Editors

7 Standout Tiaras in Sotheby’s Platinum Jubilee Exhibition

EditorsMay 25, 2022

7 Standout Tiaras in Sotheby’s Platinum Jubilee Exhibition

Senior Editor Brecken Branstrator chooses the pieces she’d most want to see in person.

20220525_Amethyst-tiara.jpg
An amethyst, sapphire, onyx, and diamond bandeau from Cartier circa the 1920s
The past decade or so has created a case of royal fever, starting with Prince William’s wedding to the Duchess of Cambridge in 2011. 
 
In the jewelry realm, there has been much attention paid to Kate’s sapphire ring that first belonged to Princess Diana, an appreciation for Princess Eugenie’s padparadscha sapphire, and of course a close eye on the tiaras that have been spotted at important occasions. 
 
Royal watching has reached a fever pitch this year as Queen Elizabeth II became the first British monarch to celebrate a Platinum Jubilee, marking 70 years of being on the throne. 
 
The country will celebrate throughout the year with various events, and there’s one in particular that caught this jewelry lover’s eye. 
 
Sotheby’s London is set to host “Power & Image: Royal & Aristocratic Tiaras” from Saturday, May 28 to Wednesday, June 15 at its showroom on New Bond Street. 
 
Sotheby’s is calling it the largest tiara exhibition to be held in the U.K. in 20 years, comprising nearly 50 royal and aristocratic tiaras, some of which are being exhibited publicly for the first time. 
 
Nearly all of them were made and owned by British nobility; as a group they offer a comprehensive look at all the major tiara design styles, Sotheby’s explained. 
 
There are standout pieces like “The Spencer Tiara,” which Princess Diana wore on her wedding day, and several that were worn by guests at Queen Elizabeth’s coronation in 1953. 
 
They all have a spectacular provenance, but there are some that really stood out to me, either because of their design or their eye-catching stones. 
 
Without further ado, here are seven of my favorites.
 
20220525_Emerald-tiara.jpg

It wouldn't be a royal jewelry roundup without emeralds, and this tiara has plenty to offer.  
 
The emerald and diamond piece belonged to Queen Victoria. It was designed by Prince Albert and created by Joseph Kitching in 1845. 
 
Featuring a tapered openwork band of scroll motifs set with cushion-shaped diamonds and step-cut emeralds in gold collets, the tiara also comprises a graduated row of 19 inverted pear-shaped emerald drops weighing between approximately 1.75 carats and 15 carats (the largest is pictured at center). 

I dislike when gemstones are referred to as semi-precious; I think the term takes away the inherent beauty and value of a gemstone of any kind. 
 
Amethyst is a great example of that for me. I realize it’s fairly plentiful, but when you look at the quality of amethysts used in royal jewels, how could they be anything but precious? 
 
The lush amethysts in this Cartier tiara circa the 1920s are so saturated and beautiful, they represent the best the stone has to offer. Combine that with a visually intriguing Art Deco design and sapphire, onyx, and diamond accents, and this is one piece I think stands out in the crowd.  
 
20220525_Cameo-tiara.jpg

One look at this diadem and I think you’ll understand why I chose it. It goes beyond what we usually see for tiaras, and that’s exactly what attracted me to it. 
 
Joséphine Bonaparte’s gold and enamel diadem is set with 19th century and ancient cameo hardstones: the head of Medusa (possibly late 16th century), a profile of Zeus (probably 18th century), a bust of Pan (probably 18th century), a head of Bacchus (probably 18th century), and Gaia nursing a baby (possibly late 16th century). 
 
It sold for £126,000 ($166,672 at exchange rates at the time) at the Sotheby’s “London Treasures” auction in December. Don’t miss the gold, enamel, and carnelian parure, circa 1808, that also sold in the sale. 
 
This gem-set bandeau circa 1920 is understated, especially when compared to many of the others in the exhibition, but it still manages to captivate with its delicate design; I love the soft openwork of foliage and flowers. 
 
It’s set at the center with a cabochon emerald as well as circular-cut sapphires and pink sapphires. 
 

This had to be included; the pop of color combined with classic diamonds and gold is perfect. 
 
Created by Van Cleef & Arpels circa the 1960s, the tiara features five graduated large oval cabochon turquoise stones set within a brilliant-cut diamond border, interspersed by six smaller cabochon turquoise stones. 
 
It’s part of a parure that includes a necklace and earrings of similar design. 
 
20220525_Diamond-tiara.jpg

I didn’t want to seem like I was playing favorites with colored gemstones, so I made sure to include some all-diamond pieces. This wasn’t hard by any means, as every tiara in the exhibition is a true piece of art. 
 
But this one in particular really spoke to me—the tiara is loaded with diamonds, but I also love the clean symmetry of its silhouette. 
 
Created circa 1830, the Napoleonic-style tiara was designed as a laurel wreath with diamond-set leaves forming a pediment shape, and cushion and pear diamonds throughout.
 

I would die to get the chance to try any of these on, but if I had to pick one, it would probably be this, just to see how it wears. I’m a little obsessed with the idea of a diamond “halo;” who wouldn’t be?
 
According to Sotheby’s, the “Westminster Diamond Halo” tiara was originally designed around three historical diamonds by the French jeweler Lacloche Frères in the early 1930s. 
 
Two pear-shaped diamonds, given to Queen Charlotte by the Nawab of Arcot, flanked what was believed to be the “Hastings Diamond,” a round stone Nizam Ali Khan gave to King George III in 1785. 
 
The Marquess of Westminster acquired the trio of diamonds, and the family used them in various jewels over the decades. 
 
The tiara was later sold to Harry Winston, who redesigned the piece to include clusters of smaller diamonds in place of the three large stones. 
 
Make sure you check out images of the piece being worn, including how it originally looked with the three larger diamonds. You won’t be disappointed. 

 Related stories will be right here …

The Latest

Cartier Panthère watch
WatchesSep 11, 2024
These Are the Watches Women Want, Says Chrono24

Its “Her-ology” report highlights trends in the women’s luxury watch market, from top brands to movement preferences.

Marrow Fine x Adalina Martini and Tennis Necklace
IndependentsSep 11, 2024
Take a Sip of Marrow Fine x Adalina’s $13K Martini

The smoked heirloom tomato mezcal martini, only available at Adalina in Chicago, is served with a 9-carat diamond tennis necklace.

Lightbox loose lab-grown diamonds
Events & AwardsSep 11, 2024
Lab-Grown, Natural Diamonds to Be Focus of AGS Confluence

Scheduled for Sept. 25, the online-only event will be open to non-AGS members this year, for a fee.

How to Increase Instagram Followers Naturally in 2024 2.0 (1).jpg
Brought to you by
How to Increase Instagram Followers Naturally in 2024

Growing your Instagram following organically is more important than ever in today's technological environment.

Brilliant Earth Showroom Fairfax Virginia
MajorsSep 11, 2024
Brilliant Earth Expands International E-Commerce

Customers in more than 150 countries can now shop at the jewelry retailer’s online store.

Weekly QuizSep 05, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Gems Keep Giving
Policies & IssuesSep 11, 2024
Gems Keep Giving Reorganizes, Taps Hayley Henning as Board Chair

The organization, which was started by the International Colored Gemstone Association, is now a 501(c)(3).

 Jeffrey Lynn High
IndependentsSep 10, 2024
Industry Technology Visionary Jeff High Dies at 60

The Gemvision founder is remembered as a passionate mentor with a deep love for God.

Supplier Spotlight -Recorded-Webinar.png
Brought to you by
Watch: Natural Diamonds: A Great (but Often Untold) Geology Story

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA.

Foundrae Golden Hour Campaign
CollectionsSep 10, 2024
Foundrae’s Latest Collection Harnesses the Glow of the Golden Hour

The “Golden Hour” collection was designed to “inspire and encourage reflection,” said the brand.

Movado When I Move You Move campaign
MajorsSep 10, 2024
Ludacris, Jessica Alba Star in New Movado Campaign

Movado has named five new brand ambassadors, featuring them in its new “When I Move You Move” campaign.

Carol Woolton
TrendsSep 10, 2024
Carol Woolton To Release New Book

The jewelry historian discusses the history and cultural significance of jewelry throughout time and across the globe.

US Senator Dianne Feinstein
AuctionsSep 09, 2024
US Senator Dianne Feinstein's Jewels Going to Auction

Bonhams will offer more than 70 pieces of the late dignitary’s jewelry next month.

Hearts On Fire Love, Unleashed Campaign
CollectionsSep 09, 2024
Hearts On Fire Debuts New Campaign, Designs

The “Love, Unleashed” campaign is an ode to love, featuring 16 new designs from Hearts On Fire’s “Vela” collection.

Fuli gemstones beidou cut
SourcingSep 09, 2024
Fuli Gemstones Introduces ‘Beidou Cut’

The miner’s new peridot cut will debut at the upcoming Hong Kong jewelry trade show.

Fabergé Beetlejuice Beetlejuice jewelry collection
CollectionsSep 06, 2024
The ‘Fabergé x Beetlejuice Beetlejuice’ Collection is Scary Chic

It’s showtime for these jewels, inspired by the motifs and color palette of the new Tim Burton film.

Movado Connect 2.0 watches
FinancialsSep 06, 2024
Movado Lowers Guidance as Q2 Sales Slip

CEO Efraim Grinberg pointed to a challenging consumer spending environment, particularly in the watch category.

Lizzie Mandler’s Liquid Gold Hoops
CollectionsSep 06, 2024
Piece of the Week: Lizzie Mandler’s ‘Liquid Gold’ Hoops

Inspired by a 19th century sculpture, Mandler transformed gold into liquid for these earrings.

Bella Hadid in Chopard Campaigns
CollectionsSep 05, 2024
Bella Hadid Is Chopard’s New Brand Ambassador

The model and entrepreneur stars in two new Chopard campaigns.

Nordstrom men’s store New York City
MajorsSep 05, 2024
Nordstrom Family Offers to Buy Namesake Retailer for $3.8B

Members of the founding family partnered with Mexican retail company El Puerto de Liverpool to possibly take Nordstrom private.

Tiffany & Co. Elsa Peretti Bone cuff
MajorsSep 05, 2024
Tiffany & Co. Celebrates Elsa Peretti’s Bone Cuff

The iconic design has joined a lineup of notable pieces featured in the jeweler’s “With Love, Since 1837” campaign.

New Cadar CEO Ralph Simons
MajorsSep 05, 2024
Former Chopard, Frederique Constant Executive Tapped to Head Cadar

Ralph Simons is now CEO of the jewelry brand started by fashion designer Michal Kadar and her husband, Avraham Kadar, in 2015.

National Jeweler columnists Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams
ColumnistsSep 04, 2024
Creative Connecting: Why ‘Experience Content’ Matters

Jen Cullen Williams and Duvall O’Steen say it’s all about giving your social media feeds a human touch.

 Models Taylor Hill and Soo Joo Park wearing Messika jewelry
TrendsSep 04, 2024
Taylor Hill, Soo Joo Park Star in New Messika Campaign

The models and friends of founder and artistic designer Valérie Messika showcase the brand’s jewelry in the “Back to Icons” campaign.

Bloomingdale’s From Italy, With Love campaign
MajorsSep 04, 2024
Bloomingdale’s to Highlight Italian Jewelry in New Campaign

“From Italy, With Love” will showcase Roberto Coin, Marco Bicego, and other Italian brands.

Zales tennis necklace over Prince tennis racket
CollectionsSep 03, 2024
Zales, Prince Debut US Open-Inspired Collection

The jewelry retailer will also have a diamond-set tennis racket on display at the tournament.

Ylang 23 Flagship
IndependentsSep 03, 2024
Ylang 23 Relocates, Expands Dallas Flagship

The retailer has moved into a 3,200-square-foot space at The Shops of Highland Park.

Suzanne Kalan
TrendsSep 03, 2024
Amanda’s Style File: Sapphires for September

The month’s birthstone is vibrant in every color.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy