This year’s honorees include a Midwest retailer and two multi-store independents, one in New York and the other in New England.
French court sides with Van Cleef in designer case
France’s highest court has upheld a ruling mandating that pieces created by full-time employees of jewelry firms belong to the firms themselves and are not the property of the individual designer, a ruling being called “very decisive” for French luxury goods companies.
Paris--France’s highest court has upheld a ruling mandating that pieces created by full-time employees of jewelry firms belong to the firms themselves and are not the property of the individual designer, a ruling being called “very decisive” for French luxury goods companies.
On Thursday, the Court of Cassation in Paris backed the September 2012 decision of the Court of Appeals, which said that Van Cleef & Arpels was the owner of the intellectual property rights for the drawings used to create jewels under its name. The designs, according to the ruling, are not the intellectual property of the individual designer who created them.
Thierry Berthelot, a former designer at Van Cleef & Arpels, initiated the case in 2005 in an attempt to claim rights over the designs he drew while working at the French jewelry house, arguing that there was no assignment of rights clause in his employment contract, according to a statement provided by Vincent Fauchoux, the Paris-based attorney who represented Van Cleef & Arpels in the case.
Initially, a Parisian trial court ruled against Berthelot but he appealed that decision to the Court of Appeals, where lost again. He then brought his case to the French equivalent of the Supreme Court.
The Court of Cassation confirmed the ruling of the Paris Court of Appeals, acknowledging that Berthelot couldn’t claim intellectual property rights on the drawings because they were part of a “collective effort,” and that he was inspired by Van Cleef & Arpels’ archives and heritage, and was obliged to follow the aesthetic instructions of his superiors, according to the statement.
Fauchoux called the high court’s ruling “very decisive,” because it outlines the concept of collective works under French law with a “high level of accuracy” and secures the intellectual property rights of companies such as Van Cleef & Arpels.
Neither Berthelot nor his attorney, Emmanuel Gouesse, responded to request for comment on the high court’s ruling.
While the Court of Cassation is the highest court in France, the eight-year legal battle between the two parties isn’t over quite yet.
According to Women’s Wear Daily, the Court of Cassation did not rule on an earlier decision by the Court of Appeals to fine Berthelot 10,000 Euros ($13,600 in today’s dollars) for withholding his drawings throughout the entire court case. That matter is headed back down to the Court of Appeals.
The Latest

As an homage to iconic crochet blankets, the necklace features the nostalgic motif through a kaleidoscope of cabochon-cut stones.

Discover the dozen up-and-coming brands exhibiting in the Design Atelier for the first time.

When investing in your jewelry business, it's important not to overlook the most crucial element of success: the sales associates.

The “Royal Ruby” Collection is a quintet of untreated rubies curated by collector Jack Abraham.


The entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.

Two existing executives have been given new roles.

More shoppers are walking out without buying. Here’s how smart jewelers can bring them back—and the tool they need to do it right.

Meredith Tiderington, an electrical engineering student, was selected for the award.

It will quit assigning the stones specific color and clarity grades in favor of applying “new descriptive terminology.”

From design trends to sustainability, here’s a roundup of can’t-miss education sessions at JCK Las Vegas.

The Jewelers’ Security Alliance offers advice for those attending the annual trade shows.

Her new role is director of strategic initiatives.

The designer is embracing bold pieces with weight to them in “AU79,” a collection she celebrated with a creative launch party.

On an earnings call, CEO J.K. Symancyk discussed what’s working for the company and how it’s preparing for the potential impact of tariffs.

The index partially rebounded after months of decline, due in part to the U.S.-China deal to temporarily reduce import tariffs.

The actress stars in the latest campaign set in Venice, Italy, and is set to participate in other creative initiatives for the jeweler.

The company has joined other labs, including GIA and Lotus Gemology, in adopting the Chinese term for "jadeite jade."

The large stone will be offered at its June sale along with a selection of secondary-type rubies from a new area of the Montepuez mine.

Located in Bangkok, the laboratory is Gemological Science International’s 14th location worldwide.

Those born in June have a myriad of options for their birthstone jewelry.

The diamond industry veteran has been named its senior sales executive.

The company plans to raise the prices of select watches to offset the impact of tariffs.

Designed by founder Renato and his daughter Serena Cipullo, it showcases a flame motif representing unity and the power of gathering.

The pop icon is one step closer to launching her “B Tiny” jewelry collection, a collection she first began posting about last fall.

Sponsored by Stuller

It was featured in the miner’s latest sale, which brought in $24.8 million.