Plus, why Saks Global’s bankruptcy may have given Bloomingdale’s an edge.
Gemfields Reports $60M Loss in 2018
A new tax levied in Zambia played a significant part in putting the colored stone miner in the red for the full year.

London—Gemfields recorded a net loss in 2018, hurt in part by a new tax levied in Zambia and a costly court case.
In its full year ended Dec. 31, which was first full fiscal year for the company since the July 2017 takeover of its biggest investor, Pallinghurst, Gemfields reported revenue of $206.1 million, a 252 percent increase over 2017. This was the first time it crossed the $200-million mark, the colored gemstone miner noted.
EBITDA also increased, from $30.5 million to $58.9 million.
Even with revenue hitting a new high, the company recorded a $60.4 million loss for the fiscal year, hurt by the fair-value loss on the Sedibelo platinum mines, in which Gemfields holds a 6.5 percent stake, a $22.6 million impairment charge applied to Kagem because of newly implemented tax changes in Zambia and a costly court case.
Starting Jan. 1, the Zambian government introduced a 15 percent export duty on gemstones and metals to help reduce the country’s debt. When combined with the existing 6 percent mineral royalty already levied on gemstones, it increases Gemfields’ total tax on revenue at Kagem to 21 percent.
Also last fiscal year, a group of Mozambicans filed a lawsuit against the London-based colored gemstone miner over alleged human rights abuses at the company’s Montepuez ruby mine. In January, Gemfields agreed to pay $7.6 million on a no-admission-of-liability basis to settle the lawsuit.
Gemfields’ share price reflected the challenges it faced at its operations throughout the year, falling 40 percent by the end of the year.
RELATED CONTENT: Fallout from Nirav Modi Scandal Hits GemfieldsIn its annual results release, Chairman Brian Gilbertson said the company’s biggest challenge in the coming months will lie in Zambia. In addition to the higher taxes, he noted that the mineral royalty is no longer tax-deductible for corporations.
Because of the new taxes enacted, Gemfields has recognized an impairment loss of $22.6 million in respect to Kagem, its emerald mine there that faces other market headwinds as well.
Production in the “premium” category at Kagem reached 224,000 carats, representing a 400 percent increase in the category’s production in the 12-month period to June 2017 (Gemfields included pre-acquisition figures for the full-year t June 30, 2017, where possible to allow for better comparability).
Kagem also set new records for ore production and total carats produced. However, as production soared, the emerald market struggled.
As a result, the four emerald auctions during the year generated revenues of $60.3 million, which Gemfields called “tolerable” given the financial and regulatory oversight challenges facing Indian customers.
Higher-quality emerald auctions held during the year yielded a slight increase in average per-carat price, achieving $65.55 compared with $63.63 per carat in the 12-month period ended June 2017.
The per-carat average for commercial-quality emeralds was flat, achieving $3.54 per carat on average in 2018 compared with $3.53 per carat in the year up to June 2017.
Gemfields also faces challenges in Ethiopia, where it was mining emeralds.
In July 2018, a mob overran its mining operations and a month later looted the site. Its 110-person team there has been reduced to a handful, the company said, as it works to find a way to restart bulk sampling.
RELATED CONTENT: Gemfields Opens $15M Automated Sort House in MozambiqueMeanwhile, Gemfields’ operations in Mozambique, where it mines ruby and corundum, generated revenues of $127.1 million from the two Montepuez auctions of mixed-quality rubies held during the year, with the June auction seeing record results of $71.8 million.
In 2018, the mining area produced a total of 2.9 million carats of ruby and corundum.
Faberge, meanwhile, reported record revenues of $13.4 million in 2018 and saw triple-digit growth in online sales.
The Latest

The flawless, Type IIa stone is estimated to achieve up to $2.8 million at the auction house’s high jewelry sale in April.

Costume designer Kate Hawley wore three archival Tiffany & Co. brooches, our Pieces of the Week, while accepting her first Oscar.

You deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.

The jewelry retailer announced changes to its store network and brand portfolio during its fourth-quarter earnings call.


From a weaker labor market to inflation, NRF Chief Economist Mark Mathews gave insight on what retailers can expect this year.

The historic stone, which sold at Elmwood’s in London, is the largest white diamond to be offered on the U.K. market in more than a decade.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

Three-time Grammy award-winning artist Nelly is set to perform at the annual event at Tao Beach in Las Vegas on May 31.

The model and fashion editor’s gold evening bags were the top lots at the London sale, going for more than $25,000 each.

Fresh off winning the David Yurman Gem Awards Grant, Nelson discusses the ring that launched his career and his plans for the future.

“The Basics of Jewelry” has been updated to include modern topics and visuals.

Held just before the Oscars, the jewelry industry’s big awards show had its share of standout jewelry, gowns, and acceptance speeches.

The Academy Award-winning actress stars in Tiffany & Co.’s latest commercial, which debuted Sunday night during the Oscars.

The organizational change follows Kering’s promise of a transformation after declining sales in 2025.

Natalie Francisco rounds up the top Oscars jewels, including Rose Byrne’s Taffin necklace with a more than 20-carat yellow-brown diamond.

Béatrice Goasglas has been with TAG Heuer since 2018. She is the first woman to head the 166-year-old, LVMH-owned watch brand.

The store features the first in-store build for the jeweler’s in-house “Bella Ponte” bridal brand.

The live fine jewelry auction will take place later this week, showcasing antique pieces, rare gemstones, and signed jewels.

Our Pieces of the Week honor the 2026 nominees for the Gem Award for Jewelry Design, Silvia Furmanovich, Cece Fein-Hughes, and Catherine Sarr.

The 24-piece watch collection is set to debut in spring 2027.

Pooler, who has more than 25 years’ experience in jewelry, is now chief operating officer of Modani Jewels, Soham Diamonds, and SNJ Creations.

The reopening of the Waldorf Astoria means a homecoming for the industry group’s annual event, which will take place Saturday.

McCormack looked to the 19th century’s “golden age” of astronomy when designing her new celestial-themed collection.

Nelson will be honored as the inaugural grant winner at the Gem Awards gala on Friday.

The new smart design software allows jewelers to configure, price, and confirm a custom engagement ring in real time for in-store customers.

The 10,000-square-foot diamond manufacturing facility officially opened in late February and employs 50 people.





















