MajorsApr 01, 2026
Foundrae Sues Pandora for Allegedly Copying Its Medallion DesignsFoundrae also accused the jewelry giant of copying its mood board style of marketing.
Policies & IssuesApr 15, 2019
From Conclave: FTC Do’s and Don’ts Beyond Lab-Grown Diamonds
From pearl treatments to composite gemstones, Tiffany Stevens and Sara Yood of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee shared tips on how to comply with the revised Jewelry Guides.
New York—When the Federal Trade Commission debuted the revised Jewelry Guides in July, the new regulations around lab-grown diamonds were the talk of the industry.
The recent warning letters sent to eight companies regarding their advertisements for lab-grown diamond jewelry and diamond simulants have reignited the discussion, but there are other changes to the guides that warrant attention.
Jewelers Vigilance Committee CEO Tiffany Stevens and Senior Counsel Sara Yood held a session Wednesday at AGS Conclave in Seattle to break down all the changes to the Jewelry Guides.
“We just want to make sure everyone knows what their responsibilities are,” Stevens said.
She noted that while the guidelines are not technically laws, not adhering to them could lead to lawsuits from the FTC or competitors, or even class-action lawsuits from consumers.
Here a few tips and tricks to keep jewelers in compliance.
Be Upfront With Plating
Under the new guidelines, jewelers are required to disclose if a piece of jewelry has been plated with rhodium, platinum or silver. When using rhodium plating, the seller has to assure the durability of the coating.
Yood recommended applying the “reasonable person standard”—meaning the plating will last as long as your average customer would expect—and always disclosing plating to the customer in writing.
Be Mindful of Metal Minimums
There is no longer a 10-karat minimum threshold for gold, meaning 8-karat or below can be labeled gold in the United States.
However, the fineness needs to be disclosed for anything under 24-karat gold.
While there is no minimum threshold for silver, the fineness must be disclosed and a piece must be at least .925 ppt silver to be called “sterling” silver.
If a piece contains more than one precious metal, the predominant metal should be listed first in the description or described in a way that makes it clear.
For example, if a necklace is mostly silver with 14-karat gold accents, the JVC’s presentation suggested describing it as “sterling +14K” or “14-karat gold accented sterling silver.”
Disclose All Pearl Treatments
While not mentioned in previous editions, there is a section in the revised Jewelry Guides about pearl treatments.
A pearl treatment has to be disclosed if the treatment is not permanent, requires special care or significantly affects the value of the pearl, such as dyeing.
The guidelines also recommend explaining any special care requirements a customer would need to know.
Be Clear About Composite Gemstone Products
Disclosure is important when describing products made with gemstone material and filler, such as glass or a polymer.
The recent warning letters sent to eight companies regarding their advertisements for lab-grown diamond jewelry and diamond simulants have reignited the discussion, but there are other changes to the guides that warrant attention.
Jewelers Vigilance Committee CEO Tiffany Stevens and Senior Counsel Sara Yood held a session Wednesday at AGS Conclave in Seattle to break down all the changes to the Jewelry Guides.
“We just want to make sure everyone knows what their responsibilities are,” Stevens said.
She noted that while the guidelines are not technically laws, not adhering to them could lead to lawsuits from the FTC or competitors, or even class-action lawsuits from consumers.
Here a few tips and tricks to keep jewelers in compliance.
Be Upfront With Plating
Under the new guidelines, jewelers are required to disclose if a piece of jewelry has been plated with rhodium, platinum or silver. When using rhodium plating, the seller has to assure the durability of the coating.
Yood recommended applying the “reasonable person standard”—meaning the plating will last as long as your average customer would expect—and always disclosing plating to the customer in writing.
Be Mindful of Metal Minimums
There is no longer a 10-karat minimum threshold for gold, meaning 8-karat or below can be labeled gold in the United States.
However, the fineness needs to be disclosed for anything under 24-karat gold.
While there is no minimum threshold for silver, the fineness must be disclosed and a piece must be at least .925 ppt silver to be called “sterling” silver.
If a piece contains more than one precious metal, the predominant metal should be listed first in the description or described in a way that makes it clear.
For example, if a necklace is mostly silver with 14-karat gold accents, the JVC’s presentation suggested describing it as “sterling +14K” or “14-karat gold accented sterling silver.”
Disclose All Pearl Treatments
While not mentioned in previous editions, there is a section in the revised Jewelry Guides about pearl treatments.
A pearl treatment has to be disclosed if the treatment is not permanent, requires special care or significantly affects the value of the pearl, such as dyeing.
The guidelines also recommend explaining any special care requirements a customer would need to know.
Be Clear About Composite Gemstone Products
Disclosure is important when describing products made with gemstone material and filler, such as glass or a polymer.
Stay away from calling these products “lab-created” or “lab-grown,” or referring to them as “treated” gemstones.
Instead, call it a composite gemstone, hybrid gemstone or a manufactured gemstone.
For example, a seller could describe a lead-glass filled ruby as “composite ruby, lead-glass filled, special care required.”
Also, be careful not to get too creative with varietal naming, the JVC warned in its presentation. It would be considered deceptive to describe golden beryl as a “yellow emerald” or prasiolite as “green amethyst.”
Handmade Products Must Be Made Entirely By Hand
While this might seem obvious, the guides are specific about what it means to say a product is “handmade.”
If a jewelry designer uses CAD software to create a piece, then that’s not considered handmade.
In order to say a product is handmade, the “entire shaping and forming of such product from raw materials and its finishing and decoration were accomplished by hand labor,” the FTC Jewelry Guides state.
If a seller wants to tout something special about a piece that was partially handmade, boast about the specific part of the process that was done manually, such as hand-set or hand-engraved, advised Yood.
A Hashtag Is Not Disclosure
Social media is an indispensable advertising tool for most companies, but sellers need to be mindful of their descriptions on platforms like Facebook and Instagram.
It might be helpful to look back on old social media posts as well to be sure they’re all up to standard, Yood said.
Definitely share that gorgeous ring photo, she said, but understand that “#LabGrownDiamond” is not sufficient disclosure. Give as much detail about the piece as possible.
Eco-Friendly Claims Must Be Backed Up
The recent FTC warning letters mentioned that companies can’t play fast and loose with calling themselves “eco-friendly.” It’s not a throwaway term and needs to be backed up with data, advised JVC.
The FTC has an entirely separate set of guidelines for environmental claims, the “Green Guides.” They apply to all advertising, and the jewelry industry is no exception.
Jewelers with additional questions or concerns about the revised guidelines can visit the JVC’s website for more information about compliance.
More on Policies & Issues
The Latest
AuctionsApr 01, 2026
John Jacob Astor IV’s Titanic Pocket Watch Heads to AuctionA Patek Philippe for Tiffany & Co. timepiece owned by the American businessman who died on the Titanic will be offered at Freeman's Chicago.
SurveysApr 01, 2026
Consumers’ Outlook Improves Again in MarchThe Conference Board’s Consumer Confidence Index edged up, with optimism about the present outweighing worries about the future.
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your BusinessYou deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.
IndependentsApr 01, 2026
Zachary’s Jewelers’ Constance Polamalu to Release Children’s BookThe retailer’s Zach Bear gift comes to life in “Zach Bear and the Window Necklace,” which centers on curiosity, bravery, and helping.
Weekly QuizMar 26, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Events & AwardsApr 01, 2026
AGA Opens 2026 Gemological Scholarship, Research Grant ApplicationsApplications are open for the AGA Gemological Scholarship Program through May 15, and until June 2027 for the Gemological Research Grant.
ColumnistsMar 31, 2026
Q1 Clues That Reveal Where Your Jewelry Store’s Sales Are Heading These customer behavior patterns say a lot about how successful your jewelry store is going to be this year, Emmanuel Raheb writes.
Brought to you by
Is This You? Every Jeweler Has This Problem; We Have the Solution.Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.
CollectionsMar 31, 2026
Mejuri Adds Silver to ‘Puzzle’ CollectionMejuri’s popular collection of 18-karat yellow gold vermeil rings debuted in sterling silver alongside new “Puzzle” slider charms.
CollectionsMar 31, 2026
Buddha Mama, Ashley Longshore to Host Pop-Up in DallasThe Miami-based jewelry brand and the NYC-based artist will be in Dallas from April 9-11.
SourcingMar 31, 2026
NDC Designates April 8 as 'World Diamond Day'The initiative invites those in the industry to share stories on social media highlighting the meaning and impact of natural diamonds.
SourcingMar 31, 2026
GIA VP Jillian Wolk to Take Over at Tracr Wolk’s first day on the job as CEO of Tracr, De Beers Group’s blockchain platform, will be May 1.
EditorsMar 30, 2026
Tom Moses Looks Back on His Decades at GIA Moses, who will leave the lab in May after nearly 50 years, discusses his start in the business, gemstones that stand out, and what’s next.
TrendsMar 30, 2026
Oscar Heyman Debuts First Spring CatalogThe new catalog, which showcases 35 one-of-a-kind pieces of jewelry, is a compliment to the company’s popular holiday catalog.
SourcingMar 30, 2026
Rio Tinto Hauls Last Load from DiavikProduction has ceased at the Canadian diamond mine, which has yielded more than 150 million carats of rough diamonds in its 23-year run.
MajorsMar 30, 2026
Tanishq Opens First New England LocationThe store opening marks the 10th United States location for the India-based jewelry retailer.
MajorsMar 27, 2026
Saks Global Has Changed Its Mind About Closing These 3 StoresTwo Saks Fifth Avenue locations, one in Florida and one in California, and one Neiman Marcus store are off the chopping block.
IndependentsMar 27, 2026
Jimmy West, Longtime LJG Executive Director, Dies at 72West, who started in the art department at the Leading Jewelers Guild in 1979, is remembered for his patience, kindness, and dedication.
CollectionsMar 27, 2026
Itä’s ‘Yarí Whirl’ Ring Tells Every Side of the StoryIn the “Tesoro” version of the ring, our Piece of the Week, each side of the gold hexagonal nugget has a unique colored gemstone design.
WatchesMar 26, 2026
Q&A: Citizen Watch America President Jeffrey Cohen on Eco-Drive’s 50th AnniversaryCohen discusses the evolution of Citizen’s light-powered technology, the brand’s cross-generational appeal, and tariffs.
IndependentsMar 26, 2026
Peter Smith Pens Book on Human Behavior in Sales“Essentially Human: On Sales and Salespeople" reveals the underlying human traits and behaviors of the most successful sales professionals.
CollectionsMar 26, 2026
Lionheart Celebrates 13 Years of ‘Cassandane’The collection features symbols of love, luck, and light, based on the story of Queen Cassandane and Cyrus the Great of Persia.
Events & AwardsMar 26, 2026
NAJA, Instappraise Introduce New ScholarshipIt’s the third scholarship to be launched as part of the partnership to help appraisers advance their professional credentials.
Events & AwardsMar 26, 2026
JA Still Accepting Entries for 2026 CASE AwardsThe deadline for entries in the jewelry design competition has been extended to April 3.
SourcingMar 25, 2026
Rob Bates Steps Down as JCK News Director After 28 years with JCK, the veteran industry journalist is launching his own publication on Substack called The Jewelry Wire.
GradingMar 25, 2026
New York’s Natural History Museum, Wiley To Build Minerals DatabaseWiley said the project will give scientists worldwide access to the American Museum of Natural’s History renowned mineral collection.
CollectionsMar 25, 2026
Boochier Turns Flower Friendship Bracelets Into Fine JewelryThe “Flower Puff” collection looks to beaded flower friendship bracelets from childhood, turning the silhouette into nostalgic fine jewelry.
