Associate Editor Natalie Francisco shares eight of her favorite jewelry looks from the 77th annual Primetime Emmy Awards, held Sunday night.
Gemfields Reports $60M Loss in 2018
A new tax levied in Zambia played a significant part in putting the colored stone miner in the red for the full year.

London—Gemfields recorded a net loss in 2018, hurt in part by a new tax levied in Zambia and a costly court case.
In its full year ended Dec. 31, which was first full fiscal year for the company since the July 2017 takeover of its biggest investor, Pallinghurst, Gemfields reported revenue of $206.1 million, a 252 percent increase over 2017. This was the first time it crossed the $200-million mark, the colored gemstone miner noted.
EBITDA also increased, from $30.5 million to $58.9 million.
Even with revenue hitting a new high, the company recorded a $60.4 million loss for the fiscal year, hurt by the fair-value loss on the Sedibelo platinum mines, in which Gemfields holds a 6.5 percent stake, a $22.6 million impairment charge applied to Kagem because of newly implemented tax changes in Zambia and a costly court case.
Starting Jan. 1, the Zambian government introduced a 15 percent export duty on gemstones and metals to help reduce the country’s debt. When combined with the existing 6 percent mineral royalty already levied on gemstones, it increases Gemfields’ total tax on revenue at Kagem to 21 percent.
Also last fiscal year, a group of Mozambicans filed a lawsuit against the London-based colored gemstone miner over alleged human rights abuses at the company’s Montepuez ruby mine. In January, Gemfields agreed to pay $7.6 million on a no-admission-of-liability basis to settle the lawsuit.
Gemfields’ share price reflected the challenges it faced at its operations throughout the year, falling 40 percent by the end of the year.
RELATED CONTENT: Fallout from Nirav Modi Scandal Hits GemfieldsIn its annual results release, Chairman Brian Gilbertson said the company’s biggest challenge in the coming months will lie in Zambia. In addition to the higher taxes, he noted that the mineral royalty is no longer tax-deductible for corporations.
Because of the new taxes enacted, Gemfields has recognized an impairment loss of $22.6 million in respect to Kagem, its emerald mine there that faces other market headwinds as well.
Production in the “premium” category at Kagem reached 224,000 carats, representing a 400 percent increase in the category’s production in the 12-month period to June 2017 (Gemfields included pre-acquisition figures for the full-year t June 30, 2017, where possible to allow for better comparability).
Kagem also set new records for ore production and total carats produced. However, as production soared, the emerald market struggled.
As a result, the four emerald auctions during the year generated revenues of $60.3 million, which Gemfields called “tolerable” given the financial and regulatory oversight challenges facing Indian customers.
Higher-quality emerald auctions held during the year yielded a slight increase in average per-carat price, achieving $65.55 compared with $63.63 per carat in the 12-month period ended June 2017.
The per-carat average for commercial-quality emeralds was flat, achieving $3.54 per carat on average in 2018 compared with $3.53 per carat in the year up to June 2017.
Gemfields also faces challenges in Ethiopia, where it was mining emeralds.
In July 2018, a mob overran its mining operations and a month later looted the site. Its 110-person team there has been reduced to a handful, the company said, as it works to find a way to restart bulk sampling.
RELATED CONTENT: Gemfields Opens $15M Automated Sort House in MozambiqueMeanwhile, Gemfields’ operations in Mozambique, where it mines ruby and corundum, generated revenues of $127.1 million from the two Montepuez auctions of mixed-quality rubies held during the year, with the June auction seeing record results of $71.8 million.
In 2018, the mining area produced a total of 2.9 million carats of ruby and corundum.
Faberge, meanwhile, reported record revenues of $13.4 million in 2018 and saw triple-digit growth in online sales.
The Latest


It’s predicting a rise in retail sales this holiday season despite economic uncertainty and elevated inflation.

Associate Editor Lauren McLemore headed out West for a visit to Potentate Mining’s operation hosted by gemstone wholesaler Parlé Gems.

With their unmatched services and low fees, reDollar.com is challenging some big names in the online consignment world.

Fordite is a man-made material created from the layers of dried enamel paint that dripped onto the floors of automotive factories.


Gilbertson has worked as a researcher, jeweler, lapidary artist, appraiser, and business owner throughout his decades in the industry.

A decision likely won’t come until January 2026 at the earliest, and the tariffs remain in effect until then.

Jewelers of America is leading the charge to protect the industry amidst rising economic threats.

Located in the revamped jewelry hall at the retailer’s New York City flagship, this opening is Tabayer’s first shop-in-shop.

The new, free app offers accessible educational content, like games and podcasts, for U.S. retailers.

As the gold price rises, the manufacturer is offering a 100 percent payout through Sept. 30 for gold clean scrap.

Jacob & Co. partnered with the German technology company on two pairs of headphones, one set with diamonds and the other with sapphires.

Guillermo del Toro’s 2025 “Frankenstein” will feature 27 jewels and objects from the storied brand, including pieces from its archives.

The Waldorf Astoria New York’s grand reopening this past summer means a homecoming for the industry group’s annual event.

Anglo plans to merge with Teck Resources Ltd. to form Anglo Teck. The deal changes nothing about its plans to offload De Beers.

The 9.51-carat fancy vivid blue diamond, which set two world auction records at Sotheby’s in 2014, is estimated to fetch up to $30 million.

The industry veteran joins the auction house as it looks to solidify its footprint in the jewelry market.

The nonprofit awarded four students pursuing a professional career in jewelry making and design with $2,250 each.

The Texas-based jeweler has also undergone a brand refresh, debuting a new website and logo.

The two organizations have finalized and signed the affiliation agreement announced in May.

The single-owner sale will headline Sotheby's inaugural jewelry auction at the Breuer building, its new global headquarters, this December.

From sunrise yoga to tariffs talks, these are some events to check out at the upcoming inaugural event.

Smith recalls a bit of wisdom the industry leader, who died last week, shared at a diamond conference years ago.

The “Victoria” necklace features a labradorite hugged by diamond accents in 18-karat yellow gold.

Two lower courts have moved to block the import taxes, which will remain in place as the legal battle continues.

The Kansas City Chiefs quarterback shares Hublot’s dedication to pursuing greatness, the Swiss watchmaker said.