CollectionsJul 17, 2025
2026 Winter Olympic Medal Design Symbolizes UnityThe medals feature a split-texture design highlighting the Games’ first time being hosted by two cities and the athletes’ journeys.
SourcingAug 05, 2014
De Beers expanding rough customer base
Beginning in March 2015, companies that are not De Beers sightholders will have the opportunity to compete for the rough diamonds that weren’t offered to, or refused by, sightholders, and will be known as “accredited buyers.”
London--Beginning in March 2015, companies that are not De Beers sightholders will have the opportunity to compete for the rough diamonds that weren’t offered to, or refused by, sightholders, and will be known as “accredited buyers.”
Accredited buyers will have the chance to purchase ex-plan: rough that falls outside of the intention to offer (ITO), the 12-month forecast of what De Beers intends to offer each sightholder based on the size, clarity, etc. of diamonds they normally need. De Beers said it expects to have an “enlarged pool” of ex-plan availability in the next contract period, as it makes more rough available through this channel to give different diamond companies, not just sightholders, the ability to show demand for its diamonds.
Accredited buyers also can compete for the rough diamonds that were in boxes refused by sightholders.
In order to qualify as an accredited buyer, companies will need to meet many of the same criteria as De Beers’ sightholders and auction customers do; in short, they need to have purchased a certain amount of rough diamonds in the year prior to the beginning of the contract period, adhere to De Beers’ ethics principles and meet certain financial requirements.
De Beers sells 90 percent of its rough diamonds through its global sightholder system (GSS), with the remaining 10 percent sold via De Beers Auction Sales, formerly known as Diamdel.
In this current contract period, De Beers has 83 sightholders. The company would not give an estimate on how many sightholders it anticipates accepting in the next contract period, nor on how many accredited buyers it expects to have.
In addition to the accredited buyers, De Beers is adding another wrinkle to its next three-year contract period--“Strategic Supply,” which will be available by invitation only to companies that “drive value addition,” such as by creating consumer demand for diamonds.
De Beers spokesman David Johnson said invitations for Strategic Supply can go to any diamond company that De Beers perceives as adding value to the diamond pipeline, whether they are sightholders, accredited buyers, auction sales customers or none of the above.
Invites to apply for strategic supply are scheduled to be sent on Dec. 1, and Johnson said those accepted will become sightholders. Strategic Supply will be offered on a 12-month basis, like ITOs, but will not renew automatically during the three-year sightholder contract period. A company invited and
accepted for Strategic Supply for 2015-2016, for example, will not necessarily receive Strategic Supply for 2016-2017.
When asked if Strategic Supply was a way of rewarding companies that currently contribute to the generic marketing of diamonds--something De Beers used to do on a grand scale before its share of the world’s supply of rough dwindled--Johnson said, “Our concern is the value of the diamond industry.” He said Strategic Supply does give De Beers the ability to get rough diamonds into the hands of companies that are stoking consumer demand, though he also notes these diamonds could go to companies that add value at other points in the supply pipeline, such as in cutting and polishing.
When asked how De Beers sees the rough diamonds going through the GSS being divvied up among all of its buyers and channels--including these new accredited buyers and the rough being pushed through Strategic Supply--Johnson said the company is “not drawing lines” but estimates that the “great majority” of its rough diamonds will continue to be sold to sightholders through the ITOs.
The next contract period for De Beers’ sightholders begins in March 2015 and extends for three years, through March 2018. More information about the new contract period is available at DeBeersSightholder.com.
The deadline for submission of sightholder applications is Oct. 17. De Beers said it has simplified the sightholder application process, eliminating the complex Contract Proposal Questionnaire, or CPQ, and accepting companies as sightholders based on rough purchases, financial stability and transparency and adherence to De Beers’ ethical requirements.
De Beers will continue to allow companies that are customers of its auction sales arm to apply to become sightholders in the middle of the contract period. Johnson said accredited buyers also will have this opportunity.
More on Sourcing
The Latest
Supplier BulletinJul 17, 2025
The INSTORE Jewelry Show 2025: Your Holiday Preparations, All Wrapped Up! Sponsored by The INSTORE Jewelry Show 2025
SurveysJul 17, 2025
The Most Recommended Brands in the World, According to YouGovGlobally, travel and transportation brands reigned, while in the U.S., alcoholic beverage companies and a lingerie brand took the top spots.
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench JewelersThe Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.
IndependentsJul 17, 2025
Gina Ferranti of GiGi Ferranti Jewelry Dies at 59The Brooklyn-based jewelry designer is remembered as a true artist and a rare talent.
Weekly QuizJul 17, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Events & AwardsJul 17, 2025
JA to Hold Learning Workshops This FallA new slate of Learning Workshops will take place in Oklahoma, Mississippi, and Georgia.
SurveysJul 16, 2025
Signet Jewelers Falls Lower on NRF’s ‘Top 100’ Retailers ListThe middle class is changing its approach to buying jewelry and affordable luxury goods, the NRF said.
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America is Headed to Las Vegas for JCK 2025The countdown is on for the JCK Las Vegas Show and JA is pulling out all the stops.
FinancialsJul 16, 2025
Richemont’s Jewelry Sales Up 7% in Q1It marks the third consecutive quarter of growth for Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati, and Vhernier.
WatchesJul 16, 2025
The Top-Selling Rolex Models of the Last 15 Years, According to Bob’s Watches The reseller’s market trends report, based on its sales data, also shows exactly how much Rolex prices have jumped since 2010.
AuctionsJul 16, 2025
Christie’s To Honor Dinh Van With ExhibitionThe auction house will be hosting a retrospective paying tribute to jeweler Jean Dinh Van and his company’s 60th anniversary.
IndependentsJul 16, 2025
Clyde Duneier Ushers In Fourth GenerationJake Duneier and Danielle Duneier-Goldberg have stepped into the roles of CEO and president, respectively.
CollectionsJul 15, 2025
Boucheron’s New High Jewelry Calls Attention to Nature’s ImpermanenceThe “Impermanence” collection contemplates nature through the Japanese art of Ikebana (flower arranging) and philosophy of wabi-sabi.
MajorsJul 15, 2025
James Avery Expands to 2 More StatesThe Texas-based jewelry retailer has set up shop in Tennessee and Arizona.
Events & AwardsJul 15, 2025
Neiman Marcus Vet Joins Couture as Brand Director Eric Ford will step into the role, bringing with him decades of experience.
MajorsJul 15, 2025
Ben Bridge Jeweler Acquires Olympic ManufacturingIn addition to improved capabilities, the acquisition will allow the jeweler to offer support to other independent jewelers.
CollectionsJul 15, 2025
Guzema Debuts First Colored Gemstone JewelryThe “Celestial Blue” capsule collection campaign features Olympian Kateryna Sadurska.
MajorsJul 14, 2025
Nanis Opens First StoreThe seasonal store, located in Mykonos, Greece, offers exclusive events, personal styling, and curated experiences.
IndependentsJul 14, 2025
It’s the Summer of Love at Long’s JewelersThe New England jeweler is hosting a bridal event for the month of August.
Events & AwardsJul 11, 2025
The Edge’s Annual Conference Returns in SeptemberIts sessions will focus on inventory strategies, staff performance, retention and acquisition, emerging market trends, and more.
CollectionsJul 11, 2025
Piece of the Week: Miseno’s ‘Arco’ EarringsFor its 10th anniversary, Miseno designed the “Arco” earrings based on the Arco Felice, an arch conceptualized in A.D. 95 in Miseno, Italy.
Policies & IssuesJul 11, 2025
James Avery to Donate $1M to Texas Hill Country Relief EffortsThe jewelry company is one of several contributing to relief efforts in the region after the recent floods.
TrendsJul 11, 2025
Kelly Osbourne’s Engagement Ring Is Sweet as HoneyInspired by fiancé Sid Wilson’s nickname for her, the white and yellow diamond ring features a unique honeycomb design.
CollectionsJul 10, 2025
Penny Preville Celebrates 5 Decades of Jewelry DesignThe brand is marking its 50th anniversary with a limited-edition bangle, high jewelry suites, new collections, and more.
IndependentsJul 10, 2025
Steven Goldfarb to Retire, Close Alvin Goldfarb JewelerGoldfarb said changes in the industry, coupled with his age and the updates needed to modernize his business, drove his decision.
MajorsJul 10, 2025
LVMH Names New Chairman, CEO of the AmericasLongtime LVMH executive Michael Burke has stepped into the role.
Events & AwardsJul 10, 2025
IAC Gold and Diamond Conference Returns to NYC Central topics of next week’s event include climate action, labor rights, artisan preservation, and value retention in producing countries.
