Sourcing

Gemfields Reports $60M Loss in 2018

SourcingApr 01, 2019

Gemfields Reports $60M Loss in 2018

A new tax levied in Zambia played a significant part in putting the colored stone miner in the red for the full year.

20181030_Inkalamu-emerald.jpg
Gemfields recovered the 5,655-carat “Inkalamu” emerald from its Kagem mine in October and sold it a month later for an undisclosed amount to Dia-Color.

London—Gemfields recorded a net loss in 2018, hurt in part by a new tax levied in Zambia and a costly court case.

In its full year ended Dec. 31, which was first full fiscal year for the company since the July 2017 takeover of its biggest investor, Pallinghurst, Gemfields reported revenue of $206.1 million, a 252 percent increase over 2017. This was the first time it crossed the $200-million mark, the colored gemstone miner noted.

EBITDA also increased, from $30.5 million to $58.9 million.

Even with revenue hitting a new high, the company recorded a $60.4 million loss for the fiscal year, hurt by the fair-value loss on the Sedibelo platinum mines, in which Gemfields holds a 6.5 percent stake, a $22.6 million impairment charge applied to Kagem because of newly implemented tax changes in Zambia and a costly court case.

Starting Jan. 1, the Zambian government introduced a 15 percent export duty on gemstones and metals to help reduce the country’s debt. When combined with the existing 6 percent mineral royalty already levied on gemstones, it increases Gemfields’ total tax on revenue at Kagem to 21 percent.

Also last fiscal year, a group of Mozambicans filed a lawsuit against the London-based colored gemstone miner over alleged human rights abuses at the company’s Montepuez ruby mine. In January, Gemfields agreed to pay $7.6 million on a no-admission-of-liability basis to settle the lawsuit.

Gemfields’ share price reflected the challenges it faced at its operations throughout the year, falling 40 percent by the end of the year.

RELATED CONTENT: Fallout from Nirav Modi Scandal Hits Gemfields
In its annual results release, Chairman Brian Gilbertson said the company’s biggest challenge in the coming months will lie in Zambia. In addition to the higher taxes, he noted that the mineral royalty is no longer tax-deductible for corporations.

Because of the new taxes enacted, Gemfields has recognized an impairment loss of $22.6 million in respect to Kagem, its emerald mine there that faces other market headwinds as well.

Production in the “premium” category at Kagem reached 224,000 carats, representing a 400 percent increase in the category’s production in the 12-month period to June 2017 (Gemfields included pre-acquisition figures for the full-year t June 30, 2017, where possible to allow for better comparability).

Kagem also set new records for ore production and total carats produced. However, as production soared, the emerald market struggled.

Most of Gemfields’ emerald dcustomers operate in India and, as such, were grappling with deflating property prices in Jaipur, lack of liquidity and heightened regulatory scrutiny in India following the Nirav Modi scandal.

As a result, the four emerald auctions during the year generated revenues of $60.3 million, which Gemfields called “tolerable” given the financial and regulatory oversight challenges facing Indian customers.

Higher-quality emerald auctions held during the year yielded a slight increase in average per-carat price, achieving $65.55 compared with $63.63 per carat in the 12-month period ended June 2017.

The per-carat average for commercial-quality emeralds was flat, achieving $3.54 per carat on average in 2018 compared with $3.53 per carat in the year up to June 2017.

Gemfields also faces challenges in Ethiopia, where it was mining emeralds.

In July 2018, a mob overran its mining operations and a month later looted the site. Its 110-person team there has been reduced to a handful, the company said, as it works to find a way to restart bulk sampling.
RELATED CONTENT: Gemfields Opens $15M Automated Sort House in Mozambique
Meanwhile, Gemfields’ operations in Mozambique, where it mines ruby and corundum, generated revenues of $127.1 million from the two Montepuez auctions of mixed-quality rubies held during the year, with the June auction seeing record results of $71.8 million.

In 2018, the mining area produced a total of 2.9 million carats of ruby and corundum.

Faberge, meanwhile, reported record revenues of $13.4 million in 2018 and saw triple-digit growth in online sales.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

1872-x-1052-July-ad (2).png
Supplier BulletinAug 07, 2026
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying Events

Sponsored by Stratus Estate Buyers

Blue Nile President Pamela Cloud
MajorsAug 07, 2026
Retail Veteran Pam Cloud Appointed President of Blue Nile

Cloud, who will officially join Blue Nile on Monday, spent 26 years at Tiffany & Co. and founded jewelry brand Roseate.

Paulo Garcia
MajorsAug 07, 2026
Pandora Appoints Paulo Garcia as New CFO

Garcia will take over from the company’s current CFO, Anders Boyer, who is retiring at the end of November.

1872-x-1052-July-ad (1).png
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying Events

Retailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.

Etsy office Dumbo Brooklyn
MajorsAug 07, 2026
Etsy to Lay Off 12% of Workforce

Etsy CEO Kruti Patel Goyal explained why the company is letting go more than 200 employees as its performance improves.

Weekly QuizAug 07, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Syna Star Gazer Pendant
TrendsAug 07, 2026
Look Ahead with Syna’s Binoculars Pendant

The “Star Gazer” pendant, our Piece of the Week, is Syna’s tribute to curiosity and the discovery of something new.

An interior shot of the Musee Lalique in Wingen-sur-Moder, France
CrimeAug 06, 2026
Lalique Museum to Remain Closed Following $5M Heist

Museum officials are looking to the public to help cover the “exceptional” costs involved in recovering from the July 5 smash-and-grab.

Brought-To-By-Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center Stage

Colored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.

Claire’s new piercing experience
MajorsAug 06, 2026
Claire’s Revamps Piercing Services for Second Time in Three Years

The overhaul includes enhanced employee safety training and trendy earring styles, including lab-grown diamond studs.

Brilliant Earth Jane Goodall collection rings
FinancialsAug 06, 2026
Brilliant Earth’s Q2 Sales Up 6%, Driven by High-Income Shoppers

The retailer said it had its biggest Mother’s Day ever, with strong demand for higher-priced jewelry.

Handwork: Handcrafted Objects that Made America Book Cover
TrendsAug 06, 2026
New Book on Handcrafted American Objects Highlights Jewelry

“Handwork: Handcrafted Objects that Made America” features historic and contemporary works, including a Diné squash blossom necklace.

Ani Khachian
MajorsAug 06, 2026
AJA East Coast Names Ani Khachian as First Female President-Elect

The Armenian Jewelers Association’s East Coast chapter has also elected its 2026–2027 board of directors.

JCPenney storefront
MajorsAug 05, 2026
Private Equity Firm Wants to Buy 100+ JCPenney Stores

Onyx Partners has submitted a second offer to buy the department stores after its first offer fell through last year.

The Roaring Jewel Martini
IndependentsAug 05, 2026
Atlanta Jeweler Introduces $10K Martini

Solomon Brothers Jewelers has partnered with local cocktail bar Roaring Social on a new martini garnished with a tennis necklace.

Benjamin Siegel of Hamilton Jewelers
IndependentsAug 05, 2026
Another Member of the Siegel Family Joins Hamilton Jewelers

Benjamin Siegel, son of President and CEO Hank Siegel, started working for the family business this week.

Bulgari San Diego Store Exterior
MajorsAug 05, 2026
Bulgari Opens Store in San Diego

The new space features a modern design that blends Bulgari’s Roman heritage with San Diego’s coastal spirit.

Mugshots of four men
CrimeAug 04, 2026
Crew of Thieves Break Into Indiana Jeweler’s Home

Four men were charged in connection with the break-in and accused of stealing $365,000 in cash, jewelry, and designer goods.

André Branch
MajorsAug 04, 2026
Pandora Hires Former Signet Board Member to Lead North American Market

André Branch has more than 25 years of experience with various brands, most recently serving as CEO of Ariana Grande’s cosmetics company.

Gemlok earrings
MajorsAug 04, 2026
Sasha Primak Acquires Gemlok

New York-based atelier Gemlok is best known for creating the innovative “bridge” setting that became popular in the bridal market.

Santana Now Unidad Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsAug 04, 2026
Musician Carlos Santana Launches Jewelry Brand

Santana Now's debut collection, “Unidad,” features symbolic motifs as well as pieces of wood from the Woodstock stage.

Stock image of a gavel and books
CrimeAug 03, 2026
Florida Man Gets 15 Years in Trio of Jewelry Store Robberies

The 50-year-old man pleaded guilty earlier this year to robbing two jewelry stores and a pawn shop of more than $700,000 in merchandise.

Spider-Man Citizen watch and pin on a web
WatchesAug 03, 2026
Citizen's New Spider-Man Watch Is a Collector’s Dream

The watch’s dial features an original design by Marvel comics illustrator Adam Kubert.

Chatham Men’s Collection Campaign Imagery
Lab-GrownAug 03, 2026
Chatham Releases First Men’s Collection

The new collection of lab-grown diamond and colored gemstone jewelry provides a “fresh perspective” on the category, Chatham said.

Pomellato Marvelous Griffe earrings
TrendsAug 03, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Spinel vs. Peridot

While some August babies are team peridot, the month's time-honored birthstone, others are team spinel, the newer alternative.

Edina Kiss Popsicle Pendant and Karina Choudhrie Ice Cream Charm
TrendsJul 31, 2026
These Pieces of the Week Are Sweet

Edina Kiss’ “Popsicle” pendant and Karina Choudhrie’s “Ice Cream” charm satisfy that summer craving for a sweet piece of jewelry.

Macy’s Herald Square store sign
MajorsJul 31, 2026
Macy’s Iconic Red Shopping Bag Sign Torn Down

The massive billboard has been in the same spot on the department store’s Herald Square flagship store for decades.

U.S. Trade Representative Jamieson Greer and Jewelers of America President and CEO David Bonaparte in Washington, D.C.
Policies & IssuesJul 30, 2026
JA Heads Back to Washington as New Wave of Tariffs Takes Effect

David Bonaparte, along with Tim Haake and Ronnie VanderLinden, continue to lobby for tariff exemptions for diamonds, gemstones, and pearls.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy