Editors

7 Standout Tiaras in Sotheby’s Platinum Jubilee Exhibition

EditorsMay 25, 2022

7 Standout Tiaras in Sotheby’s Platinum Jubilee Exhibition

Senior Editor Brecken Branstrator chooses the pieces she’d most want to see in person.

20220525_Amethyst-tiara.jpg
An amethyst, sapphire, onyx, and diamond bandeau from Cartier circa the 1920s
The past decade or so has created a case of royal fever, starting with Prince William’s wedding to the Duchess of Cambridge in 2011. 
 
In the jewelry realm, there has been much attention paid to Kate’s sapphire ring that first belonged to Princess Diana, an appreciation for Princess Eugenie’s padparadscha sapphire, and of course a close eye on the tiaras that have been spotted at important occasions. 
 
Royal watching has reached a fever pitch this year as Queen Elizabeth II became the first British monarch to celebrate a Platinum Jubilee, marking 70 years of being on the throne. 
 
The country will celebrate throughout the year with various events, and there’s one in particular that caught this jewelry lover’s eye. 
 
Sotheby’s London is set to host “Power & Image: Royal & Aristocratic Tiaras” from Saturday, May 28 to Wednesday, June 15 at its showroom on New Bond Street. 
 
Sotheby’s is calling it the largest tiara exhibition to be held in the U.K. in 20 years, comprising nearly 50 royal and aristocratic tiaras, some of which are being exhibited publicly for the first time. 
 
Nearly all of them were made and owned by British nobility; as a group they offer a comprehensive look at all the major tiara design styles, Sotheby’s explained. 
 
There are standout pieces like “The Spencer Tiara,” which Princess Diana wore on her wedding day, and several that were worn by guests at Queen Elizabeth’s coronation in 1953. 
 
They all have a spectacular provenance, but there are some that really stood out to me, either because of their design or their eye-catching stones. 
 
Without further ado, here are seven of my favorites.
 
20220525_Emerald-tiara.jpg

It wouldn't be a royal jewelry roundup without emeralds, and this tiara has plenty to offer.  
 
The emerald and diamond piece belonged to Queen Victoria. It was designed by Prince Albert and created by Joseph Kitching in 1845. 
 
Featuring a tapered openwork band of scroll motifs set with cushion-shaped diamonds and step-cut emeralds in gold collets, the tiara also comprises a graduated row of 19 inverted pear-shaped emerald drops weighing between approximately 1.75 carats and 15 carats (the largest is pictured at center). 

I dislike when gemstones are referred to as semi-precious; I think the term takes away the inherent beauty and value of a gemstone of any kind. 
 
Amethyst is a great example of that for me. I realize it’s fairly plentiful, but when you look at the quality of amethysts used in royal jewels, how could they be anything but precious? 
 
The lush amethysts in this Cartier tiara circa the 1920s are so saturated and beautiful, they represent the best the stone has to offer. Combine that with a visually intriguing Art Deco design and sapphire, onyx, and diamond accents, and this is one piece I think stands out in the crowd.  
 
20220525_Cameo-tiara.jpg

One look at this diadem and I think you’ll understand why I chose it. It goes beyond what we usually see for tiaras, and that’s exactly what attracted me to it. 
 
Joséphine Bonaparte’s gold and enamel diadem is set with 19th century and ancient cameo hardstones: the head of Medusa (possibly late 16th century), a profile of Zeus (probably 18th century), a bust of Pan (probably 18th century), a head of Bacchus (probably 18th century), and Gaia nursing a baby (possibly late 16th century). 
 
It sold for £126,000 ($166,672 at exchange rates at the time) at the Sotheby’s “London Treasures” auction in December. Don’t miss the gold, enamel, and carnelian parure, circa 1808, that also sold in the sale. 
 
This gem-set bandeau circa 1920 is understated, especially when compared to many of the others in the exhibition, but it still manages to captivate with its delicate design; I love the soft openwork of foliage and flowers. 
 
It’s set at the center with a cabochon emerald as well as circular-cut sapphires and pink sapphires. 
 

This had to be included; the pop of color combined with classic diamonds and gold is perfect. 
 
Created by Van Cleef & Arpels circa the 1960s, the tiara features five graduated large oval cabochon turquoise stones set within a brilliant-cut diamond border, interspersed by six smaller cabochon turquoise stones. 
 
It’s part of a parure that includes a necklace and earrings of similar design. 
 
20220525_Diamond-tiara.jpg

I didn’t want to seem like I was playing favorites with colored gemstones, so I made sure to include some all-diamond pieces. This wasn’t hard by any means, as every tiara in the exhibition is a true piece of art. 
 
But this one in particular really spoke to me—the tiara is loaded with diamonds, but I also love the clean symmetry of its silhouette. 
 
Created circa 1830, the Napoleonic-style tiara was designed as a laurel wreath with diamond-set leaves forming a pediment shape, and cushion and pear diamonds throughout.
 

I would die to get the chance to try any of these on, but if I had to pick one, it would probably be this, just to see how it wears. I’m a little obsessed with the idea of a diamond “halo;” who wouldn’t be?
 
According to Sotheby’s, the “Westminster Diamond Halo” tiara was originally designed around three historical diamonds by the French jeweler Lacloche Frères in the early 1930s. 
 
Two pear-shaped diamonds, given to Queen Charlotte by the Nawab of Arcot, flanked what was believed to be the “Hastings Diamond,” a round stone Nizam Ali Khan gave to King George III in 1785. 
 
The Marquess of Westminster acquired the trio of diamonds, and the family used them in various jewels over the decades. 
 
The tiara was later sold to Harry Winston, who redesigned the piece to include clusters of smaller diamonds in place of the three large stones. 
 
Make sure you check out images of the piece being worn, including how it originally looked with the three larger diamonds. You won’t be disappointed. 

 Related stories will be right here …

The Latest

Stafford’s Diamonds closing ad
IndependentsMar 14, 2025
Stafford’s Diamonds in Ohio to Close After 40 Years

The Dayton-based jeweler, which has been in business since 1985, was formerly known as Stafford Jewelers.

Alan Zimmer
Events & AwardsMar 14, 2025
JVC Reveals Recipient of Stanley Schechter Award

Reeds Jewelers CEO Alan Zimmer will be presented with the honor at JVC’s annual luncheon.

Sorellina’s Aries Zodiac Pendant
CollectionsMar 14, 2025
Piece of the Week: Sorellina’s Aries Zodiac Pendant

The piece, celebrating birthdays from March 21 to April 19, debuted with Sorellina’s new line of astrological pendants.

Supplier Spotlight -Recorded-Webinar.png
Brought to you by
Watch: GIA Field Gemology at the One-Hundredth Expedition: A Look Back and to the Future

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA

Tanishq Atlanta store
MajorsMar 13, 2025
Tanishq Opens 2 New Stores in the U.S.

The Indian jewelry brand recently opened stores in Atlanta and Seattle.

Weekly QuizMar 14, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Woman wearing Brilliant Earth jewelry
FinancialsMar 13, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s 2024 Sales Struggled Amid Engagement Recovery

CEO Beth Gerstein shared its most popular price points, what’s trending in non-bridal fine jewelry, and its holiday performance.

Chopard Insofu emerald collection
CollectionsMar 13, 2025
Chopard Unveils High Jewelry Collection Created From 6,225-Carat Emerald

The 15 pieces were crafted from the “Insofu” emerald, discovered in Zambia in 2010.

Facets-of-Fire-Difference-You-Can-See.jpg
Brought to you by
Natural Diamonds Should Mean More

Natural diamonds mean more than lab-grown, but when every cut is ideal, they all look the same. Customers want more—Facets of Fire delivers.

Chris Anderson
MajorsMar 13, 2025
Jewelers Mutual Names New CFO, Treasurer

Chris Anderson is joining the insurance provider as the new chief financial officer and treasurer.

Jewelers of America’s new natural and lab-grown diamond brochure
Lab-GrownMar 13, 2025
JA Offering Some ‘Counter Intelligence’ on Diamonds

Jewelers of America is distributing a brochure for retailers to use when discussing the differences between natural and lab-grown diamonds.

A rough diamond and a polished diamond
SourcingMar 12, 2025
5 Factors That Will Impact the Diamond Industry in 2025

The industry is changing as it grapples with new realities around distribution, supply, and the need for consistent, effective marketing.

New Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council Chairman Kirit Bhansali
SourcingMar 12, 2025
Q&A: New GJEPC Chairman Kirit Bhansali

Bhansali discusses the potential impact of U.S. tariffs, demand for diamonds by market, and the “cautious confidence” in India right now.

Limelight Lab Grown Diamond store in India
Lab-GrownMar 12, 2025
Beyond Jewelry: Possibilities in the Lab-Grown Diamond Sector

As lab-grown diamond brands pop up across India, academics are researching how to grow demand outside of the jewelry industry.

Diamonds Do Good honoree Govind Dholakia at medical camp
SourcingMar 12, 2025
Indian Leader, Retailer Among 2025 DDG Honorees

Govind Dholakia and Tanishq will be recognized for their contributions to the industry at the Diamonds Do Good Awards in Las Vegas.

Marla Aaron Liberty London Shop-in-Shop
IndependentsMar 12, 2025
Marla Aaron Migrates to London

The New York City-based brand has opened its first U.K. location with a permanent shop-in-shop at Liberty in London.

Medieval sapphire bishop ring
AuctionsMar 12, 2025
A Medieval Bishop’s Sapphire Ring Is Going Up for Sale

A metal detectorist discovered the ring that is believed to have belonged to a bishop in the late 12th to early 13th century.

JA New York sign
Events & AwardsMar 12, 2025
JA New York Announces Education, Live Demo Lineups

Organizers looked to new partnerships and interactive experiences to enhance the spring show, set for March 16 to 18.

Jewelers Vigilance Committee annual luncheon 2025 logo
Events & AwardsMar 12, 2025
Bogolo Joy Kenewendo to Speak at Annual JVC Luncheon

Kenewendo, Botswana’s minister of minerals and energy, will discuss the future of diamonds.

Jaythan Lawrence Gilder and body scan
CrimeMar 11, 2025
Man in Florida Swallows Allegedly Stolen Tiffany & Co. Jewelry

The suspect allegedly stole almost $800,000 worth of diamond jewelry from a store in Orlando and then swallowed it during a traffic stop.

Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams
ColumnistsMar 11, 2025
Creative Connecting: How to Pose on the Red Carpet

Ahead of the Gem Awards on Friday, Jen Cullen Williams and Duvall O’Steen share pro tips for taking the best photos.

Marco Bicego 25 Years Campaign Isabeli Fontana
CollectionsMar 11, 2025
Marco Bicego Celebrates 25 Years With Collection, Campaign

Founded in 2000, Marco Bicego is commemorating its milestone anniversary with a “25 Best” collection and campaigns honoring its heritage.

Hill & Co The List
TechnologyMar 11, 2025
Hill & Co. Launches New B2B Buyer Database

Those attending the company’s upcoming Zoom workshop will receive early access to “The List,” its new resource for finding buyers.

Amy-Elise Signeavsky GIA
Events & AwardsMar 11, 2025
JSA to Honor GIA Employee at Annual Luncheon

The organization will present an award to Amy-Elise Signeavsky, law enforcement and diamond recovery manager at GIA.

Picture of Terry Chandler, president and CEO of the Diamond Council of America
MajorsMar 10, 2025
Terry Chandler to Retire After 24 Years as Head of DCA

Chandler started his jewelry career at Michelson Jewelers, joining the Diamond Council of America as president and CEO in 2001.

MaeVona King of the Mountains Torc
CollectionsMar 10, 2025
MaeVona Co-Founder Debuts 3D-Printed ‘Tùsaire’ Collection

Scottish American designer Maeve Gillies collaborated with Platinum Guild International on jewelry created by direct metal 3D printing.

The Jewelry Symposium 2025 Scholarship Winners
Events & AwardsMar 10, 2025
The Jewelry Symposium Announces 2025 Scholarship Winners

Ahead of its trade show in May, TJS awarded free registration and accommodations to five up-and-coming jewelry industry professionals.

Gem Awards New York City
Events & AwardsMar 10, 2025
These Designers, Journalists, and Retailers Are Up for a Gem Award

The 2025 Gem Awards are set to take place Friday at Cipriani 42nd Street in New York City.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy