Majors

Why Standard Chartered Shut Down Its Diamond Unit

MajorsJun 15, 2016

Why Standard Chartered Shut Down Its Diamond Unit

The mid-stream sector of the diamond industry now “falls outside of the bank’s tightened risk tolerances,” the London-based lender said.

London--Standard Chartered Plc no longer will finance diamond traders and polishers after reevaluating its portfolio and determining there is too much risk for too little return in the sector.

The London-based bank began thoroughly reviewing all of its operations after CEO Bill Winters took over last year, looking to exit businesses generating low returns and/or that are vulnerable to large swings in loan impairment.

The trading and polishing sector of the diamond industry was certainly among those in Winters’ crosshairs, with the spike in defaults and bankruptcies last year--the bank was among those caught up in the massive Winsome Diamonds default--and the increased compliance reporting and regulatory capital costs associated with financing the industry.

In March, the London-based bank began to pull back, tightening its terms for lending to the diamond sector by asking dealers to provide more collateral or take out insurance protection on their loans.

Then, last week, JCKOnline.com broke the news that Standard Chartered would be exiting the diamond sector entirely.

In an official statement, the bank said that continuing to provide financing to diamond traders and polishers “falls outside of the bank’s tightened risk tolerances.”

A Standard Chartered spokesman added that it will still bank the mining and retail segments of the supply chain; its decision impacts only the mid-stream, meaning diamond traders and polishers.

A timeline for Standard’s shutdown of its diamond division has not yet been determined, though the bank said it is “working with clients to ensure a smooth exit.”

Eric Tunis, a partner at New York-based accounting and consulting firm Friedman LLP, said the news that Standard Chartered would no longer bank the diamond sector “wasn’t something that was shocking.”

There have been a number of warning signs, including the tightened lending restrictions and, very recently, the bank’s absence from the Las Vegas trade shows. Tunis said this is the first time he can recall not seeing anyone from Standard Chartered in Vegas.

He said the struggle with profitability among diamond manufacturers leading to loan defaults in the mid-stream, the slim margins banks now make when lending to diamond companies, and the general lack of robustness in the trade right now all make banks averse to financing it.

Friedman Co-Managing Partner Harriet Greenberg said compliance issues also are a factor.

Larger money center banks face hefty fines if it’s found that their clients are involved in money laundering, a practice many perceive to be rampant in the diamond industry.

“There’s a

stigma associated with the industry. It’s a very international business, and the nature of the product is, it’s mobile and it’s high value, so all those things go into the perception that there could be money laundering,” she said, though she noted that the stigma is undeserved.

“A lot of it is perception more than reality,” Greenberg said, noting that her firm’s clients, and many companies in the industry, have diligent quality control procedures in place.

The exit of Standard Chartered set off alarm bells around the industry, which has seen a number of banks pull back, and even pull out, in recent years.

Antwerp Diamond Bank is no more. Parent company KBC wound down its operations in 2014 after it is said it couldn’t find a buyer for the bank, though questions loom about the failed sale.

Dutch bank ABN Amro still lends to the mid-stream sector of the market, though sources in the diamond market say the bank has pulled back in recent years.
When asked to comment on Standard Chartered’s decision, Erik Jens, who heads the ABN Amro’s diamond and jewelry division, said he cannot comment on another bank’s strategy.

He noted, however, that in general banks “make risk adjusted return trade-offs on where to allocate capital. As for the diamond industry, we know that reputation and transparency still plays a role in those trade-offs, although we see the many initiatives of the industry to improve its image by self-regulation as well.

“In our opinion, for strong, corporate structured companies with a healthy balance sheet, a sustainable strategy and business plan and long-term potential and profitability, there is enough liquidity from several banks active in the sector, even attracting newcomers, including investors, in Europe, Asia, the U.S.A. and the Middle East.”

Greenberg said the exit of traditional lenders, like Standard Chartered and ADB before it, opens the door for non-bank players, such as hedge funds, to enter the sector and offer financial services.

“Anytime there’s a void, there’s an opportunity,” she said.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsJan 21, 2025
Peter Smith: Sales Training’s Dirty Little Secret

Peter Smith pulls back the curtain on the often misinterpreted, and sometimes maligned, world of sales training.

Lord Jewelry brown and white diamond ring
TrendsJan 21, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Decadent Mocha Mousse

Pantone’s 2025 Color of the Year takes the form of jewelry through gemstones and enamel that look just as delicious as mocha mousse.

Charms from designer Jenna Blake
Policies & IssuesJan 21, 2025
These Designers and Retailers Are Raising Money for LA Wildfire Relief

From raffles to auctions to donations, the industry is working to aid charities in Los Angeles amid the raging wildfires.

Resolutions - 2025.jpg
Brought to you by
3 New Year’s Resolutions for Jewelry Lovers

The new year feels like a clean slate, inspiring reflection, hope, and the motivation to become better versions of ourselves.

Diamonds Do Good
SourcingJan 21, 2025
Diamonds Do Good Adds 2 Board Members

Julia Hackman Chafé and Monica Elias have joined the organization’s board of directors.

Weekly QuizJan 16, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Bucellati necklaces
FinancialsJan 17, 2025
Richemont’s Jewelry Sales Rise 14% in Holiday Quarter

The company, which owns Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, had a record Q3, with sales topping $6 billion.

Picchiotti Classic Blue and Green Necklace
CollectionsJan 17, 2025
Piece of the Week: Picchiotti’s Transformable ‘Classic Blue and Green’ Necklace

The necklace features a sapphire drop weighing more than 9 carats that detaches to transform into a ring.

ride_or_die_1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Celebrates "Forever Present" Holiday Campaign

A Diamond is Forever hosted a holiday celebration in honor of their new marketing campaign, ‘Forever Present.’

Gold jewelry boxes with Lux Bond & Green logo
IndependentsJan 16, 2025
Lux Bond & Green to Open Sixth Location

The 127-year-old jeweler is planning to open a new store in Mystic, Connecticut.

Timex National Park Collection
WatchesJan 16, 2025
Timex Launches Collection of National Park Watches

The watches’ dials feature artwork celebrating the vibrant energy and unique landscapes of six of America’s national parks.

Elizabeth Taylor diamond line bracelet
AuctionsJan 16, 2025
Elizabeth Taylor’s Diamond Line Bracelet Going up for Auction

Offered by U.K. auction house Woolley & Wallis, the yellow diamond bracelet was a gift from Taylor’s good friend Michael Jackson.

JCK open registration graphic
Events & AwardsJan 16, 2025
JCK Las Vegas 2025 Open for Registration

The jewelry trade show returns to The Venetian Expo and The Venetian Resort in Las Vegas from June 6 to 9.

Iris Apfel
EditorsJan 15, 2025
The Jewelry I’d Bid On in Christie’s Iris Apfel Auction

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco highlights her favorite fashion jewelry pieces from the upcoming “Unapologetically Iris” auction.

Jewelers Vigilance Committee Americans with Disabilities Act guide cover
Policies & IssuesJan 15, 2025
JVC Debuts Guide to Americans with Disabilities Act Compliance

The online guide is available for free and written with the jewelry industry in mind.

Jose Hess Design Award Trophy
Events & AwardsJan 15, 2025
Jose Hess Design Awards Open for Submissions

The awards honor the late Jose Hess, a founding member of AJDC and an award-winning jewelry designer.

Susan Jacques
GradingJan 14, 2025
GIA CEO, President Susan Jacques to Retire at the End of 2025

The grading lab said the search for her successor is underway.

Jewelry designer and National Jeweler guest columnist Jules Kim
ColumnistsJan 14, 2025
Jules Kim: Building Bridges Between Creators and Industry

In this special op-ed, designer Jules Kim calls on big brands to collaborate with independent creators instead of copying their designs.

Henry A. Hänni
GradingJan 14, 2025
Former SSEF Director Henry A. Hänni Dies

A pioneering figure in gemology, he is remembered for his spirit of generosity, curiosity, and joy.

Woman wearing rings on both hands
FinancialsJan 14, 2025
Signet Jewelers Lowers Q4 Guidance After Holiday Sales Fall Short

The peak selling days leading up to Christmas did not meet the jewelry retailer’s expectations.

Edouard Schneider
MajorsJan 14, 2025
Edouard Schneider Joins Messika as Chief Brand Officer

Schneider brings over 20 years of luxury and fashion industry experience to his role as a key member of the brand’s global leadership team.

Gemfields emeralds
SourcingJan 13, 2025
Zambia Reinstates 15% Export Duty on Precious Gemstones, Shocking Gemfields

Gemfields said the Zambian government revoked the 2019 suspension of the tax with no warning.

Woman’s silhouette with smart ring on finger
TechnologyJan 13, 2025
Ultrahuman Unveils Luxury Smart Ring

With versions in 18-karat gold and platinum, the wearables company is blending health technology and fine jewelry.

Brandee Dallow
Policies & IssuesJan 13, 2025
Brandee Dallow Elected President of Ethical Metalsmiths

The executive brings more than two decades of industry experience to the role.

Camille Zarsky and curated necklaces
IndependentsJan 13, 2025
The Seven Pops Up in Palm Beach

The New York City-based retailer is bringing its curation of jewels to a pop-up shop at Love Binetti in Palm Beach, Florida.

Jewelers Relief Fund logo
Policies & IssuesJan 10, 2025
Jewelers Relief Fund Reopened to Aid Victims of LA Fires

Created by JA and DCA, the fund is collecting money for jewelry businesses damaged by the wildfires in Los Angeles County.

Elsa Jin Mozi Brooch
TrendsJan 10, 2025
Piece of the Week: Elsa Jin’s ‘Mozi’ Brooch

Adrien Brody received his first Golden Globe while wearing the “Mozi” brooch, which depicts a spill of traditional Chinese calligraphy ink.

Paul Rowley, Sandrine Conseiller, Vipul Shah, and Kirit Bhansali
SourcingJan 10, 2025
De Beers, GJEPC Partner to Promote Natural Diamonds

The pair will work together to support independent retailers in India with marketing assets, training materials, and other tools.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy