Other

In a time when lending is tight, alternatives abound

OtherOct 28, 2014

In a time when lending is tight, alternatives abound

Collateral lending and crowdfunding are two of the options available in an era when traditional banks are exiting the industry.

New York--When it comes to the jewelry industry and banking, 2013 did not end on a high note.

In December 2013, KBC announced plans to sell Antwerp Diamond Bank to Shanghai-based Yinren Group, while Bank Leumi followed with an announcement in January that it would close out its diamond jewelry financing portfolio by the end of 2014.

As the year wore on, the news only grew worse. KBC said in September that Yinren failed to submit to the National Bank of Belgium the “comprehensive file” necessary to complete the sale and it would be forced to shut down ADB in the coming months, unless a savior surfaces during the wind-down process.

The exit of banks from the industry, and the tightness of credit in general, is impacting players of all sizes along the supply pipeline, and the crunch hasn’t gone unnoticed.

Harriet Greenberg, a partner in charge of the apparel, fashion and jewelry group at New York accounting and consulting agency Friedman LLP, says the reasons so many banks are exiting the jewelry industry are the lack of transparency and the perceived financial risk. Many companies in the industry haven’t had audits, don’t have sophisticated financial records and/or haven’t gotten a gemologist to evaluate their inventory, all of which larger banks require when they loan.

“Banks don’t have a feeling of lending to them because, traditionally, there hasn’t been a whole lot of financial transparency,” Greenberg says. “This is something that goes right across the distribution chain.”

Also adding to banks’ unease are eroding margins and continuing consolidation.

Think: the financial collapses of once-big players such as Friedman’s (more than 400 stores; filed Chapter 11 in 2008), Whitehall Jewelers (more than 300 stores; filed Chapter 11 in 2008), Finlay Fine Jewelry (more than 700 locations; filed Chapter 11 in 2009) and Ultra Stores (nearly 200 units; eventually bought by and absorbed into Signet Jewelers Ltd.)

The culmination of industry consolidation occurred earlier this year when Signet bought rival Zale Corp., merging the country’s two largest mall jewelers to create a mega-chain of some 3,600 stores. “These are all things that make traditional lenders uncomfortable with the industry,” Greenberg says.

Quick(er) cash
The jewelry industry’s manufacturers, wholesalers and retailers are not the only businesses finding it difficult to secure traditional bank loans in the post-recession era. Business owners in all types of industries, particularly those heading smaller

firms, find themselves searching for alternative sources of financing.

The “trailblazer,” so to speak, among these alternative forms of financing was the merchant cash advance, says John Lynch, marketing director for Express Business Loans in Amityville, N.Y. Express offers fixed-term, fixed-payment loans to small businesses with interest rates starting around 11 percent as well as merchant cash advances.

A merchant cash advance works like this: the lender analyzes the borrower’s credit card sales for a specific period of time and advances them a certain amount of money based on their credit card sales volume. The lender then works with the credit card processor, taking a cut every time the borrower batches out their credit card sales until the funding is repaid.

Merchant cash advances do not have an interest rate. They have a factor rate, the percentage of the advance amount the provider charges. Lynch says the cost of capital in a merchant cash advance can range from 1.15 to 1.35, depending on the funding amount and projected payback.

“For jewelers, we would lean more toward our loan program,” he notes. “It may be a little bit more difficult to get approved for but the pricing’s cheaper.”

There’s also collateral lending, which has a new player on the scene in New York: London-based Borro. Operating in the U.K. since 2008, Borro opened its New York office about 2 1/2 years ago.

Tom McDermott, general manager of the company’s U.S. business, said Borro works by taking physical possession of a retailer’s inventory and then lending against its value, typically around 70 percent.

For example, if a retailer turned $1 million in inventory over to Borro, the company would float them a loan for $700,000. If the loan isn’t repaid, then Borro, which staffs on-site gemologists who evaluate the inventory, takes permanent possession of the inventory. The interest rate on these loans is 2 to 4 percent per month.

The biggest hurdle a business owner might have to overcome in taking out this type of loan is physically relinquishing possession of their inventory; McDermott notes that jewelers might feel that they’d rather have their bracelets, earrings and necklaces on hand at the store in case a customer wants to buy them. Still, he says, Borro will return the inventory if the retailer has a buyer and has paid off the loan.

The company also has a program where they will find a sales channel for merchandise: the retailer typically receives 70 percent of the inventory’s value up front and receives the money from the sale that remains after the principal, interest and costs associated with the loan are paid. McDermott acknowledges that Borro’s services are more of a short-term solution with a higher interest rate.

Traditional bank loans are a better option for the long run, but only for those who are able to secure them. “All the big banks are backing out of this industry, especially the diamond industry,” he says. “That’s why we are getting calls from people looking for alternative forms of financing.”

Lynch says the merchant cash advance was the first type of alternative financing product to experience growth. It grew to become a multi-billion dollar industry over the last decade but has plateaued in popularity as other alternatives have emerged, alternatives that serve as middle ground between merchant cash advances and collateral loans and the traditional bank loan.

A now-crowded field
Among these is the growing practice of crowdfunding, raising money for a project or business via a large group of people generally reached through the Internet.

Crowdfunding started to gain steam around 2008 or 2009, in lockstep with social media, which makes it possible to easily share with huge networks of people. Today, the most well-known crowdfunding portal is Kickstarter.

Pennsylvania-based jewelry designer Anthony Lent used Kickstarter earlier this year to develop and promote a new silver line and was able to exceed his goal of $50,000 thanks to the 345 people who “backed” the project.

In return, he rewarded his backers a silver pendant (for a $125 donation or more), Anthony Lent-branded chocolates and shout-outs on social media site Twitter. The jewelry company said its success is an indicator of the viability of crowdfunding portals for jewelry designers looking to raise capital.

However, Michael Melfi, an attorney and author of The Simple Secrets of Crowdfunding, points out that a reward-based model like Lent used isn’t the only option with crowdfunding. Melfi heads a boutique law firm based in Birmingham, Mich. and is the general counsel for another crowdfunding portal, Funderbuilt.

He says Funderbuilt provides donation- (where people just give money to a cause-based campaign), reward- and equity-based projects. For the equity-based crowdfunding ventures, the person gives a piece of equity in their company in exchange for an up-front investment.

Melfi says those seeking crowdfunding support need to have all of the necessary financial documentation, just as a company would if they were going into a bank seeking a traditional loan, and also need to seek legal advice; there are federal and state laws that govern this type of funding.

They also need to take it one step further. Because they are going to be asking a wide range of people--not just friends, family or the loan officer at a bank--for funds, they need to tell the story of why they need the money in a creative way that can be shared online. It is no different than the way jewelers train their sales associates to sell the romance associated with diamonds and not just run down the four Cs.

A successful crowdfunding campaign goes beyond profit and loss sheets, Melfi says. It “has a good story, a good video. It’s important to have begun to create ... an online community with which you can share your story and the project,” he says. “Create an audience you can communicate with.”

In addition to Funderbuilt, other crowdfunding portals with an equity-based option include AngelList and CircleUp, all of which are solid options, Melfi says.

He says individuals and businesses have raised hundreds of thousands, even millions, of dollars through crowdfunding, which wasn’t possible before the rise of social media. He sees it as part of a larger paradigm shift to the cloud, meaning the Internet, and the crowd, a reference to the many people one can connect with through channels such as Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. “That’s the benefit of social media,” Melfi says. “That’s the benefit of being online.”

This shift to the “cloud and the crowd” is, in some cases, replacing old ways of doing business that no longer work, or perhaps no longer even exist, in the post-recession era. 


APPLICATION CHECKLIST

Want to get a traditional bank loan or apply for alternative financing? Here are some points to keep in mind during the process.

-- Have the proper paperwork in order. Companies should use a recognized accounting firm, consider an audit at the end of the fiscal year, provide a gemological evaluation of their inventory, and have appropriate capital for the type of business they are doing. “If companies are well capitalized and financially transparent they will have access to capital,” whether they are applying for a traditional bank loan or alternative financing, Greenberg says.

-- Have clear objectives for the money so the lender feels comfortable. “We like to make sure they have a plan,” Lynch says of potential loan clients. “We don’t want to fund someone who’s desperate because that puts our investors’ money at risk. We also do not want to put your business in a position where it cannot operate.”

-- Don’t wait until the financial situation is dire to apply for a loan. “If you are already in a situation where cash flow is not positive, even with alternative financing you are going to pay for that,” Lynch says. “You always want to come from a position of strength when you are dealing with this type of financing.”

-- Analyze it. When it comes to collateral loans and merchant cash advances, Greenberg says business owners need to do an analysis of the cost of the capital vs. the profitability of their products. “If you are not going to make money at the end of the day, don’t hit your head against the wall. Even though financing is available, if it’s not economically feasible and if it doesn’t bring the company forward then it’s not an alternative that I believe people should look to.”

-- Don’t forget the golden rule. And that is: he who has the gold makes the rules. “The banks that have the money get to tell you what to do,” Greenberg says.

This story originally appeared in the inaugural issue of National Jeweler’s online-only magazine. View the entire publication here.

 


Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Selena Gomez and Benny Blanco Wedding, Jacob & Co. Watch
TrendsOct 03, 2025
Selena Gomez, Benny Blanco Tie the Knot Wearing Diamonds, White Metals

Gomez’s jewelry included Tiffany & Co. drop-style earrings while Blanco stacked diamonds from Jacob & Co. on his wrist.

HRD Antwerp CEO Paul De Wachter
GradingOct 03, 2025
Grading Lab HRD Antwerp Names New CEO

Diamond industry banking veteran Paul De Wachter will take on the role in January 2026.

Taylor Swift Kallati sapphire ring
TrendsOct 03, 2025
Piece of the Week: Kallati’s Pink Sapphire Ring

Taylor Swift flaunts an Elizabeth Taylor-esque gemstone in promo for her new album, “The Life of a Showgirl.”

gia-edu main image.png
Brought to you by
A Brilliant Future Is Here

Online education from GIA experts.

Boucheron Quatre Sand Collection
CollectionsOct 02, 2025
Boucheron Debuts Cuffs Crafted With 3D-Printed Sand

Its “Quantre Sand” capsule was made using a 3D sand printing technique borrowed from the automotive and aeronautics industries.

Weekly QuizOct 02, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Stock image of crime scene tape
CrimeOct 02, 2025
$1M in Jewelry Stolen in Northern California Smash and Grab

Four individuals have been charged in the “takeover-style” robbery of Heller Jewelers last month, and additional charges are expected.

Neil Lane and Boucheron bow tie brooch
MajorsOct 02, 2025
Neil Lane Jewelry Exhibition Coming to Toledo Museum of Art

“Radiance and Reverie” will showcase more than 150 jewels from Lane’s personal collection by Tiffany & Co., Cartier, and more.

reDollar-fine-jewelry-department.jpg
Brought to you by
reDollar.com Is Rolling Out the Next Level Jewelry, Diamond & Watch Consignment Program

With their unmatched services and low fees, reDollar.com is challenging some big names in the online consignment world.

Just Jules opal necklace
TrendsOct 02, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: October’s Colorful Show

The month’s birthstones, tourmaline and opal, complement the palette of autumn.

Peter Smith National Jeweler columnist
ColumnistsOct 01, 2025
Peter Smith: Why Vendor Success Starts With Self-Reflection

Smith shares the importance of looking at your company with openness and honesty to identify opportunities you may be missing.

Plah Black Swan Earrings
EditorsOct 01, 2025
Playing Favorites: The Best Jewelry From Vicenzaoro

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco visited Italy to spot jewelry trends at the September Vicenzaoro show and share her top finds.

People shopping in a mall
SurveysOct 01, 2025
Consumer Confidence Hits 5-Month Low in September

Respondents were concerned about job availability and rising prices.

Gemfields rough emeralds
SourcingOct 01, 2025
Gemfields’ H1 Revenue Falls 47%

Its latest interim financials revealed a challenging first half due in part to production troubles at its mines.

Pandora executives Alexander Lacik and Berta de Pablos-Barbier
MajorsSep 30, 2025
Pandora CEO to Retire in 2026, Hand Reins to CMO

Alexander Lacik has led Pandora since 2019. Berta de Pablos-Barbier will succeed him, the first woman to head the company.

Gavel near stacks of books
CrimeSep 30, 2025
2 Suspects Charged in $300K Sleight-of-Hand Jewelry Store Scam

Two men allegedly used counterfeit bills to purchase luxury watches and jewelry from a North Carolina jeweler.

Billie Eilish and Finneas O’Connell John Hardy Lovestruck Collection
CollectionsSep 30, 2025
Billie Eilish, Finneas Partner with John Hardy

The “Lovestruck” collection, designed with the Academy and Grammy award-winning siblings, is the brand’s first lab-grown diamond offering.

Spinelli Kilcollin Market Highland Park
IndependentsSep 30, 2025
Spinelli Kilcollin Announces Residency in Dallas

The brand, celebrating its 15th anniversary, has popped up at Market, a luxury fashion destination in Highland Park Village.

Nina Pugliese Henne Jewelers
IndependentsSep 29, 2025
Nina Pugliese, Longtime Henne Jewelers Employee, Dies at 65

She was remembered as a creative and generous woman of faith, who also had a sweet tooth.

Kwait White and Yellow Gold Diamond Earrings
TrendsSep 29, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Ear Focus

Move over neck mess, the ear story is the way to make a layering statement today.

Mark Henry Leandra Medine Cohen
IndependentsSep 29, 2025
Mark Henry Jewelry to Debut in Canada

The New York-based brand is set to launch a limited-time offering for the holiday season at Holt Renfrew in Toronto.

Overnight volume 7 bridal catalog
MajorsSep 29, 2025
Overnight Releases New Bridal Catalog

The “Volume 7” bridal catalog features best-selling engagement rings, trending styles, and a new section highlighting anniversary bands.

Hand holding holiday shopping bags
SurveysSep 26, 2025
Online Shopping, Influencers to Drive Holiday Spending, Mastercard Says

Holiday sales growth is expected to slow as consumers grapple with inflation and tariff-related uncertainty.

Austin Shines Jewelry Award
Events & AwardsSep 26, 2025
Winners of Austin Jewelry Design Contest Announced

Jamie Turner Designs is among the winners of the local “Austin Shines” contest, hosted by Eliza Page, a jewelry store in Austin, Texas.

Kwit Square Signet Pinky Ring in Red and Azure
TrendsSep 26, 2025
Piece of the Week: Kwit Jewelry’s Square Signet Pinky Ring

The red and azure colorway is one of many fun enamel pairings offered, bringing whimsy to the classic style of a monogramed signet ring.

Jewelers of America Fly In
Policies & IssuesSep 25, 2025
JA CEO Provides Tariff Update Following Annual Fly-In

A trade deal with Switzerland seems probable, but reaching an agreement with India remains a challenge, David Bonaparte said.

Entrance to Jwaneng diamond mine in Botswana
SourcingSep 25, 2025
2 African Countries Aim to Take Stake in De Beers

Botswana’s president said his country wants a controlling share, while Angola envisions multiple countries holding minority stakes.

Kira Jewels Growing Rowing Machines
Lab-GrownSep 25, 2025
Kira Jewels Expands Lab-Grown Diamond Production

The manufacturer is adding 1,400 chemical vapor deposition (CVD) reactors to its growing facility in India.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy