Editors

7 Standout Tiaras in Sotheby’s Platinum Jubilee Exhibition

EditorsMay 25, 2022

7 Standout Tiaras in Sotheby’s Platinum Jubilee Exhibition

Senior Editor Brecken Branstrator chooses the pieces she’d most want to see in person.

20220525_Amethyst-tiara.jpg
An amethyst, sapphire, onyx, and diamond bandeau from Cartier circa the 1920s
The past decade or so has created a case of royal fever, starting with Prince William’s wedding to the Duchess of Cambridge in 2011. 
 
In the jewelry realm, there has been much attention paid to Kate’s sapphire ring that first belonged to Princess Diana, an appreciation for Princess Eugenie’s padparadscha sapphire, and of course a close eye on the tiaras that have been spotted at important occasions. 
 
Royal watching has reached a fever pitch this year as Queen Elizabeth II became the first British monarch to celebrate a Platinum Jubilee, marking 70 years of being on the throne. 
 
The country will celebrate throughout the year with various events, and there’s one in particular that caught this jewelry lover’s eye. 
 
Sotheby’s London is set to host “Power & Image: Royal & Aristocratic Tiaras” from Saturday, May 28 to Wednesday, June 15 at its showroom on New Bond Street. 
 
Sotheby’s is calling it the largest tiara exhibition to be held in the U.K. in 20 years, comprising nearly 50 royal and aristocratic tiaras, some of which are being exhibited publicly for the first time. 
 
Nearly all of them were made and owned by British nobility; as a group they offer a comprehensive look at all the major tiara design styles, Sotheby’s explained. 
 
There are standout pieces like “The Spencer Tiara,” which Princess Diana wore on her wedding day, and several that were worn by guests at Queen Elizabeth’s coronation in 1953. 
 
They all have a spectacular provenance, but there are some that really stood out to me, either because of their design or their eye-catching stones. 
 
Without further ado, here are seven of my favorites.
 
20220525_Emerald-tiara.jpg

It wouldn't be a royal jewelry roundup without emeralds, and this tiara has plenty to offer.  
 
The emerald and diamond piece belonged to Queen Victoria. It was designed by Prince Albert and created by Joseph Kitching in 1845. 
 
Featuring a tapered openwork band of scroll motifs set with cushion-shaped diamonds and step-cut emeralds in gold collets, the tiara also comprises a graduated row of 19 inverted pear-shaped emerald drops weighing between approximately 1.75 carats and 15 carats (the largest is pictured at center). 

I dislike when gemstones are referred to as semi-precious; I think the term takes away the inherent beauty and value of a gemstone of any kind. 
 
Amethyst is a great example of that for me. I realize it’s fairly plentiful, but when you look at the quality of amethysts used in royal jewels, how could they be anything but precious? 
 
The lush amethysts in this Cartier tiara circa the 1920s are so saturated and beautiful, they represent the best the stone has to offer. Combine that with a visually intriguing Art Deco design and sapphire, onyx, and diamond accents, and this is one piece I think stands out in the crowd.  
 
20220525_Cameo-tiara.jpg

One look at this diadem and I think you’ll understand why I chose it. It goes beyond what we usually see for tiaras, and that’s exactly what attracted me to it. 
 
Joséphine Bonaparte’s gold and enamel diadem is set with 19th century and ancient cameo hardstones: the head of Medusa (possibly late 16th century), a profile of Zeus (probably 18th century), a bust of Pan (probably 18th century), a head of Bacchus (probably 18th century), and Gaia nursing a baby (possibly late 16th century). 
 
It sold for £126,000 ($166,672 at exchange rates at the time) at the Sotheby’s “London Treasures” auction in December. Don’t miss the gold, enamel, and carnelian parure, circa 1808, that also sold in the sale. 
 
This gem-set bandeau circa 1920 is understated, especially when compared to many of the others in the exhibition, but it still manages to captivate with its delicate design; I love the soft openwork of foliage and flowers. 
 
It’s set at the center with a cabochon emerald as well as circular-cut sapphires and pink sapphires. 
 

This had to be included; the pop of color combined with classic diamonds and gold is perfect. 
 
Created by Van Cleef & Arpels circa the 1960s, the tiara features five graduated large oval cabochon turquoise stones set within a brilliant-cut diamond border, interspersed by six smaller cabochon turquoise stones. 
 
It’s part of a parure that includes a necklace and earrings of similar design. 
 
20220525_Diamond-tiara.jpg

I didn’t want to seem like I was playing favorites with colored gemstones, so I made sure to include some all-diamond pieces. This wasn’t hard by any means, as every tiara in the exhibition is a true piece of art. 
 
But this one in particular really spoke to me—the tiara is loaded with diamonds, but I also love the clean symmetry of its silhouette. 
 
Created circa 1830, the Napoleonic-style tiara was designed as a laurel wreath with diamond-set leaves forming a pediment shape, and cushion and pear diamonds throughout.
 

I would die to get the chance to try any of these on, but if I had to pick one, it would probably be this, just to see how it wears. I’m a little obsessed with the idea of a diamond “halo;” who wouldn’t be?
 
According to Sotheby’s, the “Westminster Diamond Halo” tiara was originally designed around three historical diamonds by the French jeweler Lacloche Frères in the early 1930s. 
 
Two pear-shaped diamonds, given to Queen Charlotte by the Nawab of Arcot, flanked what was believed to be the “Hastings Diamond,” a round stone Nizam Ali Khan gave to King George III in 1785. 
 
The Marquess of Westminster acquired the trio of diamonds, and the family used them in various jewels over the decades. 
 
The tiara was later sold to Harry Winston, who redesigned the piece to include clusters of smaller diamonds in place of the three large stones. 
 
Make sure you check out images of the piece being worn, including how it originally looked with the three larger diamonds. You won’t be disappointed. 

 Related stories will be right here …

The Latest

Sylvie Jewelry Auranova Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsApr 25, 2025
Sylvie Looks to Water in New Sculptural Bridal Collection

“Shell Auranova” is the next generation of the brand’s bridal line, featuring half-bezel engagement rings with bold and fluid designs.

Pomellato Nudo toi et moi ring
FinancialsApr 25, 2025
Kering’s Jewelry Brands Persevere as Q1 Sales Sink 14%

Boucheron and Pomellato performed well in an otherwise bleak quarter for Kering amid struggles at Gucci.

Melee diamonds from De Beers
SourcingApr 25, 2025
De Beers Sales, Production Fall in Q1 Amid Uncertainty

The company said it expects sightholders to remain “cautious” with their purchasing due to all the unknowns around the U.S. tariffs.

ejap cohort 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
Emerging Jewelers Accelerator Program Announces Second Cohort of Aspiring Jewelry Entrepreneurs

Six new retail businesses were selected for the 2025 program, which began in January.

LIM-401 2024 National Jeweler Supplier Bulletin- iD100 Web and Eblast FINAL (1).jpg
Supplier BulletinApr 24, 2025
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

Sponsored by the Gemological Institute of America

Weekly QuizApr 24, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Iowa jeweler Herman Ginsberg
IndependentsApr 24, 2025
Longtime Iowa Jeweler Herman Ginsberg Dies at 99

A third-generation jeweler, Ginsberg worked at his family’s store, Ginsberg Jewelers, from 1948 until his retirement in 2019.

Charles & Colvard moissanite ring
FinancialsApr 24, 2025
Charles & Colvard Delisted From Nasdaq Due to Noncompliance

The company failed to file its quarterly reports in a timely manner.

gia1d100 btyb.jpg
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your Business

The risk of laboratory-grown diamonds being falsely presented as natural diamonds presents a very significant danger to consumer trust.

Young Diamantaires
SourcingApr 24, 2025
Young Diamantaires Transition to Nonprofit

The organization also announced its board of directors.

Mined + Found "Hope" Matchbox Locket
TrendsApr 24, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: So Charming

Charms may be tiny but with their small size comes endless layering possibilities, from bracelets to necklaces and earrings.

Bulgari’s expanded factory in Valenza, Italy
MajorsApr 23, 2025
Bulgari Doubles Size of Jewelry Factory in Italy

Located in Valenza, the now 355,000-square-foot facility includes a new jewelry school that’s open to the public, Scuola Bulgari.

Jason McNary accepting FGI Fine Jewelry Rising Star award for Paola Sasplugas
Events & AwardsApr 23, 2025
PDPaola Creative Director Wins FGI’s ‘Rising Star’ Award

Paola Sasplugas, co-founder of the Barcelona-based jewelry brand, received the Fine Jewelry Award.

1999 Cosmograph Daytona, Ref.16516
AuctionsApr 23, 2025
Rare Custom Rolex Daytona Heads to Auction

A platinum Zenith-powered Daytona commissioned in the late ‘90s will headline Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in Geneva next month.

Carmelo Anthony and Jaylen Brown David Yurman campaign
MajorsApr 23, 2025
David Yurman’s New Campaign Stars Carmelo Anthony, Jaylen Brown

The basketball stars wear men’s jewelry from the “Curb Chain” collection.

Woman wearing Zales jewelry
MajorsApr 22, 2025
Zales’ Rebrand Takes Playful Approach to Fine Jewelry

The Signet Jewelers-owned retailer wants to encourage younger shoppers to wear fine jewelry every day, not just on special occasions.

JAR Apricot Blossom bracelet
AuctionsApr 22, 2025
Christie’s to Auction JAR Jewelry Collection

The 21 pieces, all from a private collector, will be offered at its Magnificent Jewels auction next month.

National Jeweler columnist Lilian Raji
ColumnistsApr 22, 2025
The PR Adviser: Building Buzz Through Word of Mouth

Lilian Raji answers a question from a reader who is looking to grow her jewelry business but has a limited marketing budget.

Avi Levy
GradingApr 22, 2025
Avi Levy Is GCAL By Sarine’s New Chief Growth Officer

GCAL by Sarine created the new role to sharpen the company’s focus on strategic partnerships and scalable expansion.

Scottsdale Fine Jewelers store exterior
IndependentsApr 22, 2025
Brinker’s Jewelers Acquires Fellow Independent

The Indiana jeweler has acquired Scottsdale Fine Jewelers in Scottsdale, Arizona.

Cartier Exhibition Installation at Victoria & Albert Museum
Events & AwardsApr 21, 2025
An Exhibition Exploring the History of Cartier Is Now on Display

“Cartier: Design, Craft, and Legacy” opened earlier this month at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

Bill and Birdie Levine of Van Cott Jewelers
IndependentsApr 21, 2025
New York Jeweler to Close After 111 Years

Van Cott Jewelers in Vestal, New York, is hosting a going-out-of-business sale.

IJO Director Samantha Larson
IndependentsApr 21, 2025
IJO Names New Director of Vendor Relations, Merchandise Strategy

Industry veteran Samantha Larson has held leadership roles at Borsheims, McTeigue & McClelland, Stuller, and Long’s Jewelers.

Events & AwardsApr 21, 2025
Jewelers of Louisiana, Mississippi Jewelers Association to Co-Host Convention

The two organizations will hold the educational event together this fall in Mississippi.

Daymond John
Events & AwardsApr 18, 2025
Daymond John to Give Keynote at JCK Las Vegas

The entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.

Dukachi Easter Bread Pendant
CollectionsApr 18, 2025
Piece of the Week: Dukachi’s ‘Easter Bread’ Pendant

The Ukrainian brand’s new pendant is modeled after a traditional paska, a pastry often baked for Easter in Eastern European cultures.

Bremer Jewelry
IndependentsApr 18, 2025
Bremer Jewelry to Reveal Renovated Store

The jeweler has announced a grand reopening for its recently remodeled location in Peoria, Illinois.

Tiffany & Co. Strong Like Mom campaign
MajorsApr 18, 2025
Tiffany & Co. Employees Star in Mother’s Day Campaign

The “Strong Like Mom” campaign features moms who work at Tiffany & Co. and their children.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy