IndependentsJun 05, 2026
Pennsylvania Jewelry Store To Close After 79 YearsJim Springer, owner of Dunkelberger’s Fine Jewelry, is heading into retirement.
Policies & IssuesApr 15, 2019
From Conclave: FTC Do’s and Don’ts Beyond Lab-Grown Diamonds
From pearl treatments to composite gemstones, Tiffany Stevens and Sara Yood of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee shared tips on how to comply with the revised Jewelry Guides.
New York—When the Federal Trade Commission debuted the revised Jewelry Guides in July, the new regulations around lab-grown diamonds were the talk of the industry.
The recent warning letters sent to eight companies regarding their advertisements for lab-grown diamond jewelry and diamond simulants have reignited the discussion, but there are other changes to the guides that warrant attention.
Jewelers Vigilance Committee CEO Tiffany Stevens and Senior Counsel Sara Yood held a session Wednesday at AGS Conclave in Seattle to break down all the changes to the Jewelry Guides.
“We just want to make sure everyone knows what their responsibilities are,” Stevens said.
She noted that while the guidelines are not technically laws, not adhering to them could lead to lawsuits from the FTC or competitors, or even class-action lawsuits from consumers.
Here a few tips and tricks to keep jewelers in compliance.
Be Upfront With Plating
Under the new guidelines, jewelers are required to disclose if a piece of jewelry has been plated with rhodium, platinum or silver. When using rhodium plating, the seller has to assure the durability of the coating.
Yood recommended applying the “reasonable person standard”—meaning the plating will last as long as your average customer would expect—and always disclosing plating to the customer in writing.
Be Mindful of Metal Minimums
There is no longer a 10-karat minimum threshold for gold, meaning 8-karat or below can be labeled gold in the United States.
However, the fineness needs to be disclosed for anything under 24-karat gold.
While there is no minimum threshold for silver, the fineness must be disclosed and a piece must be at least .925 ppt silver to be called “sterling” silver.
If a piece contains more than one precious metal, the predominant metal should be listed first in the description or described in a way that makes it clear.
For example, if a necklace is mostly silver with 14-karat gold accents, the JVC’s presentation suggested describing it as “sterling +14K” or “14-karat gold accented sterling silver.”
Disclose All Pearl Treatments
While not mentioned in previous editions, there is a section in the revised Jewelry Guides about pearl treatments.
A pearl treatment has to be disclosed if the treatment is not permanent, requires special care or significantly affects the value of the pearl, such as dyeing.
The guidelines also recommend explaining any special care requirements a customer would need to know.
Be Clear About Composite Gemstone Products
Disclosure is important when describing products made with gemstone material and filler, such as glass or a polymer.
The recent warning letters sent to eight companies regarding their advertisements for lab-grown diamond jewelry and diamond simulants have reignited the discussion, but there are other changes to the guides that warrant attention.
Jewelers Vigilance Committee CEO Tiffany Stevens and Senior Counsel Sara Yood held a session Wednesday at AGS Conclave in Seattle to break down all the changes to the Jewelry Guides.
“We just want to make sure everyone knows what their responsibilities are,” Stevens said.
She noted that while the guidelines are not technically laws, not adhering to them could lead to lawsuits from the FTC or competitors, or even class-action lawsuits from consumers.
Here a few tips and tricks to keep jewelers in compliance.
Be Upfront With Plating
Under the new guidelines, jewelers are required to disclose if a piece of jewelry has been plated with rhodium, platinum or silver. When using rhodium plating, the seller has to assure the durability of the coating.
Yood recommended applying the “reasonable person standard”—meaning the plating will last as long as your average customer would expect—and always disclosing plating to the customer in writing.
Be Mindful of Metal Minimums
There is no longer a 10-karat minimum threshold for gold, meaning 8-karat or below can be labeled gold in the United States.
However, the fineness needs to be disclosed for anything under 24-karat gold.
While there is no minimum threshold for silver, the fineness must be disclosed and a piece must be at least .925 ppt silver to be called “sterling” silver.
If a piece contains more than one precious metal, the predominant metal should be listed first in the description or described in a way that makes it clear.
For example, if a necklace is mostly silver with 14-karat gold accents, the JVC’s presentation suggested describing it as “sterling +14K” or “14-karat gold accented sterling silver.”
Disclose All Pearl Treatments
While not mentioned in previous editions, there is a section in the revised Jewelry Guides about pearl treatments.
A pearl treatment has to be disclosed if the treatment is not permanent, requires special care or significantly affects the value of the pearl, such as dyeing.
The guidelines also recommend explaining any special care requirements a customer would need to know.
Be Clear About Composite Gemstone Products
Disclosure is important when describing products made with gemstone material and filler, such as glass or a polymer.
Stay away from calling these products “lab-created” or “lab-grown,” or referring to them as “treated” gemstones.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
Instead, call it a composite gemstone, hybrid gemstone or a manufactured gemstone.
For example, a seller could describe a lead-glass filled ruby as “composite ruby, lead-glass filled, special care required.”
Also, be careful not to get too creative with varietal naming, the JVC warned in its presentation. It would be considered deceptive to describe golden beryl as a “yellow emerald” or prasiolite as “green amethyst.”
Handmade Products Must Be Made Entirely By Hand
While this might seem obvious, the guides are specific about what it means to say a product is “handmade.”
If a jewelry designer uses CAD software to create a piece, then that’s not considered handmade.
In order to say a product is handmade, the “entire shaping and forming of such product from raw materials and its finishing and decoration were accomplished by hand labor,” the FTC Jewelry Guides state.
If a seller wants to tout something special about a piece that was partially handmade, boast about the specific part of the process that was done manually, such as hand-set or hand-engraved, advised Yood.
A Hashtag Is Not Disclosure
Social media is an indispensable advertising tool for most companies, but sellers need to be mindful of their descriptions on platforms like Facebook and Instagram.
It might be helpful to look back on old social media posts as well to be sure they’re all up to standard, Yood said.
Definitely share that gorgeous ring photo, she said, but understand that “#LabGrownDiamond” is not sufficient disclosure. Give as much detail about the piece as possible.
Eco-Friendly Claims Must Be Backed Up
The recent FTC warning letters mentioned that companies can’t play fast and loose with calling themselves “eco-friendly.” It’s not a throwaway term and needs to be backed up with data, advised JVC.
The FTC has an entirely separate set of guidelines for environmental claims, the “Green Guides.” They apply to all advertising, and the jewelry industry is no exception.
Jewelers with additional questions or concerns about the revised guidelines can visit the JVC’s website for more information about compliance.
More on Policies & Issues
The Latest
SurveysJun 05, 2026
Consumers to Cut Back on Spending Amid Rising Prices, Survey Shows When conducting its May consumer confidence survey, The Conference Board asked extra questions about consumers’ budgeting strategies.
CollectionsJun 05, 2026
Rebel Jewelry’s Charm Symbolizes Perseverance for Pride MonthThe “Tunnel” charm, our Piece of the Week, celebrates Pride Month with its design inspired by hope and the light at the end of the tunnel.
Brought to you by
All Eyes on Gold Prices. Alternatives to Look For. And What to BEWARE of in VegasAs gold prices rise, today’s retailers are looking for alternatives at prices that will appeal to wider audiences.
SourcingJun 05, 2026
State of Diamonds: The Way Forward for Natural DiamondsThe jewelry industry is reassessing its positioning as Gen Z reshapes the retail landscape and lab grown continues to gain market share.
Weekly QuizJun 05, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
AuctionsJun 04, 2026
Treasures from Maurice Tempelsman’s ‘Marvelous’ Life Head to AuctionUp for auction at Sotheby’s, the collection of Tempelsman’s personal effects includes a Cartier Tank watch Jackie O. gifted him.
CollectionsJun 04, 2026
Buddha Mama to Spend the Summer in AspenThe Miami-based fine jewelry brand will host its first summer residency in the Colorado mountain town from June 5 to Aug. 23.
Brought to you by
How Modern Training Is Becoming a Competitive Advantage for Jewelry RetailersWith the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.
MajorsJun 04, 2026
AGS Honors Late Peter Yantzer, Holds Time Capsule CeremonyThe organization also announced its international board of directors for the 2026-2027 term.
MajorsJun 04, 2026
Neiman Marcus’ Downtown Dallas Store to Close in SeptemberSaks Global confirmed the closure this week, spelling the end for a store that’s been part of downtown Dallas for more than 100 years.
ColumnistsJun 03, 2026
Peter Smith: When Top Talent Leaves and What It Says About YouSmith discusses how managers should handle a top performer's exit, warning that a poor response could have a lasting impact.
GradingJun 03, 2026
GIA’s Tracr Investment Is First Step Toward Industry-Owned PlatformThe Gemological Institute of America is now a 30 percent stakeholder in Tracr, the De Beers-backed blockchain for diamonds.
WatchesJun 03, 2026
The 1916 Company Taking Pre-Owned Rolexes on the Road, AgainThe retailer is bringing Rolex Certified Pre-Owned watches to five U.S. cities in 2026 for collectors to see, try on, and purchase.
IndependentsJun 03, 2026
Jessica Alba Is the New Face of Gabriel & Co.The actress and entrepreneur stars in the jeweler’s new campaign that celebrates life’s quiet moments.
TrendsJun 03, 2026
State of Design: Only the Innovative Will SurviveThe price of gold has risen, affecting the number of pieces designers make, the materials they use, and how they position themselves.
FinancialsJun 02, 2026
Signet Jewelers’ Q1 Sales Up 2% As It Focuses on ‘Core Four’ The jewelry retailer is zeroing in on Zales, Jared, Kay Jewelers, and Blue Nile as it looks to create unique brand identities for each.
SourcingJun 02, 2026
Leader Appointed for Botswana’s Diamonds for Development Fund Dr. Akinwumi Adesina, a development economist, will head the fund created to help Botswana diversify its economy.
WatchesJun 02, 2026
Watch Industry Veteran James Marks Joins Sotheby’sSotheby’s has appointed the former Phillips executive as its global head of private sales and retail in its watches division.
AuctionsJun 02, 2026
Sotheby’s to Auction 10-Carat Blue Diamond, 1960s Harry Winston Necklace A private collection of five Paraíba tourmalines also will be up for sale at Sotheby’s High Jewelry auction in New York, scheduled for June 16.
IndependentsJun 02, 2026
State of Retail: 6 Things Retailers Should Know About Consumers TodayFrom Gen Z’s view of luxury to “doom spending,” these are the six consumer trends to note this year.
Events & AwardsJun 01, 2026
Design Atelier Brands Have a Big Night at Emotional Couture Design AwardsThe show started by honoring Mildred Marcano, ended with a tearful Beth Anne Bonanno, and recognized a dozen-plus designers in between.
SourcingJun 01, 2026
RapNet Rebranding as Rapaport TradeThe revamped online diamond marketplace will feature pricing intelligence and data-driven tools for more efficient buying and selling.
SourcingJun 01, 2026
Gemfields’ Higher-Quality Emerald Auction Achieves $26.8MThe miner said demand for higher-quality emeralds is stable, but there is notable caution in the market.
CollectionsMay 29, 2026
Cultus Artem’s Necklace Is the Oasis in Las Vegas’ DesertThe “River of Heaven” necklace, our Piece of the Week debuting at Couture, combines 26 salt and pepper diamonds spaced by Tahitian pearls.
IndependentsMay 29, 2026
Meet the 2026 Retailer Hall of Fame InducteesThis year’s inductees include second-, third-, and fourth-generation jewelers.
Events & AwardsMay 28, 2026
JCK Announces Jesse Itzler as 2026 Keynote SpeakerThe author, speaker, and entrepreneur will give his presentation, “Spiritual Billionaire,” on Saturday morning.
Events & AwardsMay 28, 2026
JCK Rocks To Ride With NellyThree-time Grammy award-winning artist Nelly is set to perform at the annual event at Tao Beach on Sunday night.
