Majors

How the Coronavirus Is Impacting the Jewelry Industry

MajorsFeb 13, 2020

How the Coronavirus Is Impacting the Jewelry Industry

Pandora, LVMH and Kering execs reflect on the ripple effects of the outbreak as sales continue to dip.

20200213_Chow_Tai_Fook_Store.jpg
A Chow Tai Fook store in China (Image courtesy of Wikimedia Commons/Wpcpey)

New York—Global health officials estimate the coronavirus outbreak is responsible for 1,300 deaths worldwide as of Thursday, and its effects are rippling through the global economy.

The current outbreak originated in the Wuhan province of China with symptoms similar to the common cold, like fever and cough, but more severe symptoms can develop, such as severe acute respiratory syndrome and kidney failure.

There are more than 60,000 confirmed cases, which have spread from mainland China to 25 other countries and territories.

As the casualty count rises, areas of China have been on lockdown and additional screening measures are underway in airports worldwide in an attempt to contain the virus.

The disease is impacting industries worldwide, including luxury brands, which depend heavily on Chinese consumers today. Investment group Jefferies estimated Chinese buyers made up about 40 percent of the €281 billion ($306 billion) spent on luxury goods worldwide in 2019 and drove 80 percent of the growth, as per a report from the Financial Times.

Here’s how the outbreak, which started at the end of December, has affected the luxury industry so far.

Trade Shows
In an effort to contain the outbreak, jewelry trade show organizers are moving and canceling shows, and taking extra precautions for those events scheduled to go on as planned.

The Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl show and the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, both scheduled for March, have been moved to May.

The AEC Gems & Jewelry Presidents’ Summit, which is held by the Hong Kong Jewellery & Jade Manufacturers Associations, has been postponed as well to a soon-to-be-announced date.

Swatch cancelled its “Time to Move” event, scheduled for late February/early March in Zurich, Switzerland, in order to “prevent their partners from travelling internationally in an insecure climate.”

And Alrosa announced last week that it would be relocating its March auction of special-size rough diamonds from Hong Kong to Moscow.

In contrast, the organizers of the upcoming Bangkok trade show will not be changing their plans because of the outbreak.

The 65th Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair, scheduled for Feb. 25-29 at the Impact, will go on as scheduled.

In a letter shared with National Jeweler, Somdet Susomboon, director general of Thailand’s Department of International Trade Promotion, outlined what the country is doing, and will do, to ensure visitors’ health and safety during the show.

Precautions include installing thermal scanners and infrared thermometers to identify potentially infected people; spraying disinfectant at the fairgrounds;

providing hand sanitizer at all entrances, toilets and meetings rooms; providing masks; and setting up a coronavirus screening unit.

Outside of the jewelry world, the Formula 1 Chinese Grand Prix in Shanghai and Olympic qualifier events have been postponed as well.

Pandora
Pandora suffered a rough fourth quarter as sales in China showed continued weakness.

In an interview with Reuters, CEO Alexander Lacik said the Danish jeweler has seen an “unprecedented” drop in business in China as a result of the coronavirus.

“As I sit here and watch the Chinese business, it is in a standstill mode; I mean there’s pennies being sold,” he said.

Lacik said 70 of its 240 stores in China have been closed by order of the government and customer traffic at its open stores “is next to none.”

“For Pandora, as well as many retailers with a presence in China and Hong Kong, the outlook for the year depends greatly on how the coronavirus epidemic unfolds and, of course, whether cases start to ramp up in Europe and the U.S. where, up to now, cases have been few,” Nigel Frith, a senior market analyst at AskTraders.com, noted in an email to National Jeweler.

Looking to the year ahead, Pandora expects like-for-like sales to remain in the red with organic growth also decreasing.

LVMH
LVMH ended the year on a strong note, posting double-digit revenue growth even as protests in Hong Kong weighed on the second half of its fiscal year.

The company’s brand portfolio includes Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Bulgari and Hublot.

CEO Bernard Arnault addressed the potential impact of the coronavirus on China, a key market across all sectors, in an interview with reporters following the results.

Arnault said Chinese authorities told him the peak of the virus is expected to pass within weeks and the situation is expected to settle down by the end of March.

“If it dies out in two months or two months and a half, it’s not terrible. If it takes two years, that’s a different story,” he said.

LVMH said it is “cautiously confident” about the new year, citing “an uncertain geopolitical context.”

Kering
Kering, the luxury titan behind brands like Gucci and Balenciaga, posted strong results in its quarterly report Wednesday.

The company reported double-digit revenue growth overall in its fourth quarter and full year as well as in its jewelry houses, which include Boucheron and Pomellato.

On an earnings call, CEO François-Henri Pinault said the environment in China had “changed significantly” in the wake of the coronavirus outbreak.

He said about half its stores in the country are closed and those that remain open have seen a slowdown in traffic and shortened operating hours, leading to a “strong drop” in sales.

Events, product launches and store openings have been postponed in the area while inventory is being moved out of the country to other regions.

“Due to the evolving nature of the situation, it is impossible at this time to fully evaluate the impact on our businesses and how fast they will recover,” he said.

Kering did not provide guidance for 2020 but said it “remains confident” in its growth potential.

“The underlying strength of the business bodes well for the second half,” Jefferies analyst Flavio Cereda told the Financial Times, but noted that more information on China is needed.

Gold
Gold jewelry sales in China are expected to sink this year as a result of the coronavirus outbreak.

“People are not in the mood to shop for jewelry,” Zhang Yongtao, chief executive officer of the China Gold Association, said in an interview with Bloomberg.

Yongtao said he expects the sales of gold jewelry and bars to drop substantially this year.

“We have seen in China, particularly over the Lunar New Year, empty streets and deserted shopping malls. Quite simply, people don’t want to be in public spaces unnecessarily for fear of contagion,” noted Frith, the AskTraders.com analyst.

He added that if cases were to emerge in the U.K., whose economy is already fragile due to Brexit uncertainty, a similar slowdown in spending would arise there.

Research firm Metals Focus forecast a 6 percent decline in gold jewelry sales in China this year, but said it would “not be surprised if that projection proves too optimistic.”

The drop in jewelry sales may be particularly sharp as the outbreak has disrupted Chinese New Year, which is usually the busiest period for gold sales.

In addition, a slowing economy and weak growth in disposable income translates to less money for consumers to spend on discretionary items, like jewelry.

The report noted that even before the outbreak, the jewelry industry was facing headwinds, including weak consumer sentiment, a shift to smaller designs, and a sharp rise in gold prices, which could continue.

Investors tend to favor safe-haven assets like gold during periods of uncertainty, so if the outbreak were to develop into a pandemic, it may push up gold prices considerably

From a manufacturing standpoint, the Hong Kong Jewelry Manufacturers’ Association told Bloomberg that operating efficiency at Chinese factories may be around 20 to 30 percent as workers remain at home.

The association expressed concern about orders from mainland China dropping.

“In my 40 years in the jewelry industry, I have never seen the entire Chinese market ground to a halt like now,” said Chairman Benny Do.

Do estimated that retailers’ sales volumes of gold jewelry may decline 70 percent year-over-year in the first quarter.

Health experts recently convened at the World Health Organization’s Geneva headquarters for a two-day forum to strategize on how to stop the coronavirus outbreak and prevent another in the future.

“This outbreak is a test of solidarity—political, financial and scientific. We need to come together to fight a common enemy that does not respect borders, ensure that we have the resources necessary to bring this outbreak to an end and bring our best science to the forefront to find shared answers to shared problems,” WHO Director-General Dr. Tedros Adhanom Ghebreyesus said in a statement.
Lenore Fedowis the senior editor, news at National Jeweler, covering the retail beat and the business side of jewelry.

The Latest

Movado Connect 2.0 watches
FinancialsNov 26, 2025
Movado CEO Talks Tariffs, Growing Interest in Accessible Luxury Watches

During its Q3 call, CEO Efraim Grinberg discussed the deal to lower tariffs on Swiss-made watches, watch market trends, and more.

Rosior Pumpkin Ring
TrendsNov 26, 2025
Piece of the Week: Rosior’s Pumpkin Ring

Rosior’s high jewelry cocktail ring with orange sapphires and green diamonds is the perfect Thanksgiving accessory.

Greenwich St. Jewelers Embrace Your True Colors Holiday Campaign
IndependentsNov 26, 2025
Greenwich St. Jewelers Launches Colorful Holiday Campaign

The “Embrace Your True Colors” campaign features jewels with a vibrant color palette and poetry by Grammy-nominated artist Aja Monet.

Recipients Collage 2025 - NJ (1872 x 1050 px) (1872 x 1052 px).png
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow Today

How Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.

Grandview Klein scholarships
Events & AwardsNov 26, 2025
Grandview Klein Presents 4 Scholarships in Namibia

The company gave awards to four students at the Namibia University of Science & Technology, including one who is a Grandview Klein employee.

Weekly QuizNov 20, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Margaret “Maggie” Hoisik
IndependentsNov 25, 2025
Pearl Stringer Margaret Hoisik Dies

She is remembered as an artist who loved her craft and was devoted to her faith, her friends, and her family.

Finestar manufacturing
SourcingNov 25, 2025
Finestar Opens Diamond Manufacturing Facility in Johannesburg

It joins the company’s other manufacturing facilities globally, including in India, Botswana, and Namibia.

roseco-catalog.png
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line Catalog

Roseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.

State Property Toadstool Pendant
TrendsNov 25, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Polka Dots

The polka dot pattern transcends time and has re-emerged as a trend in jewelry through round-shaped gemstones.

Stock image of gavel and books
CrimeNov 25, 2025
Former Arizona AG Official Charged With Trafficking Stolen Jewelry

Vanessa Hickman, 49, allegedly sold a diamond bracelet that was mistakenly sent to her home.

GIA executives John Koivula, Kathryn Kimmel, Susan Jacques, Tom Moses, Alice Keller, James E. Shigley
Events & AwardsNov 25, 2025
GIA Awards Susan Jacques With Its Highest Honor

GIA’s former president and CEO was presented with the Richard T. Liddicoat Award for Distinguished Achievement.

20251124_MNQ social media etiquette header.jpg
Recorded WebinarsNov 24, 2025
Watch: Top Tips for Social Media Etiquette

Social media experts spoke about protecting brand reputation through behaving mindfully online.

Breitling house of brands
WatchesNov 24, 2025
Breitling Reveals Plans for Gallet, Universal Genève

In 2026, the three will come together as “House of Brands,” with Gallet sold in Breitling stores and Universal Genève sold separately.

Cynthia Erivo in Muse’s Have a Heart x Cynthia Erivo Collection
CollectionsNov 24, 2025
Muse Debuts a Wicked 'Have a Heart x Cynthia Erivo' Sequel

The second drop, which includes more Elphaba-inspired pieces from additional designers, will continue to benefit nonprofit Dreams of Hope.

J.R. Dunn Jewelers employees
IndependentsNov 24, 2025
J.R. Dunn Jewelers Names New President

Second-generation jeweler Sean Dunn has taken on the role.

Origin De Beers Group logo
SourcingNov 21, 2025
De Beers’ Branded, Traceable Diamonds Roll Out to 19 Retailers

Called “Origin by De Beers Group,” the loose, polished diamonds are being sold in a total of 30 stores in the United States and Canada.

Melissa Kaye Rocky Infinity Emerald Necklace
CollectionsNov 21, 2025
Piece of the Week: Melissa Kaye’s ‘Rocky Infinity’ Necklace

The lariat necklace features a 4.88-carat oval-cut Zambian emerald in 18-karat yellow gold.

Phillips auction of The Vanderbilt Sapphire brooch
AuctionsNov 20, 2025
Vanderbilt Jewels Shine at Phillips Sale, Pink Diamond Withdrawn

A 43-carat sapphire brooch from the Vanderbilt collection was the top lot of the Geneva sale.

Rebecca Rau Jewels Green Flame Necklace
CollectionsNov 20, 2025
Rebecca Rau Jewels Debuts With ‘Then & Now’ Collection

Rau is a fourth-generation art and antique dealer from M.S. Rau gallery whose first jewelry collection merges artifacts with modern design.

Purvi Shah
Policies & IssuesNov 20, 2025
RJC Names New Executive Director

Former De Beers sustainability leader Purvi Shah will take over the role in February 2026.

La Joux-Perret manufacturing facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland
WatchesNov 20, 2025
LVMH Takes Minority Stake in Citizen Group-Owned Movement Maker

La Joux-Perret is based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, and makes solar quartz as well as mechanical watch movements.

Julia Griffith
GradingNov 20, 2025
Julia Griffith Joins SSEF as Head of Education

She previously taught at Gem-A and is the founder of The Gem Academy.

Helena Bonham Carter in Larkspur & Hawk Once Upon a Time Campaign
CollectionsNov 19, 2025
Larkspur & Hawk Celebrates 25 Years With Helena Bonham Carter Campaign

The British actress and her daughter modeled pieces from the brand’s new “Palette” capsule for its “Once Upon a Time” holiday campaign.

Google reviews on a phone screen and a laptop
TechnologyNov 19, 2025
Google Has a New Form for Reporting ‘Review Bombing’ Attacks

Plus, the tech giant shares the steps retailers should take if they believe they’re a victim of a review extortion scam.

Shaftel Diamonds logo and jeweler’s bench
IndependentsNov 19, 2025
Houston Jeweler Keith Shaftel Retires, Next Generation Steps In

Danny and Gaby Shaftel are now Shaftel Diamonds’ CEO and chief operating officer, respectively.

Midas chain mini studs
TrendsNov 19, 2025
Midas Chain Releases 2025 Holiday Style Guide

The jewelry manufacturer’s seasonal offering features its new “Melodie” bangles, as well as mini stud earrings and layering pieces.

Jewelry from NYC Jewelry Week 2024
Events & AwardsNov 18, 2025
NYC Jewelry Week 2025: 12 Must-See Events

With more than 140 activations taking place in New York City now through Nov. 23, these 12 events are can’t-miss moments.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy