Events & AwardsApr 18, 2025
Daymond John to Give Keynote at JCK Las VegasThe entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.
EditorsJan 30, 2020
20 Designers to Watch in 2020 and Beyond: Conscious Makers
Meet four brands that marry design with responsible practices.
A ring from Prounis
In the final installment of 20 Designers to Watch in 2020 and Beyond, I focus on what will arguably be the most important element of jewelry-making this decade—ethical practices.
The “Conscious Makers” are companies that incorporate responsible ways of doing business into their DNA and communicate their practices to consumers, whether it be transparent and ethical sourcing, employing local artisans or paying employees a living wage.
The “Conscious Makers” are companies that incorporate responsible ways of doing business into their DNA and communicate their practices to consumers, whether it be transparent and ethical sourcing, employing local artisans or paying employees a living wage.
As the consumer becomes more educated and aware, these brands have the foresight to marry their creativity as artists with their commitment to environmental and social progress, holding themselves to a high standard and serving as an example to their peers.
Read Part IV of 20 Designers to Watch in 2020 and Beyond here.
Conscious Makers: Melissa Joy Manning, Wwake, Prounis, KatKim
Melissa Joy Manning
Melissa Joy Manning
Founded: 1997
Based In: Berkeley, California and Brooklyn, New York
Key Retailers: Esqueleto, New Twist, Net-a-Porter, Silverado Jewelry Gallery
Founded: 1997
Based In: Berkeley, California and Brooklyn, New York
Key Retailers: Esqueleto, New Twist, Net-a-Porter, Silverado Jewelry Gallery
Among her peers, Melissa Joy Manning is considered the forerunner in the realm of eco-conscious jewelry, setting the bar for responsibility in multiple areas.
The designer’s elegant, easy-to-throw-on oeuvre is handmade to order, crafted in recycled metals and responsibly sourced stones in a certified Green studio where every shipment is carbon-offset through partnership with the UPS carbon-neutral emissions program.
Manning’s holistic approach to sustainability extends to her team. Employees are paid a living wage and full benefits.
Wages and benefits are perhaps the least-talked-about element of conscious business in the jewelry industry now but, as always, Manning is pushing the conversation front and center, as she continues to embody environmental and social values.
Wwake
Designer: Wing Yau
Founded: 2013
Based In: Brooklyn
Key Retailers: Net-a-Porter, Catbird, Nordstrom
Wwake has made a concerted effort to embody sustainability and environmental responsibility in the fine jewelry world, becoming one of the most conscious brands today. Its vision is informed by its 90 percent female staff, including its entirely female in-house staff of bench jewelers, a rarity in the jewelry industry.
Handmade in Brooklyn, Wwake sources stones from carefully-vetted dealers and at times works directly with miners.
But the brand also puts a focus on low-impact materials when it can, including the use of recycled diamonds, recycled gold certified by SCS Global Services, a third-party verification organization, Fairmined certified gold, as well as the sourcing of antique diamonds and rough gems mined in the 1980s and 1990s so as not to contribute to present-day mining.
Jean Prounis
Prounis
Designer: Jean Prounis
Founded: 2017
Based In: New York
Key Retailers: Bergdorf Goodman, Dover Street Market, Twist, Catbird
Designer: Jean Prounis
Founded: 2017
Based In: New York
Key Retailers: Bergdorf Goodman, Dover Street Market, Twist, Catbird
The youngest brand in the 20 Designers to Watch series, Prounis has made a quick impact with its refined take on jewelry inspired by antiquity.
“It’s so refreshing to see a jeweler, especially a young one, eschewing novelty for novelty’s sake and really celebrating old-world craftsmanship,” jewelry editor and stylist Kareem Rashed said of designer Jean Prounis.
“Her reverence for history and ability to distill designs down to their purest form is really special.”
A young designer with an old soul and appreciation for history, Prounis applies the same defining maturity running through her design aesthetic to her small business practices.
Her female-run studio works in recycled gold and responsibly sourced gemstones, keeping ancient jewelry traditions like granulation alive.
The majority of the handmade production is made to order, “which allows us to control our ecological footprint and create jewelry with a purpose,” the designer said.
Katherine Kim
KatKim
Designer: Katherine Kim
Founded: 2015
Based In: New York
Key Retailers: Moda Operandi, Net-a-Porter and Goop
Designer: Katherine Kim
Founded: 2015
Based In: New York
Key Retailers: Moda Operandi, Net-a-Porter and Goop
On a purely design basis, the eco-conscious fashion sector has had an uphill battle shedding its drab reputation. Enter KatKim, a Central Saint Martins graduate who doesn’t sacrifice vision for responsible production.
“We go to great lengths to see that our philosophy is applied to every aspect of our design and productions, and are committed to remaining transparent in our processes and selections as we seek to continually improve our overall impact on our planet,” designer Katherine Kim said.
Handmade in Los Angeles by master artisans, KatKim’s avant-garde creations, like the signature “Ear Pin,” are made from responsibly sourced diamonds and SCS-certified Fairmined gold.
The brand has become a celebrity staple, pictured on a constant rotation of red carpets, delivering its responsible ethos by way of a cooler-than-cool aesthetic.
More on Editors
The Latest
CollectionsApr 18, 2025
Piece of the Week: Dukachi’s ‘Easter Bread’ PendantThe Ukrainian brand’s new pendant is modeled after a traditional paska, a pastry often baked for Easter in Eastern European cultures.
IndependentsApr 18, 2025
Bremer Jewelry to Reveal Renovated StoreThe jeweler has announced a grand reopening for its recently remodeled location in Peoria, Illinois.
MajorsApr 18, 2025
Tiffany & Co. Employees Star in Mother’s Day CampaignThe “Strong Like Mom” campaign features moms who work at Tiffany & Co. and their children.
Weekly QuizApr 18, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CollectionsApr 17, 2025
John Hardy, Athena Calderone Partner on Art Deco Decor-Inspired CollectionInterior designer Athena Calderone looked to decor from the 1920s and 1930s when crafting her first fine jewelry collection.
FinancialsApr 17, 2025
Movado Group to Increase Prices to Offset Tariffs ImpactDuring a call about its full-year results, CEO Efraim Grinberg discussed how the company is approaching the uncertainty surrounding tariffs.
Brought to you by
The Heart of the Industry: Giving Bench Jewelers the Recognition They DeserveBench jewelers spend years honing their skills, Jewelers of America’s Certification validates their talents.
Lab-GrownApr 17, 2025
NDC Launches Its Diamond Learning CenterThe free program provides educational content for jewelry salespeople and enthusiasts to learn or refresh their diamond knowledge.
Policies & IssuesApr 17, 2025
Jewelers of America Requests Tariffs Testimonials from MembersThe feedback will be used to prepare other jewelers for the challenges ahead, the organization said.
TechnologyApr 17, 2025
Technology Therapy Group Expands AI Training for Jewelry RetailersThe online sessions are designed to teach jewelers to use AI tools like ChatGPT and Claude to grow their business.
IndependentsApr 16, 2025
Catbird Expands to ChicagoThe opening marks the jewelry retailer’s first location in the Midwest.
CollectionsApr 16, 2025
Foundrae’s First Commitment Jewelry Collection Unites Through LoveThe “United in Love” collection offers tangible mementos of hearts entwined with traditional and non-traditional commitment heirlooms.
IndependentsApr 16, 2025
Indiana Jeweler to Host Black Jewelry Designer Pop-UpRobert Goodman Jewelers will hold a “Black Jewelry Designers and Makers” event on April 27.
MajorsApr 16, 2025
WJA Announces Board Members, New Chicago Chapter PresidentThe announcements follow a tumultuous start to 2025 for WJA, which saw a wave of resignations following controversial statements about DEI.
AuctionsApr 15, 2025
23-Carat ‘Golconda Blue’ Heads to AuctionThe historic fancy vivid blue diamond set to headline Christie’s Geneva sale next month could sell for up to $50 million.
FinancialsApr 15, 2025
LVMH’s Q1 Sales Slip 2 PercentLVMH CFO Cécile Cabanis also discussed the effects of tariffs so far.
CrimeApr 15, 2025
Jon Hamm Plays a Jewel Thief on Apple TV+The “Mad Men” and “The Morning Show” star steals jewelry, art, and handbags from his wealthy neighbors in “Your Friends & Neighbors.”
SourcingApr 15, 2025
Diamond Club West Coast Names 2025 BoardThe organization has reelected Kalpesh Jhaveri as president.
FinancialsApr 14, 2025
Movado to Restate Years of Financials Due to ‘Misconduct’ in Dubai An investigation found that the former managing director of Movado’s Dubai branch overstated and prematurely recorded sales.
CollectionsApr 14, 2025
Sauer Embraces Emptiness Through ‘Ma’ CollectionThe collection pays tribute to the Japanese philosophy of Ma, studying balance, stillness, and the interplay between presence and absence.
IndependentsApr 14, 2025
Illinois Jeweler Closing After 45 YearsMari Lou’s Fine Jewelry in Orland Park, a suburb of Chicago, is closing its doors.
GradingApr 14, 2025
GIA Expands Overseas Services as Tariffs Kick InGIA’s labs in Dubai and Hong Kong are now accepting larger diamonds in light of the “logistical challenges” presented by the new tariffs.
AuctionsApr 11, 2025
Piece of the Week: A Replica of Princess Grace’s Wedding EarringsThese earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels, featuring the same design as a pair worn by Princess Grace, are up for auction at Woolley & Wallis.
Recorded WebinarsApr 11, 2025
Watch: Top Tips for Saving Time With AITwo experts share how artificial intelligence tools can help retailers run a more efficient business.
SourcingApr 11, 2025
Mikimoto Names New President, CEO for U.S. DivisionKentaro Nishimura, who has been with the pearl company since 1997, has been promoted to president and CEO of Mikimoto America.
WatchesApr 11, 2025
Bulova Documentary Now on Amazon Prime“America Telling Time: 150 Years of Bulova” explores the storied history of the American watchmaker.
