 2022, Ox launched its brand with a single tennis bracelet, later expanding to rings, earrings, necklaces, pendants, and chains.
Since then, the brand has gone viral on Instagram and “routinely attracted unpaid media coverage,” the lawsuit notes.
This includes a November 2023 profile in National Jeweler in which the publication’s former Senior Editor, Fashion, Ashley Davis wrote, “Just when you think you’ve seen every possible rendition of a diamond tennis bracelet, [Ox] comes along and innovates the classic style.”
Somewhere along the way, Ox contends in the suit, H&M “spotted” its jewelry and “intentionally copied” the Ox trade dress for jewelry sold as part of its 2023 holiday collection, which it began selling in early November.
Ox sent H&M a cease and desist letter on Nov. 10, and the retailer’s attorneys responded on Dec. 6, with both letters filed as exhibits accompanying the lawsuit.
In its response, H&M declined to pull the allegedly infringing jewelry from its stores.
An attorney for the retailer contended, in part, that the design patent for the Ourglass link is invalid because it has “the same functional, rather than ornamental, features” as the brand’s utility patent.
“We see no reason for further discussion over an invalid patent,” the letter reads.
In the letter, the attorney also threatens to work to invalidate Ox’s design patent, stating, “Although we would prefer not to, please understand that we are confident in our ability to quickly invalidate the ’617 patent [the design patent] through an IPR [inter partes review] proceeding at a negligible cost to H&M.”
H&M declined to comment on the lawsuit, citing the fact that the litigation is ongoing.
The lawsuit filed by Ox includes a close-up shot of H&M’s alleged copy of the brand’s signature Ourglass bracelet, as well as photos of Ox-like necklaces and earrings sold by the fast-fashion retailer.
Ox, the suit notes, manufactures its jewelry in platinum or 18-karat gold with “top quality” natural diamonds while H&M’s products are “made from cheap and disposable materials.”
While there is a clear difference in price between the companies’ products—H&M’s sold out “Chunky Rhinestone Necklace” was priced at $69.99, while Ox’s jewelry starts at just under $4,000—Ox does not want consumers thinking it is making the jewelry H&M is selling.
It said in the lawsuit that within days of the allegedly infringing jewelry hitting the market, people as far away as London were calling Jessica to tell her they spotted Ox-like jewelry at H&M.
“The similarities between the legitimate items embodying the Ox trade dress and the infringing products sold by [H&M] are so striking that consumers have been and will continue to be confused into believing that the infringing products were designed and sold as part of Ox, although the infringing products do not represent the quality, craftsmanship, and luxury that is synonymous with Ox,” the suit states.
Ox is bringing three claims against H&M Hennes & Mauritz LP: patent infringement, infringement of the Ox trade dress, and unfair competition.
It is asking for monetary damages in the case as well as the profits H&M made from selling the alleged copies.
The jewelry brand also wants the court to issue an injunction prohibiting further infringement and unfair competition by H&M.
More on Independents
The Latest
EditorsJul 29, 2026
Q&A: The Past and Future of Angola’s Diamond Industry Endiama Commercial Director Elton Escrivão knows people have a lot of misperceptions about Angola. He wants to change that.
MajorsJul 29, 2026
Kevin Reilly Retires After 39 Years in the Jewelry Industry Reilly has been with PGI USA for the last 20 years, leading partnership development and professional education.
FinancialsJul 29, 2026
Kering’s H1 Jewelry Sales Up 14%Boucheron reached record sales while Pomellato found success in its signature collections.
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying EventsRetailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.
Events & AwardsJul 29, 2026
Lauren Harwell Godfrey Designs a Flag for ArkansasShe was one of more than 120 American designers who created flags for the “United Flags of Fashion” project led by CFDA and Vogue.
Weekly QuizJul 23, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
ColumnistsJul 28, 2026
Peter Smith: Why Your Job Postings May Be Working Against You Smith reveals the method The Retail Smiths use to help retailers and vendors write better job postings.
FinancialsJul 28, 2026
Tiffany & Co., Bulgari Lead the Way for LVMH in H1LVMH’s jewelry and watch brands outperformed the company’s other divisions in an environment the company described as “disrupted.”
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center StageColored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.
CollectionsJul 28, 2026
Lionheart’s New Collection Unites Spiritual Iconography“Sacred Heart” features symbols like crosses, angel wings, the Star of David, and the evil eye as a representation of coexistence.
Events & AwardsJul 28, 2026
The Edge Funding 2 Scholarships Via 24 Karat Club SEUS The scholarships will go to early-career professionals looking to study gemology, bench work and jewelry design, or store operations.
SurveysJul 27, 2026
Jewelry Leads Luxury Market Amid Stabilization, Bain SaysBain & Company delved into the trends shaping the luxury market, the impact of AI, and more in its recent study.
SourcingJul 27, 2026
‘Rubies’ Goes on Display at Harvard MuseumThe exhibition reveals the gemology, geology, and cultural history of the iconic red gemstone.
Policies & IssuesJul 24, 2026
New Trump Tariffs: What They Mean for Jewelry The new sweeping slate of tariffs impacts 60 countries, including India, China, Thailand, Hong Kong, and the United Arab Emirates.
TrendsJul 24, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Ode to ‘The Odyssey’From coin pendants to diamond shields, these old world-inspired jewels are the perfect accessory for an epic journey.
TrendsJul 24, 2026
Courtney Leidy’s Silk Cord Pendants Center Unexpected Pairings Our Piece of the Week pairs a checkerboard-cut amethyst with an ivy green silk cord.
PodcastsJul 23, 2026
Episode 7: Reinhold Jewelers on the Power of RelationshipsMildred Marcano Abrams and Yael Reinhold join the podcast to talk community connections, holiday plans, and preserving Reinhold’s legacy.
SourcingJul 23, 2026
De Beers’ Production Jumps 88 Percent in Q2 Production also was up in the first half of 2026 but is expected to “substantially” decrease in H2 as two key mines undergo maintenance.
CollectionsJul 23, 2026
Silvia Furmanovich’s New Collection Travels Back to the 1920s“Art Deco” fuses ancestral techniques, rare materials, and modern perspectives as a tribute to the optimism and curiosity of the movement.
WatchesJul 23, 2026
Movado Inks Licensing Deal With Kate Spade New YorkThe watch company will design, manufacture, and distribute Kate Spade New York watches.
Policies & IssuesJul 22, 2026
Trump to Put 50% Tariff on Canadian Goods The higher tax is set to go into effect in August and will apply to loose polished diamonds as well as precious and base metals jewelry.
CollectionsJul 22, 2026
Monica Rich Kosann’s High Jewelry Is FruitfulThe “Enchanted Garden” series features a cherry, lemon, and pear that each hold a little secret inside.
Events & AwardsJul 22, 2026
NY Now Returns in August Under New OwnershipThe show, recently acquired by Rockview Management Group, will be held at New York City’s Javits Center from Aug. 2-4.
ColumnistsJul 21, 2026
Sherry Smith: Shattering the Illusion of the ‘Either/Or’ Diamond MarketSmith offers retailers guidance on creating an environment where natural and lab-grown diamonds can both thrive.
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2026
Apollo Funds Completes Emerald AcquisitionFormer Emerald President and CEO Hervé Sedky has transitioned to the role of senior advisor.
CollectionsJul 21, 2026
Graff’s New Butterfly High Jewelry Brooches MetamorphosizeThe 12-piece capsule collection transforms from brooches to pendants.
SourcingJul 21, 2026
Anglo Reportedly Selects Gareth Penny’s Consortium as Top Bidder for De BeersA Botswana government official told lawmakers Anglo has selected The Global Diamond Consortium, an entity chaired by Penny, to buy De Beers.
Policies & IssuesJul 20, 2026
Tariffs on Brazil to Increase But Rough Gemstones ExemptThe new tariff, imposed after a Trump administration study, is 25 percent and will stack on top of existing tariffs.
