ColumnistsSep 05, 2025
Peter Smith: A Lasting Lesson From Maurice Tempelsman Smith recalls a bit of wisdom the industry leader, who died last week, shared at a diamond conference years ago.
TrendsAug 11, 2016
The History Behind … Georgian mourning jewelry
This month, National Jeweler delves into the when, where and why of mourning jewelry worn between roughly 1714 and 1830.
New York-- Seeing her first piece of Georgian mourning jewelry with a hand-painted scene some 25 years ago almost made Lenore Dailey cry, and it changed the course of career.
“I was amazed by it,” says the Michigan-based antique jewelry dealer and collector, recalling the powerful imagery of the piece, created in memory of a child who died at the age of 2, that steered her into buying and selling the category.
A quarter of a century later, Dailey, who declines the title of “expert” when it comes to mourning jewelry and instead refers to herself as an “enthusiastic collector with much to learn,” shared her knowledge for National Jeweler’s The History Behind.
This month’s feature focuses on mourning jewelry from the Georgian period, the era when King George I through George IV ruled England, from 1714 to 1830.
What is mourning jewelry? To understand the type of mourning jewelry worn during the Georgian period, one must first take a step back and look at the pieces worn prior to the mid-1600s.
Dailey says in that time, memento mori jewelry largely was donned to remind the wearer that they, too, would die one day; that life is transient and fleeting. (Memento mori is a Latin phrase that means “Remember that you will die.”)
“There was so much death and dying” in those days, Dailey observes. “Mothers lost children … there were so many diseases. Death was something that was on their minds.”
The shift in mourning jewelry began around 1649 with the execution of King Charles I of England.
Dailey says many royalists wanted to show their support sympathy for the fallen king. They commissioned their jewelers to make pieces of faced Stuart crystal (the king was of the House of Stuart) with a portrait of the king underneath.
This began a trend among the wealthy aristocracy to have mourning pieces commissioned to remember their own lost loved ones, marking a shift from memento mori--pieces that were a reflection of mortality and the transient nature of life on earth--to mourning jewelry, which focuses on remembrance, grief, comfort and consolation.
What materials were used for these pieces? Some of the materials used to make Georgian era mourning jewelry were gold, along with silver and base metals, and rock crystal. Very rarely, diamonds were used.
Some of the scenes included in mourning pieces were painted on copper, vellum (a parchment made from animal skin), and ivory, trade in which now is severely restricted in the United States.
Human hair also was utilized, to paint the scenes and as part of the design.
How much is Georgian-era mourning jewelry worth today? Prices for pieces from this period range from $300 or $400 for a small locket to the thousands for larger, more elaborate pieces commissioned by the wealthier individuals of the day.
How can a retailer add this category to their antique jewelry offerings? Dailey said quality pieces from the Georgian era are fairly scarce. “You are going to have to hunt for them, just like I do,” she says.
Dealers who work in this category include Dailey, Samuel Gassman of E. Foxe Harrell in New York and Darlene Boyard.
No matter from whom a retailer chooses to source their Georgian mourning jewelry, Dailey offers this piece of advice: work with a reputable dealer who stands behind whatever they sell.
More on Trends
The Latest
CollectionsSep 05, 2025
Piece of the Week: Jamie Turner’s ‘Victoria’ Necklace The “Victoria” necklace features a labradorite hugged by diamond accents in 18-karat yellow gold.
Policies & IssuesSep 05, 2025
Trump Takes Tariffs Case to the Supreme Court Two lower courts have moved to block the import taxes, which will remain in place as the legal battle continues.
Brought to you by
Rallying Call for the Jewelry Industry on Tariffs and Other Key IssuesJewelers of America is leading the charge to protect the industry amidst rising economic threats.
WatchesSep 05, 2025
Patrick Mahomes Is the New Hublot Brand AmbassadorThe Kansas City Chiefs quarterback shares Hublot’s dedication to pursuing greatness, the Swiss watchmaker said.
Weekly QuizSep 04, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SourcingSep 04, 2025
Lucara Unveils Unusual 37-Carat Pink DiamondThe Type IIa stone, recovered from Botswana’s Karowe diamond mine last month, features unique coloration.
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine JewelryAs a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.
Events & AwardsSep 04, 2025
27 Can’t-Miss Converge Sessions, Events From sunrise yoga to tariffs talks, these are some events to check out at the upcoming inaugural event.
WatchesSep 04, 2025
Breitling Takes Its NFL Game to the Next Level Breitling is now the NFL’s official timepiece partner, a move that puts the brand in front of the millions of Americans who watch football.
Events & AwardsSep 04, 2025
The NYC Jewelry, Antique, & Object Show Returns in NovemberNYCJAOS is set for Nov. 21-23 in New York City’s Chelsea neighborhood.
SourcingSep 03, 2025
Gemfields Confirms Completion of Fabergé SaleU.S.-based investment company SMG Capital LLC is the new owner of the luxury brand.
MajorsSep 03, 2025
These Are the Nearly 300 Claire’s Stores Set to CloseA new court filing details the locations of the stores that will close, as well as the 830 that will remain open.
MajorsSep 03, 2025
Stuller Releases 2 New Catalogs The new catalogs are “Tools, Equipment, & Metals” and “Findings & Metals.”
FinancialsSep 02, 2025
Lab-Grown Diamonds, Lower-Priced Fashion Jewelry Drive Signet Jewelers’ Q2 SalesThe retailer has raised its guidance after seeing total sales increase 3 percent in the second quarter, beating expectations.
MajorsSep 02, 2025
Birks CEO Jean-Christophe Bédos Steps DownNiccolò Rossi di Montelera, executive chairman of the board, was appointed as interim CEO.
MajorsSep 02, 2025
Harry Winston Opens Its Largest Flagship in JapanThe three-floor space also features the jeweler’s largest VIP salon in Japan and offers an exclusive diamond pendant.
CollectionsSep 02, 2025
Stephanie Gottlieb Debuts Silver Designs in ‘All Hours’ CollabThe collection is a collaboration between Stephanie Gottlieb Fine Jewelry and Oak and Luna, focusing on understated essentials.
AuctionsAug 29, 2025
Sotheby’s UAE Sale to Feature 32-Carat Fancy Vivid Orangy Pink DiamondThe highlight of a single-owner jewelry and watch collection, it’s estimated to fetch up to $7 million at auction this December.
FinancialsAug 29, 2025
Movado’s Q2 Sales Rebound Despite Tariff ImpactCEO Efraim Grinberg noted a resurgence in the fashion watch market.
CollectionsAug 29, 2025
Piece of the Week: Mark Davis’ ‘Bullseye’ Necklace The “Bullseye” necklace, with vintage bakelite and peridot, August’s birthstone, is the perfect transitional piece as summer turns to fall.
Supplier BulletinAug 28, 2025
Clientbook Is Helping Jewelers Turn Clienteling Challenges into Wins with Hands-On Training and CoachingSponsored by Clientbook
GradingAug 28, 2025
GIA’s New ‘Quality Assessment’ for Lab-Grown Diamonds Is Coming It will classify lab-grown stones into one of two categories, “premium” or “standard,” in lieu of giving specific color and clarity grades.
SourcingAug 28, 2025
Botswana Declares Public Health Emergency Amid Diamond Sales SlumpPresident Duma Boko addressed the country’s medical supply chain crisis in a recent televised address.
MajorsAug 28, 2025
Borsheims Names New Jewelry BuyerFormer Free People buyer Afton Robertson-Kanne recently joined the retailer.
IndependentsAug 28, 2025
Sissy’s Log Cabin Donates School Supplies to Memphis StudentsThe jeweler teamed up with two local organizations for its inaugural “Back to School and Bling” event.
EditorsAug 27, 2025
Taylor Swift’s Engagement Ring Is a Fairy Tale for Vintage Diamond CutsThe singer’s new bling, reportedly a natural old mine-cut diamond, is no paper ring.
