Sourcing

Diamond Manufacturing: India’s Technology Journey

SourcingOct 19, 2022

Diamond Manufacturing: India’s Technology Journey

New supply chain dynamics backed by digitalization, AI, and human capital are changing the economics of the Indian diamond industry.

20221019_Galahad Compass.jpg
Lexus Group’s Galahad Compass is one of the technologies that is helping India’s diamond manufacturing sector to evolve, particularly among Indian manufacturers that are opening factories in Africa.
Surat, India—With 90 percent of the world’s diamonds cut and polished in Surat, India is a global hub for diamond manufacturing. 
 
Traditionally, the diamond industry has followed the trail of low labor costs. 
 
Once upon a time, New York was a major diamond manufacturing center. Lower wage costs in Europe brought the industry to Belgium, followed by Israel and then India. 
 
The processing of diamonds was a slow and expensive process. 
 
Even highly skilled artisans could not avoid waste. The inclusions present in the diamond could not be identified easily, which led to poor quality diamonds.
 
Cutting and polishing was mostly a manual process. 
 
Rudimentary tools, such as a knife and a hammer, were used to break the rough. This was an inefficient process, as it would result in the loss of some pieces of the diamond and, thereby, the loss of potential profits.
 
The emery wheels were hand-operated in those days, which meant the workers would process fewer than three chunks of rough per day.
 
Laser machines brought a revolutionary change to the diamond manufacturing industry. The diamond processing machines provided all the applications, from planning to polishing. These minimized waste as well as scanned the impurities, which boosted the quality of the diamonds.
 
SLTL (Sahajanand Laser Technology Ltd.) Group and Surat-based technology company STPL have been  pioneers in bringing laser technology to India. 
 
In 1992 Arvind Patel, managing director of SLTL Group, set up a factory in Gandhinagar in the state of Gujarat, India, to manufacture laser cutting machines. 
 
He imported a laser machine from a Swiss manufacturer and re-engineered it to launch an Indian version at less than half the price. 
 
SLTL Group provides a one-stop solution for diamond processing, starting from planning and marking, to cleaning or sawing, and bruting and polishing. The measurement of the rough diamond is done by an AI-assisted planning process that provides insights regarding the optimal diamond yield to the user. 
 
About half of the 10,000 diamond processing units in Gujarat using laser cutting machines are based in Surat.
 
Large Indian diamond manufacturers, such as SRK Exports, Karp Group and Hari Krishna Exports, use sophisticated machines made by Switzerland-based Synova that uses an advanced proprietary Laserjet Micro System (LMJ) technology. 
 
LMJ is a hybrid method combining a laser with a hair-thin water jet that precisely guides the laser beam by means of total internal reflection at the water/ air interface. 
 
Synova has set up two micro-machining centers in Surat and Mumbai to better serve their existing customers and to meet growing market demand.
 
There’s also DiaBot, a multipurpose robot from InnovSeed. The robot has “helped us to improve security, efficiency and cost reduction in rough sorting and auto-polishing,” said Vipul Sutaria, director of Dharmanandan Diamonds.
 
20221019_DiaBot.jpg
Multipurpose robot DiaBot needs just one operator and can perform the work of 22 employees.
 
At the forefront of India’s tech revolution is Surat-based Lexus Group, founded in 1992 by its CEO, Utpal Mistry, and his brothers.     
 
The company has invented, patented and launched several high-tech diamond machines. At the core of Lexus Group’s offerings are machines featuring Artificial Intelligence Supported by Human Intelligence, otherwise known as AISHI, and “phygital” technologies, meaning technologies that bridge the gap between the physical and digital worlds. 
 
One of the company’s most recent patented products is the digital adaptive light scope, or DALS, a powerful microscope that offers reflection-free illumination of the stones under it. 
 
There is also Cutwise Live, a small desktop device that lets jewelers examine and compare a diamond’s optical performance under different lighting conditions. 
 
20220919_DALS.jpg
The DALS microscope provides reflection-free illumination to improve human observation and enhance machine vision by removing glares, flickers, over-exposures and reflections.

Using DALS, teams from different locations can exchange ideas by sharing microscope images of rough, semi-polished, or polished diamonds in real time without physically having to send the diamonds from place to place. This facilitates quick decision making.
 
Sales teams also can shoot videos to highlight specific features and share them with their team members or online buyers. 

 Speaking at the Dubai Diamond Conference 2022, Bernold Richerzhagen, CEO of Synova, said the processes of cutting, polishing and grading are getting integrated and fully automated. 
 
Technology has made it possible to produce bigger and better diamonds with the same quality and quantity of rough. And it is now possible to cut and polish diamonds in a single day.
 
Richerzhagen said Synova’s DaVinci Diamond Factory can produce diamonds at the speed of 1 carat per hour of round brilliants as well as fancies and arbitrary shapes. 
 
It is an automated laser cutting and shaping system for diamonds that offers two key advantages. 
 
For one, there is no need for manual polishing skills on a larger scale. 
 
Secondly, by combining several workflows in one machine, production time is substantially reduced. 
 
 
In a bid to increase their share of the diamond value chain, African mining countries have placed restrictions on the export of larger diamonds. They are also investing in diamond polishing facilities to export finished gems instead of rough stones. 
 
That’s why proactive Indian manufacturers are setting up factories in Africa. 
 
Around 20 companies, including some De Beers sightholders, have set up diamond manufacturing facilities in Botswana, a key diamond mining nation. 
 
The Galahad Compass, a revolutionary product developed by Lexus Group, has given the new diamond cutting centers in Botswana, Namibia, Angola and South Africa a huge boost. 
 
In layman’s terms, Galahad Compass is a “3D digital printer for a diamond,” or, to put it another way, a Google Map for diamond polishing where the artisan just aligns two dots—source and destination—to get precise facet angle.
 
It offers digital assistance so that even novice polishers can exactly produce all 57 facets to obtain a higher yield.
 
India’s diamond manufacturing story has evolved from low cost to high-tech in order to survive and thrive in this highly competitive industry.

This story is one of three included in the special India Diamond Report newsletter. The stories are produced  by an independent editor based in India. 
Anil PrabhakarAnil Prabhakar is an industry analyst, journalist and consultant associated with the Jewelry and watch industries.

The Latest

GIA pink CVD diamond
Lab-GrownNov 10, 2026
GIA Examines Pink Lab-Grown Diamond Made to Look Natural

The 6-carat CVD-grown pink diamond was “deliberately modified” to mimic the appearance of a natural rough diamond, the lab said.

Emmanuel Raheb, CEO of Smart Age Solutions
ColumnistsNov 10, 2026
Who Checks the Facts When AI Writes Your Jewelry Copy?

An incorrect AI-generated ad or product description can cost your store valuable consumer trust.

Gem Awards Gala 2026
Events & AwardsNov 09, 2026
Here Are the 2027 Gem Award Nominees

These nine individuals and brands are up for a Gem Award in the Jewelry Design, Media Excellence, and Retail Innovation categories.

dsf antique jewelry ceylon intaglio sapphire .jpg
Brought to you by
DSF Antique Jewelry: Fine Jewelry, Signed Designers, and a World of Rare Discoveries

With over 50 years experience in the trade, DSF Antique Jewelry offers quality, craftsmanship, condition, and remarkable variety.

Stock image of crime scene tape
CrimeNov 09, 2026
Jeweler Pistol-Whipped, $900K in Jewelry Stolen During Home Invasion

The incident, which happened in Miami-Dade County, serves as a reminder to jewelers of the dangers of selling and storing jewelry at home.

Weekly QuizNov 05, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Tourmaline inclusion in muscovite mica
GradingNov 09, 2026
GIA Acquires Thousands of Gem Specimens With ‘Extraordinary’ Inclusions

GIA Analytical Microscopist John Koivula curated the collection of 2,665 crystals, gems, and minerals over a 60-year span.

 Bibi van der Velden Eclipse Campaign Imagery
CollectionsNov 09, 2026
Bibi van der Velden’s Alligators Become High Jewelry

The “Eclipse” collection, the brand’s first high jewelry line, centers its alligator motif in diamond and spinel jewels.

overnight btyb 1026.png
Brought to you by
How Overnight Mountings’ Bridal Builder Makes Custom Engagement Ring Design Easier to Sell

With customization becoming more expected in engagement ring shopping, the Bridal Builder makes the process tangible.

Daughters of the Deep indicolite earrings
EditorsNov 06, 2026
The Spectrum Pieces I Can’t Stop Thinking About

From a Betta fish brooch to a “dragon’s trove” of zircon eggs, here are seven pieces that’ve stuck with Associate Editor Lauren McLemore.

Pat Pruitt Dragonfly Earrings
TrendsNov 06, 2026
Pat Pruitt’s DragonFly Earrings Take Flight on Election Night

Groundbreaking New Mexico Governor-elect Deb Haaland wore the earrings, our Piece of the Week, when she declared victory on Tuesday.

Colin Jost in Kay Jewelers holiday ad
MajorsNov 06, 2026
SNL’s Colin Jost Finds the Perfect Gift in Kay Jewelers’ Holiday Ad

Jost goes on an epic journey, traversing rough seas and encountering a cyclops, to discover the perfect holiday gift.

GCAL 8X_NJSB_1.jpg
Supplier BulletinNov 05, 2026
Winning With GCAL 8X®: What’s Working at the Counter

Sponsored by GCAL by Sarine

Wrapped holiday gift boxes
SurveysNov 05, 2026
What Retailers Should Know About Holiday Shoppers This Year

From shrinking budgets to AI elves, here are five takeaways from holiday reports by Bain, Adobe, Mastercard, NRF, and insights from YouGov.

Little Pet Portrait Pendants by Russell Jones & Judi Powers
CollectionsNov 05, 2026
Judi Powers, Russell Jones Unleash Joy With New Collaboration

The designers combined their talents for Little Pet Portraits, hand-painted miniatures of our best friends set in a piece of jewelry.

Brilliant Earth Elizabeth Taylor jewelry
FinancialsNov 05, 2026
Brilliant Earth Continued to Resonate With High-Income Shoppers in Q3

Its non-bridal fine jewelry remains the star of the show, recently launching new collections inspired by Elizabeth Taylor and Jane Goodall.

Swarovski Joy: The Swarovski Musical Campaign with Ariana Grande
MajorsNov 05, 2026
Ariana Grande Stars In Swarovski’s Holiday Campaign

“Joy: The Swarovski Musical” features Ariana Grande as the leading lady in scenes inspired by classic musical montages.

GIA logo
GradingNov 05, 2026
GIA to Offer Next-Day Holiday Services

The lab will bring back its complimentary next-day service for some reports starting next week.

Cartier bracelet and ring
CrimeNov 04, 2026
$250K+ in Undeclared Cartier Jewelry Seized at Philadelphia Airport

A Pennsylvania woman failed to declare a ring and a bracelet, discarding the boxes and receipts to conceal the purchases, officials said.

Pandora celestial chandelier earrings
FinancialsNov 04, 2026
Pandora’s Q3 Sales Up 7% Amid Focus on Design

New collections and relevant marketing pushed the company forward, while Pandora’s lab-grown diamond sales continue to lag.

NYC Jewelry Week Biolgems Jewelry Exhibition
Events & AwardsNov 04, 2026
NYC Jewelry Week 2026 Is the Largest Edition Yet

The citywide celebration, slated for Nov. 16-22, is set to host more than 175 events, including live jewelry-making demos.

Lanessa Elrod
MajorsNov 04, 2026
Bergdorf Goodman Names New President

Lanessa Elrod, former president and CEO of Louis Vuitton Americas, has stepped into the role as the retailer celebrates 125 years.

Replica of Infinity Gauntlet
AuctionsNov 03, 2026
Infinity Gauntlet Set With 170+ Carats of Colored Gemstones Up for Auction

A replica of one of the most powerful objects in the Marvel Cinematic Universe, the glove is heading to auction next month in Abu Dhabi.

Arthur Klein
IndependentsNov 03, 2026
Longtime Jewelry Marketer Arthur Klein Dies at 89

Klein, who had his own marketing agency and worked for Gabriel & Co. and Trans American Diamond, is remembered as a kind man.

Zadok Jewelers
IndependentsNov 03, 2026
Zadok Jewelers Toasts To 50 Years With Diamond Bracelet Giveaway

To enter the giveaway, locals can purchase a featured beverage from one of eight participating restaurants in Houston and Austin, Texas.

David Yurman Gem Awards Grant 2027 Graphic
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2026
David Yurman Gem Awards Grant Opens 2027 Applications

The grant recipient will be awarded $50,000 as well as mentoring meetings with executives at David Yurman and other industry executives.

Kirstin Viland, Joanna Kovacs, Shari Lukacs
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2026
NAJA, Instappraise Name 2026 Scholarship Winners

The winners include a non-NAJA member seeking training, a member beginning NAJA courses, and a member becoming a Certified Master Appraiser.

Sothebys Romanov sapphire
AuctionsNov 02, 2026
197-Carat ‘Romanov Sapphire’ Heads to Sotheby’s Geneva

The rare jewel, which has links to Russia’s Romanov dynasty, is estimated to fetch up to $2 million.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy