Grading

System for Comparing Color in Gemstones Launched in Tucson

GradingFeb 12, 2019

System for Comparing Color in Gemstones Launched in Tucson

ColorCodex offers a way for the trade to communicate and compare the color of faceted gemstones using numeric values.

20190212_ColorCodex-header.jpg
The new ColorCodex system features color “windows” attached to numeric values to provide a way to compare and communicate the color of faceted gemstones.

Tucson, Ariz.—A new color referencing tool launched in Tucson, designed to help the industry communicate and compare the color of gemstones in a consistent manner.

Chris Smith, developer of the system and president of American Gemological Laboratories, debuted ColorCodex during the AGTA GemFair trade show with a workshop event along with others who had a hand in the project. 

The tool, built by gemologists for gemologists, allows industry professionals to compare and reference the color of faceted gemstones.

“Throughout my career in gemology, I’ve always marveled at how an industry that’s built on color is always struggling with how to communicate color and how to deal with color in stones,” Smith said during the Tucson event.

The ColorCodex concept originally debuted in beta form, so to speak, during the AGTA GemFair in 2017. Gem dealers, market analysts and major international laboratories have been testing it for the past two years.

ColorCodex consists of 13 color sheets of 40 color “windows,” each with a reflective and patterned foil to mimic the appearance of a faceted gemstone. Each window has a corresponding numeric code—without any color descriptors—so the designators can be used for many applications, developers said.

There is a total of 65 different hues.

In the system, each hue is represented by its own column, which is then divided into eight windows depicting the varying intensity or saturation of that specific color.


ColorCodex is comprised of 13 color sheets of 40 color “windows,” each with a reflective and patterned foil to mimic the appearance of a faceted gemstone to allow for the easy identification of a stone’s precise color.

The colors, or hues, are evenly numbered horizontally across the page from 10 through 138, while the vertical windows showing intensity are given odd numbers from 03 through 17.

Combining these two numeric values therefore defines not only a specific color but also its level of saturation.

Space also has been left between the color windows on each sheet to allow for when a gemstone’s color may fall in between two.

Developers addressed when gemstones also have an added tonal element to their color by designing gray overlay cards.

“In transparent faceted gems, cutting will create brightened reflections of brilliance and color as well as blackened areas of extinction,” Smith said in a press release. “The ColorCodex system was specifically engineered to mimic this appearance and present color more as we see it in gems.”

Smith

added in Tucson that he is purposefully not dictating ColorCodex’s use to allow “the industry itself to determine how it can be used and what the applications can be.”

But developers have a few suggestions.

Appraisers can use ColorCodex to assign color reference for value without relying on trade terms, gem dealers and suppliers can better match stones and fulfill orders, or new gemologists can be trained about the nuance of color in various gemstones and varieties.

Another area of possible use noted at the launch event is to help the industry set parameters for varieties that are defined by color; for example, setting borders to differentiate between ruby and pink sapphire, imperial and precious topaz, and the like. In this case, it could be useful to trade organizations and gemological laboratories.

AGL has started using ColorCodex internally to standardize color calls and structure its trade names, Smith said. He added that he has approached several labs about using the system as well.

The tool is priced at $2,000 and can be ordered online.

It includes 13 color referencing sheets, five overlay sheets and three plastic travel sleeves. It also comes with a guide on how to use the tool as well as how to apply it when it comes to zoned and bi-color stones.

At the ColorCodex launch event in Tucson, developers said they also would like to address the issue of changing color perception based on lighting conditions.

They will do this by creating their own light to go along with the tool, which will have the full spectrum with less UV, to allow for uniform lighting among all users.

Developers are still working on prototypes but are hopeful the ColorCodex lamp will launch soon.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Audemars Piguet Grosse Pièce
AuctionsDec 18, 2025
Audemars Piguet Reclaims Historic Pocket Watch at Auction

It purchased the “Grosse Pièce,” an ultra-complicated Audemars Piguet pocket watch from the ‘20s, for a record-breaking price at Sotheby’s.

Terry and Cindy Chandler at AGS Conclave
EditorsDec 18, 2025
Terry Chandler Looks Back on 40 Years of Opportunity, Change, and Friends

Chandler got his start at Michelson Jewelers and has served as DCA president and CEO since 2001. He will retire at the end of the month.

JamAlert 1872x1052.png
Supplier BulletinDec 18, 2025
Cell Jammers Are Targeting Your Business. Here's How to Beat Them

Sponsored by Digital Monitoring Products

Recipients Collage 2025 - NJ (1872 x 1050 px) (1872 x 1052 px).png
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow Today

How Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.

Rendering of Bob’s Watches JFK airport store
WatchesDec 18, 2025
Bob’s Watches to Open Store in New York’s JFK Airport

The boutique is slated to open this week inside Terminal 8, offering pre-owned Rolex watches and more to international travelers.

Weekly QuizDec 11, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Diamond ring in parts
Lab-GrownDec 18, 2025
Kira Jewels Debuts Custom Lab-Grown Diamond Jewelry Service

The lab-grown diamond grower now offers custom engagement and fashion jewelry through its Kira Custom Lab Jewelry service.

Fabergé egg pendant near gloved hand
CrimeDec 17, 2025
Man Pleads Not Guilty to Swallowing Fabergé Pendant

The special-edition egg pendant ingested in a New Zealand jewelry store was recovered after a six-day wait.

roseco-catalog.png
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line Catalog

Roseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.

Ashley Zhang Jewelry Snake Necklace, Renato Cipullo Hematite Blaze Necklace, Vanessa Fernandez Studio Curva Wrap Hoops, Hernsdorf Tears of Aphrodite Necklace, Robinson Pelham Tsar Star Earrings, Marla Aaron Nymphenburg Lock, Lof The Valentine Ring
EditorsDec 17, 2025
2025 Jewelry Rewind: The Best Piece of the Week Picks

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco plays favorites with Piece of the Week, selecting a standout piece of jewelry from each month of 2025.

Lucy Hale in Jacquie Aiche’s Love and Desire Campaign
CollectionsDec 17, 2025
Lucy Hale Stars in Jacquie Aiche’s Holiday Campaign

The “Love and Desire” campaign is inspired by the magic that follows when one’s heart leads the way, said the brand.

Pandora Alexander Lacik and Berta de Pablos-Barbier
MajorsDec 16, 2025
Pandora’s New CEO Will Step Up Early

Berta de Pablos-Barbier will replace Alexander Lacik at the start of January, two months earlier than expected.

JAR pendant brooch, fancy intense blue diamond
AuctionsDec 16, 2025
Suzanne Belperron, JAR Shine in Sotheby’s First Auctions at New HQ

Sotheby’s held its first two jewelry sales at the Breuer building last week, and they totaled nearly $44 million.

The Jewelry Symposium logo
Events & AwardsDec 16, 2025
TJS Now Accepting Scholarship Applications for 2026

Winners will receive free registration and lodging for its fourth annual event in Detroit.

National Jeweler columnists and PR professionals Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams
ColumnistsDec 16, 2025
Beyond Unboxing: Creative Reveals to Drive Reach and Engagement

Here are six ideas for making more engaging content for Instagram Reels and TikTok, courtesy of Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams.

Tiffany & Co. logo, Anna Martin, CD Peacock logo
Events & AwardsDec 16, 2025
Diamonds Do Good Names 2026 Award Recipients

The honorees include a notable jewelry brand, an industry veteran, and an independent retailer.

Stock image of gavel
CrimeDec 15, 2025
Men Receive Life Sentences in Home Invasion Murder of Jeweler

Carlos Jose Hernandez and Joshua Zuazo were sentenced to life without the possibility of parole in the 2024 murder of Hussein “Sam” Murray.

Eduard Stefanescu, left, and Sara Yood, right
Policies & IssuesDec 15, 2025
Sara Yood Named Co-Chair of RJC Standards Committee

Yood will serve alongside Eduard Stefanescu, the sustainability manager for C.Hafner, a precious metals refiner in Germany.

MS Rau Aspen rendering
IndependentsDec 15, 2025
M.S. Rau to Open Store in Aspen

The New Orleans jeweler is also hosting pop-up jewelry boutiques in New York City and Dallas.

Tiffany & Co. Paraíba tourmaline jewelry
AuctionsDec 12, 2025
13.54-Carat Paraíba Tourmaline Sets Records at Christie’s

Set in a Tiffany & Co. necklace, it sold for $4.2 million, the highest price and price per carat paid for a Paraíba tourmaline at auction.

David Webb holiday window
MajorsDec 12, 2025
David Webb Reveals Ice-Cold Holiday Window Display

The jeweler’s “Deep Freeze” display showcases its iconic jewelry designs frozen in a vintage icebox.

Oscar Heyman Yellow Green Sphene and Diamond Ring
CollectionsDec 12, 2025
Piece of the Week: Oscar Heyman’s Sphene Ring

Take luxury gifting to new heights this holiday season with the jeweler’s showstopping 12-carat sphene ring.

IGI Design Contest Graphic
Events & AwardsDec 12, 2025
IGI Jewelry Design Contest Now Accepting Submissions

This year's theme is “Unveiling the Depths of the Ocean.”

Jacquie Aiche Alien Heart Eye Inlay Necklace, Cicada Dragonfly Brooch, Harkness After the Rain Earrings
TrendsDec 11, 2025
Pinterest 2026 Trend Report: Brooches, Bold Gold, Cool Blue

In its annual report, Pinterest noted an increase in searches for brooches, heirloom jewelry, and ‘80s luxury.

Day’s Jewelers Salem New Hampshire store exterior
IndependentsDec 11, 2025
Look Inside Day’s Jewelers’ Ninth Store

The 111-year-old retailer celebrated the opening of its new location in Salem, New Hampshire, which is its third store in the state.

Americas Gold Chain Catalog Volume 3
MajorsDec 11, 2025
Americas Gold Releases New Gold Chain Catalog

The new catalog features its most popular chains as well as new styles.

F.P. Journe FFC prototype
AuctionsDec 10, 2025
Francis Ford Coppola’s Watch Sells for $10.8M

The filmmaker’s personal F.P. Journe “FFC” prototype was the star of Phillips’ recent record-setting watch auction in New York.

Rolex Miami store
WatchesDec 10, 2025
There’s A New Rolex Boutique in Miami

The new location in the Design District pays homage to Miami’s Art Deco heritage and its connection to the ocean.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy