SourcingOct 09, 2025
Feriel Zerouki Is Leaving De Beers The company and industry leader’s two-decade tenure with De Beers will come to a close at the end of the month.
EditorsJan 30, 2020
20 Designers to Watch in 2020 and Beyond: Conscious Makers
Meet four brands that marry design with responsible practices.
A ring from Prounis
In the final installment of 20 Designers to Watch in 2020 and Beyond, I focus on what will arguably be the most important element of jewelry-making this decade—ethical practices.
The “Conscious Makers” are companies that incorporate responsible ways of doing business into their DNA and communicate their practices to consumers, whether it be transparent and ethical sourcing, employing local artisans or paying employees a living wage.
The “Conscious Makers” are companies that incorporate responsible ways of doing business into their DNA and communicate their practices to consumers, whether it be transparent and ethical sourcing, employing local artisans or paying employees a living wage.
As the consumer becomes more educated and aware, these brands have the foresight to marry their creativity as artists with their commitment to environmental and social progress, holding themselves to a high standard and serving as an example to their peers.
Read Part IV of 20 Designers to Watch in 2020 and Beyond here.
Conscious Makers: Melissa Joy Manning, Wwake, Prounis, KatKim
Melissa Joy Manning
Melissa Joy Manning
Founded: 1997
Based In: Berkeley, California and Brooklyn, New York
Key Retailers: Esqueleto, New Twist, Net-a-Porter, Silverado Jewelry Gallery
Founded: 1997
Based In: Berkeley, California and Brooklyn, New York
Key Retailers: Esqueleto, New Twist, Net-a-Porter, Silverado Jewelry Gallery
Among her peers, Melissa Joy Manning is considered the forerunner in the realm of eco-conscious jewelry, setting the bar for responsibility in multiple areas.
The designer’s elegant, easy-to-throw-on oeuvre is handmade to order, crafted in recycled metals and responsibly sourced stones in a certified Green studio where every shipment is carbon-offset through partnership with the UPS carbon-neutral emissions program.
Manning’s holistic approach to sustainability extends to her team. Employees are paid a living wage and full benefits.
Wages and benefits are perhaps the least-talked-about element of conscious business in the jewelry industry now but, as always, Manning is pushing the conversation front and center, as she continues to embody environmental and social values.
Wwake
Designer: Wing Yau
Founded: 2013
Based In: Brooklyn
Key Retailers: Net-a-Porter, Catbird, Nordstrom
Wwake has made a concerted effort to embody sustainability and environmental responsibility in the fine jewelry world, becoming one of the most conscious brands today. Its vision is informed by its 90 percent female staff, including its entirely female in-house staff of bench jewelers, a rarity in the jewelry industry.
Handmade in Brooklyn, Wwake sources stones from carefully-vetted dealers and at times works directly with miners.
But the brand also puts a focus on low-impact materials when it can, including the use of recycled diamonds, recycled gold certified by SCS Global Services, a third-party verification organization, Fairmined certified gold, as well as the sourcing of antique diamonds and rough gems mined in the 1980s and 1990s so as not to contribute to present-day mining.
Jean Prounis
Prounis
Designer: Jean Prounis
Founded: 2017
Based In: New York
Key Retailers: Bergdorf Goodman, Dover Street Market, Twist, Catbird
Designer: Jean Prounis
Founded: 2017
Based In: New York
Key Retailers: Bergdorf Goodman, Dover Street Market, Twist, Catbird
The youngest brand in the 20 Designers to Watch series, Prounis has made a quick impact with its refined take on jewelry inspired by antiquity.
“It’s so refreshing to see a jeweler, especially a young one, eschewing novelty for novelty’s sake and really celebrating old-world craftsmanship,” jewelry editor and stylist Kareem Rashed said of designer Jean Prounis.
“Her reverence for history and ability to distill designs down to their purest form is really special.”
A young designer with an old soul and appreciation for history, Prounis applies the same defining maturity running through her design aesthetic to her small business practices.
Her female-run studio works in recycled gold and responsibly sourced gemstones, keeping ancient jewelry traditions like granulation alive.
The majority of the handmade production is made to order, “which allows us to control our ecological footprint and create jewelry with a purpose,” the designer said.
Katherine Kim
KatKim
Designer: Katherine Kim
Founded: 2015
Based In: New York
Key Retailers: Moda Operandi, Net-a-Porter and Goop
Designer: Katherine Kim
Founded: 2015
Based In: New York
Key Retailers: Moda Operandi, Net-a-Porter and Goop
On a purely design basis, the eco-conscious fashion sector has had an uphill battle shedding its drab reputation. Enter KatKim, a Central Saint Martins graduate who doesn’t sacrifice vision for responsible production.
“We go to great lengths to see that our philosophy is applied to every aspect of our design and productions, and are committed to remaining transparent in our processes and selections as we seek to continually improve our overall impact on our planet,” designer Katherine Kim said.
Handmade in Los Angeles by master artisans, KatKim’s avant-garde creations, like the signature “Ear Pin,” are made from responsibly sourced diamonds and SCS-certified Fairmined gold.
The brand has become a celebrity staple, pictured on a constant rotation of red carpets, delivering its responsible ethos by way of a cooler-than-cool aesthetic.
More on Editors
The Latest
AuctionsOct 09, 2025
This Fabergé Egg Could Crack $27M At Auction“The Winter Egg” set the world auction record for a Fabergé piece twice at previous Christie’s sales.
MajorsOct 09, 2025
Sy Kessler Buying Watch Batteries as Silver Hits Record High The company will pay 1.5x silver’s current spot price for each pound of silver oxide batteries submitted.
Brought to you by
JA New York Fall Is Right Around the CornerThe upcoming show provides savvy retailers with the opportunity to stock their cases with best sellers in advance of the holiday season.
CollectionsOct 09, 2025
Katkim Launches First Men’s CollectionThe line includes a “Shadow” series crafted exclusively for the new men’s offering and reimagined styles from the brand’s core collections.
Weekly QuizOct 09, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SourcingOct 09, 2025
Gemfields’ Mini Mixed-Quality Ruby Auction Garners $11MThe rough on offer was recovered from a newer area at the Montepuez mine.
SourcingOct 08, 2025
In ‘Storied Diamond,’ Jared Jewelers Is Emphasizing the Journey The retailer’s new collection of engagement rings and fashion jewelry is set with natural diamonds that are traceable via blockchain.
CollectionsOct 08, 2025
Emily P. Wheeler Shifts Into Neutral for Latest ‘Ombré’ CollectionThe champagne colorway in her newest “Ombré” collection combines white and trendy brown diamonds, a departure from her usual vibrant hues.
CollectionsOct 08, 2025
Tsuba Designs Inspire Monica Rich Kosann’s New CharmsKosann partnered with the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, to create a set of necklaces inspired by the artwork on samurai sword handguards.
CrimeOct 07, 2025
Men Who Posed as Utility Workers Found Guilty in Jeweler’s MurderCarlos Jose Hernandez and Joshua Zuazo face life in prison for the October 2024 murder of 72-year-old Detroit-area jeweler Hussein Murray.
CollectionsOct 07, 2025
Jessica McCormack Looks to Sea Spirits for ‘Tempest’ CollectionThe brand’s first high jewelry collection, “Tempest” plays with movement while calling to mind the folklore of the sea.
SourcingOct 07, 2025
Columbia Gem House Announces ‘Opals for Outback Heroes’ FundraiserProceeds from its jewelry raffle will go to a volunteer-run fire and rescue group in the Lightning Ridge area of New South Wales, Australia.
MajorsOct 07, 2025
Stuller Names Its S.E.R.V.E Stars for 2025Stuller said the recipients embody the company’s core values, which include community participation and personal and professional growth.
WatchesOct 06, 2025
This Fall, Citizen’s Forecast Calls for RainCitizen’s new “Rainell” women’s watch has a raindrop-shaped case and is available with a silver-, gold-, purple-, or green-colored dial.
AuctionsOct 06, 2025
The ‘Rolex That Made Rolex’ Heads to Auction at Sotheby’s The “Mercedes Gleitze Rolex Oyster,” named for the British endurance swimmer who made it famous, will go up for sale next month.
GradingOct 06, 2025
GIA India Names Former De Beers Exec as New Managing DirectorAmit Pratihari was previously the managing director of De Beers India and Forevermark India.
SourcingOct 06, 2025
SoCal 24 Karat Club Integrates Into Diamond Club West CoastMembers of the Jewelers 24 Karat Club of Southern California will gain access to expanded services, resources, and connections, DCWC said.
TrendsOct 03, 2025
Selena Gomez, Benny Blanco Tie the Knot Wearing Diamonds, White MetalsGomez’s jewelry included Tiffany & Co. drop-style earrings while Blanco stacked diamonds from Jacob & Co. on his wrist.
GradingOct 03, 2025
Grading Lab HRD Antwerp Names New CEODiamond industry banking veteran Paul De Wachter will take on the role in January 2026.
TrendsOct 03, 2025
Piece of the Week: Kallati’s Pink Sapphire RingTaylor Swift flaunts an Elizabeth Taylor-esque gemstone in promo for her new album, “The Life of a Showgirl.”
CollectionsOct 02, 2025
Boucheron Debuts Cuffs Crafted With 3D-Printed SandIts “Quantre Sand” capsule was made using a 3D sand printing technique borrowed from the automotive and aeronautics industries.
CrimeOct 02, 2025
$1M in Jewelry Stolen in Northern California Smash and Grab Four individuals have been charged in the “takeover-style” robbery of Heller Jewelers last month, and additional charges are expected.
MajorsOct 02, 2025
Neil Lane Jewelry Exhibition Coming to Toledo Museum of Art“Radiance and Reverie” will showcase more than 150 jewels from Lane’s personal collection by Tiffany & Co., Cartier, and more.
TrendsOct 02, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: October’s Colorful ShowThe month’s birthstones, tourmaline and opal, complement the palette of autumn.
ColumnistsOct 01, 2025
Peter Smith: Why Vendor Success Starts With Self-ReflectionSmith shares the importance of looking at your company with openness and honesty to identify opportunities you may be missing.
SurveysOct 01, 2025
Consumer Confidence Hits 5-Month Low in September Respondents were concerned about job availability and rising prices.
