Events & AwardsApr 17, 2024
And the 2024 Winner of the Shipley Award Is … John Carter received the AGS’s highest honor Tuesday afternoon at Conclave in Austin, Texas.
Policies & IssuesJul 15, 2020
BIPOC Designers Have Something to Say to the Industry
An open letter from a group of black, indigenous, and people of color jewelry designers calls for more support, education and equity.
BIPOC designers who signed on to the open letter to the industry include, starting from top left, Andrea Rosales-Balcarcel, Jal Dhanani-Wade, letter author Angely Martinez, CastroNYC, Funlola Coker, Kassandra Lauren Gordon, Latoya Boyd and Lina Krakue (Images courtesy of Angely Martinez/Collage by Shantell Batista)
New York—A group of BIPOC—Black, indigenous, and people of color—jewelry designers have penned an open letter calling for more support and education, and demanding racial equity in the industry.
Authored by New York-based jewelry designer Angely Martinez, the idea for the letter took seed in the weeks following George Floyd’s murder at the hands of Minneapolis police, when protests spread worldwide and forced both businesses and individuals to have conversations about racial inequities.
In the jewelry industry, tensions flared and boiled over during this period, with companies and individuals being boycotted and “canceled”—internet parlance for a collective withdrawal of support, usually of large companies or celebrities—on social media.
Authored by New York-based jewelry designer Angely Martinez, the idea for the letter took seed in the weeks following George Floyd’s murder at the hands of Minneapolis police, when protests spread worldwide and forced both businesses and individuals to have conversations about racial inequities.
In the jewelry industry, tensions flared and boiled over during this period, with companies and individuals being boycotted and “canceled”—internet parlance for a collective withdrawal of support, usually of large companies or celebrities—on social media.
Jewelry designer Angely Martinez
Martinez and designer Jules Kim, founder of Bijules and the Bijules Incubator, decided together the social media battles weren’t going to result in any formative change.
“What happens there [on social media], as we’ve seen, regardless of what the call-out might be, there’s constant back and forth, there’s unregulated conversations, and no call to action can be organized,” Kim observed.
So Martinez reached out to her fellow BIPOC designers and started writing.
She pulled their requests, desires and values into a single document, ultimately giving BIPOC designers a unified, collective voice about the change they want to see and how it can happen.
“We’re not asking for handouts,” Martinez emphasized. “This a very talented group of individuals. Nothing has been given to us. Everything we have, we have worked for and will continue to work for.”
Signed by a total of 29 BIPOC designers based in the U.S. and U.K., the letter lays out the commitments that members of the jewelry industry, from the largest corporations to the smallest companies, can and need to make to ensure long-term equity.
They include:
— Investing in education for BIPOC designers at all levels;
— Increasing the representation of BIPOC-owned businesses in retail shelf space;
— Employing people of color in classrooms, retail sales floors, trade show booths, marketing and merchandising positions, etc.;
— Increasing the presence of BIPOC on committees and boards;
— Continuing to find and support BIPOC designers through media interviews, articles, studio visits, social media, etc.;
— Acknowledging the origins of inspiration from BIPOC cultures, traditions, and historical objects; and
— Supporting the creation of a BIPOC Jewelers Association to protect the designers’ work and future.
Planned as a 501(c)6, Martinez said the association primarily will be led by BIPOC designers, with support from some non-BIPOC members of the industry, and will be for all genders.
Its primary focus will be education, as well as creating grants for both emerging and established BIPOC designers.
“What we’ve been talking a lot about is outreach to high school students,” Martinez said.
She expects the association will take about six to nine months to get off the ground.
In the meantime, Kim said, there’s no need to wait for the nonprofit’s launch in order to act, as there is “a really beautiful roster” of BIPOC designers “itching to create and have their voices heard.”
Specific calls to action outlined in the letter include the following:
— Acting with grace, resolve and leadership, not defensiveness:
— Hosting of ongoing conversations pertaining to equality, equity and opportunity for BIPOC designers;
— Increasing access to raw materials and bench time, pricing strategies, merchandising tools, business marketing and strategy, responsible sourcing and sustainability;
— Including BIPOC into leadership and curatorial positions and establishing funds to create new institutions and opportunities for BIPOC;
— Recognizing racism within, acknowledging systemic racism and working to eliminate it;
— Increasing representation in editorial in industry-specific media outlets; and
— Recognition from major organizations in the industry, and a commitment to these actions.
To read the letter in its entirety or sign it to become more involved, click here.
For more information on the designers and their letter, or to get involved with or stay informed about these efforts, email jewelryindustrytaskforce@gmail.com.
“What we’ve been talking a lot about is outreach to high school students,” Martinez said.
She expects the association will take about six to nine months to get off the ground.
In the meantime, Kim said, there’s no need to wait for the nonprofit’s launch in order to act, as there is “a really beautiful roster” of BIPOC designers “itching to create and have their voices heard.”
Specific calls to action outlined in the letter include the following:
— Acting with grace, resolve and leadership, not defensiveness:
— Hosting of ongoing conversations pertaining to equality, equity and opportunity for BIPOC designers;
— Increasing access to raw materials and bench time, pricing strategies, merchandising tools, business marketing and strategy, responsible sourcing and sustainability;
— Including BIPOC into leadership and curatorial positions and establishing funds to create new institutions and opportunities for BIPOC;
— Recognizing racism within, acknowledging systemic racism and working to eliminate it;
— Increasing representation in editorial in industry-specific media outlets; and
— Recognition from major organizations in the industry, and a commitment to these actions.
To read the letter in its entirety or sign it to become more involved, click here.
For more information on the designers and their letter, or to get involved with or stay informed about these efforts, email jewelryindustrytaskforce@gmail.com.
More on Policies & Issues
The Latest
FinancialsApr 17, 2024
LVMH’s Q1 Jewelry Sales Fall 5%LVMH said the company performed well despite an uncertain geopolitical and economic environment.
MajorsApr 17, 2024
Stuller’s B&D Opens New HeadquartersB&D Sales and Service held a ribbon-cutting event for its new location in Cranston, Rhode Island.
Brought to you by
The Blueprint for Success in Scalable, Personalized Jewelry RetailWith Ho Brothers, you can unlock your brand's true potential and offer customers the personalized jewelry experiences they desire.
CollectionsApr 16, 2024
Akaila Reid Launches ‘Eat Cake’ CollectionIt’s ultra-feminine and filled with gold, pearls, and soft pastels.
Weekly QuizApr 11, 2024
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge with this seven-question quiz.
MajorsApr 16, 2024
Loudr Adds 2 DirectorsEmily Highet Morgan and Emily Bennett have joined the agency’s team.
MajorsApr 16, 2024
Stuller Releases First Lab-Grown Diamond Jewelry CatalogIts updated book for mountings is also now available.
Brought to you by
How Jewelers of America Represents Your BusinessFor over 30 years, JA has advocated for the industry, fought against harmful legislation and backed measures that help jewelry businesses.
SourcingApr 16, 2024
Karen Rentmeesters Takes Over as Interim CEO of AWDCShe has been with the organization since 2010, most recently serving as its chief officer of PR and industry relations.
TechnologyApr 15, 2024
Judge Rules Jeweler’s Lawsuit Against PNC Bank Can Move ForwardJoyce’s Jewelry sued the bank after cybercriminals drained its accounts of nearly $1.6 million through a series of wire transfers.
IndependentsApr 15, 2024
Alfred W. DeScenza of DeScenza Diamonds Dies at 95He is remembered by loved ones for his loyalty, integrity, and kindness.
AuctionsApr 15, 2024
Madeleine K. Albright Jewelry, Pins Coming to AuctionHosted by Freeman’s | Hindman, the sale will take place May 7-8.
AuctionsApr 15, 2024
All of Sotheby’s ‘Rough Diamonds’ Sold in Less Than an HourThe auction house said all 24 timepieces offered in its underground sale of rare and avant-garde watches quickly found buyers.
Events & AwardsApr 15, 2024
10 Can’t-Miss Sessions at AGS Conclave 2024From lab-grown diamonds and AI to the inevitable Taylor Swift mention, here are some of Conclave’s most intriguing educational offerings.
Recorded WebinarsApr 12, 2024
Watch: What Jewelers Need to Know About InsuranceFrom cybersecurity liability to trade show coverage, insurance experts share tips on how to build the right policy.
CollectionsApr 12, 2024
Piece of the Week: Lionheart’s Evil Eye Gemstone CharmThe charm is a modern rendition of the evil eye amulet that has been worn for thousands of years.
Events & AwardsApr 12, 2024
The Jewelry Symposium Announces 4 Scholarship WinnersAhead of its trade show next month, TJS awarded free registration and accommodations to one jewelry professional and three students.
Lab-GrownApr 11, 2024
AGTA Bans Lab-Grown Diamonds, Gemstones at GemFairMembers can still sell lab-grown stones, it said, but only natural gems are allowed on the show floor.
IndependentsApr 11, 2024
Steven Rosdal, Co-Founder of Hyde Park Jewelers, Dies at 77He is remembered for his charisma, passion, integrity, kindness, and wit.
MajorsApr 11, 2024
Macy’s Opens Books for Possible BuyoutThe retailer also appointed two new board members, avoiding a proxy fight from a potential buyer.
CollectionsApr 10, 2024
Sylvie Launches New Nature-Inspired Collection, ‘Tulira’The bridal collection consists of 35 engagement rings and seven wedding bands.
WatchesApr 10, 2024
These Are Rolex’s New Watches for 2024 The crown introduced a dozen timepieces in Geneva, including a heavy metal version of its deep-sea divers’ watch.
IndependentsApr 10, 2024
Levy's Fine Jewelry Explores Diamond History The family-owned jeweler has a new education section on its website dedicated to the history of diamond cutting.
CollectionsApr 10, 2024
With Clarity Partners With NFL on Wedding Bands The limited-edition men’s rings can be customized with one of 12 team logos.
SourcingApr 10, 2024
Compliance, Caution, and Concern: The Current Outlook of Indian Diamantaires There is a willingness to comply with new government-mandated regulations, with an insistence that they should be practical and realistic.
WatchesApr 09, 2024
Chrono24 Debuts Pre-Owned Watch Authentication ProgramThe program, now live in Europe, will roll out to the U.S. this summer.
AuctionsApr 09, 2024
Phillips to Offer 6.21-Carat Vivid Pink DiamondColored gemstones and signed jewels are the focus of its upcoming Geneva sale.
