Collections

Emily P. Wheeler’s New Collection Celebrates Dressing Up

CollectionsJun 03, 2021

Emily P. Wheeler’s New Collection Celebrates Dressing Up

The designer’s whimsical quarantine fantasy comes to life with a heart motif and plenty of delicious gemstones.

20210623_EmilyPWheeler-header.jpg
Among the stars of Emily P. Wheeler’s new collection is the “Princess Bride Necklace,” made of pearls, 18-karat gold, an 8.6-carat tourmaline and 0.75 carats of sapphires.
Los Angeles—Emily P. Wheeler has found her softer side.
 
In her new collection, the designer mixes her signature sharp angles and graphic Art Deco-esque shapes with curved edges, courtesy of abundant hearts. 

The range is called “Dress Up,” and it just launched at Elyse Walker. 

20210603_EmilyPWheeler-insert2.jpg
Emily P. Wheeler’s “Dress Up” collection mixes textbook femininity with sharp lines.
 
It’s a love letter to playing dress-up as a child—some of the styles like the “Aurora” are named for Disney princesses—as well as a joyful tribute to dressing up today, as the country begins to reopen more than a year after the pandemic forced it to shut down.
 
The gemstone-loving designer incorporated more color than ever before, in a traditionally girly color palette via many shades of sapphire and spinel.
 
Unabashedly whimsical and effervescent, “Dress Up” is a reminder of childhood fun and an optimistic take on the near future.
 
National Jeweler chatted with Wheeler about crafting her most confident collection yet.

 
National Jeweler: How long has the collection been in the works? 
 
Emily P. Wheeler: About one year. I started working on it pretty early on in quarantine and kept adding to it, with the intention of releasing it after a vaccine would become available. 
 
NJ: What inspired it?  
 
EPW: Each collection I design encapsulates a memory of mine. Waiting for the day when the pandemic subsided, and we could all go out again felt very much like the anticipation of playtime as a child.  
 
I used to create such over-the-top outfits, and I wanted to capture this in a more elevated adult version that could be worn while celebrating our re-emergence into the world. I combined this idea with inspiration from Pop Art, acrylic artists like my good friend Betsy Enzensberger, and Harajuku style to create a collection that has an uplifting, larger-than-life feel. 

NJ: Is there a certain piece that is your favorite? 
 
EPW: The “Dress Up Necklace” is one of my favorites. I know the amount of work and expert skill that went into that piece, so I appreciate it a great deal. I love the look of ebony in fine jewelry, and I love the contrast of the dark, hard wood with the delicate string of pink gems. I snuck a heart in at the end.

20210603_EmilyPWheeler-insert.jpg
The “Dress Up Necklace” features ebony wood, 18-karat gold, 15.26 carats of tourmaline, 7.52 carats of garnet, 3.01 carats of morganite, and 2.24 carats of spinel.
 
NJ: You’re known for sourcing some really special gemstones and creating pretty spectacular one-of-a-kind pieces. Can you talk a bit about the gemstones and colors you incorporated into this collection? 
 
EPW: Some of my favorite stones in this collection are the oversized unicorn-colored natural spinel that you see in “Cuff IV” and the “Unicorn Earrings.” It's hard to find spinel baguettes, let alone at this scale. I absolutely love the subtle color variations.

20210603_EmilyPWheeler-insert4.jpg
The “Unicorn Earrings” are rendered in 18-karat rose gold and feature 17.76 carats of spinel and white enamel.

There are some special Australian opal pieces in this collection that I had my lapidary carve into hearts. 
 
Other highlights include a pink ombre tourmaline in the “Princess Bride Necklace,” Sleeping Beauty turquoise in the “Sleeping Beauty Necklace,” and two incredibly clear and bright big tourmalines in the “Balance Ring.” 
 
20210603_EmilyPWheeler-insert3.jpg
The “Puffy Heart” earrings combine heart-shaped pink opal cabochons with 1.7 carats of faceted spinel and 0.52 carats of diamonds set in 18-karat white gold.

NJ: Can you touch on what the last year has been like for you? How has it affected you creatively?
 
EPW: I spent the entire year in my studio it seems. I love working in general and it was definitely a coping mechanism and just a great way to pass the time. 
 
Because we weren’t leaving home, I had more time to focus on work and was able to focus on honing my drawing and design skills and becoming better at what I do. I love that there is no ceiling in design—there are always areas for improvement and development. 
 
See more on the designer’s website.
 Related stories will be right here … 

The Latest

“Storied Diamond Desert Sands of Eternity” engagement ring and wedding band
SourcingOct 08, 2025
In ‘Storied Diamond,’ Jared Jewelers Is Emphasizing the Journey

The retailer’s new collection of engagement rings and fashion jewelry is set with natural diamonds that are traceable via blockchain.

Stock image of a gavel and law books
CrimeOct 07, 2025
Men Who Posed as Utility Workers Found Guilty in Jeweler’s Murder

Carlos Jose Hernandez and Joshua Zuazo face life in prison for the October 2024 murder of 72-year-old Detroit-area jeweler Hussein Murray.

Zoë Kravitz Wearing Jessica McCormack Tempest Sapphire Pendant and Tempest Diamond Necklace
CollectionsOct 07, 2025
Jessica McCormack Looks to Sea Spirits for ‘Tempest’ Collection

The brand’s first high jewelry collection, “Tempest” plays with movement while calling to mind the folklore of the sea.

ja_fall_2024_by_headshot_stories_6824.jpg
Brought to you by
JA New York Fall Is Right Around the Corner

The upcoming show provides savvy retailers with the opportunity to stock their cases with best sellers in advance of the holiday season.

Lightning Ridge Rural Fire Brigade
SourcingOct 07, 2025
Columbia Gem House Announces ‘Opals for Outback Heroes’ Fundraiser

Proceeds from its jewelry raffle will go to a volunteer-run fire and rescue group in the Lightning Ridge area of New South Wales, Australia.

Weekly QuizOct 02, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Stuller 2025 S.E.R.V.E. Star Awards winners
MajorsOct 07, 2025
Stuller Names Its S.E.R.V.E Stars for 2025

Stuller said the recipients embody the company’s core values, which include community participation and personal and professional growth.

All four models of Citizen’s new Rainell watch
WatchesOct 06, 2025
This Fall, Citizen’s Forecast Calls for Rain

Citizen’s new “Rainell” women’s watch has a raindrop-shaped case and is available with a silver-, gold-, purple-, or green-colored dial.

gia-edu main image.png
Brought to you by
A Brilliant Future Is Here

Online education from GIA experts.

Mercedes Gleitze Rolex Oyster 1926
AuctionsOct 06, 2025
The ‘Rolex That Made Rolex’ Heads to Auction at Sotheby’s

The “Mercedes Gleitze Rolex Oyster,” named for the British endurance swimmer who made it famous, will go up for sale next month.

Amit Pratihari GIA India
GradingOct 06, 2025
GIA India Names Former De Beers Exec as New Managing Director

Amit Pratihari was previously the managing director of De Beers India and Forevermark India.

DCWC 2025 Board of Directors
SourcingOct 06, 2025
SoCal 24 Karat Club Integrates Into Diamond Club West Coast

Members of the Jewelers 24 Karat Club of Southern California will gain access to expanded services, resources, and connections, DCWC said.

Selena Gomez and Benny Blanco Wedding, Jacob & Co. Watch
TrendsOct 03, 2025
Selena Gomez, Benny Blanco Tie the Knot Wearing Diamonds, White Metals

Gomez’s jewelry included Tiffany & Co. drop-style earrings while Blanco stacked diamonds from Jacob & Co. on his wrist.

HRD Antwerp CEO Paul De Wachter
GradingOct 03, 2025
Grading Lab HRD Antwerp Names New CEO

Diamond industry banking veteran Paul De Wachter will take on the role in January 2026.

Taylor Swift Kallati sapphire ring
TrendsOct 03, 2025
Piece of the Week: Kallati’s Pink Sapphire Ring

Taylor Swift flaunts an Elizabeth Taylor-esque gemstone in promo for her new album, “The Life of a Showgirl.”

Boucheron Quatre Sand Collection
CollectionsOct 02, 2025
Boucheron Debuts Cuffs Crafted With 3D-Printed Sand

Its “Quantre Sand” capsule was made using a 3D sand printing technique borrowed from the automotive and aeronautics industries.

Stock image of crime scene tape
CrimeOct 02, 2025
$1M in Jewelry Stolen in Northern California Smash and Grab

Four individuals have been charged in the “takeover-style” robbery of Heller Jewelers last month, and additional charges are expected.

Neil Lane and Boucheron bow tie brooch
MajorsOct 02, 2025
Neil Lane Jewelry Exhibition Coming to Toledo Museum of Art

“Radiance and Reverie” will showcase more than 150 jewels from Lane’s personal collection by Tiffany & Co., Cartier, and more.

Just Jules opal necklace
TrendsOct 02, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: October’s Colorful Show

The month’s birthstones, tourmaline and opal, complement the palette of autumn.

Peter Smith National Jeweler columnist
ColumnistsOct 01, 2025
Peter Smith: Why Vendor Success Starts With Self-Reflection

Smith shares the importance of looking at your company with openness and honesty to identify opportunities you may be missing.

Plah Black Swan Earrings
EditorsOct 01, 2025
Playing Favorites: The Best Jewelry From Vicenzaoro

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco visited Italy to spot jewelry trends at the September Vicenzaoro show and share her top finds.

People shopping in a mall
SurveysOct 01, 2025
Consumer Confidence Hits 5-Month Low in September

Respondents were concerned about job availability and rising prices.

Gemfields rough emeralds
SourcingOct 01, 2025
Gemfields’ H1 Revenue Falls 47%

Its latest interim financials revealed a challenging first half due in part to production troubles at its mines.

Pandora executives Alexander Lacik and Berta de Pablos-Barbier
MajorsSep 30, 2025
Pandora CEO to Retire in 2026, Hand Reins to CMO

Alexander Lacik has led Pandora since 2019. Berta de Pablos-Barbier will succeed him, the first woman to head the company.

Gavel near stacks of books
CrimeSep 30, 2025
2 Suspects Charged in $300K Sleight-of-Hand Jewelry Store Scam

Two men allegedly used counterfeit bills to purchase luxury watches and jewelry from a North Carolina jeweler.

Billie Eilish and Finneas O’Connell John Hardy Lovestruck Collection
CollectionsSep 30, 2025
Billie Eilish, Finneas Partner with John Hardy

The “Lovestruck” collection, designed with the Academy and Grammy award-winning siblings, is the brand’s first lab-grown diamond offering.

Spinelli Kilcollin Market Highland Park
IndependentsSep 30, 2025
Spinelli Kilcollin Announces Residency in Dallas

The brand, celebrating its 15th anniversary, has popped up at Market, a luxury fashion destination in Highland Park Village.

Nina Pugliese Henne Jewelers
IndependentsSep 29, 2025
Nina Pugliese, Longtime Henne Jewelers Employee, Dies at 65

She was remembered as a creative and generous woman of faith, who also had a sweet tooth.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy