Grading

GIA Detects 101 Undisclosed Synthetics in Melee Parcel

GradingMar 15, 2017

GIA Detects 101 Undisclosed Synthetics in Melee Parcel

Nearly one-third of the diamonds in a parcel screened by the GIA’s Mumbai lab were found to be lab-grown diamonds.

Mumbai--The Gemological Institute of America recently screened a parcel of diamond melee and found that nearly a third of the stones were undisclosed synthetics.

The GIA confirmed to National Jeweler that of a parcel containing 323 diamonds, 101 were lab-grown stones. The parcel had been submitted for screening to the GIA’s Mumbai lab and the diamonds were detected using the GIA’s new melee diamond analysis service.

The GIA launched its melee diamond analysis service in December last year. The fully automated system screens between 1,800 and 2,000 stones an hour, separating natural, untreated stones from treated and lab-grown ones, both HPHT (high-pressure, high-temperature treatment) and CVD (chemical vapor disposition).

The service also separates diamonds by color range.

The 101 synthetic diamonds caught in Mumbai were grown using the CVD process, the GIA said.

For its melee analysis service, the GIA accepts round D to Z diamonds from 0.90 to 4.00 mm in size, or roughly 0.005 to 0.25 carats.

Since introducing the melee screening service in most of its labs worldwide, this is the first time the GIA “has seen such a significant percentage of CVD melee mixed with natural melee,” a spokesperson told National Jeweler.

The GIA declined to comment when asked if they believed the inclusion of the undisclosed lab-grown stones was intentional or if they would pursue any type of action against the submitter.

The detection of lab-grown melee is one of the biggest challenges facing diamond grading labs today, as they work to develop machines that can quickly and cost effectively screen small stones.

In addition to the GIA’s recently launched melee screening service, De Beers just introduced the second, substantially cheaper version of its Automated Melee Screener.

Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

Daughters of the Deep indicolite earrings
EditorsNov 06, 2026
The Spectrum Pieces I Can’t Stop Thinking About

From a Betta fish brooch to a “dragon’s trove” of zircon eggs, here are seven pieces that’ve stuck with Associate Editor Lauren McLemore.

Pat Pruitt Dragonfly Earrings
TrendsNov 06, 2026
Pat Pruitt’s DragonFly Earrings Take Flight on Election Night

Groundbreaking New Mexico Governor-elect Deb Haaland wore the earrings, our Piece of the Week, when she declared victory on Tuesday.

Colin Jost in Kay Jewelers holiday ad
MajorsNov 06, 2026
SNL’s Colin Jost Finds the Perfect Gift in Kay Jewelers’ Holiday Ad

Jost goes on an epic journey, traversing rough seas and encountering a cyclops, to discover the perfect holiday gift.

overnight btyb 1026.png
Brought to you by
How Overnight Mountings’ Bridal Builder Makes Custom Engagement Ring Design Easier to Sell

With customization becoming more expected in engagement ring shopping, the Bridal Builder makes the process tangible.

GCAL 8X_NJSB_1.jpg
Supplier BulletinNov 05, 2026
Winning With GCAL 8X®: What’s Working at the Counter

Sponsored by GCAL by Sarine

Weekly QuizNov 05, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Wrapped holiday gift boxes
SurveysNov 05, 2026
What Retailers Should Know About Holiday Shoppers This Year

From shrinking budgets to AI elves, here are five takeaways from holiday reports by Bain, Adobe, Mastercard, NRF, and insights from YouGov.

Little Pet Portrait Pendants by Russell Jones & Judi Powers
CollectionsNov 05, 2026
Judi Powers, Russell Jones Unleash Joy With New Collaboration

The designers combined their talents for Little Pet Portraits, hand-painted miniatures of our best friends set in a piece of jewelry.

DeBeersICONS_TITLE1_CUSTOMCONTENT_1872x1052 (1).jpg
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Launches 2026 Holiday Campaign Championing Natural Diamonds

A Diamond Is Forever's holiday campaign reimagines natural diamond icons for a new generation celebrating individuality.

Brilliant Earth Elizabeth Taylor jewelry
FinancialsNov 05, 2026
Brilliant Earth Continued to Resonate With High-Income Shoppers in Q3

Its non-bridal fine jewelry remains the star of the show, recently launching new collections inspired by Elizabeth Taylor and Jane Goodall.

Swarovski Joy: The Swarovski Musical Campaign with Ariana Grande
MajorsNov 05, 2026
Ariana Grande Stars In Swarovski’s Holiday Campaign

“Joy: The Swarovski Musical” features Ariana Grande as the leading lady in scenes inspired by classic musical montages.

Cartier bracelet and ring
CrimeNov 04, 2026
$250K+ in Undeclared Cartier Jewelry Seized at Philadelphia Airport

A Pennsylvania woman failed to declare a ring and a bracelet, discarding the boxes and receipts to conceal the purchases, officials said.

Pandora celestial chandelier earrings
FinancialsNov 04, 2026
Pandora’s Q3 Sales Up 7% Amid Focus on Design

New collections and relevant marketing pushed the company forward, while Pandora’s lab-grown diamond sales continue to lag.

NYC Jewelry Week Biolgems Jewelry Exhibition
Events & AwardsNov 04, 2026
NYC Jewelry Week 2026 Is the Largest Edition Yet

The citywide celebration, slated for Nov. 16-22, is set to host more than 175 events, including live jewelry-making demos.

Lanessa Elrod
MajorsNov 04, 2026
Bergdorf Goodman Names New President

Lanessa Elrod, former president and CEO of Louis Vuitton Americas, has stepped into the role as the retailer celebrates 125 years.

Replica of Infinity Gauntlet
AuctionsNov 03, 2026
Infinity Gauntlet Set With 170+ Carats of Colored Gemstones Up for Auction

A replica of one of the most powerful objects in the Marvel Cinematic Universe, the glove is heading to auction next month in Abu Dhabi.

Arthur Klein
IndependentsNov 03, 2026
Longtime Jewelry Marketer Arthur Klein Dies at 89

Klein, who had his own marketing agency and worked for Gabriel & Co. and Trans American Diamond, is remembered as a kind man.

Zadok Jewelers
IndependentsNov 03, 2026
Zadok Jewelers Toasts To 50 Years With Diamond Bracelet Giveaway

To enter the giveaway, locals can purchase a featured beverage from one of eight participating restaurants in Houston and Austin, Texas.

David Yurman Gem Awards Grant 2027 Graphic
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2026
David Yurman Gem Awards Grant Opens 2027 Applications

The grant recipient will be awarded $50,000 as well as mentoring meetings with executives at David Yurman and other industry executives.

Kirstin Viland, Joanna Kovacs, Shari Lukacs
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2026
NAJA, Instappraise Name 2026 Scholarship Winners

The winners include a non-NAJA member seeking training, a member beginning NAJA courses, and a member becoming a Certified Master Appraiser.

Sothebys Romanov sapphire
AuctionsNov 02, 2026
197-Carat ‘Romanov Sapphire’ Heads to Sotheby’s Geneva

The rare jewel, which has links to Russia’s Romanov dynasty, is estimated to fetch up to $2 million.

Fake Audemars Piguet watch
CrimeNov 02, 2026
Customs Seizes More Than 400 Fake Audemars Piguet Watches

It is one of several seizures of counterfeit jewelry and watches by U.S. Customs and Border Protection officials in Louisville this year.

Jewelers of America new board members
MajorsNov 02, 2026
Lawrence Bock, Caryl Capeci, Amanda Coleman-Phelps Join JA Board

Jewelers of America announced the additions to its board of directors following its annual general meeting, held last week.

Kristi Yamaguchi Wearing Always Dream Collection
CollectionsNov 02, 2026
Olympian Kristi Yamaguchi, Heller Jewelers Expand ‘Always Dream’ Collection

The jewelry collection supports Yamaguchi’s Always Dream foundation, which provides reading and educational resources to families in need.

2026 AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards Best Of Winners
Events & AwardsOct 30, 2026
Illuminating Carved Paraiba Pendant, Suite of Moonstones Wow at Spectrum Awards

Spectrum’s “Best of Show” honors went to a 101-carat Paraiba carved to look like Medusa that has a magnet-activated LED light.

Edina Kiss Eye Pendants on Charm Necklace
TrendsOct 30, 2026
Edina Kiss’ Pendants Say ‘Eye’m Watching You’

Our Halloween Pieces of the Week are four “Eye” pendants, each set with colorful gemstones.

Alexis Hoopes
MajorsOct 30, 2026
The RealReal Hires Former eBay Exec as New Chief Merchandising Officer

Alexis Hoopes expanded eBay’s “Authenticity Guarantee” program during her tenure.

Rolex store exterior Bellevue Washington
WatchesOct 29, 2026
Bucherer Opens Rolex Boutique in Washington State

The Rolex-owned retailer’s new 4,700-square-foot store’s façade honors the Pacific Northwest’s evergreen forests.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy