Trends

The History Behind ... Victorian mourning jewelry

TrendsNov 03, 2014

The History Behind ... Victorian mourning jewelry

National Jeweler delves into the when, where and why of mourning jewelry worn during the Victorian era, which spanned 1837 to 1901.  

110514_History-Behind-article.jpg
These gold mourning earrings have locks of blonde hair surrounded by tear-shaped pieces of onyx. They are from 1860-1870; a matching pin survives.
New York--As the Georgian era faded into Victorian times, mourning jewelry became less macabre.  

Depictions of grave-digging tools and skulls gave way to softer symbolism--clouds and angels--as mourning jewelry became entirely about remembering individuals who were lost, and was incorporated into the strict mourning dress code imposed upon women in Victorian times. 

Antique jewelry dealer Lenore Dailey shares her insights on the mourning jewelry of the period in this month’s The History Behind, a follow-up to September’s story on Georgian era mourning jewelry.

When was the Victorian era and what characteristics mark mourning jewelry from this period? Historically, it is the period from 1837 to 1901, spanning the 64-year reign of Queen Victoria, who remains the longest-reigning monarch in history (though she soon could lose that title to Elizabeth II.) 

Dailey, notes, however that the dates for jewelry design are not so exacting, as styles sometimes overlap dates. 

What makes Victorian era mourning jewelry different from that of the Georgian era? Early Georgian era mourning jewelry was more macabre, Dailey says.  It focused more on the concept of memento mori--remember that you will die--that later morphed into pieces created in memory of individuals. 

“As we come into the Victorian era, we are looking at it being primarily focused on the loss of a loved one. It’s not as macabre … It’s more focused on an individual,” she says, with phrases like “in memory of” and “lost but not forgotten” used. 

“It’s marking the passages of life. It’s keeping their loved ones close to them and incorporating it into social customs of the time, which were very strict.” 

Dailey says while mourning customs varied according to status, generally they were very detailed--women had to wear all black for a designated period of time and were restricted in what they could do socially after the loss of a loved one. Those who didn’t comply were shunned. 

“It was an outward display of what your inner feelings were supposed to be at the time,” she says. “Today you can lose the most important person in your life and walk out the door and no one knows anything.”

What about mourning customs for men? “They got off so easy,” Dailey laughs. 

Basically, men wore a black suit, maybe an arm band or a hat band, and black gloves. The social restrictions were few, as men had to go out and work, and find a new bride to help with the children if that was the case.


What are some of the materials used in Victorian era mourning jewelry?  First of all: black, which symbolized the lack of light, the lack of life, she says. “When you are thinking mourning jewelry you are thinking black.”

One of the favorite materials for Victorian mourning jewelry was jet, a fossilized coal that’s black and shiny. Vulcanite and gutta percha, two different forms of rubber from trees in Southeast Asia that are black, also were used interchangeably. 

Dailey says onyx, black enamel, dark tortoise shell, French jet (which is molded glass), pearls and bog oak, which is fossilized wood or peat from bogs, also were used. White enamel also came into use, primarily in pieces used to remember unmarried woman as well as children. 

She adds that hair was very popular in Victorian era mourning jewelry as the middle class emerged and desired more affordable options.

What were some of the symbols used in this jewelry? While the more macabre symbols from the Georgian era, such as skulls, coffins and grave-digging tools, faded out of use in the Victorian period, many more symbols carried over, Dailey said. There are clouds, weeping willows, tombs, urns, angels and women lamenting at tombs. 

How much is Victorian-era mourning jewelry worth today? Pieces range in price from a couple hundred dollars up to thousands, depending on the quality, the rarity and the materials used.

How can a retailer add this category to their antique jewelry offerings? “It’s more widely available, of course, as the Georgian and pre-Georgian pieces,” Dailey says, both because the era is more recent and more was made. 

She says retailers can find Victorian era mourning jewelry at most antique shows. Dealers who sell the pieces include Dailey as well as Darlene Boyard.

Dailey also recommends those with an interest in this category read In Death Lamented: The Tradition of Anglo-American Mourning Jewelry by Sarah Nehama, an “excellent” reference guide for mourning jewelry.

Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

A Vanitas by Hannah Martin and Guy Berryman Sothebys
CollectionsJul 22, 2025
Jewelry With a Rock ‘n’ Roll Aesthetic Heads to Sotheby’s London

Next week, the auction house will kick off a selling exhibition of jewelry by British artist Hannah Martin and Coldplay’s Guy Berryman.

Cover of the book “Flawless: Inside the Largest Diamond Heist in History”
SourcingJul 22, 2025
Antwerp Diamond Heist Documentary Coming to Netflix

“Stolen: Heist of the Century” is based on “Flawless,” the book about the middle-of-the-night theft, and will debut on Netflix in August.

Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsJul 22, 2025
The Gifting Gap: How to Market Jewelry Beyond the Holidays

Emmanuel Raheb shares the top five gifting moments outside of major holidays that jewelers should build marketing campaigns around.

rio-article photo-diamond.jpg
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine Jewelry

As a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.

NY Now
Events & AwardsJul 22, 2025
NY Now’s Summer Market Returns in August

The wholesale trade show’s Luxury Lifestyle section will showcase established and emerging jewelry designers.

Weekly QuizJul 17, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Jeweler setting a diamond into a ring
MajorsJul 21, 2025
Rio Grande Expands Personalization Offerings

As demand for custom jewelry grows, the company is expanding its services to support retailers.

National Associate of Jewelry Appraisers Logo
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2025
NAJA’s 2025 ‘Ace It’ Conference To Go Virtual

The mid-year conference for jewelry and watch appraisers is slated for Aug. 9 to 10 on Zoom.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

24th Gem Awards Show Logo
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2025
Gem Awards Now Accepting Nominations for 2026

Nominations in the categories of Jewelry Design, Media Excellence, and Retail Innovation will be accepted through July 30.

Lewis Heyman
MajorsJul 18, 2025
Lewis Heyman on Sourcing Gemstones, Post-Retirement Plans

He retired last month after 28 years traveling the world to source the very best gemstones for his family’s jewelry business, Oscar Heyman.

The Plumb Club board members
MajorsJul 18, 2025
Plumb Club Elects New Board Members

The organization elected its youngest vice president as it looks to draw in fresh talent.

Jewelry industry veterans Brad Campbell and John Liebler
TechnologyJul 18, 2025
Brad Campbell, John Liebler Join Clientbook’s Executive Team

Campbell joins the company as vice president of business development while Liebler is the new vice president of operations.

Silver, Gold, and Bronze Medals for Italy Olympic Winter Games
CollectionsJul 17, 2025
2026 Winter Olympic Medal Design Symbolizes Unity

The medals feature a split-texture design highlighting the Games’ first time being hosted by two cities and the athletes’ journeys.

vimeo screenshot.png
Supplier BulletinJul 17, 2025
The INSTORE Jewelry Show 2025: Your Holiday Preparations, All Wrapped Up!

Sponsored by The INSTORE Jewelry Show 2025

Guinness
SurveysJul 17, 2025
The Most Recommended Brands in the World, According to YouGov

Globally, travel and transportation brands reigned, while in the U.S., alcoholic beverage companies and a lingerie brand took the top spots.

Gina Ferranti
IndependentsJul 17, 2025
Gina Ferranti of GiGi Ferranti Jewelry Dies at 59

The Brooklyn-based jewelry designer is remembered as a true artist and a rare talent.

Rio Tinto Chief Executive Simon Trott
SourcingJul 17, 2025
Rio Tinto Names New CEO, Production Rises at Diavik

Production at the mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories topped 1 million carats in Q2, the third consecutive quarter of growth.

Jewelers of America Learning Workship Logo
Events & AwardsJul 17, 2025
JA to Hold Learning Workshops This Fall

A new slate of Learning Workshops will take place in Oklahoma, Mississippi, and Georgia.

Gold bracelets and bangles
SurveysJul 16, 2025
Signet Jewelers Falls Lower on NRF’s ‘Top 100’ Retailers List

The middle class is changing its approach to buying jewelry and affordable luxury goods, the NRF said.

Buccellati Opera high jewelry bracelet
FinancialsJul 16, 2025
Richemont’s Jewelry Sales Up 7% in Q1

It marks the third consecutive quarter of growth for Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati, and Vhernier.

Rolex Datejust ref. 16233
WatchesJul 16, 2025
The Top-Selling Rolex Models of the Last 15 Years, According to Bob’s Watches

The reseller’s market trends report, based on its sales data, also shows exactly how much Rolex prices have jumped since 2010.

Jean Dinh Van Orgue Ring
AuctionsJul 16, 2025
Christie’s To Honor Dinh Van With Exhibition

The auction house will be hosting a retrospective paying tribute to jeweler Jean Dinh Van and his company’s 60th anniversary.

Jake Duneier and Danielle Duneier
IndependentsJul 16, 2025
Clyde Duneier Ushers In Fourth Generation

Jake Duneier and Danielle Duneier-Goldberg have stepped into the roles of CEO and president, respectively.

Boucheron Impermanence Boucheron Dragonfly Earrings and Wisteria Hair Piece
CollectionsJul 15, 2025
Boucheron’s New High Jewelry Calls Attention to Nature’s Impermanence

The “Impermanence” collection contemplates nature through the Japanese art of Ikebana (flower arranging) and philosophy of wabi-sabi.

James Avery Cedar Park
MajorsJul 15, 2025
James Avery Expands to 2 More States

The Texas-based jewelry retailer has set up shop in Tennessee and Arizona.

Eric Ford, Couture’s new brand director and former fine jewelry buyer at Neiman Marcus
Events & AwardsJul 15, 2025
Neiman Marcus Vet Joins Couture as Brand Director

Eric Ford will step into the role, bringing with him decades of experience.

Bench jeweler holding a ring and a tool
MajorsJul 15, 2025
Ben Bridge Jeweler Acquires Olympic Manufacturing

In addition to improved capabilities, the acquisition will allow the jeweler to offer support to other independent jewelers.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy