MajorsSep 22, 2023
David Yurman Alleges These Two Companies Copied Its DesignsIndependentsJan 11, 2024
Independent Brand Ox Sues H&M for Allegedly Knocking Off Its ‘Ourglass’
Ox is accusing the fast-fashion retailer of patent infringement, trade dress infringement, and unfair competition.
Ox’s “Ourglass” bracelet in 18-karat yellow gold is set with 13.7 total carats of diamonds (price upon request). An independent jewelry brand officially launched in 2022, Ox is suing H&M for allegedly knocking off its patented design. (Photo courtesy of Ox)
New York—Independent jewelry brand Ox has filed suit against H&M, accusing the fast-fashion giant of copying and then selling “cheap” versions of its patented “Ourglass” design in its holiday collection.
Filed Dec. 22 in federal court in New York, the lawsuit opens with a reference to a Christmas classic.
“The usual suspects this holiday season are not Harry and Marv from ‘Home Alone’ but Hennes & Mauritz of H&M and instead of invading and robbing a kid’s home, defendant is selling unauthorized copies of a young and independent brand’s jewelry as part of its 2023 holiday collection,” it states.
Sister-and-brother duo Jessica and Michael Busiashvili founded Ox after Jessica spent years researching and developing the design concept that serves as the company’s backbone, the “Ourglass” link.
Ourglass links consist of two hourglass-shaped components that intersect to create one form, with a diamond set into each of the four ends.
They have no front or back, making the diamonds visible from all angles, and are uniformly sized and circular so they roll on the wearer’s body, as seen in this Reels video on Ox’s Instagram.
The company received a U.S. utility patent for the Ourglass in January 2020, and a design patent in August 2021, according to exhibits filed alongside the lawsuit.
In March 2022, Ox launched its brand with a single tennis bracelet, later expanding to rings, earrings, necklaces, pendants, and chains.
Since then, the brand has gone viral on Instagram and “routinely attracted unpaid media coverage,” the lawsuit notes.
This includes a November 2023 profile in National Jeweler in which the publication’s former Senior Editor, Fashion, Ashley Davis wrote, “Just when you think you’ve seen every possible rendition of a diamond tennis bracelet, [Ox] comes along and innovates the classic style.”
Somewhere along the way, Ox contends in the suit, H&M “spotted” its jewelry and “intentionally copied” the Ox trade dress for jewelry sold as part of its 2023 holiday collection, which it began selling in early November.
Ox sent H&M a cease and desist letter on Nov. 10, and the retailer’s attorneys responded on Dec. 6, with both letters filed as exhibits accompanying the lawsuit.
In its response, H&M declined to pull the allegedly infringing jewelry from its stores.
An attorney for the retailer contended, in part, that the design patent for the Ourglass link is invalid because it has “the same functional, rather than ornamental, features” as the brand’s utility patent.
“We see no reason for further discussion over an invalid patent,” the letter reads.
In the letter, the attorney also threatens to work to invalidate Ox’s design patent, stating, “Although we would prefer not to, please understand that we are confident in our ability to quickly invalidate the ’617 patent [the design patent] through an IPR [inter partes review] proceeding at a negligible cost to H&M.”
H&M declined to comment on the lawsuit, citing the fact that the litigation is ongoing.
Related stories will be right here …
Filed Dec. 22 in federal court in New York, the lawsuit opens with a reference to a Christmas classic.
“The usual suspects this holiday season are not Harry and Marv from ‘Home Alone’ but Hennes & Mauritz of H&M and instead of invading and robbing a kid’s home, defendant is selling unauthorized copies of a young and independent brand’s jewelry as part of its 2023 holiday collection,” it states.
Sister-and-brother duo Jessica and Michael Busiashvili founded Ox after Jessica spent years researching and developing the design concept that serves as the company’s backbone, the “Ourglass” link.
Ourglass links consist of two hourglass-shaped components that intersect to create one form, with a diamond set into each of the four ends.
They have no front or back, making the diamonds visible from all angles, and are uniformly sized and circular so they roll on the wearer’s body, as seen in this Reels video on Ox’s Instagram.
The company received a U.S. utility patent for the Ourglass in January 2020, and a design patent in August 2021, according to exhibits filed alongside the lawsuit.
In March 2022, Ox launched its brand with a single tennis bracelet, later expanding to rings, earrings, necklaces, pendants, and chains.
Since then, the brand has gone viral on Instagram and “routinely attracted unpaid media coverage,” the lawsuit notes.
This includes a November 2023 profile in National Jeweler in which the publication’s former Senior Editor, Fashion, Ashley Davis wrote, “Just when you think you’ve seen every possible rendition of a diamond tennis bracelet, [Ox] comes along and innovates the classic style.”
Somewhere along the way, Ox contends in the suit, H&M “spotted” its jewelry and “intentionally copied” the Ox trade dress for jewelry sold as part of its 2023 holiday collection, which it began selling in early November.
Ox sent H&M a cease and desist letter on Nov. 10, and the retailer’s attorneys responded on Dec. 6, with both letters filed as exhibits accompanying the lawsuit.
In its response, H&M declined to pull the allegedly infringing jewelry from its stores.
An attorney for the retailer contended, in part, that the design patent for the Ourglass link is invalid because it has “the same functional, rather than ornamental, features” as the brand’s utility patent.
“We see no reason for further discussion over an invalid patent,” the letter reads.
In the letter, the attorney also threatens to work to invalidate Ox’s design patent, stating, “Although we would prefer not to, please understand that we are confident in our ability to quickly invalidate the ’617 patent [the design patent] through an IPR [inter partes review] proceeding at a negligible cost to H&M.”
H&M declined to comment on the lawsuit, citing the fact that the litigation is ongoing.
The lawsuit filed by Ox includes a close-up shot of H&M’s alleged copy of the brand’s signature Ourglass bracelet, as well as photos of Ox-like necklaces and earrings sold by the fast-fashion retailer.
Ox, the suit notes, manufactures its jewelry in platinum or 18-karat gold with “top quality” natural diamonds while H&M’s products are “made from cheap and disposable materials.”
While there is a clear difference in price between the companies’ products—H&M’s sold out “Chunky Rhinestone Necklace” was priced at $69.99, while Ox’s jewelry starts at just under $4,000—Ox does not want consumers thinking it is making the jewelry H&M is selling.
It said in the lawsuit that within days of the allegedly infringing jewelry hitting the market, people as far away as London were calling Jessica to tell her they spotted Ox-like jewelry at H&M.
“The similarities between the legitimate items embodying the Ox trade dress and the infringing products sold by [H&M] are so striking that consumers have been and will continue to be confused into believing that the infringing products were designed and sold as part of Ox, although the infringing products do not represent the quality, craftsmanship, and luxury that is synonymous with Ox,” the suit states.
Ox is bringing three claims against H&M Hennes & Mauritz LP: patent infringement, infringement of the Ox trade dress, and unfair competition.
It is asking for monetary damages in the case as well as the profits H&M made from selling the alleged copies.
The jewelry brand also wants the court to issue an injunction prohibiting further infringement and unfair competition by H&M.
More on Independents
The Latest
WatchesOct 29, 2026
Bucherer Opens Rolex Boutique in Washington StateThe Rolex-owned retailer’s new 4,700-square-foot store’s façade honors the Pacific Northwest’s evergreen forests.
TrendsOct 29, 2026
Amanda's Style File: All Treats, No Tricks Get into the Halloween spirit with this roundup of 13 spooky jewels.
MajorsOct 29, 2026
Gesswein Hires Longtime Bench Jeweler, Educator Ann CahoonCahoon was appointed strategic account and educational program manager at Gesswein, which recently joined Continental Buying Group.
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Launches 2026 Holiday Campaign Championing Natural DiamondsA Diamond Is Forever's holiday campaign reimagines natural diamond icons for a new generation celebrating individuality.
MajorsOct 29, 2026
Amanda Seyfried Stars In Tiffany & Co.’s Holiday CampaignTiffany & Co.’s latest ambassador makes her debut in its “Love Is a Gift” holiday campaign.
Weekly QuizOct 22, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
EditorsOct 28, 2026
These Wicked Jewels Will Cast a Spell on YouFor her annual Halloween story, Senior Editor Lenore Fedow highlights bewitching jewels fit for a witch that go from day to unholy night.
CrimeOct 28, 2026
Man In Florida Who Swallowed Tiffany & Co. Earrings ConvictedJaythan Gilder was found guilty of robbery and grand theft after stealing and then ingesting nearly $800,000 worth of Tiffany & Co. jewelry.
Brought to you by
Open an Account, Get $50 Off Your First Order. No Code Needed.Built on Relationships. Refined by Craft.
SurveysOct 28, 2026
Consumer Confidence Up in October as Gas Prices EaseConsumer confidence remains on the long-term downward trend that’s persisted over the past few years, said a Conference Board economist.
MajorsOct 28, 2026
Stuller’s Holiday Campaign Lets the ‘Magic of the Moment’ ShineThe holiday campaign includes key jewelry trends, a curated holiday gift guide, and resources to help jewelers prepare for holiday shoppers.
SourcingOct 27, 2026
De Beers Celebrates the Holidays With New ‘Desert Diamonds’ CampaignThe “Icons” holiday campaign spotlights four classic diamond jewelry styles reimagined in “Desert Diamond” tones.
Events & AwardsOct 27, 2026
JFC Announces 2027 ‘Facets’ HonoreesThe annual fundraising event is slated for June 6, 2027, at The Venetian Resort in Las Vegas.
CollectionsOct 26, 2026
Bliss Lau’s ‘Vantage’ Point Is the Hawaiian HorizonIn her “Vantage” collection, Lau explores heritage, identity, and inner strength through designs featuring blue-green Guatemalan jade.
MajorsOct 26, 2026
Tiffany & Co. Takes Consumers Behind the ScenesThe jeweler gave the public backstage tours of its flagship store and its design and innovation workshop as part of LVMH’s open house.
Events & AwardsOct 26, 2026
Support JFC’s ‘Monster Mash Challenge,’ If You DareVote for which jewelry professional should dress up as a monster to support Jewelers for Children’s annual Halloween fundraiser.
MajorsOct 23, 2026
PGI USA Set to Close at Year’s EndThe closure is part of a global restructuring that also includes PGI winding down its operations in Japan, South Korea, and Hong Kong.
SourcingOct 23, 2026
Rachel Chalchinsky’s ‘Survivor Tribute’ RingThe ring, our Piece of the Week, was designed by eight-year breast cancer survivor Rachel Chalchinsky of Color Source Gems.
TechnologyOct 23, 2026
JA Unveils New Website, LogoThe website offers enhanced member benefit access, industry directories, educational resources, a job board, and access to the MJSA Journal.
FinancialsOct 23, 2026
Kering’s Jewelry Sales Up Double Digits in Q3Boucheron and Pomellato had a strong third quarter, with Kering looking at jewelry as an increasingly important part of its portfolio.
CrimeOct 22, 2026
Jeweler Shot and Killed in His Suburban Cincinnati Store Tara Sinchuri was the owner of Everest Jewels in Fairfield, Ohio, and a father of three. He was found dead in his store on Tuesday.
MajorsOct 22, 2026
Neiman Marcus Has Gifts for the Jewelry Lover Who Has EverythingBespoke experiences from Buccellati and Verdura are on the retailer’s 2026 “Fantasy Gifts” list.
Events & AwardsOct 22, 2026
JIS Fall 2026 Reports Record-Breaking Attendance The number of participants at the fall show was up 12 percent.
CollectionsOct 22, 2026
Billie Eilish, Finneas Co-Design Collection for John HardyThe Academy and Grammy award-winning siblings have collaborated with John Hardy on a new jewelry line inspired by their personal style.
PodcastsOct 21, 2026
Episode 10: This Episode Is Haunted Diana Singer shared the stories of two “cursed” diamonds on this month’s podcast, which was inexplicably riddled with technical issues.
IndependentsOct 21, 2026
Gardner-Collier Jewelry to Close After 9 Decades in BusinessThe family-owned jeweler has three locations across Missouri and Iowa.
SourcingOct 21, 2026
Venetia Mines Final Carats Ahead of 2-Year ShutdownThe De Beers-owned diamond mine in South Africa is being put on ice as part of a round of previously announced cost-cutting measures.
CollectionsOct 21, 2026
Helzberg, Nordstrom Carrying New Jewelry Collection From Off-WhiteThe collection centers designs with clean geometric lines, chunky sculptural pieces, and recognizable details from the luxury fashion brand.
