Editors

Take a Tour Through Buccellati’s Vintage Jewelry Collection

EditorsAug 10, 2022

Take a Tour Through Buccellati’s Vintage Jewelry Collection

Associate Editor Lenore Fedow leads readers through the Italian jeweler’s works from the 1940s to the 2000s.

20220810_Buccellati header.jpg
This 1950s “Profondo Blu” cocktail ring circa the 1950s is part of Buccellati’s 37-piece Vintage collection, on display now in select locations worldwide.
Tickets, please!

I’d like to welcome you to a guided tour of six decades of jewelry from storied Italian brand Buccellati.

The company was founded in Milan in 1919 by Mario Buccellati, known lovingly as the “Prince of Goldsmiths.”

The company, which is now owned by luxury titan Richemont, remained a family affair for decades.

Each generation made its mark on the business, from Mario’s son, Gianmaria, to his grandson, Andrea. His great-granddaughter, Lucrezia Buccellati, is currently a creative director.

The Milanese brand is known for its unique yet understated styles, taking inspiration from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance.

Buccellati recently debuted a 37-piece Vintage collection at Paris Haute Couture, showcasing jewels from the 1940s to the 2000s.

The pieces will be available for sale at select boutiques around the world, including Milan, Rome, Paris, London, New York, and Los Angeles.

The jewels will be sold in their own period cases, when possible, with a certificate of guarantee, including an image of the product and copy of its original design.

You don’t have to be a globetrotter to see them, because I’m giving you a tour here.

The 1940s

We’re starting off in the 1940s.

Winston Churchill was the prime minister of Britain, the North Atlantic Treaty Organization was formed, and Jackie Robinson hit his first baseball as a major league player.

The artisans at Buccellati were hard at work, recreating this intricate “Forget-Me-Not” brooch, or as the Italians say, “Non ti scordar di me.”

(Italian is my second language, and not one I use often, so I’ll be making the most of it throughout this tour.)

20220810_1-Buccellati.jpg
The circa 1940s “Non ti scordar di me” brooch

The “forget-me-not” flower is symbolic of faithfulness and eternal love.

You’ll find nature motifs, flowers especially, repeated often through Buccellati’s jewels.

“Expressed in various gold and gem colors, ramage motifs [branches] are a recurring and distinctive element in the maison’s work,” Buccellati said.

This silver rectangular brooch is lined with gold, the edges set with 146 rose-cut diamonds, weighing in at 1.50 carats.

The inner leaves of the branch are also set with eight rose-cut diamonds, weighing 5 carats total, and eight leaf-cut and engraved sapphires, weighing a total of 10 carats.

The 1950s

Our next stop is the 1950s.

I’m a big fan of the styles from this decade, from the casual cool of a greaser to the chic rockabilly look.

This “Profondo Blu” cocktail ring would’ve been a showstopper at the sock hop.

20220810_2-Buccellati.jpg
The “Profondo Blu” cocktail ring, circa the 1950s

“The tradition of cocktail rings at Buccellati began years ago. It was born out of the desire to make uniquely shaped gems come to life, so that they could shine and reveal their full beauty,” the company said.

“Profondo” means deep, and the inspiration for this ring is the feeling of standing on the edge of a cliff and gazing down into the deep blue sea below.

The 10-carat cushion-cut blue sapphire is the sea while the white gold and diamond details are the rippling waves.

It features 10 brilliant-cut diamonds, weighing in at 1.2 carats, and 20 eight-cut diamonds, with a total carat weight of 0.30.

The 1960s

Here we are in the 1960s, and the cocktail rings are coming with us.

The 1960s was a tumultuous decade, marked by the Vietnam War and the civil rights movement, as well as Woodstock and the moon landing.

It was a time for boldness, in action and in style, and these rings deliver.

The “Laguna” cocktail ring is another piece inspired by water, this time the calm stillness of a lagoon.

20220810_3-Buccellati.jpg
The “Laguna” cocktail ring, circa the 1960s, is “an homage to opulence and precious workmanship,” said Buccellati.

In the center is a 22-carat cushion-cut peridot, surrounded by a “modellato,” or molded, engraved white gold bezel. “Modellato” is one of a few signature engraving techniques unique to the brand.

Encircling the bezel are 36 brilliant-cut diamonds, weighing a total of 0.70 carats, spread out into triangular white gold points.

On the yellow “rigato” stem, a term that means striped or streaky, are rosette motifs. “Rigato” is another of its unique engraving techniques, found in several Buccellati pieces.

This next cocktail ring is in the running to be my favorite of the entire Vintage collection.

Maybe it’s because I love fall, or because citrine is my birthstone, but more likely because it’s just a breathtaking piece of wearable art.

20220810_4-Buccellati.jpg
The “Foglie D’Autunno” cocktail ring, circa the 1960s, features a 20-carat faceted oval-cut citrine.

The “Foglie D’Autunno” cocktail ring, meaning fall leaves, encapsulates the season perfectly, from the warmth of the 20-carat faceted oval citrine to the intricately engraved yellow gold leaves that surround it.

“The piece seems almost to breathe in the scent of wet leaves fallen from trees,” said Buccellati.

The 1970s

Next up is the 1970s.

The Vietnam War is still going on, to the dismay of many, and the fight for equality continues, particularly among women.

Disco is alive and well and the now-classic rock bands, like Van Halen and Queen, are newbies.

As more women headed to work, Diane von Furstenberg introduced the wrap dress, a personal favorite of mine.

Style absorbs everything, and fashion impacts jewelry, so the artisans at Buccellati were busy at work trying to capture it all.

There were several pieces I could’ve chosen from this decade, but I’ll share two favorites.

20220810_5-Buccellati.jpg
The “Isola” ring, circa the 1970s

The “Isola” ring is a perfect example of Buccellati’s tulle technique.

It’s a brand classic, said the company, but it has been interpreted differently by each generation of artists.

Gianmaria Buccellati, the founder’s son, put his own spin on the technical motif, making the tulle framework larger but lighter.

The center stone, a 2.80-carat old-cut piqué diamond, appears to float on the white gold tulle lace, set with 57 round brilliant-cut diamonds, weighing a total of 0.80 carats.

The next on display is the “Purezza” parure, meaning purity.

20220810_6-Buccellati.jpg
The “Purezza” parure, circa 1973-1974, is set with four “Mari del Sud” baroque pearls.

Buccellati’s artisans are skilled engravers, made apparent by this stunning set.

“Its soft yellow gold lines with rigato engraving, along with mischievous curls replete with diamonds, light up and brighten the overall vision of the piece,” said Buccellati.

The set features four “Mari del Sud” baroque pearls, for a total weight of 82.7 carats.

The necklace is set with 322 brilliant-cut diamonds, weighing a total of 4.30 carats, while the earrings feature 326 brilliant cut-diamonds, weighing a total of 3.96 carats.

The 1980s

We’ve made it to the 1980s, and Buccellati has some more colorful pieces for us to see.

This was the decade of the Cold War and Reaganomics, but there was also a lot of fun to be had, especially in terms of fashion.

That bright, bold, geometric style that found its way onto neon Lycra and colorful windbreakers is an extension of the Memphis Design movement, which actually has its roots in Buccellati’s home city of Milan.

The “Armonia Geometrica” ring, or geometric harmony, encapsulates that vibe perfectly.

20220810_7-Buccellati.jpg
The “Armonia Geometrica” ring, circa 1988

The face of the ring is square, crafted using openworked yellow gold, topped with several white gold diamond bezels.

In the center sits a 1.06-carat oval ruby, surrounded by 24 brilliant-cut diamonds, with a total carat weight of 0.95 carats.

The shank features white gold side bands and an engraved yellow gold center band.

“Nothing is more fascinating than opposing geometries which combine perfectly and sublimate aesthetics,” said Buccellati.

Moving on to our next piece!

If you think of movies and the 1980s, you might be thinking “The Breakfast Club,” “Ferris Bueller’s Day Off,” or any other John Hughes classic.

With this next piece, Buccellati was thinking of the 1939 film “Gone With the Wind,” which was set in the 1860s. Go figure.

20220810_8-Buccellati.jpg
The “Via Col Vento” necklace, circa 1988, is inspired by the 1939 classic “Gone With the Wind.”

The “Via Col Vento” necklace, meaning “gone with the wind,” was modeled after the flouncy skirts worn by Rossella O’Hara, better known to American audiences as Scarlett O’Hara.

Buccellati described the necklace as “a dip in the Victorian era and in the clothes that were the maximum expression of 19th-century femininity, here recalled with their flounces and their crinolines, especially those between the ‘60s and ‘70s with the apotheosis [apex] of skirts.”

The necklace features 423 cabochon sapphires, weighing a total of 200.63 carats, strung into five strands.

The sapphire strands are bunched together to mimic a voluminous skirt, tied with eight yellow gold bows, set with 474 brilliant-cut diamonds, weighing a total of 3.40 carats.

 Related stories will be right here … 

The 1990s

We’ve made it to the second-to-last stop on the tour, the 1990s, the decade that brought us the rise of the internet, the launch of the Hubble Space Telescope, and me, three equally important events.

The bright and bold fashion of the 1980s led into a decidedly low-maintenance 1990s look, think silky slip dresses or logo tees and biker shorts.

Buccellati is a master at understated styles, and the pieces from this decade portray that perfectly.

This “Arazzo” brooch, meaning tapestry, was, like myself, introduced in 1994.

20220810_9-Buccellati.jpg
This “Arazzo” brooch, circa 1994, features a 6.76-carat emerald.

The rectangular yellow gold brooch mimics the intricate weavings of a fine tapestry, featuring the brand’s signature openwork style and eye for geometric patterns.

It was modeled after a kilim rug, a colorful, flat-woven Turkish style of rug.

A 6.76-carat emerald sits in the middle, surrounded by 152 brilliant-cut diamonds, weighing a total of 3.88 carats.

In addition to its masterful goldwork, Buccellati is known for choosing unique, precious stones to showcase.

The center stone in this “Rosa Dei Venti,” or wind rose, is a 5.50-carat sinhalite, a stone I had never heard of before this.

It takes its name from “Sinhala,” the Sanskrit name for Sri Lanka, explained Buccellati.

20220810_10-Buccellati.jpg
The “Rosa Dei Venti” necklace, circa 1999

I also learned that a wind rose is a geographical tool that shows, in one of its simplest forms, which directions the eight major winds are blowing.

There are three rounds of eight tips, the first set with 44 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.35 ctw), the second with 96 rubies (1.19 ctw), and the outermost set with 72 sapphires (1.28 ctw).

The eight tips have rouches-molded, meaning ruched, yellow gold borders.

The white gold “Chiodino” chain, meaning nail, is linked to the pendant by a brilliant-cut diamond.

“The ‘Rosa dei Venti’ brooch represents the balance between the self and the outside. At the same time, it symbolizes the freedom to follow one’s dreams and wishes,” said Buccellati.

The 2000s

We’ve made it to the last stop of the tour, the 2000s.

I see a few hands raised. Yes, jewelry from the 2000s is now vintage because that was more than 20 years ago.

There was a lot going on in the 2000s, from the tragedies of 9/11 and Hurricane Katrina to the first iPhone and the election of Barack Obama, the country’s first Black president.

Stylistically, the decade’s fashion was just as busy, from Von Dutch trucker hats to Juicy Couture tracksuits.

The looks were fun, and Y2K fashion is back in a big way, but they weren’t necessarily as glamorous as some past eras.

Buccellati, however, is always up to the task of classing up the place, reimagining that bold, colorful style into something elegant.

The first piece we’ll look at is the “Lamponi e Sottobosco” necklace, meaning raspberries and undergrowth. (It sounds better in Italian.)

20220810_11-Buccellati.jpg
The “Lamponi e Sottobosco” necklace, circa 2002

The necklace uses 14 cabochon rubies (20.20 ctw) in place of raspberries, set in round white gold “Modellato” bezels, surrounded by an undergrowth of yellow gold leaves, set with 266 brilliant-cut diamonds (3.62 ctw).

The piece showcases the brand’s unique “segrinato” engraving style, characterized by overlapping lines, to create realistic yellow-gold leaves with polished white gold veins set with diamonds and vice versa for an alternating look.

The necklace is set with 266 brilliant-cut diamonds, weighing a total of 3.62 carats.

Next is this deep light blue cuff bracelet, a showstopper if I’ve ever seen one.

20220810_12-Buccellati.jpg
This cuff bracelet, circa 2002, is set with a 74.25-carat carré aquamarine.

“Creativity is taken to the extreme in this cuff bracelet,” said Buccellati.

It once again employs the “segrinato” engraving technique, seen in the intricate detailing of the leaves.

Similar to the previous necklace, each yellow gold leaf has a central vein in white gold and diamonds.

The center stone is a 74.25-carat carré aquamarine, surrounded by 98 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.32 ctw).

We’re at the end of our Buccellati tour. 

It’s given me a greater appreciation for the craftsmanship behind the art and a better understanding of what inspires Buccellati’s artisans.

I hope you’ve enjoyed the journey alongside me. 

Please proceed through the National Jeweler gift shop.

The Latest

Lugano Diamonds store in Greenwich, Connecticut
IndependentsMay 09, 2025
Lugano Diamonds CEO Resigns Amid Internal Investigation

Moti Ferder stepped down Wednesday and will not receive any severance pay, parent company Compass Diversified said.

Coeur Percé Scapular Necklace and Love Baby Locket
CollectionsMay 09, 2025
Pieces of the Week: Marie Lichtenberg’s Collaborations for Mother’s Day

Lichtenberg partnered with luxury platform Mytheresa on two designs honoring the connection between mothers and daughters.

Gemfields emeralds
SourcingMay 09, 2025
Gemfields Resumes Emerald Mining in Zambia

The miner announced plans to recommence open-pit mining at Kagem.

antique_Vegas_2024_by_headshot_stories_9454.jpg
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the Globe

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Stock image of a man’s hands in handcuffs
CrimeMay 08, 2025
Former NYC Jewelry Store Employee Arrested in 2017 Choking Death of Boss

Michel Desalles allegedly murdered Omid Gholian inside World of Gold N Diamond using zip ties and then fled the country.

Weekly QuizMay 08, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
instappraise-1.png
Supplier BulletinMay 08, 2025
Instappraise Introduces Game-Changing Trifold Appraisal Format

Sponsored by Instappraise

Brilliant Earth three stone Sabine diamond engagement ring
FinancialsMay 08, 2025
Brilliant Earth Notes an Uptick in Engagement Ring Sales in Q1

CEO Beth Gerstein discussed the company’s bridal bestsellers, the potential impact of tariffs, and the rising price of gold.

Supplier Spotlight -Recorded-Webinar.png
Brought to you by
Watch: The Winston Red: GIA Examines the Smithsonian’s Newest Addition

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA

Exterior of Margot McKinney Beverly Hills Location
IndependentsMay 08, 2025
Margot McKinney Lands in the U.S. With New Boutique

The brand’s first independent location outside of Australia has opened in Beverly Hills, California.

Cathy Marsh
IndependentsMay 08, 2025
Verragio Announces New Regional Sales Manager

Cathy Marsh will lead the jewelry company’s efforts in the upper Midwest and western United States.

Pandora gold and silver charm bracelet
FinancialsMay 07, 2025
Pandora Posts Strong Q1, Plans for Tariffs

The company has multiple strategies for dealing with tariffs, though its CEO said moving manufacturing to the U.S. is not one of them.

Headshot of Smart Age Solutions CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsMay 07, 2025
The Smart Lab: Building a Seasonal Marketing Strategy for Mother’s Day and Beyond

Connecting with your customers throughout the year is key to a successful holiday marketing push.

Gemfields rough emeralds
SourcingMay 07, 2025
Gemfields Says Emerald Sales Improved in Latest Auction

Its commercial-quality emerald sale held last month totaled more than $16 million, up from about $11 million in September 2024.

Logo for “In the Loupe,” Punchmark’s podcast
TechnologyMay 07, 2025
Punchmark’s Latest Podcast Features a Very Special Guest

National Jeweler Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff joined Michael Burpoe to talk tariffs, consumer confidence, and the sky-high price of gold.

Harwell Godfrey Met Gala brooch with Mediterranean Blue diamond
AuctionsMay 06, 2025
Harwell Godfrey Reimagines 10-Carat Blue Diamond for Met Gala-Ready Brooch

Designer Lauren Harwell Godfrey made the piece as an homage to the 2025 gala’s theme, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.”

Jewelers of America 20 Under 40 for 2025
Events & AwardsMay 06, 2025
Here’s Who Made Jewelers of America’s New ‘20 Under 40’ List

Expanded this year to include suppliers, JA’s 2025 list honors 40 up-and-coming professionals in the jewelry industry.

Sissys Log Cabin Fort Smith Arkansas
IndependentsMay 06, 2025
Sissy's Log Cabin Opens New Store

Located in Fort Smith, it’s the Mid-South jeweler’s first store in Northwest Arkansas.

Gunderson’s Jewelers
IndependentsMay 06, 2025
Gunderson’s Jewelers to Be Featured on ‘World’s Greatest’ TV Series

The episode about the family-owned jeweler will premiere May 17.

Zadok Jewelers Austin store
IndependentsMay 05, 2025
Zadok Jewelers Opens Store in Austin

The Houston-based jeweler’s new 11,000-square-foot showroom will include a Rolex boutique.

Nancy Astor Cartier turquoise and diamond tiara
AuctionsMay 05, 2025
Nancy Astor’s Cartier Tiara Heads to Auction

The turquoise and diamond tiara hasn’t been on the market since it was purchased by Lord Astor in 1930.

David DeCook Crater of Diamonds State Park 3.81-carat brown Duke Diamond
SourcingMay 05, 2025
Crater of Diamonds Yields 4-Carat Brown Diamond

“The Duke Diamond” is the largest diamond registered at the Arkansas park so far this year.

Kraft Mac & Cheese x Ring Concierge Forever Macaroni Necklace
TrendsMay 02, 2025
Ring Concierge, Kraft Partner on Mother’s Day Macaroni Necklace

The childhood craft of making dried pasta necklaces for Mother’s Day is all grown up as the 14-karat gold “Forever Macaroni” necklace.

Angely Martinez emerald Promise ring
CollectionsMay 02, 2025
Piece of the Week: Angely Martinez’s Emerald Promise Ring

Set with May’s birthstone and featuring an earthworm, this ring is a perfect celebration of spring.

Stuller 2025-2026 bridal catalog
MajorsMay 02, 2025
Stuller’s New Bridal Catalog Is Here

“Bridal 2025–2026” includes popular styles and a dedicated section for quick pricing references of lab-grown diamond bridal jewelry.

Americut Gems
SourcingMay 01, 2025
Tariffs & Colored Gemstones: Relying on Stock, Considering the Ripple Effect

Though currently paused, high tariffs threaten many countries where gemstones are mined. Dealers are taking measures now to prepare.

Exterior of new David Yurman store in the Miami Design District
MajorsMay 01, 2025
Peek Inside David Yurman’s New Miami Flagship Store

Located in Miami’s Design District, the 4,000-square-foot store is an homage to David and Sybil Yurman’s artistic roots.

Oscar Heyman emerald and diamond necklace
TrendsMay 01, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: 20 Pieces of Emerald Jewelry for May

May babies are lucky indeed, born in a month awash with fresh colors and celebrated with one of the most coveted colored gemstones.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy