Sourcing

Gemfields Reports $60M Loss in 2018

SourcingApr 01, 2019

Gemfields Reports $60M Loss in 2018

A new tax levied in Zambia played a significant part in putting the colored stone miner in the red for the full year.

20181030_Inkalamu-emerald.jpg
Gemfields recovered the 5,655-carat “Inkalamu” emerald from its Kagem mine in October and sold it a month later for an undisclosed amount to Dia-Color.

London—Gemfields recorded a net loss in 2018, hurt in part by a new tax levied in Zambia and a costly court case.

In its full year ended Dec. 31, which was first full fiscal year for the company since the July 2017 takeover of its biggest investor, Pallinghurst, Gemfields reported revenue of $206.1 million, a 252 percent increase over 2017. This was the first time it crossed the $200-million mark, the colored gemstone miner noted.

EBITDA also increased, from $30.5 million to $58.9 million.

Even with revenue hitting a new high, the company recorded a $60.4 million loss for the fiscal year, hurt by the fair-value loss on the Sedibelo platinum mines, in which Gemfields holds a 6.5 percent stake, a $22.6 million impairment charge applied to Kagem because of newly implemented tax changes in Zambia and a costly court case.

Starting Jan. 1, the Zambian government introduced a 15 percent export duty on gemstones and metals to help reduce the country’s debt. When combined with the existing 6 percent mineral royalty already levied on gemstones, it increases Gemfields’ total tax on revenue at Kagem to 21 percent.

Also last fiscal year, a group of Mozambicans filed a lawsuit against the London-based colored gemstone miner over alleged human rights abuses at the company’s Montepuez ruby mine. In January, Gemfields agreed to pay $7.6 million on a no-admission-of-liability basis to settle the lawsuit.

Gemfields’ share price reflected the challenges it faced at its operations throughout the year, falling 40 percent by the end of the year.

RELATED CONTENT: Fallout from Nirav Modi Scandal Hits Gemfields
In its annual results release, Chairman Brian Gilbertson said the company’s biggest challenge in the coming months will lie in Zambia. In addition to the higher taxes, he noted that the mineral royalty is no longer tax-deductible for corporations.

Because of the new taxes enacted, Gemfields has recognized an impairment loss of $22.6 million in respect to Kagem, its emerald mine there that faces other market headwinds as well.

Production in the “premium” category at Kagem reached 224,000 carats, representing a 400 percent increase in the category’s production in the 12-month period to June 2017 (Gemfields included pre-acquisition figures for the full-year t June 30, 2017, where possible to allow for better comparability).

Kagem also set new records for ore production and total carats produced. However, as production soared, the emerald market struggled.

Most of Gemfields’ emerald dcustomers operate in India and, as such, were grappling with deflating property prices in Jaipur, lack of liquidity and heightened regulatory scrutiny in India following the Nirav Modi scandal.

As a result, the four emerald auctions during the year generated revenues of $60.3 million, which Gemfields called “tolerable” given the financial and regulatory oversight challenges facing Indian customers.

Higher-quality emerald auctions held during the year yielded a slight increase in average per-carat price, achieving $65.55 compared with $63.63 per carat in the 12-month period ended June 2017.

The per-carat average for commercial-quality emeralds was flat, achieving $3.54 per carat on average in 2018 compared with $3.53 per carat in the year up to June 2017.

Gemfields also faces challenges in Ethiopia, where it was mining emeralds.

In July 2018, a mob overran its mining operations and a month later looted the site. Its 110-person team there has been reduced to a handful, the company said, as it works to find a way to restart bulk sampling.
RELATED CONTENT: Gemfields Opens $15M Automated Sort House in Mozambique
Meanwhile, Gemfields’ operations in Mozambique, where it mines ruby and corundum, generated revenues of $127.1 million from the two Montepuez auctions of mixed-quality rubies held during the year, with the June auction seeing record results of $71.8 million.

In 2018, the mining area produced a total of 2.9 million carats of ruby and corundum.

Faberge, meanwhile, reported record revenues of $13.4 million in 2018 and saw triple-digit growth in online sales.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Boulle family in hard hats
IndependentsJun 15, 2026
DeBoulle Diamond & Jewelry to Renovate Dallas Flagship

The revamped, elevated space will feature a two-story Patek Philippe atelier and a rooftop patio for parties.

G Shock Coca Cola
WatchesJun 15, 2026
G-Shock, Coca-Cola Partner on Bottle-Inspired Watch

The special-edition piece marks the 140th anniversary of the iconic beverage brand.

Buddha Mama earrings
TrendsJun 15, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Tiny Charms Are Trending

Here are 13 small charms to inspire your layered looks this summer.

DCA-NJ-article-1872x1052-060826.jpg
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce Solutions

DCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.

16th century flower cluster hogback diamond ring
AuctionsJun 12, 2026
16th-Century ‘Hogback’ Diamond Ring Going Up for Auction in London

Found by a metal detectorist, the ring likely belonged to a wealthy, possibly royal, owner, said Noonans.

Weekly QuizJun 11, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Chouette Designs Margaux Ring
CollectionsJun 12, 2026
Chouette Designs To Launch Collection Celebrating All Types of Love

Our Pride Month Piece of the Week, the “Margaux” ring, is part of the wife-and-wife team’s new “Lovestoned” collection.

CBG logo
Events & AwardsJun 12, 2026
CBG Announces Plans for Phoenix Show

The group has named the keynote speaker and announced a new pavilion for its next event, which is slated for September.

PG-05-SHOT-2-LUCIDA.033 1.png
Brought to you by
All Eyes on Gold Prices. Alternatives to Look For. And What to BEWARE of in Vegas

As gold prices rise, today’s retailers are looking for alternatives at prices that will appeal to wider audiences.

A selection of animal jewelry
EditorsJun 11, 2026
This Was the Best Animal Jewelry in Las Vegas

From lions and hippos to snails and fish, Senior Editor Lenore Fedow wrangles her picks for cutest jewelry critters in Las Vegas.

Marie-Laure Cérède
MajorsJun 11, 2026
Former Cartier Creative Director To Head Chanel’s Jewelry Creation Studio

Marie-Laure Cérède will join Chanel as the new director of its jewelry creation studio, starting in October.

Smiling Rocks booth at JCK Las Vegas 2026
Lab-GrownJun 11, 2026
Smiling Rocks’ ‘Wish Jar’ Generates 100+ Wishes in Las Vegas

At the JCK show, the lab-grown diamond brand teamed up with Jewelers for Children to support Make-A-Wish India.

Azure blue diamond and 5.04-carat fancy vivid blue diamond
AuctionsJun 10, 2026
31.62-Carat ‘Azure Blue’ Diamond Sells For $8M+ at Christie’s

It was a banner day for blue gemstones, with another blue diamond topping $8 million and a 41-carat sapphire going for $2.3 million.

Saks Fifth Avenue New York City storefront
MajorsJun 10, 2026
Saks Global Receives Bankruptcy Court Approval for Reorganization

The approval means the retailer is on track to exit bankruptcy proceedings this summer.

Jalen Javon Davis and Leslie La Vun Jones II
CrimeJun 10, 2026
2 Suspects Arrested in Texas Jewelry Store Robbery

The men are believed to be part of the group of several masked suspects that robbed Marc Robinson Jewelers in April.

Sylvie Levine wearing engagement ring
CollectionsJun 10, 2026
Sylvie Debuts ‘Elevated’ Bridal Collection Inspired By Designer’s Ring

The bridal-focused brand is also launching its Custom Atelier this summer, a digital custom design tool for its authorized retailers.

De Beers Group CEO Al Cook
EditorsJun 09, 2026
Q&A: Al Cook on the Lab-Grown ‘Bubble,’ Dwindling Diamond Supply

The De Beers Group CEO also discussed tariffs, Desert Diamonds, and the pending sale of De Beers in an interview with Michelle Graff.

Russ Whitehouse
MajorsJun 09, 2026
Wilkerson's Russ Whitehouse Retires

The industry veteran is bringing his 56-year run in the fine jewelry sector to an end.

Pride in the Industry LGBTQ+ Voices in Jewelry panel
Events & AwardsJun 09, 2026
Pride Month Panel to Highlight LGBTQ+ Jewelry Voices

The panel discussion will feature LGBTQ+ leaders across the jewelry, luxury, and creative industries.

Marie Lichtenberg Smash Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsJun 09, 2026
Marie Lichtenberg’s New Capsule Collection Is a Smash, Literally

Inspired by a locket that got run over, the “Smash” capsule collection reimagines the shape of Lichtenberg’s signature style.

Katherine Whitacre
MajorsJun 09, 2026
Frederick Goldman Names Director of Sales for Southeast

The company has promoted Katherine Whitacre to the role.

Collage of new Stuller items
MajorsJun 08, 2026
Stuller Expands Selection of Lab-Grown Diamonds, Demi-Fine Jewelry

The jewelry manufacturer has added Taylor Swift-esque diamond shapes, and more silver, gold vermeil, and gold-plated jewelry.

De Beers Group’s Sally Morrison
SourcingJun 08, 2026
Sally Morrison to Depart De Beers This Summer

Morrison has been marketing diamonds on and off since the early 2000s and said she is leaving to “pursue new projects.”

Lauren K Gemma pendant
TrendsJun 08, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: June’s Birthstone Trio

Those born in June can celebrate with pearl, alexandrite, and moonstone jewelry.

Overnight Mountings Ring Builder Platform
TechnologyJun 08, 2026
Overnight Mountings Launches Ring Builder Platform

The platform allows retailers to guide clients through a customizable engagement ring buying experience in a branded interface.

Dunkelberger’s Fine Jewelry
IndependentsJun 05, 2026
Pennsylvania Jewelry Store To Close After 79 Years

Jim Springer, owner of Dunkelberger’s Fine Jewelry, is heading into retirement.

Stock image of a person shopping at the grocery store
SurveysJun 05, 2026
Consumers to Cut Back on Spending Amid Rising Prices, Survey Shows

When conducting its May consumer confidence survey, The Conference Board asked extra questions about consumers’ budgeting strategies.

Rebel Jewelry Tunnel Charm
CollectionsJun 05, 2026
Rebel Jewelry’s Charm Symbolizes Perseverance for Pride Month

The “Tunnel” charm, our Piece of the Week, celebrates Pride Month with its design inspired by hope and the light at the end of the tunnel.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy