SurveysJul 27, 2026
Jewelry Leads Luxury Market Amid Stabilization, Bain SaysBain & Company delved into the trends shaping the luxury market, the impact of AI, and more in its recent study.
TrendsDec 08, 2016
Is Art Jewelry Poised to Take Off?
There are a number of people in the jewelry industry who think so, given younger consumers’ desire for pieces with perspective and a story to tell.
Art jewelry’s appeal to the younger generation has increased as the consumer group discover the expressive designs the jewelry offers, such as this piece from Oblik Atelier.
New York--Conversations about what millennials are buying usually revolve around a few common themes--they’re looking for experiences, or they’re looking for products that are unique and personal to them.
Enter art jewelry, a category that has different meaning to different people but, regardless of definition, offers uniqueness and personality in spades.
While there are a few different ways to describe or define art jewelry, generally the term refers to jewelry that represents an artist or designer’s idea of what jewelry should be and how it should be worn. Art jewelry is, by its very definition, expressive.
“I have always expressed myself through adornment, and I see jewelry as an extension of one’s self,” designer Laura Wood told National Jeweler. “My work is a constant exploration in form and pattern making and how these elements can complement the human form.”
This doesn’t differ much from what are called contemporary fine jewelry pieces, and there is some overlap, though Patricia Faber of the Aaron Faber Gallery in New York said that art jewelry generally can be identified by their looks--the structure and form brought to them.
For Faber, the term also means that the pieces are designed and made by one person at a bench, and that they often are one-of-a-kind with a unique perspective.
“That’s where art jewelry has an appeal to the younger generation,” she said. “It has a point of view.”
The Journey
Art jewelry has been a movement for more than six decades, said private art (and art jewelry) dealer Donna Schneier, going through an explosive period in the 1960s and ‘70s before quieting down in the ‘80s and ‘90s.
Enter art jewelry, a category that has different meaning to different people but, regardless of definition, offers uniqueness and personality in spades.
While there are a few different ways to describe or define art jewelry, generally the term refers to jewelry that represents an artist or designer’s idea of what jewelry should be and how it should be worn. Art jewelry is, by its very definition, expressive.
“I have always expressed myself through adornment, and I see jewelry as an extension of one’s self,” designer Laura Wood told National Jeweler. “My work is a constant exploration in form and pattern making and how these elements can complement the human form.”
This doesn’t differ much from what are called contemporary fine jewelry pieces, and there is some overlap, though Patricia Faber of the Aaron Faber Gallery in New York said that art jewelry generally can be identified by their looks--the structure and form brought to them.
For Faber, the term also means that the pieces are designed and made by one person at a bench, and that they often are one-of-a-kind with a unique perspective.
“That’s where art jewelry has an appeal to the younger generation,” she said. “It has a point of view.”
The Journey
Art jewelry has been a movement for more than six decades, said private art (and art jewelry) dealer Donna Schneier, going through an explosive period in the 1960s and ‘70s before quieting down in the ‘80s and ‘90s.
“Customers are hungry for alternatives to the sameness they see in cookie-cutter stores all over the country. Do not underestimate the willingness of today’s customers to embrace alternative jewelry.” --Marthe La Van, Mora Contemporary Jewelry Design
Schneier said that while the category started out being defined by the materials used--generally, alternative--it since has changed as the designers have begun to embrace all materials, including fine metals and gems.
And while the phrase “art jewelry” might bring to mind really elaborate, statement-making pieces, there also are art jewelry designers who seemingly toe the line and combine it with a more modern fine jewelry production aesthetic, creating pieces that tend to be more saleable to a larger audience.
It’s this section of the category, it seems, that provides upside for art jewelry--the pieces that appeal to a larger consumer base.
And while the phrase “art jewelry” might bring to mind really elaborate, statement-making pieces, there also are art jewelry designers who seemingly toe the line and combine it with a more modern fine jewelry production aesthetic, creating pieces that tend to be more saleable to a larger audience.
It’s this section of the category, it seems, that provides upside for art jewelry--the pieces that appeal to a larger consumer base.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
Designer Ruta Reifen got her start with art jewelry. While she still has a foot in that world, she has since put her “creative process through a filter,” as she puts it, to reduce her designs to a more classic format and make them saleable to a wider audience.
She said she wanted her jewelry to be “desirable to more, rather than understood by some.”
What she found in the art jewelry world is that it’s a very insular community, with designers represented by art galleries and serious collectors only buying the jewelry.
The future of the category, she believes, lies in its ability to start speaking to a larger audience, finding a way to blend with the artistic part of the process with fine jewelry’s commitment to function and wearability.
And while there are many designers in art jewelry using fine metals and materials, art jewelry also is known for uses of alternative materials, which speaks to the younger consumer group not only for its unique designs but also because, often, that means a great price point.
This has led the millennial generation to find their way into the category more and more, especially for alternative bridal.
Realistic for Retail?
As for whether there’s a place for this kind of jewelry in retail jewelry stores instead of just art galleries, Marthe Le Van of Mora Contemporary Jewelry Design in Asheville, North Carolina said the answer is a resounding yes.
“Customers are hungry for alternatives to the sameness they see in cookie-cutter stores all over the country. Do not underestimate the willingness of today’s customers to embrace alternative jewelry.”
She said she wanted her jewelry to be “desirable to more, rather than understood by some.”
What she found in the art jewelry world is that it’s a very insular community, with designers represented by art galleries and serious collectors only buying the jewelry.
The future of the category, she believes, lies in its ability to start speaking to a larger audience, finding a way to blend with the artistic part of the process with fine jewelry’s commitment to function and wearability.
And while there are many designers in art jewelry using fine metals and materials, art jewelry also is known for uses of alternative materials, which speaks to the younger consumer group not only for its unique designs but also because, often, that means a great price point.
This has led the millennial generation to find their way into the category more and more, especially for alternative bridal.
Realistic for Retail?
As for whether there’s a place for this kind of jewelry in retail jewelry stores instead of just art galleries, Marthe Le Van of Mora Contemporary Jewelry Design in Asheville, North Carolina said the answer is a resounding yes.
“Customers are hungry for alternatives to the sameness they see in cookie-cutter stores all over the country. Do not underestimate the willingness of today’s customers to embrace alternative jewelry.”
Baiyang Qiu’s square earrings are made with diamonds and 18-karat yellow gold ($2,350)
Caitie Sellers’ large Torque necklace made with Argentium silver and oxidized copper mesh ($1,900)
Elise Bergeron’s leaf pearl statement brooch is made of fused 22-karat yellow gold and fine pure silver ($4,850)
The five-stone Jet Row bracelet from Joanna Gollberg, featuring kyanite, blue topaz, amazonite, raw ammonite and lapis lazuli in sterling silver ($420)
Laura Wood’s earrings feature a lace-shaped stud at top with a teardrop dangle and moonstone, all in sterling silver and brass ($286).
Leah Smithson’s “Triple Koyu” porcelain poppy and cherry blossom flower earrings in gold ($465)
This piece from Lucie Heskett-Brem features 18-karat yellow gold chains and a caged 14 mm South Sea pearl at center that fall into a draped bib style when worn as a necklace (hanging on a sterling silver half circle collar at left) ($5,700). With her most recent work expanding the chain into three dimensions, this piece also can be featured as a pyramidal sculpture when hung a certain way from a four-sided base.
This necklace from Oblik Atelier is made of hand-fabricated brass with gold plating ($900)
Claudio Pino’s 18-karat gold ring with black spinel and carnelian ($14,400)
Indeed, for traditional jewelry retailers the category offers some very interesting opportunities.
Faber said that carrying art jewelry can help set a jeweler apart from their local competition, and also can open them up to attracting new customers who want pieces like these but don’t shop at the store.
“It’s a great window into new kinds of jewelry and new customers who are already in the community and going to craft or art fairs and seeking it out,” she said.
For retailers looking to explore art jewelry and the designers and artists within it, there are a number of shows, fairs and galleries to visit, such as Schmuck in Germany and Galerie Marzee in the Netherlands.
There’s also the Bijoux! event in Palm Beach, which has had a huge impact on changing the face of jewelry in that community as more people discovered these designs, said Schneier, the private art and jewelry dealer.
“I think that if we can invade the concept of jewelry in Palm Beach,” she said, “we can do it anywhere.”
Faber said that carrying art jewelry can help set a jeweler apart from their local competition, and also can open them up to attracting new customers who want pieces like these but don’t shop at the store.
“It’s a great window into new kinds of jewelry and new customers who are already in the community and going to craft or art fairs and seeking it out,” she said.
For retailers looking to explore art jewelry and the designers and artists within it, there are a number of shows, fairs and galleries to visit, such as Schmuck in Germany and Galerie Marzee in the Netherlands.
There’s also the Bijoux! event in Palm Beach, which has had a huge impact on changing the face of jewelry in that community as more people discovered these designs, said Schneier, the private art and jewelry dealer.
“I think that if we can invade the concept of jewelry in Palm Beach,” she said, “we can do it anywhere.”
“Venture outside the standard industry shows, get involved in the art jewelry community, be brave and trust your instincts.” -- Marthe Le Van
There are a few things for retailers to keep in mind though, experts said.
For stores new to the idea, it might be best to start with just a few designers, Faber said, finding some styles that aren’t yet available in the community to offer a fresh perspective. Make sure the styles are compatible with each other and ignite passion with the sales team.
Le Van, meanwhile, said that the key to success is curating a diverse collection of jewelry showing a range of style, scale and price point.
From a design perspective, Wood said there is definitely a space for her kind of work in a modern retail jewelry store but added, “The caveat is in regards to display. I have work in places that blend the sales floor with fine and alternative media--it is of the utmost importance that the art jewelry be given the same attention to detail and significance as the fine jewelry items.”
Another important aspect of selling art jewelry--as with all jewelry--is making it accessible for customers to touch and feel.
When it comes to selling art jewelry, the process starts with having a conversation between artist and gallery or store. When the work arrives, it should come with an artist statement that includes key details for selling the piece, Wood said.
Stone carat weight, metal karat weight and metal type are important descriptors for selling fine jewelry, and the content, materials and artist statement are the equivalent for art jewelry.
“It is important to offer the opportunity to try on the work or even just handle it so that it becomes more approachable,” she said, adding that there has to be a genuine love for art jewelry to make it worth it for both designer and retailer.
“It should not be on a sales floor to make the surroundings more interesting.”
Le Van said that she does find that art jewelry requires a “healthy dose” of consumer education, but added that it’s also a great way to engage customer and build relationships. And, in the end, it’s worth it.
“There is amazing jewelry being created today that will help your store stand out, grow your audience and increase your bottom line. All you have to do it look for it,” she said. “Venture outside the standard industry shows, get involved in the art jewelry community, be brave and trust your instincts.”
More on Trends
The Latest
SourcingJul 27, 2026
‘Rubies’ Goes on Display at Harvard MuseumThe exhibition reveals the gemology, geology, and cultural history of the iconic red gemstone.
Policies & IssuesJul 24, 2026
New Trump Tariffs: What They Mean for Jewelry The new sweeping slate of tariffs impacts 60 countries, including India, China, Thailand, Hong Kong, and the United Arab Emirates.
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center StageColored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.
PodcastsJul 23, 2026
Episode 7: Reinhold Jewelers on the Power of RelationshipsMildred Marcano Abrams and Yael Reinhold join the podcast to talk community connections, holiday plans, and preserving Reinhold’s legacy.
Weekly QuizJul 23, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SourcingJul 23, 2026
De Beers’ Production Jumps 88 Percent in Q2 Production also was up in the first half of 2026 but is expected to “substantially” decrease in H2 as two key mines undergo maintenance.
CollectionsJul 23, 2026
Silvia Furmanovich’s New Collection Travels Back to the 1920s“Art Deco” fuses ancestral techniques, rare materials, and modern perspectives as a tribute to the optimism and curiosity of the movement.
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce SolutionsDCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.
IndependentsJul 23, 2026
Sissy's Log Cabin Opens Casino StoreThe jeweler’s newest store is inside Arkansas’ Saracen Casino Resort.
WatchesJul 23, 2026
Movado Inks Licensing Deal With Kate Spade New YorkThe watch company will design, manufacture, and distribute Kate Spade New York watches.
Policies & IssuesJul 22, 2026
Trump to Put 50% Tariff on Canadian Goods The higher tax is set to go into effect in August and will apply to loose polished diamonds as well as precious and base metals jewelry.
CollectionsJul 22, 2026
Monica Rich Kosann’s High Jewelry Is FruitfulThe “Enchanted Garden” series features a cherry, lemon, and pear that each hold a little secret inside.
IndependentsJul 22, 2026
Liljenquist Beckstead Opens Rolex New BoutiqueIt’s located in Tysons Galleria, an upscale shopping center in the Washington, D.C., metro area.
Events & AwardsJul 22, 2026
NY Now Returns in August Under New OwnershipThe show, recently acquired by Rockview Management Group, will be held at New York City’s Javits Center from Aug. 2-4.
ColumnistsJul 21, 2026
Sherry Smith: Shattering the Illusion of the ‘Either/Or’ Diamond MarketSmith offers retailers guidance on creating an environment where natural and lab-grown diamonds can both thrive.
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2026
Apollo Funds Completes Emerald AcquisitionFormer Emerald President and CEO Hervé Sedky has transitioned to the role of senior advisor.
CollectionsJul 21, 2026
Graff’s New Butterfly High Jewelry Brooches MetamorphosizeThe 12-piece capsule collection transforms from brooches to pendants.
SourcingJul 21, 2026
Anglo Reportedly Selects Gareth Penny’s Consortium as Top Bidder for De BeersA Botswana government official told lawmakers Anglo has selected The Global Diamond Consortium, an entity chaired by Penny, to buy De Beers.
Policies & IssuesJul 20, 2026
Tariffs on Brazil to Increase But Rough Gemstones ExemptThe new tariff, imposed after a Trump administration study, is 25 percent and will stack on top of existing tariffs.
CollectionsJul 20, 2026
Vhernier Transforms ‘Freccia’ Collection Into High JewelryThe collection from 2014 has been reinterpreted into high jewelry with its signature triangular-shaped elements.
MajorsJul 20, 2026
Krista Collins Walters Promoted to Publisher of InstoreShe will also take on the role of vice president of jewelry for SmartWork Media, a newly created position.
Events & AwardsJul 20, 2026
TJS Accepting Speaker Proposals for 2027 EventOrganizers are looking for presentations on topics like manufacturing, technology and research, bench work, gemstones, and sustainability.
CollectionsJul 17, 2026
HOWL Taps Shailene Woodley for ‘Home Sweet Home’ CampaignWoodley is seen in the campaign wearing our Piece of the Week, the “Frida” collar featuring 13 pieces of hand-carved Venetian glass.
SourcingJul 17, 2026
U.K. Woman Pays £5 for £15K Diamond Ring at Car Boot SaleA WeBuyVintage jewelry expert uncovered how much the flea market find was actually worth.
SourcingJul 17, 2026
Diamond Dealer Jeff Pancis Pens MemoirThe founder of natural colored diamond wholesaler Pancis Gems shares stories from his five decades in the industry.
Events & AwardsJul 17, 2026
Gem Awards Opens 2027 Nomination PeriodSubmissions for the milestone 25th annual Gem Awards will be accepted across three categories from now through July 31.
EditorsJul 16, 2026
Q&A: Guzema’s Co-Owners On Its US Expansion, 10-Year AnniversaryValeriya Guzema and Mariana Lenha look back on the last decade and discuss the Ukrainian brand’s first U.S. store.
