Auctions

‘Unicorn’ Cartier Watch Hits the Auction Block

AuctionsJul 13, 2022

‘Unicorn’ Cartier Watch Hits the Auction Block

Only four models of the Cartier Cheich watch were ever produced, and Sotheby’s Paris is offering one of them.

20220713_Cartier-Cheich-header.jpg
This 1983 Cartier Cheich watch, one of four in existence, is the first to appear at auction. Sotheby’s Paris will offer the rare timepiece this September.
Paris—A rare and important Cartier wristwatch is headed to Sotheby’s Paris this September.
 
The auction house will offer the 1983 Cartier Cheich watch—what it’s calling a “watch unicorn”—on Sept. 30 as part of its Luxury Edit sale series.
 
The model has a history steeped in racing lore that begins with the Paris-Dakar race, also known as the Dakar Rally. 
 
The Race That Inspired the Cartier Challenge
Started in 1978, the Paris-Dakar race originally began in Paris, France and ended in Dakar, Senegal, traveling some 10,000 kilometers, or 6,214 miles. (Today, the Dakar rally is held in Saudia Arabia after a decade in South America.)
 
Motorcycle racer Thierry Sabine conceived the Paris-Dakar rally after becoming lost during a race in the Libyan desert and falling in love with the landscape. 
 
He opened the Paris-Dakar to any motorized land vehicle, amateur or professional. The grueling race took 20 days, with racers camping out along the way. 
 
On Paris-Dakar’s fifth anniversary in 1983, Sabine partnered with Cartier’s then-president Alain Dominique Perrin on the Cartier Challenge. 
 
It required a racer to win the race twice in consecutive years, with the same form of transport both years, i.e. motorcycle, car, or truck. 
 
 Related stories will be right here … 
 
Only one contender was able to fulfill the Cartier Challenge—Belgian Gaston Rahier won in 1984 and 1985 by motorbike. 
 
Rahier’s illustrious career nearly ended in 1982 when he came close to losing his hand in a motorbike accident. Determined to recover, he participated in his first Paris-Dakar rally the following year in 1983. 
 
He was the first non-French person to win the race in 1984, and the first and only winner of the Cartier Challenge when he repeated the effort in 1985. 
 
His victory was marked with a bespoke Cartier Cheich watch. 
 
The Timepiece
Jacques Diltoer, the then-creative director of Cartier and Perrin, designed the Cartier Cheich in ode to the Paris-Dakar mascot, which depicted the silhouetted face of a Tuareg person, the Berber ethnic group that inhabits the Sahara, in traditional robes that protect from the desert sun, called the cheich.
 
Only four models of the Cartier Cheich were ever made. Two were created in 1983: the one awarded to Rahier that Sotheby’s is auctioning, and a ladies’ edition in case of a potential female winner. 
 
A third edition was created in 1985 for a possible future champion.
 
Then-President Perrin had a fourth made for Paris-Dakar creator Sabine. This final edition is thought to have been given to a French motorbike race driver named Hubert Auriol but is believed to be lost. 
 
Each of the four timepieces has unique elements.
 

The Cartier Challenge ended in 1986. That year, Sabine died in a helicopter crash in Mali resulting from a sandstorm during the Paris-Dakar rally. 
 
Cartier has possession of the two remaining Cartier Cheich watches. According to Sotheby’s, the Cartier Cheich that Rahier won is the only one that will ever appear at market. 
 
The cheich-inspired case is the most significant design departure from any other Cartier timepiece.
 
The unique shape required new engineering as it couldn’t accommodate the usual bars that screw through the lugs to attach to the strap. The back of the main case was carved with a special fixture that holds the strap in place. 
 
While the case is unusual, it’s not the first to incorporate asymmetric elements. The Tank Asymétrique and Cartier Crash watches are examples of other asymmetric styles.
 
The Cheich case is rendered in 18-karat yellow gold with elements of 18-karat rose gold and 18-karat white gold, another Cartier signature as seen in styles like the Trinity rings. 
 
The dial depicts a rectangular rail track with baton and Roman indexes as well as two blued-steel hands in classic Cartier Paris style. 
The Rahier Cartier Cheich is in pristine condition, according to Sotheby’s. Rahier’s family is offering the timepiece for sale, and it hasn’t been presented in public in almost 40 years. It even comes in its original box featuring a curved triangular shape designed in homage to desert dunes. 
 
Under the Cartier signature, “Trophée Paris Alger Dakar” is inscribed. 
 
Now, it is on view at Sotheby’s Monaco gallery through July 17. It will be exhibited in Paris prior to the Sept. 30 sale. 
 
Sotheby’s estimates the Cartier Cheich watch will sell between €200,000 to €400,000, or approximately $200,749 to $401,498 per current exchange rates. 

Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

Stock image of a gavel and law books
CrimeOct 07, 2025
Men Who Posed as Utility Workers Found Guilty in Jeweler’s Murder

Carlos Jose Hernandez and Joshua Zuazo face life in prison for the October 2024 murder of 72-year-old Detroit-area jeweler Hussein Murray.

Zoë Kravitz Wearing Jessica McCormack Tempest Sapphire Pendant and Tempest Diamond Necklace
CollectionsOct 07, 2025
Jessica McCormack Looks to Sea Spirits for ‘Tempest’ Collection

The brand’s first high jewelry collection, “Tempest” plays with movement while calling to mind the folklore of the sea.

Lightning Ridge Rural Fire Brigade
SourcingOct 07, 2025
Columbia Gem House Announces ‘Opals for Outback Heroes’ Fundraiser

Proceeds from its jewelry raffle will go to a volunteer-run fire and rescue group in the Lightning Ridge area of New South Wales, Australia.

ja_fall_2024_by_headshot_stories_6824.jpg
Brought to you by
JA New York Fall Is Right Around the Corner

The upcoming show provides savvy retailers with the opportunity to stock their cases with best sellers in advance of the holiday season.

Stuller 2025 S.E.R.V.E. Star Awards winners
MajorsOct 07, 2025
Stuller Names Its S.E.R.V.E Stars for 2025

Stuller said the recipients embody the company’s core values, which include community participation and personal and professional growth.

Weekly QuizOct 02, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
All four models of Citizen’s new Rainell watch
WatchesOct 06, 2025
This Fall, Citizen’s Forecast Calls for Rain

Citizen’s new “Rainell” women’s watch has a raindrop-shaped case and is available with a silver-, gold-, purple-, or green-colored dial.

Amit Pratihari GIA India
GradingOct 06, 2025
GIA India Names Former De Beers Exec as New Managing Director

Amit Pratihari was previously the managing director of De Beers India and Forevermark India.

gia-edu main image.png
Brought to you by
A Brilliant Future Is Here

Online education from GIA experts.

DCWC 2025 Board of Directors
SourcingOct 06, 2025
SoCal 24 Karat Club Integrates Into Diamond Club West Coast

Members of the Jewelers 24 Karat Club of Southern California will gain access to expanded services, resources, and connections, DCWC said.

Selena Gomez and Benny Blanco Wedding, Jacob & Co. Watch
TrendsOct 03, 2025
Selena Gomez, Benny Blanco Tie the Knot Wearing Diamonds, White Metals

Gomez’s jewelry included Tiffany & Co. drop-style earrings while Blanco stacked diamonds from Jacob & Co. on his wrist.

HRD Antwerp CEO Paul De Wachter
GradingOct 03, 2025
Grading Lab HRD Antwerp Names New CEO

Diamond industry banking veteran Paul De Wachter will take on the role in January 2026.

Taylor Swift Kallati sapphire ring
TrendsOct 03, 2025
Piece of the Week: Kallati’s Pink Sapphire Ring

Taylor Swift flaunts an Elizabeth Taylor-esque gemstone in promo for her new album, “The Life of a Showgirl.”

Boucheron Quatre Sand Collection
CollectionsOct 02, 2025
Boucheron Debuts Cuffs Crafted With 3D-Printed Sand

Its “Quantre Sand” capsule was made using a 3D sand printing technique borrowed from the automotive and aeronautics industries.

Stock image of crime scene tape
CrimeOct 02, 2025
$1M in Jewelry Stolen in Northern California Smash and Grab

Four individuals have been charged in the “takeover-style” robbery of Heller Jewelers last month, and additional charges are expected.

Neil Lane and Boucheron bow tie brooch
MajorsOct 02, 2025
Neil Lane Jewelry Exhibition Coming to Toledo Museum of Art

“Radiance and Reverie” will showcase more than 150 jewels from Lane’s personal collection by Tiffany & Co., Cartier, and more.

Just Jules opal necklace
TrendsOct 02, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: October’s Colorful Show

The month’s birthstones, tourmaline and opal, complement the palette of autumn.

Peter Smith National Jeweler columnist
ColumnistsOct 01, 2025
Peter Smith: Why Vendor Success Starts With Self-Reflection

Smith shares the importance of looking at your company with openness and honesty to identify opportunities you may be missing.

Plah Black Swan Earrings
EditorsOct 01, 2025
Playing Favorites: The Best Jewelry From Vicenzaoro

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco visited Italy to spot jewelry trends at the September Vicenzaoro show and share her top finds.

People shopping in a mall
SurveysOct 01, 2025
Consumer Confidence Hits 5-Month Low in September

Respondents were concerned about job availability and rising prices.

Gemfields rough emeralds
SourcingOct 01, 2025
Gemfields’ H1 Revenue Falls 47%

Its latest interim financials revealed a challenging first half due in part to production troubles at its mines.

Pandora executives Alexander Lacik and Berta de Pablos-Barbier
MajorsSep 30, 2025
Pandora CEO to Retire in 2026, Hand Reins to CMO

Alexander Lacik has led Pandora since 2019. Berta de Pablos-Barbier will succeed him, the first woman to head the company.

Gavel near stacks of books
CrimeSep 30, 2025
2 Suspects Charged in $300K Sleight-of-Hand Jewelry Store Scam

Two men allegedly used counterfeit bills to purchase luxury watches and jewelry from a North Carolina jeweler.

Billie Eilish and Finneas O’Connell John Hardy Lovestruck Collection
CollectionsSep 30, 2025
Billie Eilish, Finneas Partner with John Hardy

The “Lovestruck” collection, designed with the Academy and Grammy award-winning siblings, is the brand’s first lab-grown diamond offering.

Spinelli Kilcollin Market Highland Park
IndependentsSep 30, 2025
Spinelli Kilcollin Announces Residency in Dallas

The brand, celebrating its 15th anniversary, has popped up at Market, a luxury fashion destination in Highland Park Village.

Nina Pugliese Henne Jewelers
IndependentsSep 29, 2025
Nina Pugliese, Longtime Henne Jewelers Employee, Dies at 65

She was remembered as a creative and generous woman of faith, who also had a sweet tooth.

Kwait White and Yellow Gold Diamond Earrings
TrendsSep 29, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Ear Focus

Move over neck mess, the ear story is the way to make a layering statement today.

Mark Henry Leandra Medine Cohen
IndependentsSep 29, 2025
Mark Henry Jewelry to Debut in Canada

The New York-based brand is set to launch a limited-time offering for the holiday season at Holt Renfrew in Toronto.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy