CollectionsFeb 28, 2025
Piece of the Week: Ironhorse Quillwork EarringsThe work of Indigenous designer Joe Big Mountain, these earrings are similar to the pair Lily Gladstone just wore to the SAG Awards.
SourcingAug 05, 2014
De Beers expanding rough customer base
Beginning in March 2015, companies that are not De Beers sightholders will have the opportunity to compete for the rough diamonds that weren’t offered to, or refused by, sightholders, and will be known as “accredited buyers.”
London--Beginning in March 2015, companies that are not De Beers sightholders will have the opportunity to compete for the rough diamonds that weren’t offered to, or refused by, sightholders, and will be known as “accredited buyers.”
Accredited buyers will have the chance to purchase ex-plan: rough that falls outside of the intention to offer (ITO), the 12-month forecast of what De Beers intends to offer each sightholder based on the size, clarity, etc. of diamonds they normally need. De Beers said it expects to have an “enlarged pool” of ex-plan availability in the next contract period, as it makes more rough available through this channel to give different diamond companies, not just sightholders, the ability to show demand for its diamonds.
Accredited buyers also can compete for the rough diamonds that were in boxes refused by sightholders.
In order to qualify as an accredited buyer, companies will need to meet many of the same criteria as De Beers’ sightholders and auction customers do; in short, they need to have purchased a certain amount of rough diamonds in the year prior to the beginning of the contract period, adhere to De Beers’ ethics principles and meet certain financial requirements.
De Beers sells 90 percent of its rough diamonds through its global sightholder system (GSS), with the remaining 10 percent sold via De Beers Auction Sales, formerly known as Diamdel.
In this current contract period, De Beers has 83 sightholders. The company would not give an estimate on how many sightholders it anticipates accepting in the next contract period, nor on how many accredited buyers it expects to have.
In addition to the accredited buyers, De Beers is adding another wrinkle to its next three-year contract period--“Strategic Supply,” which will be available by invitation only to companies that “drive value addition,” such as by creating consumer demand for diamonds.
De Beers spokesman David Johnson said invitations for Strategic Supply can go to any diamond company that De Beers perceives as adding value to the diamond pipeline, whether they are sightholders, accredited buyers, auction sales customers or none of the above.
Invites to apply for strategic supply are scheduled to be sent on Dec. 1, and Johnson said those accepted will become sightholders. Strategic Supply will be offered on a 12-month basis, like ITOs, but will not renew automatically during the three-year sightholder contract period. A company invited and
accepted for Strategic Supply for 2015-2016, for example, will not necessarily receive Strategic Supply for 2016-2017.
When asked if Strategic Supply was a way of rewarding companies that currently contribute to the generic marketing of diamonds--something De Beers used to do on a grand scale before its share of the world’s supply of rough dwindled--Johnson said, “Our concern is the value of the diamond industry.” He said Strategic Supply does give De Beers the ability to get rough diamonds into the hands of companies that are stoking consumer demand, though he also notes these diamonds could go to companies that add value at other points in the supply pipeline, such as in cutting and polishing.
When asked how De Beers sees the rough diamonds going through the GSS being divvied up among all of its buyers and channels--including these new accredited buyers and the rough being pushed through Strategic Supply--Johnson said the company is “not drawing lines” but estimates that the “great majority” of its rough diamonds will continue to be sold to sightholders through the ITOs.
The next contract period for De Beers’ sightholders begins in March 2015 and extends for three years, through March 2018. More information about the new contract period is available at DeBeersSightholder.com.
The deadline for submission of sightholder applications is Oct. 17. De Beers said it has simplified the sightholder application process, eliminating the complex Contract Proposal Questionnaire, or CPQ, and accepting companies as sightholders based on rough purchases, financial stability and transparency and adherence to De Beers’ ethical requirements.
De Beers will continue to allow companies that are customers of its auction sales arm to apply to become sightholders in the middle of the contract period. Johnson said accredited buyers also will have this opportunity.
More on Sourcing
The Latest
AuctionsFeb 28, 2025
300-Year-Old Ring With Ties to Witch Trial Judge Up for Auction A metal detectorist uncovered the ring created in memory of Sir Richard Rainsford, who presided over some of England’s last witch trials.
Recorded WebinarsFeb 28, 2025
Watch: 2025 Jewelry Trends ForecastFine jewelry consultant and publicist Francesca Simons joins Amanda Gizzi and Natalie Francisco to discuss the trends set to rise this year.
Brought to you by
Have a Plan for EmergenciesEmergencies can happen anytime, anywhere , and Jewelers of America has what you need to be prepared for it all.
TrendsFeb 27, 2025
Model Winnie Harlow Says ‘Yes’ to 3-Stone Engagement RingHarlow’s partner, NBA player Kyle Kuzma, worked with Vobara to design the ring, which features oval and pear-shaped diamonds.
Weekly QuizFeb 27, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
MajorsFeb 27, 2025
Winona Ryder, Iman Star in New Pandora CampaignThe Danish jeweler released the next chapter of its “Be Love” campaign, which celebrates love in all its forms.
Events & AwardsFeb 27, 2025
JA to Host Workshop During Alabama Jewelers Association ConventionThe learning workshop and the convention are both scheduled to take place April 26 and 27 in Montgomery, Alabama.
Brought to you by
A Diamond ETF is the Way to Reinvigorate Natural Diamond SalesThe jewelry industry faces challenges from lab-grown diamonds. A diamond ETF can restore natural diamonds' value and drive investor demand.
Policies & IssuesFeb 26, 2025
EU Once Again Pushes Back Deadline on Diamond Traceability The EU, like the U.S., also now will require diamond importers to provide information about where exactly the diamonds were mined.
Events & AwardsFeb 26, 2025
JFC Names 2025 ‘Facets’ HonoreesThe charity will celebrate Pandora CEO Alexander Lacik and Brilliant Earth CEO Beth Gerstein at its annual event in Las Vegas.
ColumnistsFeb 25, 2025
Peter Smith: Here’s What I Think Retailers need to have the right merchandise, marketing, and people in place to stay on top in a sea of uncertainty, Peter Smith writes.
EditorsFeb 25, 2025
Out & About: Visiting Tacori’s New Shop-in-Shop Senior Editor Lenore Fedow traveled to Smyth Jewelers in Maryland to see the first of 15 revamped in-store boutiques Tacori is rolling out.
MajorsFeb 25, 2025
Qurate Has a New NameThe parent company of HSN and QVC is undergoing a restructuring.
CollectionsFeb 25, 2025
Michael B. Jordan Stars in David Yurman’s Spring CampaignThe company’s newest brand ambassador Eiza González will also be featured in the ads for the women’s campaign.
SourcingFeb 24, 2025
Colored Stone Market Update: Tracking Industry Trends in TucsonDeclining supply and growing demand persist in the colored gemstone market, presenters from Gemworld said at AGTA GemFair Tucson.
TrendsFeb 24, 2025
Renna’s Lobster Clasp Looks Like a Claw, Now It's Patented by LawThe designer’s new patent transforms the everyday clasp into her jumbo “Lobster Clasp,” modeled after the look of a crustacean’s claw.
Events & AwardsFeb 24, 2025
Bogolo Joy Kenewendo to Speak at Annual JVC LuncheonKenewendo, Botswana’s minister of minerals and energy, will discuss the future of diamonds.
SourcingFeb 24, 2025
Diavik’s Production Down 17% in 2024 Sales at the Rio Tinto-owned mine also slid by a double-digit percentage, falling 37 percent in a difficult market for diamonds.
CollectionsFeb 21, 2025
Piece of the Week: Jade Ruzzo’s ‘Tennessee’ Oval Drop EarringsHeidi Gardner, an SNL cast member, wore the smoky quartz earrings on the “SNL50: The Anniversary Special” red carpet on Sunday.
SourcingFeb 21, 2025
Zambia Lifts 15% Export Duty on Gemstones, Metals The reversal comes less than two months after the Zambian government reinstated the tax in an effort to bring in more money.
MajorsFeb 21, 2025
24 Karat Club of New York Names New PresidentThe organization also announced its newly elected officers and directors.
SourcingFeb 20, 2025
Anglo Writes Down Value of De Beers by $2.9B As anticipated, Anglo took another impairment charge on the diamond miner and marketer, which saw revenue sink 23 percent in 2024.
SourcingFeb 20, 2025
Harry Winston’s Son Donates Fancy Red Diamond to the SmithsonianRonald Winston is giving the 2.33-carat “Winston Red” to the Smithsonian, 67 years after his father donated the Hope Diamond.
SourcingFeb 20, 2025
GJEPC Names New Chairman, Vice ChairmanKirit Bhansali, a partner in Smital Gems and chairman of India Jewellery Park, will take on the role of chairman.
IndependentsFeb 20, 2025
IJO Elects 4 New Board MembersAlisha Cornett, Nic Faini, Eric Stevens, and Seth Shipley have joined the organization’s board of directors for a three-year term.
CrimeFeb 19, 2025
Brink’s to Pay $42M After Admitting to Illegally Transporting MoneyThe company has to pay the Justice Department and FinCEN for violating the Bank Secrecy Act, the U.S.’s main anti-money laundering law.
SourcingFeb 19, 2025
Diamond Mining Company CEO Steps Down Amid Sales Slump, LayoffsPetra Diamonds Ltd. CEO Richard Duffy resigned as the diamond miner reported a 30 percent drop in sales to start its fiscal year.
