CollectionsJul 09, 2026
Boucheron’s New High Jewelry Collection Is an Ode to the Human Touch“Human Being” highlights the similarities and differences between us through five sets of jewelry that celebrate fine craftsmanship.
Policies & IssuesJul 15, 2020
BIPOC Designers Have Something to Say to the Industry
An open letter from a group of black, indigenous, and people of color jewelry designers calls for more support, education and equity.
BIPOC designers who signed on to the open letter to the industry include, starting from top left, Andrea Rosales-Balcarcel, Jal Dhanani-Wade, letter author Angely Martinez, CastroNYC, Funlola Coker, Kassandra Lauren Gordon, Latoya Boyd and Lina Krakue (Images courtesy of Angely Martinez/Collage by Shantell Batista)
New York—A group of BIPOC—Black, indigenous, and people of color—jewelry designers have penned an open letter calling for more support and education, and demanding racial equity in the industry.
Authored by New York-based jewelry designer Angely Martinez, the idea for the letter took seed in the weeks following George Floyd’s murder at the hands of Minneapolis police, when protests spread worldwide and forced both businesses and individuals to have conversations about racial inequities.
In the jewelry industry, tensions flared and boiled over during this period, with companies and individuals being boycotted and “canceled”—internet parlance for a collective withdrawal of support, usually of large companies or celebrities—on social media.
Authored by New York-based jewelry designer Angely Martinez, the idea for the letter took seed in the weeks following George Floyd’s murder at the hands of Minneapolis police, when protests spread worldwide and forced both businesses and individuals to have conversations about racial inequities.
In the jewelry industry, tensions flared and boiled over during this period, with companies and individuals being boycotted and “canceled”—internet parlance for a collective withdrawal of support, usually of large companies or celebrities—on social media.
Jewelry designer Angely Martinez
Martinez and designer Jules Kim, founder of Bijules and the Bijules Incubator, decided together the social media battles weren’t going to result in any formative change.
“What happens there [on social media], as we’ve seen, regardless of what the call-out might be, there’s constant back and forth, there’s unregulated conversations, and no call to action can be organized,” Kim observed.
So Martinez reached out to her fellow BIPOC designers and started writing.
She pulled their requests, desires and values into a single document, ultimately giving BIPOC designers a unified, collective voice about the change they want to see and how it can happen.
“We’re not asking for handouts,” Martinez emphasized. “This a very talented group of individuals. Nothing has been given to us. Everything we have, we have worked for and will continue to work for.”
Signed by a total of 29 BIPOC designers based in the U.S. and U.K., the letter lays out the commitments that members of the jewelry industry, from the largest corporations to the smallest companies, can and need to make to ensure long-term equity.
They include:
— Investing in education for BIPOC designers at all levels;
— Increasing the representation of BIPOC-owned businesses in retail shelf space;
— Employing people of color in classrooms, retail sales floors, trade show booths, marketing and merchandising positions, etc.;
— Increasing the presence of BIPOC on committees and boards;
— Continuing to find and support BIPOC designers through media interviews, articles, studio visits, social media, etc.;
— Acknowledging the origins of inspiration from BIPOC cultures, traditions, and historical objects; and
— Supporting the creation of a BIPOC Jewelers Association to protect the designers’ work and future.
Planned as a 501(c)6, Martinez said the association primarily will be led by BIPOC designers, with support from some non-BIPOC members of the industry, and will be for all genders.
Its primary focus will be education, as well as creating grants for both emerging and established BIPOC designers.
“What we’ve been talking a lot about is outreach to high school students,” Martinez said.
She expects the association will take about six to nine months to get off the ground.
In the meantime, Kim said, there’s no need to wait for the nonprofit’s launch in order to act, as there is “a really beautiful roster” of BIPOC designers “itching to create and have their voices heard.”
Specific calls to action outlined in the letter include the following:
— Acting with grace, resolve and leadership, not defensiveness:
— Hosting of ongoing conversations pertaining to equality, equity and opportunity for BIPOC designers;
— Increasing access to raw materials and bench time, pricing strategies, merchandising tools, business marketing and strategy, responsible sourcing and sustainability;
— Including BIPOC into leadership and curatorial positions and establishing funds to create new institutions and opportunities for BIPOC;
— Recognizing racism within, acknowledging systemic racism and working to eliminate it;
— Increasing representation in editorial in industry-specific media outlets; and
— Recognition from major organizations in the industry, and a commitment to these actions.
To read the letter in its entirety or sign it to become more involved, click here.
For more information on the designers and their letter, or to get involved with or stay informed about these efforts, email jewelryindustrytaskforce@gmail.com.
“What we’ve been talking a lot about is outreach to high school students,” Martinez said.
She expects the association will take about six to nine months to get off the ground.
In the meantime, Kim said, there’s no need to wait for the nonprofit’s launch in order to act, as there is “a really beautiful roster” of BIPOC designers “itching to create and have their voices heard.”
Specific calls to action outlined in the letter include the following:
— Acting with grace, resolve and leadership, not defensiveness:
— Hosting of ongoing conversations pertaining to equality, equity and opportunity for BIPOC designers;
— Increasing access to raw materials and bench time, pricing strategies, merchandising tools, business marketing and strategy, responsible sourcing and sustainability;
— Including BIPOC into leadership and curatorial positions and establishing funds to create new institutions and opportunities for BIPOC;
— Recognizing racism within, acknowledging systemic racism and working to eliminate it;
— Increasing representation in editorial in industry-specific media outlets; and
— Recognition from major organizations in the industry, and a commitment to these actions.
To read the letter in its entirety or sign it to become more involved, click here.
For more information on the designers and their letter, or to get involved with or stay informed about these efforts, email jewelryindustrytaskforce@gmail.com.
More on Policies & Issues
The Latest
WatchesJul 09, 2026
Damiani Group Finalizes Acquisition of Baume & MercierRichemont will continue to provide operational services for the watch brand for a period while the group prepares to integrate it.
AuctionsJul 09, 2026
Pharrell Williams’ Joopiter Hires Former Bonhams Exec to Head New Watch DivisionNate Borgelt will lead the digital auction house and content platform’s new division as head of watches.
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center StageColored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.
Events & AwardsJul 09, 2026
Halstead Names 2026 Grant WinnerEnoch Platero, founder and designer behind Enoch Michael, is the first Native American jeweler to win the award.
Weekly QuizJul 01, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Events & AwardsJul 09, 2026
AGS, GIA Name 2026 Beatrice Shipley Scholarship WinnerAGS also announced the recipient of its “Women in Leadership” scholarship.
MajorsJul 08, 2026
Kendra Scott Joins ‘Shark Tank’ As Permanent Investor The founder of the billion-dollar jewelry and lifestyle brand will debut as a full-time “Shark” on the upcoming season of the show.
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce SolutionsDCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.
SurveysJul 08, 2026
Signet Jewelers Falls 5 Spots on NRF’s ‘Top 100’ Retailers ListPlus, why retailers should be ready to adjust as the U.S. population may decline this year for the first time since the Great Depression.
CrimeJul 08, 2026
Here’s What Thieves Stole From the Lalique Museum René Lalique’s “Woman Dragonfly With Open Wings” pendant, the first piece the museum acquired, was one of the jewels taken.
MajorsJul 08, 2026
Richline Group Promotes 2 ExecsArien Gessner and Moss Makhoulian have been elevated into newly created roles.
ColumnistsJul 07, 2026
Peter Smith: Diamond Branding and the Origin ParadoxA podcast prompted Smith to share his views on where origin fits into the natural diamond story and the viability of branded diamonds.
Events & AwardsJul 07, 2026
JA Announces 2026 Impact Initiative RecipientsThe association selected eight recipients for the funding program, which is in its second year.
TrendsJul 07, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Ruby, White and Blue Whether celebrating America’s 250th birthday or the USA’s World Cup run, July birthstone jewelry can double as a patriotic accessory.
CrimeJul 07, 2026
Thieves Steal Millions in Jewels From France’s Musée LaliqueAround 20 pieces of jewelry were stolen from the museum dedicated to French jeweler and glassmaker René Lalique.
CollectionsJul 07, 2026
Robinson Pelham Is Partying Like It’s 1996The “Summer of ’96” campaign and collection celebrate the year the brand was founded for its 30th anniversary.
SourcingJul 06, 2026
Gemfields CEO Sean Gilbertson Steps DownAfter eight years, Gilbertson is leaving his post at the mining company, which is currently facing a slew of operational challenges.
IndependentsJul 06, 2026
Bachendorf’s To Open Fifth Store In DallasThe new location is set to open this winter, featuring the retailer’s first rotating jewelry designer residency.
MajorsJul 06, 2026
Graff Names BTS Star Jung Kook as New AmbassadorThe pop artist appears in the latest campaign for the “Laurence Graff Signature” collection.
CollectionsJul 06, 2026
Pandora’s New Baroque Pearl Collection Is a Whimsical ‘Wonder’One-of-a-kind pearls take the shape of ice cream cones, frogs, submarines, and other imaginative charms.
SourcingJul 02, 2026
London Diamond Bourse Elects First Female PresidentCharlotte Rose said her election is “a sign that this is an industry capable of change.”
Supplier BulletinJul 02, 2026
Elevating Retail Showcases with Today's Necklace & Bracelet TrendsSponsored by Rio Grande Jewelry Supply
TrendsJul 02, 2026
Oscar Heyman’s Flag Brooch Celebrates AmericaThe American jewelry house, founded by Latvian immigrants, has been creating American flag brooches since 1917.
IndependentsJul 02, 2026
D. Geller & Son Partners with KSU Art Students on Store MuralThe artwork celebrates the Atlanta jeweler’s legacy and symbolizes its commitment to supporting local artists and its community.
Events & AwardsJul 02, 2026
Stratus Estate Buyers Offers Jewelers Turnkey Buying EventsIts team can evaluate jewelry and watches, as well as luxury handbags, artwork, and collectibles.
SurveysJul 01, 2026
Consumer Confidence Ticks Up in JuneFalling oil prices were a factor in the slight month-over-month improvement.
CollectionsJul 01, 2026
Rio Grande Launches First Finished Bridal CollectionThe new offering comprises more than 120 bridal and engagement ring styles with natural and lab-grown diamonds.
