Sourcing

Diamond Manufacturing: India’s Technology Journey

SourcingOct 19, 2022

Diamond Manufacturing: India’s Technology Journey

New supply chain dynamics backed by digitalization, AI, and human capital are changing the economics of the Indian diamond industry.

20221019_Galahad Compass.jpg
Lexus Group’s Galahad Compass is one of the technologies that is helping India’s diamond manufacturing sector to evolve, particularly among Indian manufacturers that are opening factories in Africa.
Surat, India—With 90 percent of the world’s diamonds cut and polished in Surat, India is a global hub for diamond manufacturing. 
 
Traditionally, the diamond industry has followed the trail of low labor costs. 
 
Once upon a time, New York was a major diamond manufacturing center. Lower wage costs in Europe brought the industry to Belgium, followed by Israel and then India. 
 
The processing of diamonds was a slow and expensive process. 
 
Even highly skilled artisans could not avoid waste. The inclusions present in the diamond could not be identified easily, which led to poor quality diamonds.
 
Cutting and polishing was mostly a manual process. 
 
Rudimentary tools, such as a knife and a hammer, were used to break the rough. This was an inefficient process, as it would result in the loss of some pieces of the diamond and, thereby, the loss of potential profits.
 
The emery wheels were hand-operated in those days, which meant the workers would process fewer than three chunks of rough per day.
 
Laser machines brought a revolutionary change to the diamond manufacturing industry. The diamond processing machines provided all the applications, from planning to polishing. These minimized waste as well as scanned the impurities, which boosted the quality of the diamonds.
 
SLTL (Sahajanand Laser Technology Ltd.) Group and Surat-based technology company STPL have been  pioneers in bringing laser technology to India. 
 
In 1992 Arvind Patel, managing director of SLTL Group, set up a factory in Gandhinagar in the state of Gujarat, India, to manufacture laser cutting machines. 
 
He imported a laser machine from a Swiss manufacturer and re-engineered it to launch an Indian version at less than half the price. 
 
SLTL Group provides a one-stop solution for diamond processing, starting from planning and marking, to cleaning or sawing, and bruting and polishing. The measurement of the rough diamond is done by an AI-assisted planning process that provides insights regarding the optimal diamond yield to the user. 
 
About half of the 10,000 diamond processing units in Gujarat using laser cutting machines are based in Surat.
 
Large Indian diamond manufacturers, such as SRK Exports, Karp Group and Hari Krishna Exports, use sophisticated machines made by Switzerland-based Synova that uses an advanced proprietary Laserjet Micro System (LMJ) technology. 
 
LMJ is a hybrid method combining a laser with a hair-thin water jet that precisely guides the laser beam by means of total internal reflection at the water/ air interface. 
 
Synova has set up two micro-machining centers in Surat and Mumbai to better serve their existing customers and to meet growing market demand.
 
There’s also DiaBot, a multipurpose robot from InnovSeed. The robot has “helped us to improve security, efficiency and cost reduction in rough sorting and auto-polishing,” said Vipul Sutaria, director of Dharmanandan Diamonds.
 
20221019_DiaBot.jpg
Multipurpose robot DiaBot needs just one operator and can perform the work of 22 employees.
 
At the forefront of India’s tech revolution is Surat-based Lexus Group, founded in 1992 by its CEO, Utpal Mistry, and his brothers.     
 
The company has invented, patented and launched several high-tech diamond machines. At the core of Lexus Group’s offerings are machines featuring Artificial Intelligence Supported by Human Intelligence, otherwise known as AISHI, and “phygital” technologies, meaning technologies that bridge the gap between the physical and digital worlds. 
 
One of the company’s most recent patented products is the digital adaptive light scope, or DALS, a powerful microscope that offers reflection-free illumination of the stones under it. 
 
There is also Cutwise Live, a small desktop device that lets jewelers examine and compare a diamond’s optical performance under different lighting conditions. 
 
20220919_DALS.jpg
The DALS microscope provides reflection-free illumination to improve human observation and enhance machine vision by removing glares, flickers, over-exposures and reflections.

Using DALS, teams from different locations can exchange ideas by sharing microscope images of rough, semi-polished, or polished diamonds in real time without physically having to send the diamonds from place to place. This facilitates quick decision making.
 
Sales teams also can shoot videos to highlight specific features and share them with their team members or online buyers. 

 Speaking at the Dubai Diamond Conference 2022, Bernold Richerzhagen, CEO of Synova, said the processes of cutting, polishing and grading are getting integrated and fully automated. 
 
Technology has made it possible to produce bigger and better diamonds with the same quality and quantity of rough. And it is now possible to cut and polish diamonds in a single day.
 
Richerzhagen said Synova’s DaVinci Diamond Factory can produce diamonds at the speed of 1 carat per hour of round brilliants as well as fancies and arbitrary shapes. 
 
It is an automated laser cutting and shaping system for diamonds that offers two key advantages. 
 
For one, there is no need for manual polishing skills on a larger scale. 
 
Secondly, by combining several workflows in one machine, production time is substantially reduced. 
 
 
In a bid to increase their share of the diamond value chain, African mining countries have placed restrictions on the export of larger diamonds. They are also investing in diamond polishing facilities to export finished gems instead of rough stones. 
 
That’s why proactive Indian manufacturers are setting up factories in Africa. 
 
Around 20 companies, including some De Beers sightholders, have set up diamond manufacturing facilities in Botswana, a key diamond mining nation. 
 
The Galahad Compass, a revolutionary product developed by Lexus Group, has given the new diamond cutting centers in Botswana, Namibia, Angola and South Africa a huge boost. 
 
In layman’s terms, Galahad Compass is a “3D digital printer for a diamond,” or, to put it another way, a Google Map for diamond polishing where the artisan just aligns two dots—source and destination—to get precise facet angle.
 
It offers digital assistance so that even novice polishers can exactly produce all 57 facets to obtain a higher yield.
 
India’s diamond manufacturing story has evolved from low cost to high-tech in order to survive and thrive in this highly competitive industry.

This story is one of three included in the special India Diamond Report newsletter. The stories are produced  by an independent editor based in India. 
Anil PrabhakarAnil Prabhakar is an industry analyst, journalist and consultant associated with the Jewelry and watch industries.

The Latest

Nest doorbell camera footage of suspect in Nancy Guthrie abduction
CrimeFeb 13, 2026
JSA Offering $10K Reward in Nancy Guthrie Case

Guthrie, the mother of “Today” show host Savannah Guthrie, was abducted just as the Tucson gem shows were starting.

Butterfield Jewelers going out of business sale ad
IndependentsFeb 13, 2026
97-Year-Old New Mexico Jewelry Store To Close

Butterfield Jewelers in Albuquerque, New Mexico, is preparing to close as members of the Butterfield family head into retirement.

Paul Morelli Rosebud Necklace
CollectionsFeb 13, 2026
A ‘Rosebud’ Necklace for Valentine’s Day

Paul Morelli’s “Rosebud” necklace, our Piece of the Week, uses 18-karat rose, green, and white gold to turn the symbol of love into jewelry.

MJSA Apprenticeship Guide
Brought to you by
The MJSA Mentor & Apprenticeship Program: Attracting & Training the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

Launched in 2023, the program will help the passing of knowledge between generations and alleviate the shortage of bench jewelers.

Jewelers for Children
MajorsFeb 13, 2026
JFC Announces New Beneficiaries

The nonprofit has welcomed four new grantees for 2026.

Weekly QuizFeb 12, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Saks Fifth Avenue Club personal styling suite in Austin Texas
MajorsFeb 12, 2026
These 8 Saks Fifth Avenue Stores Are Closing

Parent company Saks Global is also closing nearly all Saks Off 5th locations, a Neiman Marcus store, and 14 personal styling suites.

Tudor Heart pendant on display at British Museum
CollectionsFeb 12, 2026
British Museum Raises $5M to Keep Jewel Linked to Henry VIII, Katherine of Aragon

It is believed the 24-karat heart-shaped enameled pendant was made for an event marking the betrothal of Princess Mary in 1518.

JamAlert 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
How Jewelers Can Fight Back Against Cell Jammers

Criminals are using cell jammers to disable alarms, but new technology like JamAlert™ can stop them.

Kering Logo
Events & AwardsFeb 12, 2026
Kering Opens Entries for 2026 Sustainability-Focused Award

The “Kering Generation Award x Jewelry” returns for its second year with “Second Chance, First Choice” as its theme.

Halle Berry’s vintage diamond and sapphire engagement ring
TrendsFeb 11, 2026
Halle Berry’s Retro Engagement Ring Is a Sapphire-Set Stunner

Sourced by For Future Reference Vintage, the yellow gold ring has a round center stone surrounded by step-cut sapphires.

Francesca’s storefront
MajorsFeb 11, 2026
Francesca’s Files for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy Again

The clothing and accessories chain announced last month it would be closing all of its stores.

Zales x Sweethearts Capsule Collection Heart Charms
CollectionsFeb 11, 2026
Zales Turns Sweethearts Into Jewelry for Valentine’s Day Collection

The “Zales x Sweethearts” collection features three mystery heart charms engraved with classic sayings seen on the Valentine’s Day candies.

2026 Gemvision Symposium
TechnologyFeb 11, 2026
Gemvision Symposium 2026 Slated for April

The event will include panel discussions, hands-on demonstrations of new digital manufacturing tools, and a jewelry design contest.

The Jewelry Symposium
Events & AwardsFeb 11, 2026
TJS Announces Roundtable, Launches New App

Registration is now open for The Jewelry Symposium, set to take place in Detroit from May 16-19.

Bad Bunny Performing Super Bowl LX Halftime Show
TrendsFeb 10, 2026
Bad Bunny Wears Football-Shaped ‘Desert Diamond’ for Halftime Performance

Lady Gaga, Cardi B, and Karol G also went with diamond jewelry for Bad Bunny’s Super Bowl halftime show honoring Puerto Rico.

Miraki Jewels heart diamond signet ring
SurveysFeb 10, 2026
Shoppers to Spend Big on Jewelry This Valentine’s Day, Says NRF

Jewelry is expected to be the No. 1 gift this year in terms of dollars spent.

Pomellato Nudo toi et moi ring
FinancialsFeb 10, 2026
Kering Plans Transformation as 2025 Sales Sink 13%

As star brand Gucci continues to struggle, the luxury titan plans to announce a new roadmap to return to growth.

Stuller color of the year 2026 Signature Red jewelry and gemstones
SourcingFeb 10, 2026
AGTA To Debut ‘Stuller Color of the Year’ Spectrum Awards Category

The new category asks entrants for “exceptional” interpretations of the supplier’s 2026 color of the year, which is “Signature Red.”

Stock image of loose polished diamonds
Policies & IssuesFeb 09, 2026
U.S., India Trade Deal One Step Closer to Being Finalized

The White House issued an official statement on the deal, which will eliminate tariffs on loose natural diamonds and gemstones from India.

CASE Awards Graphic
Events & AwardsFeb 09, 2026
JA Now Accepting Entries for 2026 CASE Awards

Entries for the jewelry design competition will be accepted through March 20.

James Free Jewelers Dayton Ohio store
IndependentsFeb 09, 2026
James Free Jewelers Unveils Revamped Flagship

The Ohio jeweler’s new layout features a curated collection of brand boutiques to promote storytelling and host in-store events.

KIL NYC The Pierced Padlock Wounded
TrendsFeb 09, 2026
These 14 Jewels Will Melt Your Heart This Valentine’s Day

From heart motifs to pink pearls, Valentine’s Day is filled with jewelry imbued with love.

Stock image of a gavel
CrimeFeb 06, 2026
Florida Man Sentenced After Selling Fake Native American Jewelry for a Decade

Prosecutors say the man attended arts and craft fairs claiming he was a third-generation jeweler who was a member of the Pueblo tribe.

Luciano Rodembusch
FinancialsFeb 06, 2026
Pandora’s North America GM Departs Amid Executive Changes

New CEO Berta de Pablos-Barbier shared her priorities for the Danish jewelry company this year as part of its fourth-quarter results.

Cece Jewellery Bespoke Wuthering Heights Signet Rings on Margot Robbie and Jacob Elordi
TrendsFeb 06, 2026
Margot Robbie, Jacob Elordi Wear Matching Cece Jewellery Signet Rings

Our Piece of the Week picks are these bespoke rings the “Wuthering Heights” stars have been spotted wearing during the film’s press tour.

Pandora platinum
MajorsFeb 05, 2026
Pandora to Begin Selling Platinum-Plated Jewelry

The introduction of platinum plating will reduce its reliance on silver amid volatile price swings, said Pandora.

Entrance to the Jwaneng diamond mine in Botswana
SourcingFeb 05, 2026
De Beers Lowers Production Guidance for 2026, Anglo Mulls Another Writedown

It would be the third impairment charge in three years on De Beers Group, which continues to grapple with a “challenging” diamond market.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy