IndependentsFeb 19, 2026
Bailey’s Fine Jewelry Co-Founder ‘Mama Ann’ Bailey Dies at 100Raised in an orphanage, Bailey was 18 when she met her husband, Clyde. They opened their North Carolina jewelry store in 1948.
EditorsJan 30, 2020
20 Designers to Watch in 2020 and Beyond: Conscious Makers
Meet four brands that marry design with responsible practices.
A ring from Prounis
In the final installment of 20 Designers to Watch in 2020 and Beyond, I focus on what will arguably be the most important element of jewelry-making this decade—ethical practices.
The “Conscious Makers” are companies that incorporate responsible ways of doing business into their DNA and communicate their practices to consumers, whether it be transparent and ethical sourcing, employing local artisans or paying employees a living wage.
The “Conscious Makers” are companies that incorporate responsible ways of doing business into their DNA and communicate their practices to consumers, whether it be transparent and ethical sourcing, employing local artisans or paying employees a living wage.
As the consumer becomes more educated and aware, these brands have the foresight to marry their creativity as artists with their commitment to environmental and social progress, holding themselves to a high standard and serving as an example to their peers.
Read Part IV of 20 Designers to Watch in 2020 and Beyond here.
Conscious Makers: Melissa Joy Manning, Wwake, Prounis, KatKim
Melissa Joy Manning
Melissa Joy Manning
Founded: 1997
Based In: Berkeley, California and Brooklyn, New York
Key Retailers: Esqueleto, New Twist, Net-a-Porter, Silverado Jewelry Gallery
Founded: 1997
Based In: Berkeley, California and Brooklyn, New York
Key Retailers: Esqueleto, New Twist, Net-a-Porter, Silverado Jewelry Gallery
Among her peers, Melissa Joy Manning is considered the forerunner in the realm of eco-conscious jewelry, setting the bar for responsibility in multiple areas.
The designer’s elegant, easy-to-throw-on oeuvre is handmade to order, crafted in recycled metals and responsibly sourced stones in a certified Green studio where every shipment is carbon-offset through partnership with the UPS carbon-neutral emissions program.
Manning’s holistic approach to sustainability extends to her team. Employees are paid a living wage and full benefits.
Wages and benefits are perhaps the least-talked-about element of conscious business in the jewelry industry now but, as always, Manning is pushing the conversation front and center, as she continues to embody environmental and social values.
Wwake
Designer: Wing Yau
Founded: 2013
Based In: Brooklyn
Key Retailers: Net-a-Porter, Catbird, Nordstrom
Wwake has made a concerted effort to embody sustainability and environmental responsibility in the fine jewelry world, becoming one of the most conscious brands today. Its vision is informed by its 90 percent female staff, including its entirely female in-house staff of bench jewelers, a rarity in the jewelry industry.
Handmade in Brooklyn, Wwake sources stones from carefully-vetted dealers and at times works directly with miners.
But the brand also puts a focus on low-impact materials when it can, including the use of recycled diamonds, recycled gold certified by SCS Global Services, a third-party verification organization, Fairmined certified gold, as well as the sourcing of antique diamonds and rough gems mined in the 1980s and 1990s so as not to contribute to present-day mining.
Jean Prounis
Prounis
Designer: Jean Prounis
Founded: 2017
Based In: New York
Key Retailers: Bergdorf Goodman, Dover Street Market, Twist, Catbird
Designer: Jean Prounis
Founded: 2017
Based In: New York
Key Retailers: Bergdorf Goodman, Dover Street Market, Twist, Catbird
The youngest brand in the 20 Designers to Watch series, Prounis has made a quick impact with its refined take on jewelry inspired by antiquity.
“It’s so refreshing to see a jeweler, especially a young one, eschewing novelty for novelty’s sake and really celebrating old-world craftsmanship,” jewelry editor and stylist Kareem Rashed said of designer Jean Prounis.
“Her reverence for history and ability to distill designs down to their purest form is really special.”
A young designer with an old soul and appreciation for history, Prounis applies the same defining maturity running through her design aesthetic to her small business practices.
Her female-run studio works in recycled gold and responsibly sourced gemstones, keeping ancient jewelry traditions like granulation alive.
The majority of the handmade production is made to order, “which allows us to control our ecological footprint and create jewelry with a purpose,” the designer said.
Katherine Kim
KatKim
Designer: Katherine Kim
Founded: 2015
Based In: New York
Key Retailers: Moda Operandi, Net-a-Porter and Goop
Designer: Katherine Kim
Founded: 2015
Based In: New York
Key Retailers: Moda Operandi, Net-a-Porter and Goop
On a purely design basis, the eco-conscious fashion sector has had an uphill battle shedding its drab reputation. Enter KatKim, a Central Saint Martins graduate who doesn’t sacrifice vision for responsible production.
“We go to great lengths to see that our philosophy is applied to every aspect of our design and productions, and are committed to remaining transparent in our processes and selections as we seek to continually improve our overall impact on our planet,” designer Katherine Kim said.
Handmade in Los Angeles by master artisans, KatKim’s avant-garde creations, like the signature “Ear Pin,” are made from responsibly sourced diamonds and SCS-certified Fairmined gold.
The brand has become a celebrity staple, pictured on a constant rotation of red carpets, delivering its responsible ethos by way of a cooler-than-cool aesthetic.
More on Editors
The Latest
ColumnistsFeb 19, 2026
Peter Smith: Happiness, Cavemen, and Jewelry SalesSmith encourages salespeople to ask customers questions that elicit the release of oxytocin, the brain’s “feel-good” chemical.
IndependentsFeb 19, 2026
Material Good Opens Third Location Material Good is celebrating its 10th anniversary as it opens its new store in the Back Bay neighborhood of Boston.
Brought to you by
The MJSA Mentor & Apprenticeship Program: Attracting & Training the Next Generation of Bench JewelersLaunched in 2023, the program will help the passing of knowledge between generations and alleviate the shortage of bench jewelers.
Events & AwardsFeb 19, 2026
The Original Miami Beach Antique Show Returns in MarchThe show will be held March 26-30 at the Miami Beach Convention Center.
Weekly QuizFeb 12, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
AuctionsFeb 18, 2026
Joanna Carson’s Jewels Head to AuctionThe estate of the model, philanthropist, and ex-wife of Johnny Carson has signed statement jewels up for sale at John Moran Auctioneers.
PodcastsFeb 18, 2026
Episode 2: Jewelry Trends & Does the Red Carpet Matter?Are arm bands poised to make a comeback? Has red-carpet jewelry become boring? Find out on the second episode of the “My Next Question” podcast.
Brought to you by
How Jewelers Can Fight Back Against Cell JammersCriminals are using cell jammers to disable alarms, but new technology like JamAlert™ can stop them.
MajorsFeb 18, 2026
Select Jewelry Inks Agreement to Distribute Lightweight Gold JewelryIt will lead distribution in North America for Graziella Braccialini's new gold pieces, which it said are 50 percent lighter.
Policies & IssuesFeb 18, 2026
Community for Ethical Jewelry Looks for Executive DirectorThe organization is seeking a new executive director to lead it into its next phase of strategic growth and industry influence.
Events & AwardsFeb 18, 2026
DCA to Host Gemstone Selling Education Session at IJO EventThe nonprofit will present a live, two-hour introductory course on building confidence when selling colored gemstones.
TrendsFeb 17, 2026
A Bit of Jewelry for the Year of the HorseWestern wear continues to trend in the Year of the Fire Horse and along with it, horse and horseshoe motifs in jewelry.
SourcingFeb 17, 2026
Colored Gemstone Experts Talk Tariffs, Trends in TucsonAlthough the market is robust, tariffs and precious metal prices are impacting the industry, Stuart Robertson and Brecken Branstrator said.
GradingFeb 17, 2026
Dr. George Rossman, Former GIA Governor, Dies at 81Rossman, who advised GIA for more than 50 years, is remembered for his passion and dedication to the field of gemology.
CrimeFeb 13, 2026
JSA Offering $10K Reward in Nancy Guthrie Case Guthrie, the mother of “Today” show host Savannah Guthrie, was abducted just as the Tucson gem shows were starting.
IndependentsFeb 13, 2026
97-Year-Old New Mexico Jewelry Store To CloseButterfield Jewelers in Albuquerque, New Mexico, is preparing to close as members of the Butterfield family head into retirement.
CollectionsFeb 13, 2026
A ‘Rosebud’ Necklace for Valentine’s DayPaul Morelli’s “Rosebud” necklace, our Piece of the Week, uses 18-karat rose, green, and white gold to turn the symbol of love into jewelry.
MajorsFeb 13, 2026
JFC Announces New BeneficiariesThe nonprofit has welcomed four new grantees for 2026.
MajorsFeb 12, 2026
These 8 Saks Fifth Avenue Stores Are ClosingParent company Saks Global is also closing nearly all Saks Off 5th locations, a Neiman Marcus store, and 14 personal styling suites.
CollectionsFeb 12, 2026
British Museum Raises $5M to Keep Jewel Linked to Henry VIII, Katherine of AragonIt is believed the 24-karat heart-shaped enameled pendant was made for an event marking the betrothal of Princess Mary in 1518.
SourcingFeb 12, 2026
‘Cotton Candy’ Necklace, 35-Carat Kunzite Win 2025 ‘Buyer’s Choice’ AwardsThe AGTA Spectrum and Cutting Edge “Buyer’s Choice” award winners were announced at the Spectrum Awards Gala last week.
Events & AwardsFeb 12, 2026
Kering Opens Entries for 2026 Sustainability-Focused AwardThe “Kering Generation Award x Jewelry” returns for its second year with “Second Chance, First Choice” as its theme.
TrendsFeb 11, 2026
Halle Berry’s Retro Engagement Ring Is a Sapphire-Set StunnerSourced by For Future Reference Vintage, the yellow gold ring has a round center stone surrounded by step-cut sapphires.
MajorsFeb 11, 2026
Francesca’s Files for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy AgainThe clothing and accessories chain announced last month it would be closing all of its stores.
CollectionsFeb 11, 2026
Zales Turns Sweethearts Into Jewelry for Valentine’s Day CollectionThe “Zales x Sweethearts” collection features three mystery heart charms engraved with classic sayings seen on the Valentine’s Day candies.
TechnologyFeb 11, 2026
Gemvision Symposium 2026 Slated for AprilThe event will include panel discussions, hands-on demonstrations of new digital manufacturing tools, and a jewelry design contest.
Events & AwardsFeb 11, 2026
TJS Announces Roundtable, Launches New AppRegistration is now open for The Jewelry Symposium, set to take place in Detroit from May 16-19.
