Located in Valenza, the now 355,000-square-foot facility includes a new jewelry school that’s open to the public, Scuola Bulgari.
Santo by Zani’s Inspired New Range of Jewelry
Jewelry designer Zani Gugelmann is putting a modern spin on a Victorian design concept.

New York--Santo by Zani jewelry designer Zani Gugelmann is putting a modern spin on a Victorian design concept.
Officially launched at Bergdorf Goodman last November, Santo by Zani comprises a growing range of jewelry based on Masonic orbs.
Worn in Victorian times and into the early 20th century, Masonic orb pendants consisted of a multi-paneled sphere that, when unhinged, unfold into the shape of a cross engraved with Masonic symbols.
The orb collection was in development for two years prior to its Bergdorf launch and is now being sold in a Moda Operandi trunk show as well as on the Santo by Zani website.
The line begins retailing at $750 for a pair of folded studs and runs upward of $16,000 for certain large orb pendants. The brand offers customization by special order.
National Jeweler chatted with Gugelmann about her technical designs, love of surprises and what’s next for her brand.
National Jeweler: How did you come to work in jewelry design?
Zani Gugelmann: I learned advanced classical jewelry making techniques at Cecelia Bauer in New York City. I studied there in 1997, and then again in 2007.
Being able to make jewelry and understand the complexities of the process from start to finish allows one to create and design pieces that one could not have even previously imagined.
NJ: The Santo by Zani folding technique must have taken quite a bit of trial and error to perfect. Can you explain what that design process was like?
ZG: The folding technique certainly took trial and error. Each and every piece of my collection requires extreme precision--both in 3D modeling and hand crafting. Each piece is assembled with hinges, links and clasps, allowing for movement and complete transformation. The jewelry can be worn two ways--open or closed, personal or exposed to the world.
Elements of curiosity, excitement and the notion of a child-like surprise have inspired and driven me to make this collection.
NJ: What was your inspiration behind the folding concept?
ZG: The inspiration behind the folding concept is a mixture of intricate craft and the element of wonder and metamorphosis.
I
NJ: Who is the Santo by Zani woman? How would you describe her?
ZG: The Santo by Zani woman, or man, is truly a lover of jewelry first and foremost. I imagine he or she highly regards and respects innovative design as well as traditional jewelry craft and luxurious raw materials. These pieces are colorful and mysteriously exciting. An intimacy between the wearer and physical piece develops--the jewelry will transform with you, from day to night, winter to spring, and from generation to generation.
NJ: What’s next for your brand, and in what kind of stores do you think it would be a great fit?
ZG: There are lots of surprises in the works! I can’t spill my secrets quite yet, but stay tuned for an exciting launch.
In terms of stores, what’s most important to me is a boutique that truly understands the art of jewelry, inside and out.
NJ: How often will you be releasing new pieces and/or collections?
ZG: My pieces are more intricate and technical than most people imagine. Personally, quality is crucial to me, especially since many of the pieces are designed to be modern day heirlooms. When I feel they are perfect, they are released. New pieces are always in the works; they take approximately three months to perfect.
NJ: Do you have a favorite piece you’ve created or one that you never take off?
ZG: I have to admit I don’t have a favorite piece. I wear my pieces closed so it all depends on what I want to hold close to my heart or show and expose to people.
Sometimes I feel like wearing color, so I wear one of my pieces with enamel. Other times I like wearing my pieces that have personal inscriptions inside, making me very sentimental.

The Latest

Paola Sasplugas, co-founder of the Barcelona-based jewelry brand, received the Fine Jewelry Award.

A platinum Zenith-powered Daytona commissioned in the late ‘90s will headline Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in Geneva next month.

The risk of laboratory-grown diamonds being falsely presented as natural diamonds presents a very significant danger to consumer trust.

The basketball stars wear men’s jewelry from the “Curb Chain” collection.


The Signet Jewelers-owned retailer wants to encourage younger shoppers to wear fine jewelry every day, not just on special occasions.

The 21 pieces, all from a private collector, will be offered at its Magnificent Jewels auction next month.

Lilian Raji answers a question from a reader who is looking to grow her jewelry business but has a limited marketing budget.

GCAL by Sarine created the new role to sharpen the company’s focus on strategic partnerships and scalable expansion.

The Indiana jeweler has acquired Scottsdale Fine Jewelers in Scottsdale, Arizona.

“Cartier: Design, Craft, and Legacy” opened earlier this month at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

Van Cott Jewelers in Vestal, New York, is hosting a going-out-of-business sale.

Industry veteran Samantha Larson has held leadership roles at Borsheims, McTeigue & McClelland, Stuller, and Long’s Jewelers.
The two organizations will hold the educational event together this fall in Mississippi.

The entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.

The Ukrainian brand’s new pendant is modeled after a traditional paska, a pastry often baked for Easter in Eastern European cultures.

The jeweler has announced a grand reopening for its recently remodeled location in Peoria, Illinois.

The “Strong Like Mom” campaign features moms who work at Tiffany & Co. and their children.

Interior designer Athena Calderone looked to decor from the 1920s and 1930s when crafting her first fine jewelry collection.

During a call about its full-year results, CEO Efraim Grinberg discussed how the company is approaching the uncertainty surrounding tariffs.

The free program provides educational content for jewelry salespeople and enthusiasts to learn or refresh their diamond knowledge.

The feedback will be used to prepare other jewelers for the challenges ahead, the organization said.

The online sessions are designed to teach jewelers to use AI tools like ChatGPT and Claude to grow their business.

The opening marks the jewelry retailer’s first location in the Midwest.

The “United in Love” collection offers tangible mementos of hearts entwined with traditional and non-traditional commitment heirlooms.

Robert Goodman Jewelers will hold a “Black Jewelry Designers and Makers” event on April 27.