The model and fashion editor’s gold evening bags were the top lots at the London sale, going for more than $25,000 each.
SSEF, Gubelin agree on gem color standards
The two Swiss gem labs have come to an agreement on the color and quality standards for “pigeon blood red” and “royal blue,” terms used to describe rubies and sapphires.
Basel, Switzerland--Swiss labs Gemmological Institute SSEF and Gübelin Gem Lab have harmonized their standards of color and quality criteria when it comes to the terms “pigeon blood red” and “royal blue,” which are used for fine rubies and sapphires.
SSEF and Gübelin both independently had developed their own criteria for using those color terms. But, now, in order to bring clarity to the industry and unify standards, the labs have compared their criteria and made a few minor changes in order to harmonize their color and quality standards, they said.
For a ruby or sapphire to qualify for use with the terms, the color has to be “an intense, saturated and homogenous red or blue,” the two labs said. The exact ranges of hue, saturation and tone are defined by a set of master stones.
“Pigeon blood red” is described as a red color with no apparent modifiers such as blue or brown, though a minute purplish tint is acceptable. The body color of a stone that can be deemed as this color also is complemented by a strong fluorescence when it is exposed to ultraviolet light.
“Royal blue,” meanwhile, is best described as a saturated blue color, either pure or with a very slight purplish tint.
In terms of quality, the terms can be applied only to rubies and sapphires that exhibit fine qualities and have not undergone any modification of color and/or clarity; any type of treatment disqualifies the stones from being described by these color terms.
Additionally, they must be relatively free of eye-visible or dark inclusions and must show a homogenous color distribution with vivid internal reflections, according to the labs.
The size of the stone is not taken into consideration, so small rubies and sapphires still may qualify for these two color terms.
“Clearly, such stringent sets of criteria implies that only a very small percentage of rubies and sapphires qualify,” said Daniel Nyfeler, managing director of the Gübelin Gem Lab. “This is in line with the experience and belief of both Gübelin and SSEF that historically only exceptional rubies and sapphires were attributed these quality terms.”
The Latest

Fresh off winning the David Yurman Gem Awards Grant, Nelson discusses the ring that launched his career and his plans for the future.

The “stunning” Type IIb stone was found via x-ray technology at its Karowe mine in Botswana.

You deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.

“The Basics of Jewelry” has been updated to include modern topics and visuals.


Held just before the Oscars, the jewelry industry’s big awards show had its share of standout jewelry, gowns, and acceptance speeches.

The Brazilian mine’s new collection features cabochons in soft, muted shades like silver and lilac.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

The Academy Award-winning actress stars in Tiffany & Co.’s latest commercial, which debuted Sunday night during the Oscars.

The organizational change follows Kering’s promise of a transformation after declining sales in 2025.

Natalie Francisco rounds up the top Oscars jewels, including Rose Byrne’s Taffin necklace with a more than 20-carat yellow-brown diamond.

Béatrice Goasglas has been with TAG Heuer since 2018. She is the first woman to head the 166-year-old, LVMH-owned watch brand.

The store features the first in-store build for the jeweler’s in-house “Bella Ponte” bridal brand.

The live fine jewelry auction will take place later this week, showcasing antique pieces, rare gemstones, and signed jewels.

Our Pieces of the Week honor the 2026 nominees for the Gem Award for Jewelry Design, Silvia Furmanovich, Cece Fein-Hughes, and Catherine Sarr.

The 24-piece watch collection is set to debut in spring 2027.

Pooler, who has more than 25 years’ experience in jewelry, is now chief operating officer of Modani Jewels, Soham Diamonds, and SNJ Creations.

The reopening of the Waldorf Astoria means a homecoming for the industry group’s annual event, which will take place Saturday.

McCormack looked to the 19th century’s “golden age” of astronomy when designing her new celestial-themed collection.

Nelson will be honored as the inaugural grant winner at the Gem Awards gala on Friday.

The new smart design software allows jewelers to configure, price, and confirm a custom engagement ring in real time for in-store customers.

The 10,000-square-foot diamond manufacturing facility officially opened in late February and employs 50 people.

The MJSA Education Foundation’s scholarships support students pursuing jewelry careers.

The largest white diamond to come to market in the U.K. in more than a decade, the VVS1, I-color stone is expected to top $1 million.

Skelly shares her plans for reimagining the fine jewelry retailer she re-acquired after it faltered last year.

The collection takes inspiration from the emotional space between people, moments, and experiences.

In 2026, the jewelry retailer is celebrating a milestone only a small percentage of family-owned businesses survive to see.






















