IndependentsNov 09, 2026
More Information. More Confidence. One GIA Jewelry Report.The GIA Jewelry Report helps retailers answer customer questions with independent, science-based information from GIA—all in one report.
EditorsJun 21, 2011
Yellow melee = caution
While in Carlsbad, Calif. for Gemological Institute of America’s (GIA) Symposium last month, the never-shy Martin Rapaport twice publicly named one specific high-end jeweler for selling what could be high-pressure, high-temperature-treated (HPHT) yellow melee in their stores. As a reporter,...
While in Carlsbad, Calif. for Gemological Institute of America’s (GIA) Symposium last month, the never-shy Martin Rapaport twice publicly named one specific high-end jeweler for selling what could be high-pressure, high-temperature-treated (HPHT) yellow melee in their stores.
As a reporter, my ears perk up when I hear comments such as these. Does Rapaport, an industry veteran, have the inside scoop on jewelry’s next big scandal? Does he know about a big, complicated lawsuit that involves pouring over hundreds pages of dense court documents until you go cross-eyed?
As it turns out, no. Rapaport later said he had no evidence that this particular jeweler was selling HPHT-treated yellow melee. He was simply calling to light an issue that has arisen in the industry and could impact any jeweler: HPHT-treated yellow melee.
HPHT-treated yellow melee (pictured below) is more difficult to identify as being treated than irradiated yellow melee, said Tom Moses, GIA’s senior vice president of laboratory and research. The instrumentation needed to detect HPHT-treated yellow melee is a bit more sophisticated and, visually, they do not stand out as being treated.
Yellow melee treated with irradiation takes on more of a “taxi-cab yellow” tone (a comparison I can appreciate fully living in New York City) while the HPHT-treated yellow melee “blends in more,” Moses said. He added that yellow HPHT-treated melee also more closely resembles its natural counterparts than HPHT-treated blue or pink melee, which tends to look unnaturally bright.
“There’s no question it can create a big challenge,” he said. “The colors produced with that kind of treatment overlap pretty well with colors that occur naturally. An unsuspecting person that deals in this kind of thing could, in fact, be fooled.”
As many of you already know, HPHT has been around for a number of years but, in industry-treatment terms, is a relatively new process. The trend toward using the treatment on smaller stones is on that has increased in recent years as the process has evolved, spreading first to natural colored diamonds and then to smaller and smaller diamonds.
“Not every large stone is an acceptable candidate for the (HPHT) process,” Moses said. “When you run out of those stones, you look to do other things.”
His advice for the industry: deal with people you trust. Know your suppliers well enough to know that you’re not being sold HPHT-treated goods that aren’t identified as such.
Unless you have 100
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
percent confidence in your supplier, then submit a random sample of yellow melee to a well-equipped and well-staffed grading lab for testing.
Jewelers should check with their preferred lab to see what kind of, if any, testing services are available for melee and to make sure the lab has the necessary equipment to detect HPHT-treated melee.
Jewelers should check with their preferred lab to see what kind of, if any, testing services are available for melee and to make sure the lab has the necessary equipment to detect HPHT-treated melee.
More on Editors
The Latest
TrendsNov 06, 2026
Pat Pruitt’s DragonFly Earrings Take Flight on Election NightGroundbreaking New Mexico Governor-elect Deb Haaland wore the earrings, our Piece of the Week, when she declared victory on Tuesday.
MajorsNov 06, 2026
SNL’s Colin Jost Finds the Perfect Gift in Kay Jewelers’ Holiday AdJost goes on an epic journey, traversing rough seas and encountering a cyclops, to discover the perfect holiday gift.
Brought to you by
How Overnight Mountings’ Bridal Builder Makes Custom Engagement Ring Design Easier to SellWith customization becoming more expected in engagement ring shopping, the Bridal Builder makes the process tangible.
Supplier BulletinNov 05, 2026
Winning With GCAL 8X®: What’s Working at the CounterSponsored by GCAL by Sarine
Weekly QuizNov 05, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SurveysNov 05, 2026
What Retailers Should Know About Holiday Shoppers This YearFrom shrinking budgets to AI elves, here are five takeaways from holiday reports by Bain, Adobe, Mastercard, NRF, and insights from YouGov.
CollectionsNov 05, 2026
Judi Powers, Russell Jones Unleash Joy With New CollaborationThe designers combined their talents for Little Pet Portraits, hand-painted miniatures of our best friends set in a piece of jewelry.
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Launches 2026 Holiday Campaign Championing Natural DiamondsA Diamond Is Forever's holiday campaign reimagines natural diamond icons for a new generation celebrating individuality.
FinancialsNov 05, 2026
Brilliant Earth Continued to Resonate With High-Income Shoppers in Q3Its non-bridal fine jewelry remains the star of the show, recently launching new collections inspired by Elizabeth Taylor and Jane Goodall.
MajorsNov 05, 2026
Ariana Grande Stars In Swarovski’s Holiday Campaign“Joy: The Swarovski Musical” features Ariana Grande as the leading lady in scenes inspired by classic musical montages.
GradingNov 05, 2026
GIA to Offer Next-Day Holiday ServicesThe lab will bring back its complimentary next-day service for some reports starting next week.
CrimeNov 04, 2026
$250K+ in Undeclared Cartier Jewelry Seized at Philadelphia AirportA Pennsylvania woman failed to declare a ring and a bracelet, discarding the boxes and receipts to conceal the purchases, officials said.
FinancialsNov 04, 2026
Pandora’s Q3 Sales Up 7% Amid Focus on DesignNew collections and relevant marketing pushed the company forward, while Pandora’s lab-grown diamond sales continue to lag.
Events & AwardsNov 04, 2026
NYC Jewelry Week 2026 Is the Largest Edition YetThe citywide celebration, slated for Nov. 16-22, is set to host more than 175 events, including live jewelry-making demos.
MajorsNov 04, 2026
Bergdorf Goodman Names New PresidentLanessa Elrod, former president and CEO of Louis Vuitton Americas, has stepped into the role as the retailer celebrates 125 years.
AuctionsNov 03, 2026
Infinity Gauntlet Set With 170+ Carats of Colored Gemstones Up for AuctionA replica of one of the most powerful objects in the Marvel Cinematic Universe, the glove is heading to auction next month in Abu Dhabi.
IndependentsNov 03, 2026
Longtime Jewelry Marketer Arthur Klein Dies at 89Klein, who had his own marketing agency and worked for Gabriel & Co. and Trans American Diamond, is remembered as a kind man.
IndependentsNov 03, 2026
Zadok Jewelers Toasts To 50 Years With Diamond Bracelet GiveawayTo enter the giveaway, locals can purchase a featured beverage from one of eight participating restaurants in Houston and Austin, Texas.
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2026
David Yurman Gem Awards Grant Opens 2027 ApplicationsThe grant recipient will be awarded $50,000 as well as mentoring meetings with executives at David Yurman and other industry executives.
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2026
NAJA, Instappraise Name 2026 Scholarship WinnersThe winners include a non-NAJA member seeking training, a member beginning NAJA courses, and a member becoming a Certified Master Appraiser.
AuctionsNov 02, 2026
197-Carat ‘Romanov Sapphire’ Heads to Sotheby’s GenevaThe rare jewel, which has links to Russia’s Romanov dynasty, is estimated to fetch up to $2 million.
CrimeNov 02, 2026
Customs Seizes More Than 400 Fake Audemars Piguet WatchesIt is one of several seizures of counterfeit jewelry and watches by U.S. Customs and Border Protection officials in Louisville this year.
MajorsNov 02, 2026
Lawrence Bock, Caryl Capeci, Amanda Coleman-Phelps Join JA Board Jewelers of America announced the additions to its board of directors following its annual general meeting, held last week.
CollectionsNov 02, 2026
Olympian Kristi Yamaguchi, Heller Jewelers Expand ‘Always Dream’ CollectionThe jewelry collection supports Yamaguchi’s Always Dream foundation, which provides reading and educational resources to families in need.
Events & AwardsOct 30, 2026
Illuminating Carved Paraiba Pendant, Suite of Moonstones Wow at Spectrum AwardsSpectrum’s “Best of Show” honors went to a 101-carat Paraiba carved to look like Medusa that has a magnet-activated LED light.
TrendsOct 30, 2026
Edina Kiss’ Pendants Say ‘Eye’m Watching You’Our Halloween Pieces of the Week are four “Eye” pendants, each set with colorful gemstones.
MajorsOct 30, 2026
The RealReal Hires Former eBay Exec as New Chief Merchandising OfficerAlexis Hoopes expanded eBay’s “Authenticity Guarantee” program during her tenure.
