CollectionsJul 15, 2025
Boucheron’s New High Jewelry Calls Attention to Nature’s ImpermanenceThe “Impermanence” collection contemplates nature through the Japanese art of Ikebana (flower arranging) and philosophy of wabi-sabi.
EditorsDec 23, 2020
This Is My Favorite Fine Jewelry Collection of the Year
Azlee consistently delivers an irresistible modern sophistication, inspired by the past.
Azlee’s “Modern Byzantine” coin necklaces, sold as charms or on chains, and the emerald bead necklace
In a tumultuous year, many fine jewelry designers took the time to look inward, delving into their creative processes and finding inspiration for new pieces.
Los Angeles-based Azlee, helmed by Baylee Zwart, seemed to hit its stride, interpreting the hottest current jewelry trends, like medallions, detachable and mix-and-match-able charms and chains to hang them on, through its own sophisticated viewpoint.
Los Angeles-based Azlee, helmed by Baylee Zwart, seemed to hit its stride, interpreting the hottest current jewelry trends, like medallions, detachable and mix-and-match-able charms and chains to hang them on, through its own sophisticated viewpoint.
In recent years, Azlee has pared down its core collections, editing out daintier styles while retaining some of its boldest Deco-inspired graphic jewels.
The brand also found a new sweet spot, delving into ancient symbols and reproducing them on gold coin-like medallions.
In 2020 Zwart continued to mine these influences, looking to Ancient Greek, Roman, Sicilian and Spanish cultures and finding new ways to incorporate their symbolism into her collection, like as gold-dipped Venetian glass coins.
Zwart added animals—eagles, lions, owls and dolphins—into the mix, rendering them in gold on discs made of black jade or tiger’s eye.
When it launched about halfway through the last decade, Azlee only featured gold and diamond designs for its first several seasons, but has slowly and thoughtfully incorporated colored gemstones into the collection.
White and brown textured agate beaded necklace with 18-karat yellow gold ($1,100)
Ruby bead necklace with 100 carats of rubies and 18-karat yellow gold ($3,500)
“Modern Byzantine Coin” earrings in 18-karat yellow gold with carré-cut diamonds and moonstone ($6,100)
“Modern Byzantine” emerald and diamond large coin in 18-karat yellow gold ($7,500 with chain)
“Bullet Gold Bar Diamond Earrings” in 18-karat white gold with carré- and bullet-shaped diamonds ($8,100)
“Staircase Necklace” in 18-karat yellow gold with carré-cut diamond ($2,450)
18-karat yellow gold bar necklace ($8,400)
The “Rich Emerald Bead Drop Earrings in 18-karat yellow gold with 22 carats of emerald beads and carré-cut diamonds ($5,900)
“Empress Diamond Staircase Ring” in 18-karat yellow gold with 0.56 carat hexagon diamond ($7,960)
“Staircase Drop Earrings” in 18-karat yellow gold with carré-cut diamonds ($4,570)
“Pegasus” Venetian glass coin and 18-karat yellow gold necklace ($1,950 for charm or $2,550 for necklace)
“Lion Large Amulet” in 18-karat yellow gold with tiger’s eye and diamond ($3,300 for charm, $4,160 for necklace)
“Horizon Agate Diamond Necklace” in 18-karat yellow gold with carré-cut diamonds and agate beads ($17,500)
“Horizon Agate Diamond Hoops” in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds and agate beads ($4,500)
“Staircase Necklace” in 18-karat yellow gold with kite diamond ($4,340)
The brand began with emeralds and in 2020, branching out into many more, like the aforementioned jade and tiger’s eye as well as rubies and unexpectedly delightful agate.
In late 2019 and early 2020 Azlee rolled out medallions inspired by the Byzantine era, featuring cabochon gemstones like rhodolite, emerald, moonstone and black spinel.
They provide the collection a reprieve from symbols, with a cleaner aesthetic that seems to bridge the ancient and Art Deco influences.
Other palette cleansers include gemstone beaded necklaces in agate, tiger’s eye, ruby and emerald, and even a luxurious gold bar bead version.
Azlee’s bespoke bridal business has centered on unique fancy-cut diamonds like kites and shields, and these feature in many new collection pieces as well, like gold bar earrings with carré- (a square step cut) and bullet-shaped diamonds, or as pendants in the new “Staircase” mini-collection, which features various stones framed in levels of gold.
“The collection was inspired by ancient structures with ascending levels and indulgent gemstones of the past,” said Zwart of her latest pieces debuted throughout the year.
“These themes are translated into the layers of gold seen throughout the collection and topped with emeralds, rubies and diamonds. As always, the pieces are sculptural and inspired by the Art Deco era, ancient symbols and female muses.”
Visit the Azlee website to see the designer’s full array.
More on Editors
The Latest
MajorsJul 15, 2025
James Avery Expands to 2 More StatesThe Texas-based jewelry retailer has set up shop in Tennessee and Arizona.
Events & AwardsJul 15, 2025
Neiman Marcus Vet Joins Couture as Brand Director Eric Ford will step into the role, bringing with him decades of experience.
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench JewelersThe Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.
IndependentsJul 15, 2025
Ben Bridge Jeweler Acquires Olympic ManufacturingIn addition to improved capabilities, the acquisition will allow the jeweler to offer support to other independent jewelers.
Weekly QuizJul 10, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CollectionsJul 15, 2025
Guzema Debuts First Colored Gemstone JewelryThe “Celestial Blue” capsule collection campaign features Olympian Kateryna Sadurska.
MajorsJul 14, 2025
Nanis Opens First StoreThe seasonal store, located in Mykonos, Greece, offers exclusive events, personal styling, and curated experiences.
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America is Headed to Las Vegas for JCK 2025The countdown is on for the JCK Las Vegas Show and JA is pulling out all the stops.
IndependentsJul 14, 2025
It’s the Summer of Love at Long’s JewelersThe New England jeweler is hosting a bridal event for the month of August.
SourcingJul 14, 2025
Ethical Gem Fair Heads to SeattleThe trade-only event will host its debut fair in the Emerald City later this month.
Events & AwardsJul 11, 2025
The Edge’s Annual Conference Returns in SeptemberIts sessions will focus on inventory strategies, staff performance, retention and acquisition, emerging market trends, and more.
CollectionsJul 11, 2025
Piece of the Week: Miseno’s ‘Arco’ EarringsFor its 10th anniversary, Miseno designed the “Arco” earrings based on the Arco Felice, an arch conceptualized in A.D. 95 in Miseno, Italy.
Policies & IssuesJul 11, 2025
James Avery to Donate $1M to Texas Hill Country Relief EffortsThe jewelry company is one of several contributing to relief efforts in the region after the recent floods.
TrendsJul 11, 2025
Kelly Osbourne’s Engagement Ring Is Sweet as HoneyInspired by fiancé Sid Wilson’s nickname for her, the white and yellow diamond ring features a unique honeycomb design.
CollectionsJul 10, 2025
Penny Preville Celebrates 5 Decades of Jewelry DesignThe brand is marking its 50th anniversary with a limited-edition bangle, high jewelry suites, new collections, and more.
IndependentsJul 10, 2025
Steven Goldfarb to Retire, Close Alvin Goldfarb JewelerGoldfarb said changes in the industry, coupled with his age and the updates needed to modernize his business, drove his decision.
MajorsJul 10, 2025
LVMH Names New Chairman, CEO of the AmericasLongtime LVMH executive Michael Burke has stepped into the role.
Events & AwardsJul 10, 2025
IAC Gold and Diamond Conference Returns to NYC Central topics of next week’s event include climate action, labor rights, artisan preservation, and value retention in producing countries.
MajorsJul 10, 2025
Hearts On Fire Appoints New Sales DirectorVickie Rokkos has joined the jewelry company as its new national sales director of North America.
SurveysJul 09, 2025
Jewelry Stays Strong as Luxury Market Slows, Bain & Co. Says Turbulence will be the new baseline for luxury as it faces its biggest potential setbacks in 15 years, a recent report said.
Supplier BulletinJul 09, 2025
JCK Unwrapped: Trends, Insights & Post-Show TipsSponsored by Rio Grande Jewelry Supply
CollectionsJul 09, 2025
Cece Jewellery’s New Fruit Jewels Celebrate Life’s SweetnessThe “For the Love of Fruits” collection features five fruit pendants, each holding a different meaning.
SourcingJul 09, 2025
Florida Couple Finds 3-Carat Diamond in ArkansasThey discovered “The Dash Diamond,” named for their dog, at the Crater of Diamonds State Park earlier this month.
CollectionsJul 08, 2025
Mikimoto’s High Jewelry Collection Turns Pearls into PetalsThe “Les Pétales” collection imagines roses caught mid-bloom as a tribute to nature’s beauty.
ColumnistsJul 08, 2025
Peter Smith: Why Jewelers Struggle With Premium PricingLuxury brands charge thousands for their shoes and handbags. Jewelers pricing diamond products should take note, Peter Smith writes.
IndependentsJul 08, 2025
David Rotenberg of David Craig Jewelers Dies at 79Rotenberg was an active member of the American Gem Society and an accomplished appraiser who also worked with therapy dogs at a hospital.
TechnologyJul 08, 2025
‘Diamond Divas’ Brings the Showroom to Social Media Reality SeriesIt follows New York-based brand Shahla Karimi Jewelry’s all-women team in “Say Yes to the Dress” meets “The Office”-style episodes.
