Trends

One to Watch: Ilana Ariel

TrendsSep 26, 2016

One to Watch: Ilana Ariel

The subject of this month’s designer feature, Ilana Sarna creates her fine jewelry line with a nod to her family’s rich heritage.

20160926_OnetoWatch_Ilana1.jpg
Ilana Sarna designs her fine jewelry line, Ilana Ariel, with a nod to her family’s rich heritage.

New York--Her designs may be pretty and whimsical, but don’t be fooled--Ilana Sarna creates from a deep place.

In explaining the genesis of her fine jewelry brand, Ilana Ariel, Sarna cites influences as immense as her grandparents’ survival of the Holocaust. After enduring such atrocities, Sarna’s grandparents (and, subsequently, her parents) placed special import on self expression, creating a culture where Sarna was exposed to various art forms from a young age and encouraged to listen to and tell stories through different mediums.

Sarna ultimately decided to express herself, and the story of her heritage, through jewelry design, a decision that took her away from her field of law.

Now, Ilana Ariel represents a mesh of cultures and periods. It’s inspired by Sarna’s home city of New York and adopted city, Tel Aviv, and the idea of creating a tangible link between generations. Like her grandmothers’ jewelry, Sarna designs pieces meant to be worn and passed down to loved ones, expanding the jewelry’s significance along the way.

She recently took the time to chat with National Jeweler about her collection and her process.

National Jeweler: Tell me about your professional background. What brought you to jewelry design?

Ilana Sarna: I started wire wrapping jewelry for fun when I was in high school, but it wasn’t until I studied art therapy at New York University and enrolled in an introductory jewelry making course that I began to really fall in love with jewelry design. Studying the medium on an educational level while simultaneously learning about the power of the creative process in my other courses fostered a new lens through which to view jewelry.

After college, I went to Brooklyn Law School, but realizing being a law student didn’t warrant neglecting other aspects of my life, namely the creative ones, I quickly enrolled in a formal jewelry making class in Manhattan. Monday nights became ritual, spending three consecutive hours getting my hands dirty and scratched up as I learned various techniques such as wax carving, soldering and setting. The result was not only creative refuge from the monotony of law school, but also the fervent desire to pursue jewelry design as a career.

One summer in law school, I developed my skills by apprenticing for an Israeli jewelry designer. I learned how to understand both the aesthetic and functional aspects of jewelry, without which I wouldn’t truly appreciate how to
create innovative yet practical designs.

Upon graduating from law school and taking the bar exam in 2013, I established Ilana Ariel, with the vision of creating intelligently designed jewelry for everyday wear.

NJ: What is the inspiration behind your collection?

IS: I don’t design by season. Instead, I’ve designed and produced four collections to date (Legacy, Ten Eleven, Stepping Stone, and Grounded), each of which has been and will continue to be expanded on every few months. The concepts behind each of my collections are all points of reference on a timeline, so to speak. My first collection, Legacy, is about "where one comes from,” the Ten Eleven collection “where one begins,” and Stepping Stone symbolizes "where one's going." My latest and fourth collection, Grounded, signifies “where one lands.”

The Legacy Collection pays homage to the women who nurtured my creative aspirations. Initially inspired by my late maternal grandmother Ella, the collection has grown into a retrospective of my relatives' styles and jewelry collections. Scalloped edges and circular motifs give the collection a notably nostalgic quality.

The Ten Eleven Collection originates from patterns in a tapestry I found while traveling in Peru. What began as an exploration of shapes developed into a medley of triangles, manipulated to highlight and contrast negative space. Named for my birthday, Oct. 11, and comprised of clean lines, the collection suggests beginnings and is reminiscent of the building blocks necessary for a stable foundation and steady growth.

The Stepping Stone Collection playfully unites mismatched shapes, colors and motifs through a combination of various gems. The jewelry mimics an actual stepping stone path, signifying journeys and endless possibilities, promoting reflection and welcoming the unexpected.

And finally, inspired by the patterns of the Mediterranean tiles found all over the streets of Tel Aviv, the Grounded collection not only imitates the literal ground I stood on, it was also designed during a time I was grounding myself in a new place. This inspiration is materialized through the use of subtly bold and unconventional shapes that exude an effortless Mediterranean vibe.



NJ: Where is your jewelry made?

IS: My jewelry is made on 47th Street in Manhattan, New York.

NJ: What should retailers focus on, or what story should they tell, when showing your line to customers?

IS: Generally speaking, Ilana Ariel is driven by the concept of storytelling through jewelry--both the design process and the product--and here's why:

Artistic expression, a concept that has been instilled in my heart and mind from a very young age, is one of the main forces that has guided me through the past three decades. As a child, I was exposed to heavy subject matters as all four of my grandparents were survivors of the Holocaust. Since my siblings and I were so young, my grandparents and parents used poetry, art and cinema to tell stories of inexplicable horror as well as lessons of perseverance and heroism. So, despite witnessing unimaginable horrors, my grandparents set up a stage where displays of creativity were always ubiquitous. Whether it was listening to my mother, the Julliard alumna, playing piano, watching my grandmother, the novice sculptor, chiseling away at her alabaster, or fancying the newest piece of jewelry crafted by my eccentric great uncle (also a Holocaust survivor), my desire to join the fun was nothing short of impassioned.

In between my piano and art lessons, drawing and painting, and many dance recitals, jewelry remained a constant, as I was surrounded by my two grandmothers’ unique styles and distinguished jewelry collections. I wasn’t making jewelry as much as I was playing with it, but my affinity for jewelry soon became apparent to all who knew me well. I spent middle school and high school accumulating new pieces to add to what I believed was a rare collection of treasures passed down to me by my grandmothers.

When I was an undergraduate studying art therapy at NYU, I began to understand jewelry design in a different light, namely that it’s a means of storytelling, not only for the designer, but also for the person who acquires the piece. The significance and story behind each creation evolves as it’s transferred from one person to the next. To me, that’s a really emboldening function of what I do and probably what I love most about being a jewelry designer.

I grew up seeing how various forms of art can be used to tell stories, sometimes even difficult ones. I wanted to tell my story and, in 2013 I decided that jewelry design would be my platform to do so. Since then, the saying “we are all links in a chain” has been on repeat in my mind. We are all connected to each other, and as a creator, I feel especially inspired by the artists who’ve created before and alongside me. In launching Ilana Ariel, it is now an honor to see how my designs and the stories behind them touch other people’s lives.

NJ: How much inventory must a retailer invest in to carry your brand?

IS: I don’t require a minimum, but I find most retailers agree with me when I suggest that the brand’s story is told best with at least five pieces. Though it’s a small assortment, five pieces is enough to show variety, represent my aesthetic, and cater to customer’s different preferences.

NJ: What retailers are currently carrying your line?

IS: FiveStory, Roseark, Spring, Stephanie Gottlieb, Plan De Ville, Michele Varian, Audry Rose, Market Highland Park, Barbedwire, Hall Collection, Hu’s Wear, and Zaver & Mor.

NJ: What is the price range of your pieces?

IS: They are $155 - $13,000 retail, but the sweet spot is between $1,800 and $5,000.

NJ: At which trade shows do you exhibit or are you planning to exhibit?

IS: I just exhibited at Metal & Smith. It was my first trade show; there was great energy from all the different designers. I had a lot of fun!

NJ: What are your plans for upcoming collections?

IS: I recently launched the Grounded Collection so I am currently focused on enhancing it by adding more color and playing with scale.

NJ: Complete this sentence: “People would be surprised to learn that I …”

IS: Went to law school.
Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

Stock image of a man’s hands in handcuffs
CrimeMay 08, 2025
Former NYC Jewelry Store Employee Arrested in 2017 Choking Death of Boss

Michel Desalles allegedly murdered Omid Gholian inside World of Gold N Diamond using zip ties and then fled the country.

2025 Met Gala jewelry
EditorsMay 08, 2025
5 ‘Superfine’ Met Gala Jewelry Moments

Associate Editor Lauren McLemore shares her favorite looks from a night of style inspired by Black dandyism.

instappraise-1.png
Supplier BulletinMay 08, 2025
Instappraise Introduces Game-Changing Trifold Appraisal Format

Sponsored by Instappraise

antique_Vegas_2024_by_headshot_stories_9454.jpg
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the Globe

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Brilliant Earth three stone Sabine diamond engagement ring
FinancialsMay 08, 2025
Brilliant Earth Notes an Uptick in Engagement Ring Sales in Q1

CEO Beth Gerstein discussed the company’s bridal bestsellers, the potential impact of tariffs, and the rising price of gold.

Weekly QuizMay 08, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Exterior of Margot McKinney Beverly Hills Location
IndependentsMay 08, 2025
Margot McKinney Lands in the U.S. With New Boutique

The brand’s first independent location outside of Australia has opened in Beverly Hills, California.

Cathy Marsh
IndependentsMay 08, 2025
Verragio Announces New Regional Sales Manager

Cathy Marsh will lead the jewelry company’s efforts in the upper Midwest and western United States.

Supplier Spotlight -Recorded-Webinar.png
Brought to you by
Watch: The Winston Red: GIA Examines the Smithsonian’s Newest Addition

Supplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA

Pandora gold and silver charm bracelet
FinancialsMay 07, 2025
Pandora Posts Strong Q1, Plans for Tariffs

The company has multiple strategies for dealing with tariffs, though its CEO said moving manufacturing to the U.S. is not one of them.

Headshot of Smart Age Solutions CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsMay 07, 2025
The Smart Lab: Building a Seasonal Marketing Strategy for Mother’s Day and Beyond

Connecting with your customers throughout the year is key to a successful holiday marketing push.

Gemfields rough emeralds
SourcingMay 07, 2025
Gemfields Says Emerald Sales Improved in Latest Auction

Its commercial-quality emerald sale held last month totaled more than $16 million, up from about $11 million in September 2024.

Logo for “In the Loupe,” Punchmark’s podcast
TechnologyMay 07, 2025
Punchmark’s Latest Podcast Features a Very Special Guest

National Jeweler Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff joined Michael Burpoe to talk tariffs, consumer confidence, and the sky-high price of gold.

Harwell Godfrey Met Gala brooch with Mediterranean Blue diamond
AuctionsMay 06, 2025
Harwell Godfrey Reimagines 10-Carat Blue Diamond for Met Gala-Ready Brooch

Designer Lauren Harwell Godfrey made the piece as an homage to the 2025 gala’s theme, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.”

Jewelers of America 20 Under 40 for 2025
Events & AwardsMay 06, 2025
Here’s Who Made Jewelers of America’s New ‘20 Under 40’ List

Expanded this year to include suppliers, JA’s 2025 list honors 40 up-and-coming professionals in the jewelry industry.

Sissys Log Cabin Fort Smith Arkansas
IndependentsMay 06, 2025
Sissy's Log Cabin Opens New Store

Located in Fort Smith, it’s the Mid-South jeweler’s first store in Northwest Arkansas.

Gunderson’s Jewelers
IndependentsMay 06, 2025
Gunderson’s Jewelers to Be Featured on ‘World’s Greatest’ TV Series

The episode about the family-owned jeweler will premiere May 17.

Zadok Jewelers Austin store
IndependentsMay 05, 2025
Zadok Jewelers Opens Store in Austin

The Houston-based jeweler’s new 11,000-square-foot showroom will include a Rolex boutique.

Nancy Astor Cartier turquoise and diamond tiara
AuctionsMay 05, 2025
Nancy Astor’s Cartier Tiara Heads to Auction

The turquoise and diamond tiara hasn’t been on the market since it was purchased by Lord Astor in 1930.

David DeCook Crater of Diamonds State Park 3.81-carat brown Duke Diamond
SourcingMay 05, 2025
Crater of Diamonds Yields 4-Carat Brown Diamond

“The Duke Diamond” is the largest diamond registered at the Arkansas park so far this year.

Angely Martinez emerald Promise ring
CollectionsMay 02, 2025
Piece of the Week: Angely Martinez’s Emerald Promise Ring

Set with May’s birthstone and featuring an earthworm, this ring is a perfect celebration of spring.

Stuller 2025-2026 bridal catalog
MajorsMay 02, 2025
Stuller’s New Bridal Catalog Is Here

“Bridal 2025–2026” includes popular styles and a dedicated section for quick pricing references of lab-grown diamond bridal jewelry.

Americut Gems
SourcingMay 01, 2025
Tariffs & Colored Gemstones: Relying on Stock, Considering the Ripple Effect

Though currently paused, high tariffs threaten many countries where gemstones are mined. Dealers are taking measures now to prepare.

Exterior of new David Yurman store in the Miami Design District
MajorsMay 01, 2025
Peek Inside David Yurman’s New Miami Flagship Store

Located in Miami’s Design District, the 4,000-square-foot store is an homage to David and Sybil Yurman’s artistic roots.

Jewelers of America logo
MajorsMay 01, 2025
Jewelers of America Opens Applications for 2025 Scholarships

The deadline to apply for the Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship is June 12.

Stock image of an empty clothing store
SurveysApr 30, 2025
Consumer Confidence Hits Pandemic-Level Low Amid Tariff Concerns

What’s really worrying U.S. consumers isn’t the present situation; it’s what the economy is going to look like six months from now.

2025 Instore Jewelry Show Graphic
Events & AwardsApr 30, 2025
Instore Show Debuts New Name, Look, and Focus

Now called The Instore Jewelry Show, it will include holiday-focused education, interactive workshops, and a window display contest.

GemWorld GemGuide logo
SourcingApr 30, 2025
GemGuide Has a New Pricing Chart for Colombian Emeralds

It includes pricing for unenhanced Colombian emeralds in the fine to extra fine range.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy