Sourcing

Diamond Manufacturing: India’s Technology Journey

SourcingOct 19, 2022

Diamond Manufacturing: India’s Technology Journey

New supply chain dynamics backed by digitalization, AI, and human capital are changing the economics of the Indian diamond industry.

20221019_Galahad Compass.jpg
Lexus Group’s Galahad Compass is one of the technologies that is helping India’s diamond manufacturing sector to evolve, particularly among Indian manufacturers that are opening factories in Africa.
Surat, India—With 90 percent of the world’s diamonds cut and polished in Surat, India is a global hub for diamond manufacturing. 
 
Traditionally, the diamond industry has followed the trail of low labor costs. 
 
Once upon a time, New York was a major diamond manufacturing center. Lower wage costs in Europe brought the industry to Belgium, followed by Israel and then India. 
 
The processing of diamonds was a slow and expensive process. 
 
Even highly skilled artisans could not avoid waste. The inclusions present in the diamond could not be identified easily, which led to poor quality diamonds.
 
Cutting and polishing was mostly a manual process. 
 
Rudimentary tools, such as a knife and a hammer, were used to break the rough. This was an inefficient process, as it would result in the loss of some pieces of the diamond and, thereby, the loss of potential profits.
 
The emery wheels were hand-operated in those days, which meant the workers would process fewer than three chunks of rough per day.
 
Laser machines brought a revolutionary change to the diamond manufacturing industry. The diamond processing machines provided all the applications, from planning to polishing. These minimized waste as well as scanned the impurities, which boosted the quality of the diamonds.
 
SLTL (Sahajanand Laser Technology Ltd.) Group and Surat-based technology company STPL have been  pioneers in bringing laser technology to India. 
 
In 1992 Arvind Patel, managing director of SLTL Group, set up a factory in Gandhinagar in the state of Gujarat, India, to manufacture laser cutting machines. 
 
He imported a laser machine from a Swiss manufacturer and re-engineered it to launch an Indian version at less than half the price. 
 
SLTL Group provides a one-stop solution for diamond processing, starting from planning and marking, to cleaning or sawing, and bruting and polishing. The measurement of the rough diamond is done by an AI-assisted planning process that provides insights regarding the optimal diamond yield to the user. 
 
About half of the 10,000 diamond processing units in Gujarat using laser cutting machines are based in Surat.
 
Large Indian diamond manufacturers, such as SRK Exports, Karp Group and Hari Krishna Exports, use sophisticated machines made by Switzerland-based Synova that uses an advanced proprietary Laserjet Micro System (LMJ) technology. 
 
LMJ is a hybrid method combining a laser with a hair-thin water jet that precisely guides the laser beam by means of total internal reflection at the water/ air interface. 
 
Synova has set up two micro-machining centers in Surat and Mumbai to better serve their existing customers and to meet growing market demand.
 
There’s also DiaBot, a multipurpose robot from InnovSeed. The robot has “helped us to improve security, efficiency and cost reduction in rough sorting and auto-polishing,” said Vipul Sutaria, director of Dharmanandan Diamonds.
 
20221019_DiaBot.jpg
Multipurpose robot DiaBot needs just one operator and can perform the work of 22 employees.
 
At the forefront of India’s tech revolution is Surat-based Lexus Group, founded in 1992 by its CEO, Utpal Mistry, and his brothers.     
 
The company has invented, patented and launched several high-tech diamond machines. At the core of Lexus Group’s offerings are machines featuring Artificial Intelligence Supported by Human Intelligence, otherwise known as AISHI, and “phygital” technologies, meaning technologies that bridge the gap between the physical and digital worlds. 
 
One of the company’s most recent patented products is the digital adaptive light scope, or DALS, a powerful microscope that offers reflection-free illumination of the stones under it. 
 
There is also Cutwise Live, a small desktop device that lets jewelers examine and compare a diamond’s optical performance under different lighting conditions. 
 
20220919_DALS.jpg
The DALS microscope provides reflection-free illumination to improve human observation and enhance machine vision by removing glares, flickers, over-exposures and reflections.

Using DALS, teams from different locations can exchange ideas by sharing microscope images of rough, semi-polished, or polished diamonds in real time without physically having to send the diamonds from place to place. This facilitates quick decision making.
 
Sales teams also can shoot videos to highlight specific features and share them with their team members or online buyers. 

 Speaking at the Dubai Diamond Conference 2022, Bernold Richerzhagen, CEO of Synova, said the processes of cutting, polishing and grading are getting integrated and fully automated. 
 
Technology has made it possible to produce bigger and better diamonds with the same quality and quantity of rough. And it is now possible to cut and polish diamonds in a single day.
 
Richerzhagen said Synova’s DaVinci Diamond Factory can produce diamonds at the speed of 1 carat per hour of round brilliants as well as fancies and arbitrary shapes. 
 
It is an automated laser cutting and shaping system for diamonds that offers two key advantages. 
 
For one, there is no need for manual polishing skills on a larger scale. 
 
Secondly, by combining several workflows in one machine, production time is substantially reduced. 
 
 
In a bid to increase their share of the diamond value chain, African mining countries have placed restrictions on the export of larger diamonds. They are also investing in diamond polishing facilities to export finished gems instead of rough stones. 
 
That’s why proactive Indian manufacturers are setting up factories in Africa. 
 
Around 20 companies, including some De Beers sightholders, have set up diamond manufacturing facilities in Botswana, a key diamond mining nation. 
 
The Galahad Compass, a revolutionary product developed by Lexus Group, has given the new diamond cutting centers in Botswana, Namibia, Angola and South Africa a huge boost. 
 
In layman’s terms, Galahad Compass is a “3D digital printer for a diamond,” or, to put it another way, a Google Map for diamond polishing where the artisan just aligns two dots—source and destination—to get precise facet angle.
 
It offers digital assistance so that even novice polishers can exactly produce all 57 facets to obtain a higher yield.
 
India’s diamond manufacturing story has evolved from low cost to high-tech in order to survive and thrive in this highly competitive industry.

This story is one of three included in the special India Diamond Report newsletter. The stories are produced  by an independent editor based in India. 
Anil PrabhakarAnil Prabhakar is an industry analyst, journalist and consultant associated with the Jewelry and watch industries.

The Latest

Cartoon witch and black cat with cauldron and jewelry in bubbles
EditorsOct 24, 2024
From a Witch to Wednesday: The Best Jewelry to Wear With Your Halloween Costume

For her annual Halloween story, Associate Editor Lenore Fedow pairs fine jewelry with classic and contemporary Halloween costumes.

Jewelry from Boucheron
FinancialsOct 24, 2024
Kering’s Jewelry Brands ‘More Resilient’ Than Other Luxury Goods in Q3

Sales fell 15 percent for the luxury conglomerate in the third quarter, led by a 26 percent drop in sales for flagship brand Gucci.

JA Show entrance
Events & AwardsOct 24, 2024
JA New York Fall Show Announces Education Lineup

The education offerings include a diamond cutting demonstration, a session with JVC President Sara Yood, and a seminar on AI.

Jewelers Mutual Group Cybersecurity
Brought to you by
Navigating Cybersecurity: Essential Guidance for Jewelers

From protecting customer data to safeguarding inventory records, it's crucial to learn how to tackle cybersecurity challenges.

Phillip Gavriel 2024-2025 Catalog
MajorsOct 24, 2024
Phillip Gavriel Releases 2024-2025 Catalog

The book features new styles and revived favorites.

Weekly QuizOct 24, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Pnina Tornai New York Bridal Fashion Week
EditorsOct 23, 2024
The Modern Bride’s Approach to Wedding-Day Jewelry

Editor Lauren McLemore immersed herself in New York Bridal Fashion Week to better understand the role fine jewelry plays on the big day.

Constance Polamalu
Lab-GrownOct 23, 2024
Q&A: Constance Polamalu on Selling Natural and Lab-Grown Diamonds

The jeweler shared her change of heart on lab-grown diamonds and why she keeps them separate from natural diamonds in her business ventures.

Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Enhance Your Expertise with IGI’s In-Person Courses in NYC

This fall, sharpen your skills in jewelry grading, quality control and diamond assessment.

Jade Trau and Harrods pop-up shop
IndependentsOct 23, 2024
Jade Trau Sails Overseas

The New York-based brand is expanding outside of the U.S., with a pop-up shop in London and plans to distribute internationally.

20241023_Bruce Wayne Kryptonite header 1.jpg
CollectionsOct 23, 2024
See Scott West Jewelry’s ‘Kryptonite’ and ‘Joker’ Rings

They’re available through a retailer that sells luxury products inspired by the lifestyle of Batman’s billionaire civilian persona.

Timex Waterbury 170th anniversary edition watch
WatchesOct 23, 2024
How to Get a Timex Watch for $1

The watchmaker is selling 1,000 “Waterbury” watches for $1 each in celebration of its 170th anniversary.

Model wearing Daystar earrings and Ouche necklace
CollectionsOct 23, 2024
Robinson Pelham Releases New Jewels Just in Time for the Holidays

The new “Ouche” collection brings sculptural designs to the brand, while the expanded “Daystar” collection brings a rainbow of colors.

17.97-Carat Burmese Ruby Diamond Ring
AuctionsOct 22, 2024
Phillips to Auction Rare 18-Carat Burmese Ruby

The auction house said the gemstone could fetch up to $5.5 million at next month’s sale.

National Jeweler columnist Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsOct 22, 2024
The Smart Lab: Tips for Preparing for Your Best Q4 Yet

From prioritizing the customer experience to optimizing inventory, columnist Emmanuel Raheb shares the keys to a successful holiday season.

Priya Raj
Events & AwardsOct 22, 2024
WJA Foundation Names First Winner of Hedda Schupak Scholarship

Journalist Priya Raj plans to use the scholarship funds to further her media qualifications and amplify marginalized communities.

WNBA Finals Championship trophy and Tiffany & Co. basketball
MajorsOct 22, 2024
WNBA Champions New York Liberty Take Home Tiffany & Co. Trophy

It marks the first championship win in the team’s 28-year history.

Sissy’s Log Cabin Fort Smith Arkansas
IndependentsOct 22, 2024
Sissy’s Log Cabin To Open Seventh Store

The Arkansas-based jeweler’s first store in the state’s northwest region is set to open next year.

Stock image of rough diamonds
SourcingOct 21, 2024
De Beers to List Single Country of Origin for Some of Its Diamonds

It will start with rough diamonds that are larger than 1.25 carats and later expand to rough diamonds that are above 1 carat.

Pandora Stranger Things campaign
CollectionsOct 21, 2024
Pandora Turns Things Upside Down in New ‘Stranger Things’ Collection

The capsule collection is inspired by friendship and connection, with a nod to ‘80s fashion.

Babe Paley’s Clip-Brooch Necklace
AuctionsOct 18, 2024
Piece of the Week: Babe Paley’s Clip-Brooch Necklace

The New York socialite’s elegant, transformable piece from the 1960s is headed to auction later this month.

20241018_Appraising lab grown diamonds webinar.jpg
Recorded WebinarsOct 18, 2024
Watch: 2 Experts on the Challenges of Appraising Lab-Grown Diamonds

Texas jeweler Susan Eisen and NAJA’s Gail Brett Levine discuss how lab-grown diamonds have altered the landscape for jewelry appraisers.

Retiring JSA President John Kennedy
CrimeOct 18, 2024
The End of an Era: John Kennedy Reflects On 32 Years at JSA

On the verge of retirement, Kennedy recounts the most stressful stretch of his time at JSA and reveals what he’ll miss about the industry.

Signet Jewelers CEO Gina Drosos
MajorsOct 17, 2024
Retailer Hall of Fame 2024: Gina Drosos

Signet Jewelers CEO Gina Drosos’ secrets to success are listening to her team and leaning on data to make decisions.

Shirley Bassey’s Cartier Baignoire watch
AuctionsOct 17, 2024
Shirley Bassey’s ‘Baignoire’ Breaks Auction Record

Part of the Welsh singer’s extensive jewelry collection, the bathtub-shaped Cartier watch went for nearly $72,000 at Sotheby’s Paris.

Alan Hodgkinson
GradingOct 17, 2024
Renowned Gemologist and Author Alan Hodgkinson Dies at 87

He dedicated his life to researching, writing, and speaking about gemstones in the hope he could inspire others to share his passion.

Ethical Gem Fair Brooklyn
Policies & IssuesOct 17, 2024
Ethical Gem Fair Returns to Brooklyn

The event is slated for Oct. 17-19.

Travelers on Gem Legacy Adventures Trip
SourcingOct 17, 2024
Gem Legacy Adventures Announces 2025 Trip

12 spots are available for travelers to visit Northern Tanzania and Southern Kenya from July 25 to Aug. 4.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy