Lab-Grown

Pandora’s Moving from Natural to Lab-Grown Diamonds

Lab-GrownMay 04, 2021

Pandora’s Moving from Natural to Lab-Grown Diamonds

The company announced the news alongside its first-quarter results, posting strong revenue in the U.S. market.

20210504_Pandora header.jpg
The “Pandora Brilliance” lab-grown diamond collection debuts in the United Kingdom this week before rolling out to other key markets in 2022.
Copenhagen, Denmark—Pandora is moving into the lab-grown diamond jewelry market, starting with the launch of a new collection in the United Kingdom this week.

The company announced Tuesday that it will no longer be using natural diamonds in its jewelry amid its push for “sustainably created” and affordable products.

The “Pandora Brilliance” collection of lab-grown diamond jewelry will be introduced to the U.K. market Thursday and is expected to expand into other markets in 2022.

“They are as much a symbol of innovation and progress as they are of enduring beauty, and stand as a testament to our ongoing and ambitious sustainability agenda,” CEO Alexander Lacik said Tuesday in announcing the new line. “Diamonds are not only forever, but for everyone.”

Pandora Brilliance includes rings, bangles, necklaces and earrings, each featuring a lab-grown diamond hand-set in sterling silver or 14-karat yellow or white gold. The collection’s motif is a take on the infinity symbol.

“The concept is about infinite possibility—that the future is yours to shape,” said Pandora.

Actress Rosario Dawson and model Ashley Graham will promote the line in the U.K., Professional Jeweller reported.

The pieces start at £250 ($346) and each stone ranges from 0.15 to 1 carat.

Pandora has been working toward greater sustainability and recently put a lot of money behind this goal, tying borrowing costs on a new €950 million credit facility to reducing its carbon footprint and using recycled metals. It set goals of becoming carbon neutral in its own operations and using only recycled silver and gold by 2025.

The company said the Pandora Brilliance collection has been certified as a CarbonNeutral product by The Carbon Neutral Protocol, a certification that covers the jewelry as well as packaging and transportation.

Pandora said the diamonds in the Brilliance collection are currently grown with more than 60 percent renewable energy. The collection is expected to be created with 100 percent renewable energy by its global launch.

The news about the lab-grown diamond collection came as the company announced its first-quarter results.

Pandora posted strong first-quarter revenue as online sales surged and select physical stores reopened. 

First-quarter revenue was up 8 percent year-over-year to 4.5 billion Danish kroner ($729.9 million) compared with 4.17 billion Danish kroner ($606.5 million) in the first quarter last year.

Quarterly like-for-like sales were up 36 percent year-over-year. (Like-for-like represents true comparable sales from stores that have been open for at least a year, excluding currency fluctuations.)

 Related stories will be right here … 
“We have had a good start to 2021, not least considering that many of our stores have been closed,” said Lacik in a press release about the results. 

“Performance in the U.S. and online continues to be strong, and we keep investing in building brand desirability, digital capabilities and operational excellence.”

By product category, sales of charms and bracelets both rose 7 percent in the quarter.

Ring sales rose 9 percent while earring sales were up 10 percent. Sales of necklaces and pendants were up 9 percent.

By sales channel, Pandora-owned retail stores, including the online store, brought in 2.96 billion Danish kroner ($478 million) in the first quarter, up 13 percent from the previous year.

Overall traffic into its physical stores was down by around 50 percent year-over-year, though Pandora noted the conversion rate is high.

In the United States and Australia, as physical stores began to reopen, store traffic was positive. It was the same story for its U.K. stores, which reopened in early April.

During the first quarter, around 30 percent of Pandora’s physical stores were temporarily closed due to COVID-19 restrictions, growing nearer to 35 percent by the end of March.

The company operated 2,659 stores as of the first quarter, 87 fewer when compared with the previous first quarter. 

It has 543 fewer other points of sale year-over-year, fueled by closures in the U.S. and Spain and the termination of 230 accounts with Signet-owned Jared the Galleria of Jewelry.

Wholesale sales in the first quarter were up 3 percent to 1.37 billion Danish kroner ($220.7 million). 

Online sales surged 136 percent year-over-year to 1.42 billion Danish kroner ($229.1 million) and accounted for 31 percent of total revenue.

Pandora invested in driving online traffic, including email marketing and trying out new platforms in the U.S. like TikTok and Twitch, a live streaming video service usually reserved for video games.

In the U.S., Pandora’s largest market accounting for 31 percent of total revenue, sales were strong in the first quarter following Valentine’s Day and a rise in demand for discretionary goods due to stimulus checks.

Quarterly revenue in the U.S. totaled 1.39 billion Danish kroner ($224.9 million), up 49 percent year-over-year.

Looking ahead, Pandora upped its financial guidance for the fiscal year. 

It expects organic revenue growth to top 12 percent, compared to its previous estimate of about 8 percent. 

Guidance for EBIT margin rose to about 22 percent from about 21 percent.

The updated guidance is dependent on 20-25 percent of stores being temporarily closed during the first half of 2021, compared with prior guidance of 25 percent. In the second half of the year, that number is expected to drop to 5-10 percent. 

Temporary store closures are expected to negatively impact organic growth by 6 percent for the full year.

The company does not expect to see any major changes to its overall store network.

Pandora has completed its two-year “Programme” Now turnaround plan, which aimed to stabilize its topline, increase brand relevance and access, and reduce costs.  

It is set to move onto a new strategy, dubbed “Phoenix,” that is focused on sustainable growth. Details of the plan will be shared during its Capital Markets Day in September.

The Latest

Ella Klein Interns Jamie Dunton and Gabriella Botelho
Events & AwardsDec 20, 2024
Two Participants Complete Inaugural Ella Klein Internship

Jamie Dunton and Gabriella Botelho are the first graduates of the program, created by the WJA Foundation and Julius Klein Diamonds.

Retrouvai Green Sapphire and Diamond Heirloom Bezel Ring for Charity
CollectionsDec 20, 2024
Piece of the Week: Retrouvaí’s Ring for Charity

In the spirit of giving, Retrouvaí will donate $4,000 from the sale of this ring to the Los Angeles Regional Food Bank.

DeVries Jewelers
IndependentsDec 19, 2024
Michigan’s DeVries Jewelers Unveils New Location in Time for the Holidays

Co-owner Dan DeVries shared what it’s like moving into a space triple the size of its old store and how it feels to be a “real jeweler” now.

me_myself_and_I_1872x1052 .jpg
Brought to you by
De Beers Group Launches Holiday Campaign for Natural Diamonds

‘Forever Present’ campaign revives the iconic A Diamond is Forever tagline and celebrates the diamond dream.

State Property Gardens Collection Campaign
CollectionsDec 19, 2024
State Property Transforms Spain’s Generalife Gardens into Jewelry

Along with the latest “Gardens” collection, the brand has released limited-edition designs offering more indulgent pieces.

Weekly QuizDec 19, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Two people in a rowboat
CrimeDec 19, 2024
Alleged Jewelry Thieves Attempt Rowboat Escape

The man and woman are accused of stealing jewelry from a shipping container then trying to flee by paddling a small boat out into a bay.

2488-carat diamond found in Botswana
SourcingDec 19, 2024
The Second-Largest Diamond Ever Found Now Has a Name

The 2,488-carat diamond recovered from a mine in Botswana has been dubbed “Motswedi” while its 1,094-carat sibling is “Seriti.”

ja nj btyb.jpg
Brought to you by
Advocacy and Excellence: How Jewelers of America Is Committed to Elevating Our Industry

For over a century, Jewelers of America has been the voice of the industry and valuable resource to jewelers across the country.

Rough rubies
SourcingDec 19, 2024
Gemfields Reports Record Ruby Auction Results Despite Challenges at Source

The average price per carat hit a record high for the miner, which said it remains unaffected by the conflict in Mozambique.

alexandrite ring
AuctionsDec 18, 2024
Alexandrite Ring Sells for Record-Setting $1.9M at Sotheby’s

The nearly 17-carat stone made history for the color-change gem that, according to the auction house, is experiencing a “notable surge” in the market.

Tiffany & Co. pocket watch gifted to captain of the Carpathia
WatchesDec 18, 2024
Historic Titanic Pocket Watch Winds Its Way Back to Tiffany & Co.

More than a century after survivors gifted a Tiffany timepiece to the captain of the ship that rescued them, the jeweler has reclaimed it.

Picchiotti Spotlight Campaign Video Still
TechnologyDec 18, 2024
Picchiotti Utilizes AI in ‘Spotlight’ Video Campaign

The videos highlight how pieces from the “Xpandable” and “Reversible Xpandable” collections put the wearer in the spotlight.

Steve Feldman
IndependentsDec 18, 2024
Industry Veteran Steve Feldman Set to Retire

Feldman reflected on 45 years in the jewelry industry and clarified that it’s not a total retirement.

Chanel Quilted Stars Necklace
Events & AwardsDec 17, 2024
Chanel to Receive Gem Award for High Jewelry Excellence

The luxury brand is being honored for excellence in high jewelry design in its “Haute Joaillerie Sport” collection.

Frank Circelli
SourcingDec 17, 2024
Frank Circelli, Founder of Gem Shopping Network, Dies at 75

Circelli was a pioneer in the world of TV shopping who is remembered for his passion for gemstones and his big personality.

Blue diamond ring
AuctionsDec 17, 2024
Blue Diamond Fetches $8.8M at Christie’s

The nearly 6-carat stone headlined the recent jewelry auction, which also featured Mica Ertegun’s jewelry.

Stock image of a gavel, handcuffs, and books
CrimeDec 17, 2024
‘Black Bin Crew’ Robbers Get 14-16 Years in Prison

The three men, who got their nickname because they’d toss the jewelry they stole into black plastic bins, were arrested back in August.

Cover of the new book “The History of Diamond Engagement Rings: A True Romance”
TrendsDec 16, 2024
Marion Fasel’s New Book Delves Into the History of Engagement Rings

“The History of Diamond Engagement Rings: A True Romance” is a 128-page small-format book containing more than 165 images.

Rolex store on Rodeo Drive
WatchesDec 16, 2024
Take a Look Inside the New Rolex Boutique on Rodeo Drive

Gearys opened a 6,200-square-foot Rolex store with a design that pays homage to the brand’s connection to the ocean.

GCAL 8X pear and marquise-cut diamonds
GradingDec 16, 2024
GCAL By Sarine Expands 8X to 2 More Fancy Shapes

The diamond cut grade is now available for marquise- and pear-shaped diamonds.

Claudia Cividino, Sissy’s Log Cabin, Shri Govind Dholakia, Tanishq
SourcingDec 16, 2024
Diamonds Do Good Announces 2025 Award Recipients

DDG said the honorees’ business practices embody a commitment to positive social impact, industry innovation, and community empowerment.

Selena Gomez, Benny Blanco, Engagement Ring
TrendsDec 13, 2024
Selena Gomez Said ‘Forever Begins Now’ to Marquise Diamond Engagement Ring

Estimates on the size and value of the solitaire diamond, which is mounted on a diamond pavé-set yellow gold band, vary.

Martin Katz tanzanite drop earrings
TrendsDec 13, 2024
Piece of the Week: Martin Katz’s Tanzanite Drops

These half-moon tanzanite earrings totaling 25 carats are part of a special trunk show taking place this weekend in Dallas.

My Next Question webinar graphic
Recorded WebinarsDec 13, 2024
Watch: The Highs and Lows of 2024

The National Jeweler editors recap the top news, the best jewels, and their favorite stories of the year.

Tom Brady’s Rolex Daytona Paul Newman “John Player Special”
AuctionsDec 12, 2024
Tom Brady’s Watches Top $4M at Sotheby’s Auction

The highest-grossing lot of the sale was the retired QB’s Rolex Paul Newman Daytona “John Player Special.”

Grizzly emerald mining
SourcingDec 12, 2024
Grizzly Emerald Auction Garners $22.4M

Recent expansion initiatives at the Zambian emerald mine have shown strong production numbers, said Grizzly founder Abdoulaye Ndiaye.

Carrie Forman
MajorsDec 12, 2024
Mark Henry Appoints New Director of Sales

Carrie Forman joins the brand to guide it into the next phase of growth with major and independent retailers in the U.S. and abroad.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy