Sponsored by American Gem Trade Association
20 Designers to Watch in 2020 and Beyond: Conscious Makers
Meet four brands that marry design with responsible practices.

The “Conscious Makers” are companies that incorporate responsible ways of doing business into their DNA and communicate their practices to consumers, whether it be transparent and ethical sourcing, employing local artisans or paying employees a living wage.
As the consumer becomes more educated and aware, these brands have the foresight to marry their creativity as artists with their commitment to environmental and social progress, holding themselves to a high standard and serving as an example to their peers.
Read Part IV of 20 Designers to Watch in 2020 and Beyond here.
Conscious Makers: Melissa Joy Manning, Wwake, Prounis, KatKim
Founded: 1997
Based In: Berkeley, California and Brooklyn, New York
Key Retailers: Esqueleto, New Twist, Net-a-Porter, Silverado Jewelry Gallery
Among her peers, Melissa Joy Manning is considered the forerunner in the realm of eco-conscious jewelry, setting the bar for responsibility in multiple areas.
The designer’s elegant, easy-to-throw-on oeuvre is handmade to order, crafted in recycled metals and responsibly sourced stones in a certified Green studio where every shipment is carbon-offset through partnership with the UPS carbon-neutral emissions program.
Manning’s holistic approach to sustainability extends to her team. Employees are paid a living wage and full benefits.
Wages and benefits are perhaps the least-talked-about element of conscious business in the jewelry industry now but, as always, Manning is pushing the conversation front and center, as she continues to embody environmental and social values.
Wwake
Designer: Wing Yau
Founded: 2013
Based In: Brooklyn
Key Retailers: Net-a-Porter, Catbird, Nordstrom
Handmade in Brooklyn, Wwake sources stones from carefully-vetted dealers and at times works directly with miners.
But the brand also puts a focus on low-impact materials when it can, including the use of recycled diamonds, recycled gold certified by SCS Global Services, a third-party verification organization, Fairmined certified gold, as well as the sourcing of antique diamonds and rough gems mined in the 1980s and 1990s so as not to contribute to present-day mining.
Designer: Jean Prounis
Founded: 2017
Based In: New York
Key Retailers: Bergdorf Goodman, Dover Street Market, Twist, Catbird
The youngest brand in the 20 Designers to Watch series, Prounis has made a quick impact with its refined take on jewelry inspired by antiquity.
“It’s so refreshing to see a jeweler, especially a young one, eschewing novelty for novelty’s sake and really celebrating old-world craftsmanship,” jewelry editor and stylist Kareem Rashed said of designer Jean Prounis.
“Her reverence for history and ability to distill designs down to their purest form is really special.”
A young designer with an old soul and appreciation for history, Prounis applies the same defining maturity running through her design aesthetic to her small business practices.
Her female-run studio works in recycled gold and responsibly sourced gemstones, keeping ancient jewelry traditions like granulation alive.
The majority of the handmade production is made to order, “which allows us to control our ecological footprint and create jewelry with a purpose,” the designer said.
Designer: Katherine Kim
Founded: 2015
Based In: New York
Key Retailers: Moda Operandi, Net-a-Porter and Goop
On a purely design basis, the eco-conscious fashion sector has had an uphill battle shedding its drab reputation. Enter KatKim, a Central Saint Martins graduate who doesn’t sacrifice vision for responsible production.
“We go to great lengths to see that our philosophy is applied to every aspect of our design and productions, and are committed to remaining transparent in our processes and selections as we seek to continually improve our overall impact on our planet,” designer Katherine Kim said.
Handmade in Los Angeles by master artisans, KatKim’s avant-garde creations, like the signature “Ear Pin,” are made from responsibly sourced diamonds and SCS-certified Fairmined gold.
The brand has become a celebrity staple, pictured on a constant rotation of red carpets, delivering its responsible ethos by way of a cooler-than-cool aesthetic.
The Latest

In its holiday report, PwC said the season will be more like jazz—improvisational and less predictable—than an easy-to-follow melody.

The jewelry giant will relocate its existing facility to a larger space in Anne Arundel.

With their unmatched services and low fees, reDollar.com is challenging some big names in the online consignment world.

The designer, who is the creative force behind her namesake brand, has now started a new mini line focusing on chains for fathers and sons.


The awards include tuition for a course at the Swiss lab, economy flights, and hotel accommodation.

The 21-day program was designed to help jewelry retailers identify opportunities and eliminate inefficiencies with AI.

Jewelers of America is leading the charge to protect the industry amidst rising economic threats.

A set of four Patek Philippe “Star Caliber 2000” pocket watches is part of Sotheby’s upcoming auction in Abu Dhabi.

The Brazilian jeweler’s latest book marks her namesake brand’s 25th anniversary and tells the tale of her worldwide collaborations.

The Submariner Ref. 1680 with a Tiffany & Co. dial came from the original owner, who won it as a prize on the game show in the 1970s.

The new integration allows users to manage shipments directly from the Shopify dashboard.

Six people were shot last week at an Oakland cash-for-gold shop as employees exchanged gunfire with individuals trying to rob the store.

The jeweler has expanded its high jewelry offering, which launched last year, with new pieces featuring its cube motif that debuted in 1999.

Ben Bridge Jeweler and Lux Bond & Green were a part of the pilot program.

It’s predicting a rise in retail sales this holiday season despite economic uncertainty and elevated inflation.

It included the sale of the 11,685-carat “Imboo” emerald that was recently discovered at Kagem.

The newly elected directors will officially take office in February 2026 and will be introduced at the organization’s membership meeting.

Associate Editor Lauren McLemore headed out West for a visit to Potentate Mining’s operation hosted by gemstone wholesaler Parlé Gems.

Fordite is a man-made material created from the layers of dried enamel paint that dripped onto the floors of automotive factories.

Gilbertson has worked as a researcher, jeweler, lapidary artist, appraiser, and business owner throughout his decades in the industry.

A decision likely won’t come until January 2026 at the earliest, and the tariffs remain in effect until then.

Located in the revamped jewelry hall at the retailer’s New York City flagship, this opening is Tabayer’s first shop-in-shop.

The new, free app offers accessible educational content, like games and podcasts, for U.S. retailers.

As the gold price rises, the manufacturer is offering a 100 percent payout through Sept. 30 for gold clean scrap.

Jacob & Co. partnered with the German technology company on two pairs of headphones, one set with diamonds and the other with sapphires.

Guillermo del Toro’s 2025 “Frankenstein” will feature 27 jewels and objects from the storied brand, including pieces from its archives.