Jewelers who misinterpret the state of the jewelry market risk employing the wrong retail strategy, cautions columnist Sherry Smith.
SSEF, Gubelin agree on gem color standards
The two Swiss gem labs have come to an agreement on the color and quality standards for “pigeon blood red” and “royal blue,” terms used to describe rubies and sapphires.
Basel, Switzerland--Swiss labs Gemmological Institute SSEF and Gübelin Gem Lab have harmonized their standards of color and quality criteria when it comes to the terms “pigeon blood red” and “royal blue,” which are used for fine rubies and sapphires.
SSEF and Gübelin both independently had developed their own criteria for using those color terms. But, now, in order to bring clarity to the industry and unify standards, the labs have compared their criteria and made a few minor changes in order to harmonize their color and quality standards, they said.
For a ruby or sapphire to qualify for use with the terms, the color has to be “an intense, saturated and homogenous red or blue,” the two labs said. The exact ranges of hue, saturation and tone are defined by a set of master stones.
“Pigeon blood red” is described as a red color with no apparent modifiers such as blue or brown, though a minute purplish tint is acceptable. The body color of a stone that can be deemed as this color also is complemented by a strong fluorescence when it is exposed to ultraviolet light.
“Royal blue,” meanwhile, is best described as a saturated blue color, either pure or with a very slight purplish tint.
In terms of quality, the terms can be applied only to rubies and sapphires that exhibit fine qualities and have not undergone any modification of color and/or clarity; any type of treatment disqualifies the stones from being described by these color terms.
Additionally, they must be relatively free of eye-visible or dark inclusions and must show a homogenous color distribution with vivid internal reflections, according to the labs.
The size of the stone is not taken into consideration, so small rubies and sapphires still may qualify for these two color terms.
“Clearly, such stringent sets of criteria implies that only a very small percentage of rubies and sapphires qualify,” said Daniel Nyfeler, managing director of the Gübelin Gem Lab. “This is in line with the experience and belief of both Gübelin and SSEF that historically only exceptional rubies and sapphires were attributed these quality terms.”
The Latest

In her newly expanded role, she will continue to oversee the jewelry category, as well as watches, home, and accessories.

“The Godfather II” watch plays two melodies from the mob film’s score, “The Godfather’s Waltz” and “The Godfather Love Theme.”

You deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.

Organizers have also introduced the new JCK Talks Signature Series, as well as an offering of watch-focused workshops and lectures.


The Alan Hodgkinson Medal recognizes gemologists who are consistently generous with their time and expertise.

The Swiss watchmaker is changing up its executive leadership team as part of a restructuring.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

The “What’s Your Signature?” campaign invites women to think about how they see themselves.

The big diamond’s sale added to the company’s revenue though the market remains “challenging” overall, particularly for smaller goods.

Rob Bates of The Jewelry Wire will also moderate a panel on the state of the jewelry industry during the virtual event.

The Jewelry Symposium will honor two industry veterans with lifetime achievement awards at its upcoming May event.

With their durability, brilliance, and beauty, diamonds are the perfect stone for everyday birthstone jewelry.

The retailer failed to file its annual report on time and said it may issue a going concern warning.

Smith recounts a recent trip to the post office that included an uncomfortable, embarrassing, and public exchange between two employees.

John Cowley, who has more than 30 years of experience, is succeeding Tearle as the lab’s chief financial officer.

Founder Erica Silverglide has designed 35 colorful pieces set with fluorescing gemstones for the brand's first finished jewelry offering.

“Ukrainian Jewelry | Contemporary Jewelry and Art Jewelry from Ukraine” features 33 contemporary Ukrainian designers and studios.

“The Golden Now” campaign celebrates the here and now with the brand’s signature styles and a selection of its new pieces.

Signet confirmed that Caffie, president of Zales and Banter, and Bentzen, who headed Blue Nile, have left the company.

The antique jewelry dealer talks about the importance of including Black Americans in jewelry history and preserving their stories.

Both its mines faced challenges last year, from operational issues to disruptions in the market.

Iconic pieces, like the Mike Todd Diamond Tiara, appear in the superstar’s new music video for her song inspired by the actress.

The luxury retailer, which went Chapter 11 in January, announced Thursday that it has secured $500 million in exit financing.

The NouvelleBox ballroom will feature independent jewelry designers, including Lene Vibe, Wyld Box Jewelry, and Kiaia Limited.

The one-of-a-kind locket, our Piece of the Week, opens to reveal three hidden images to keep close to your heart.

The new facility was also designed to better serve its growing customer base in Canada.


























