Grading

GIA Detects 101 Undisclosed Synthetics in Melee Parcel

GradingMar 15, 2017

GIA Detects 101 Undisclosed Synthetics in Melee Parcel

Nearly one-third of the diamonds in a parcel screened by the GIA’s Mumbai lab were found to be lab-grown diamonds.

Mumbai--The Gemological Institute of America recently screened a parcel of diamond melee and found that nearly a third of the stones were undisclosed synthetics.

The GIA confirmed to National Jeweler that of a parcel containing 323 diamonds, 101 were lab-grown stones. The parcel had been submitted for screening to the GIA’s Mumbai lab and the diamonds were detected using the GIA’s new melee diamond analysis service.

The GIA launched its melee diamond analysis service in December last year. The fully automated system screens between 1,800 and 2,000 stones an hour, separating natural, untreated stones from treated and lab-grown ones, both HPHT (high-pressure, high-temperature treatment) and CVD (chemical vapor disposition).

The service also separates diamonds by color range.

The 101 synthetic diamonds caught in Mumbai were grown using the CVD process, the GIA said.

For its melee analysis service, the GIA accepts round D to Z diamonds from 0.90 to 4.00 mm in size, or roughly 0.005 to 0.25 carats.

Since introducing the melee screening service in most of its labs worldwide, this is the first time the GIA “has seen such a significant percentage of CVD melee mixed with natural melee,” a spokesperson told National Jeweler.

The GIA declined to comment when asked if they believed the inclusion of the undisclosed lab-grown stones was intentional or if they would pursue any type of action against the submitter.

The detection of lab-grown melee is one of the biggest challenges facing diamond grading labs today, as they work to develop machines that can quickly and cost effectively screen small stones.

In addition to the GIA’s recently launched melee screening service, De Beers just introduced the second, substantially cheaper version of its Automated Melee Screener.

Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

Korman jewelry store Austin
IndependentsSep 08, 2025
Take a Look Inside the New Korman Store in Austin

The Texas-based jeweler has also undergone a brand refresh, debuting a new website and logo.

Logos for Manufacturing Jewelers & Suppliers of America and Jewelers of America
MajorsSep 08, 2025
MJSA Is Officially Now Under JA’s Umbrella

The two organizations have finalized and signed the affiliation agreement announced in May.

Sothebys JAR and Suzanne Belperron jewels
AuctionsSep 08, 2025
Sotheby’s To Auction ‘Exceptional’ Collection of JAR, Suzanne Belperron Jewels

The single-owner sale will headline Sotheby's inaugural jewelry auction at the Breuer building, its new global headquarters, this December.

reDollar-fine-jewelry-department.jpg
Brought to you by
reDollar.com Is Rolling Out the Next Level Jewelry, Diamond & Watch Consignment Program

With their unmatched services and low fees, reDollar.com is challenging some big names in the online consignment world.

A street in Carlsbad California
Events & AwardsSep 08, 2025
27 Can’t-Miss Converge Sessions, Events

From sunrise yoga to tariffs talks, these are some events to check out at the upcoming inaugural event.

Weekly QuizSep 04, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsSep 05, 2025
Peter Smith: A Lasting Lesson From Maurice Tempelsman

Smith recalls a bit of wisdom the industry leader, who died last week, shared at a diamond conference years ago.

Jamie Turner Victoria Labradorite Necklace
CollectionsSep 05, 2025
Piece of the Week: Jamie Turner’s ‘Victoria’ Necklace

The “Victoria” necklace features a labradorite hugged by diamond accents in 18-karat yellow gold.

japac-btyb.png
Brought to you by
Rallying Call for the Jewelry Industry on Tariffs and Other Key Issues

Jewelers of America is leading the charge to protect the industry amidst rising economic threats.

Stock image of the U.S. Supreme Court
Policies & IssuesSep 05, 2025
Trump Takes Tariffs Case to the Supreme Court

Two lower courts have moved to block the import taxes, which will remain in place as the legal battle continues.

Patrick Mahomes Hublot campaign
WatchesSep 05, 2025
Patrick Mahomes Is the New Hublot Brand Ambassador

The Kansas City Chiefs quarterback shares Hublot’s dedication to pursuing greatness, the Swiss watchmaker said.

gia-edu main image.png
Supplier BulletinSep 04, 2025
A Brilliant Future Is Here

Sponsored by GIA

Lucara pink diamond
SourcingSep 04, 2025
Lucara Unveils Unusual 37-Carat Pink Diamond

The Type IIa stone, recovered from Botswana’s Karowe diamond mine last month, features unique coloration.

Shot from Breitling new NFL campaign
WatchesSep 04, 2025
Breitling Takes Its NFL Game to the Next Level

Breitling is now the NFL’s official timepiece partner, a move that puts the brand in front of the millions of Americans who watch football.

NYC Jewelry, Antique, & Object Show Autumn 2025
Events & AwardsSep 04, 2025
The NYC Jewelry, Antique, & Object Show Returns in November

NYCJAOS is set for Nov. 21-23 in New York City’s Chelsea neighborhood.

Fabergé x Gemfields Malaika Egg
SourcingSep 03, 2025
Gemfields Confirms Completion of Fabergé Sale

U.S.-based investment company SMG Capital LLC is the new owner of the luxury brand.

Claire’s storefront
MajorsSep 03, 2025
These Are the Nearly 300 Claire’s Stores Set to Close

A new court filing details the locations of the stores that will close, as well as the 830 that will remain open.

Stuller’s Tools, Equipment, & Metals and Findings & Metals Catalogs
MajorsSep 03, 2025
Stuller Releases 2 New Catalogs

The new catalogs are “Tools, Equipment, & Metals” and “Findings & Metals.”

Effy Jewelry Multicolor Sapphire Bangle
TrendsSep 03, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: A Perfect Birthstone

Sapphire’s variety of colors make it the perfect birthstone for September.

Woman with hands crossed wearing jewelry
FinancialsSep 02, 2025
Lab-Grown Diamonds, Lower-Priced Fashion Jewelry Drive Signet Jewelers’ Q2 Sales

The retailer has raised its guidance after seeing total sales increase 3 percent in the second quarter, beating expectations.

Jean-Christophe Bédos Birks
MajorsSep 02, 2025
Birks CEO Jean-Christophe Bédos Steps Down

Niccolò Rossi di Montelera, executive chairman of the board, was appointed as interim CEO.

Harry Winston Ginza Flagship Exterior, Interior
MajorsSep 02, 2025
Harry Winston Opens Its Largest Flagship in Japan

The three-floor space also features the jeweler’s largest VIP salon in Japan and offers an exclusive diamond pendant.

All Hours: Stephanie Gottlieb Fine Jewelry x Oak and Luna Campaign Imagery
CollectionsSep 02, 2025
Stephanie Gottlieb Debuts Silver Designs in ‘All Hours’ Collab

The collection is a collaboration between Stephanie Gottlieb Fine Jewelry and Oak and Luna, focusing on understated essentials.

Sothebys The Desert Rose orangy pink diamond collectors week
AuctionsAug 29, 2025
Sotheby’s UAE Sale to Feature 32-Carat Fancy Vivid Orangy Pink Diamond

The highlight of a single-owner jewelry and watch collection, it’s estimated to fetch up to $7 million at auction this December.

Calvin Klein watch and jewelry campaign
FinancialsAug 29, 2025
Movado’s Q2 Sales Rebound Despite Tariff Impact

CEO Efraim Grinberg noted a resurgence in the fashion watch market.

Mark Davis Bullseye Necklace
CollectionsAug 29, 2025
Piece of the Week: Mark Davis’ ‘Bullseye’ Necklace

The “Bullseye” necklace, with vintage bakelite and peridot, August’s birthstone, is the perfect transitional piece as summer turns to fall.

Image #1_Resized.png
Supplier BulletinAug 28, 2025
Clientbook Is Helping Jewelers Turn Clienteling Challenges into Wins with Hands-On Training and Coaching

Sponsored by Clientbook

Botswana President Duma Boko
SourcingAug 28, 2025
Botswana Declares Public Health Emergency Amid Diamond Sales Slump

President Duma Boko addressed the country’s medical supply chain crisis in a recent televised address.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy