EditorsNov 07, 2025
Piece of the Week: An MVP’s Sapphire Tennis Necklace At the 2025 World Series, the Los Angeles Dodgers’ Yoshinobu Yamamoto sported a custom necklace made by California retailer Happy Jewelers.
TrendsNov 03, 2014
The History Behind ... Victorian mourning jewelry
National Jeweler delves into the when, where and why of mourning jewelry worn during the Victorian era, which spanned 1837 to 1901.
These gold mourning earrings have locks of blonde hair surrounded by tear-shaped pieces of onyx. They are from 1860-1870; a matching pin survives.
New York--As the Georgian era faded into Victorian times, mourning jewelry became less macabre.
Depictions of grave-digging tools and skulls gave way to softer symbolism--clouds and angels--as mourning jewelry became entirely about remembering individuals who were lost, and was incorporated into the strict mourning dress code imposed upon women in Victorian times.
Depictions of grave-digging tools and skulls gave way to softer symbolism--clouds and angels--as mourning jewelry became entirely about remembering individuals who were lost, and was incorporated into the strict mourning dress code imposed upon women in Victorian times.
Antique jewelry dealer Lenore Dailey shares her insights on the mourning jewelry of the period in this month’s The History Behind, a follow-up to September’s story on Georgian era mourning jewelry.
When was the Victorian era and what characteristics mark mourning jewelry from this period? Historically, it is the period from 1837 to 1901, spanning the 64-year reign of Queen Victoria, who remains the longest-reigning monarch in history (though she soon could lose that title to Elizabeth II.)
Dailey, notes, however that the dates for jewelry design are not so exacting, as styles sometimes overlap dates.
What makes Victorian era mourning jewelry different from that of the Georgian era? Early Georgian era mourning jewelry was more macabre, Dailey says. It focused more on the concept of memento mori--remember that you will die--that later morphed into pieces created in memory of individuals.
“As we come into the Victorian era, we are looking at it being primarily focused on the loss of a loved one. It’s not as macabre … It’s more focused on an individual,” she says, with phrases like “in memory of” and “lost but not forgotten” used.
“It’s marking the passages of life. It’s keeping their loved ones close to them and incorporating it into social customs of the time, which were very strict.”
“It’s marking the passages of life. It’s keeping their loved ones close to them and incorporating it into social customs of the time, which were very strict.”
Dailey says while mourning customs varied according to status, generally they were very detailed--women had to wear all black for a designated period of time and were restricted in what they could do socially after the loss of a loved one. Those who didn’t comply were shunned.
“It was an outward display of what your inner feelings were supposed to be at the time,” she says. “Today you can lose the most important person in your life and walk out the door and no one knows anything.”
What about mourning customs for men? “They got off so easy,” Dailey laughs.
Basically, men wore a black suit, maybe an arm band or a hat band, and black gloves. The social restrictions were few, as men had to go out and work, and find a new bride to help with the children if that was the case.
What are some of the materials used in Victorian era mourning jewelry? First of all: black, which symbolized the lack of light, the lack of life, she says. “When you are thinking mourning jewelry you are thinking black.”
One of the favorite materials for Victorian mourning jewelry was jet, a fossilized coal that’s black and shiny. Vulcanite and gutta percha, two different forms of rubber from trees in Southeast Asia that are black, also were used interchangeably.
Dailey says onyx, black enamel, dark tortoise shell, French jet (which is molded glass), pearls and bog oak, which is fossilized wood or peat from bogs, also were used. White enamel also came into use, primarily in pieces used to remember unmarried woman as well as children.
She adds that hair was very popular in Victorian era mourning jewelry as the middle class emerged and desired more affordable options.
What were some of the symbols used in this jewelry? While the more macabre symbols from the Georgian era, such as skulls, coffins and grave-digging tools, faded out of use in the Victorian period, many more symbols carried over, Dailey said. There are clouds, weeping willows, tombs, urns, angels and women lamenting at tombs.
How much is Victorian-era mourning jewelry worth today? Pieces range in price from a couple hundred dollars up to thousands, depending on the quality, the rarity and the materials used.
How can a retailer add this category to their antique jewelry offerings? “It’s more widely available, of course, as the Georgian and pre-Georgian pieces,” Dailey says, both because the era is more recent and more was made.
She says retailers can find Victorian era mourning jewelry at most antique shows. Dealers who sell the pieces include Dailey as well as Darlene Boyard.
Dailey also recommends those with an interest in this category read In Death Lamented: The Tradition of Anglo-American Mourning Jewelry by Sarah Nehama, an “excellent” reference guide for mourning jewelry.
More on Trends
The Latest
IndependentsNov 07, 2025
Foundrae’s New Palm Beach Location Is a ‘Golden Solarium’The brand’s seventh location combines Foundrae’s symbolic vocabulary with motifs from Florida’s natural surroundings.
FinancialsNov 07, 2025
Watches of Switzerland’s H1 Sales Up 8%The retailer also shared an update on the impact of tariffs on watch customers.
Brought to you by
Jewelers of America Aligns New Mission to Create Meaningful Impact for MembersFrom educational programs, advocacy, and recent MJSA affiliation, Jewelers of America drives progress that elevates businesses of all sizes.
SourcingNov 06, 2025
Pink Tourmaline Bracelet, Emerald Suite Take Top Spectrum Honors Pink and purple stones were popular in the AGTA’s design competition this year, as were cameos and ocean themes.
Weekly QuizNov 06, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
IndependentsNov 06, 2025
Greenwich St. Jewelers Hosts Raffle Supporting Food RescueAll proceeds from the G. St x Jewel Boxing raffle will go to City Harvest, which works to end hunger in New York City.
IndependentsNov 06, 2025
Cornell’s Jewelers Names New PresidentCourtney Cornell is part of the third generation to lead the Rochester, New York-based jeweler.
SourcingNov 06, 2025
De Beers’ Production, Sales Increase in Q3 De Beers also announced more changes in its upper ranks ahead of parent company Anglo American’s pending sale of the company.
WatchesNov 05, 2025
Shinola President Steps Down Just as He Starts Former Signet CEO Mark Light will remain president of Shinola until a replacement for Ulrich Wohn is found.
AuctionsNov 05, 2025
Taylor Swift’s Engagement Ring Designer Makes Her Auction DebutKindred Lubeck of Artifex has three rings she designed with Anup Jogani in Sotheby’s upcoming Gem Drop sale.
FinancialsNov 05, 2025
Pandora Posts Modest Q3 Sales Growth Amid ‘Weak’ Consumer Sentiment The company focused on marketing in the third quarter and introduced two new charm collections, “Pandora Talisman” and “Pandora Minis.”
FinancialsNov 05, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s Q3 Sales Climb 10%The jewelry retailer raised its full-year guidance, with CFO Jeff Kuo describing the company as “very well positioned” for the holidays.
Policies & IssuesNov 04, 2025
Supreme Court to Hear Tariffs Case WednesdayAhead of the hearing, two industry organizations co-signed an amicus brief urging the court to declare Trump’s tariffs unlawful.
MajorsNov 04, 2025
Danny Clark to Become Stuller CEO, Succeeding Matt StullerStuller COO Belit Myers will take on the additional role of president, with all changes effective at the start of 2026.
ColumnistsNov 04, 2025
Peter Smith: What Do Birds Have to Do With the Price of Gold? Smith cautions retailers against expending too much energy on things they can’t control, like the rising price of gold.
IndependentsNov 04, 2025
Weston Jewelers Heads to Fort LauderdaleThe family-owned jeweler will open its fourth store in Florida in late 2027.
CrimeNov 03, 2025
Men Dressed as Construction Workers Burglarize Jeweler’s Home The NYPD is looking for three men who stole a safe and jewelry valued at $3.2 million from the home of a jeweler in Jamaica Hills, Queens.
MajorsNov 03, 2025
Matthew Rosenheim Takes Over as JA Board ChairThe trade organization also announced its executive committee and five new directors.
CollectionsNov 03, 2025
Muse’s ‘Have a Heart’ Collab Returns, Now With DDGThe “Have a Heart x Diamonds Do Good” collection is championed by model and humanitarian Flaviana Matata and will benefit her foundation.
AuctionsNov 03, 2025
Kashmir Sapphire Ring Tops Christie's Online AuctionThe ring, set with a nearly 17-carat Kashmir cabochon sapphire, sold for $1 million.
CrimeOct 31, 2025
5 More Arrested in Louvre Heist, Jewelry Still Missing The suspects were rounded up in Paris and its suburbs on Wednesday night, but none of the stolen jewels were recovered with them.
Recorded WebinarsOct 31, 2025
Watch: How to Master Google Reviews for Your BusinessExperts share top tips on how to encourage positive reviews and handle negative feedback.
Supplier BulletinOct 30, 2025
Protect Your Customers and Your BusinessSponsored by the Gemological Institute of America
CrimeOct 30, 2025
29-Year-Old Man Charged in Multiple Seattle-Area Smash and Grabs The suspect faces charges in the August robbery of Menashe & Sons Jewelers and is accused of committing smash and grabs at two pawn shops.
Lab-GrownOct 30, 2025
Alison Lou’s New Collection Uses Lab-Grown Diamonds and ResinThe “Lumière Fine” collection was born from designer Alison Chemla’s interest in the transformative power of light.
TrendsOct 30, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: A Haunted HalloweenShow off your spooky side with these 12 festive jewels.
