Majors

How the Coronavirus Is Impacting the Jewelry Industry

MajorsFeb 13, 2020

How the Coronavirus Is Impacting the Jewelry Industry

Pandora, LVMH and Kering execs reflect on the ripple effects of the outbreak as sales continue to dip.

20200213_Chow_Tai_Fook_Store.jpg
A Chow Tai Fook store in China (Image courtesy of Wikimedia Commons/Wpcpey)

New York—Global health officials estimate the coronavirus outbreak is responsible for 1,300 deaths worldwide as of Thursday, and its effects are rippling through the global economy.

The current outbreak originated in the Wuhan province of China with symptoms similar to the common cold, like fever and cough, but more severe symptoms can develop, such as severe acute respiratory syndrome and kidney failure.

There are more than 60,000 confirmed cases, which have spread from mainland China to 25 other countries and territories.

As the casualty count rises, areas of China have been on lockdown and additional screening measures are underway in airports worldwide in an attempt to contain the virus.

The disease is impacting industries worldwide, including luxury brands, which depend heavily on Chinese consumers today. Investment group Jefferies estimated Chinese buyers made up about 40 percent of the €281 billion ($306 billion) spent on luxury goods worldwide in 2019 and drove 80 percent of the growth, as per a report from the Financial Times.

Here’s how the outbreak, which started at the end of December, has affected the luxury industry so far.

Trade Shows
In an effort to contain the outbreak, jewelry trade show organizers are moving and canceling shows, and taking extra precautions for those events scheduled to go on as planned.

The Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl show and the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, both scheduled for March, have been moved to May.

The AEC Gems & Jewelry Presidents’ Summit, which is held by the Hong Kong Jewellery & Jade Manufacturers Associations, has been postponed as well to a soon-to-be-announced date.

Swatch cancelled its “Time to Move” event, scheduled for late February/early March in Zurich, Switzerland, in order to “prevent their partners from travelling internationally in an insecure climate.”

And Alrosa announced last week that it would be relocating its March auction of special-size rough diamonds from Hong Kong to Moscow.

In contrast, the organizers of the upcoming Bangkok trade show will not be changing their plans because of the outbreak.

The 65th Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair, scheduled for Feb. 25-29 at the Impact, will go on as scheduled.

In a letter shared with National Jeweler, Somdet Susomboon, director general of Thailand’s Department of International Trade Promotion, outlined what the country is doing, and will do, to ensure visitors’ health and safety during the show.

Precautions include installing thermal scanners and infrared thermometers to identify potentially infected people; spraying disinfectant at the fairgrounds;

providing hand sanitizer at all entrances, toilets and meetings rooms; providing masks; and setting up a coronavirus screening unit.

Outside of the jewelry world, the Formula 1 Chinese Grand Prix in Shanghai and Olympic qualifier events have been postponed as well.

Pandora
Pandora suffered a rough fourth quarter as sales in China showed continued weakness.

In an interview with Reuters, CEO Alexander Lacik said the Danish jeweler has seen an “unprecedented” drop in business in China as a result of the coronavirus.

“As I sit here and watch the Chinese business, it is in a standstill mode; I mean there’s pennies being sold,” he said.

Lacik said 70 of its 240 stores in China have been closed by order of the government and customer traffic at its open stores “is next to none.”

“For Pandora, as well as many retailers with a presence in China and Hong Kong, the outlook for the year depends greatly on how the coronavirus epidemic unfolds and, of course, whether cases start to ramp up in Europe and the U.S. where, up to now, cases have been few,” Nigel Frith, a senior market analyst at AskTraders.com, noted in an email to National Jeweler.

Looking to the year ahead, Pandora expects like-for-like sales to remain in the red with organic growth also decreasing.

LVMH
LVMH ended the year on a strong note, posting double-digit revenue growth even as protests in Hong Kong weighed on the second half of its fiscal year.

The company’s brand portfolio includes Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Bulgari and Hublot.

CEO Bernard Arnault addressed the potential impact of the coronavirus on China, a key market across all sectors, in an interview with reporters following the results.

Arnault said Chinese authorities told him the peak of the virus is expected to pass within weeks and the situation is expected to settle down by the end of March.

“If it dies out in two months or two months and a half, it’s not terrible. If it takes two years, that’s a different story,” he said.

LVMH said it is “cautiously confident” about the new year, citing “an uncertain geopolitical context.”

Kering
Kering, the luxury titan behind brands like Gucci and Balenciaga, posted strong results in its quarterly report Wednesday.

The company reported double-digit revenue growth overall in its fourth quarter and full year as well as in its jewelry houses, which include Boucheron and Pomellato.

On an earnings call, CEO François-Henri Pinault said the environment in China had “changed significantly” in the wake of the coronavirus outbreak.

He said about half its stores in the country are closed and those that remain open have seen a slowdown in traffic and shortened operating hours, leading to a “strong drop” in sales.

Events, product launches and store openings have been postponed in the area while inventory is being moved out of the country to other regions.

“Due to the evolving nature of the situation, it is impossible at this time to fully evaluate the impact on our businesses and how fast they will recover,” he said.

Kering did not provide guidance for 2020 but said it “remains confident” in its growth potential.

“The underlying strength of the business bodes well for the second half,” Jefferies analyst Flavio Cereda told the Financial Times, but noted that more information on China is needed.

Gold
Gold jewelry sales in China are expected to sink this year as a result of the coronavirus outbreak.

“People are not in the mood to shop for jewelry,” Zhang Yongtao, chief executive officer of the China Gold Association, said in an interview with Bloomberg.

Yongtao said he expects the sales of gold jewelry and bars to drop substantially this year.

“We have seen in China, particularly over the Lunar New Year, empty streets and deserted shopping malls. Quite simply, people don’t want to be in public spaces unnecessarily for fear of contagion,” noted Frith, the AskTraders.com analyst.

He added that if cases were to emerge in the U.K., whose economy is already fragile due to Brexit uncertainty, a similar slowdown in spending would arise there.

Research firm Metals Focus forecast a 6 percent decline in gold jewelry sales in China this year, but said it would “not be surprised if that projection proves too optimistic.”

The drop in jewelry sales may be particularly sharp as the outbreak has disrupted Chinese New Year, which is usually the busiest period for gold sales.

In addition, a slowing economy and weak growth in disposable income translates to less money for consumers to spend on discretionary items, like jewelry.

The report noted that even before the outbreak, the jewelry industry was facing headwinds, including weak consumer sentiment, a shift to smaller designs, and a sharp rise in gold prices, which could continue.

Investors tend to favor safe-haven assets like gold during periods of uncertainty, so if the outbreak were to develop into a pandemic, it may push up gold prices considerably

From a manufacturing standpoint, the Hong Kong Jewelry Manufacturers’ Association told Bloomberg that operating efficiency at Chinese factories may be around 20 to 30 percent as workers remain at home.

The association expressed concern about orders from mainland China dropping.

“In my 40 years in the jewelry industry, I have never seen the entire Chinese market ground to a halt like now,” said Chairman Benny Do.

Do estimated that retailers’ sales volumes of gold jewelry may decline 70 percent year-over-year in the first quarter.

Health experts recently convened at the World Health Organization’s Geneva headquarters for a two-day forum to strategize on how to stop the coronavirus outbreak and prevent another in the future.

“This outbreak is a test of solidarity—political, financial and scientific. We need to come together to fight a common enemy that does not respect borders, ensure that we have the resources necessary to bring this outbreak to an end and bring our best science to the forefront to find shared answers to shared problems,” WHO Director-General Dr. Tedros Adhanom Ghebreyesus said in a statement.
Lenore Fedowis the associate editor, news at National Jeweler, covering the retail beat and the business side of jewelry.

The Latest

Benjamin Clymer and the Porsche Design x Hodinkee limited-edition watch
WatchesOct 04, 2024
Watches of Switzerland Clocks Another Acquisition—Hodinkee

The company said Benjamin Clymer will return to his role as head of the watch news website, which will maintain editorial independence.

Ray Griffiths Double Headed Snake Ring
CollectionsOct 04, 2024
Piece of the Week: Ray Griffiths’ ‘Double Headed Snake’ Ring

Slither into spooky season with this scary snake ring that boasts two heads with tsavorite eyes.

 Hurricane Helene
Policies & IssuesOct 03, 2024
RJO, CERF+ Join Those Offering Hurricane Helene Relief to Affected Jewelers

Plus, how to apply for emergency funds and donate to recovery efforts.

Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Enhance Your Expertise with IGI’s In-Person Courses in NYC

This fall, sharpen your skills in jewelry grading, quality control and diamond assessment.

Forevermark store Mumbai India
SourcingOct 03, 2024
How India Became the World’s Second-Largest Market for Diamond Jewelry

A strong economy, a growing middle class with an affinity for brands, and rapid expansion of organized retail have fueled the market’s rise.

Weekly QuizOct 03, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Stock image of police cars with lights on
CrimeOct 03, 2024
Man Who Shared Spoils of $2.7M Smash-and-Grab on Social Media Pleads Guilty to Robbery Charge

Ladell Tharpe, 39, took part in a 2022 jewelry store robbery and then posted pictures of cash on Instagram with the text “Robbery Gang.”

Pandora chief marketing officer Berta de Pablos-Barbier
MajorsOct 03, 2024
Pandora Names 3rd CMO in Past 5 Years

New Chief Marketing Officer Berta de Pablos-Barbier has worked for LVMH’s champagne brands and Kering-owned Boucheron.

1872x1052-Brought-to-you-By-Article-Image-Top (1).png
Brought to you by
Why You Can't Miss JA New York This Fall

Don't miss this one-stop-shop in October, curated with buyers’ needs in mind.

Assael earrings
TrendsOct 03, 2024
Amanda’s Style File: October’s Arrival

Transition to fall with this month’s birthstones of opal and tourmaline.

Dame Shirley Bassey’s
AuctionsOct 03, 2024
Dame Shirley Bassey’s Diamonds Are Ready for Their Encore

Sotheby’s will auction jewelry belonging to the “Diamonds Are Forever” singer Oct. 10 in Paris.

New Lightbox campaign with Emma Breschi
Lab-GrownOct 02, 2024
Lightbox Continues as a Brand, While Supplies Last?

The De Beers-owned lab-grown diamond company is rebranding and creating new collections, though its long-term future remains unclear.

Jane Goodall Brilliant Earth Campaign
CollectionsOct 02, 2024
Brilliant Earth Debuts Jane Goodall Collection

The collection is part of the retailer’s new “Rethink Everything You Know About Diamonds” campaign.

Tom Brady and his diamond-set Audemars Piguet Royal Oak watch
AuctionsOct 02, 2024
The GOAT’s Stash: Watches Owned by Tom Brady Going Up for Auction

The sale includes the custom-made, diamond-set Audemars Piguet watch the QB wore for Netflix’s “The Roast of Tom Brady.”

Armenian Jewellers Association logo
Events & AwardsOct 02, 2024
AJA’s Design Competition Now Accepting Entries

The Armenian Jewellers Association is hosting its design competition for the second year, with winners showcasing at GemGenève in May 2025.

Retiring Signet Jewelers CEO Gina Drosos
MajorsOct 01, 2024
Signet Jewelers CEO Gina Drosos to Retire

The jewelry retailer has named her successor and also will expand the role of Chief Financial Officer Joan Hilson.

Woman wearing many rings
MajorsOct 01, 2024
Kay Jewelers to Revamp Brand

The Signet Jewelers-owned banner has a new campaign and plans for store redesigns.

JV Insardi Solar Campaign
CollectionsOct 01, 2024
JV Insardi Inspires Curiosity in New Collection

Creative Director Jen Insardi brings a new take on classic gold bead designs to her “Solar” collection.

Glenn Douglass Oklahoma Jewelers Association
IndependentsOct 01, 2024
Oklahoma Jewelers Association Grants Lifetime Achievement Award

The recipient, Glenn Douglass, also was inducted into the OJA Hall of Fame.

Stuller 2024 Milestone Anniversary Banquet
MajorsOct 01, 2024
Stuller Celebrates Long-Serving Employees

The manufacturer recognized several team members at its 2024 Milestone Anniversary Banquet.

Oscar Heyman emerald ring
AuctionsSep 30, 2024
Oscar Heyman Jewels, Paraíba Pieces Shine at Bonhams Auction

The single-owner collection sale, which took place in New York last week, achieved $4.8 million, with almost every lot finding a buyer.

Yvonne Leon Noeud Ring
TrendsSep 30, 2024
Amanda’s Style File: Dainty Delights

While statement pieces always shine, it’s time for everyday staples to be the star of the show.

Jewelers of America Fly-In
Policies & IssuesSep 30, 2024
JA Fly-In to DC Focuses on Russian Diamonds, Retail Crime

Jewelers of America leadership and members recently headed to D.C. to share the industry’s top concerns with lawmakers.

Graphic with headshots for My Next Question 2024 holiday season
Recorded WebinarsSep 27, 2024
Watch: Prepare to Shine This Holiday Season

Three members of JA's 2024 "20 Under 40" class join Amanda Gizzi and Lauren McLemore to share their tips for seasonal retail success.

Lalaounis Archaeological Revival Necklace
CollectionsSep 27, 2024
Piece of the Week: Lalaounis’ Necklace is an Archaeological Revival

The necklace, inspired by ancient artifacts, celebrates strength, endurance, and the natural world.

Woman wearing Rocksbox jewelry
MajorsSep 27, 2024
Signet-Owned E-Tailer Rocksbox to Launch on Amazon

Rocksbox is the first banner owned by Signet to sell its jewelry through the retail giant.

Black and white image of Bulova clock
EditorsSep 26, 2024
This New Bulova Documentary Is Perfect for History Buffs Like Me

“America Telling Time: 150 Years of Bulova” dives into the watchmaker’s storied past, from its ad campaigns to the first women’s wristwatch.

Marco Bicego Masai Campaign
CollectionsSep 26, 2024
Marco Bicego Adds Stackable Designs to Masai Collection

The new additions include flat coil rings, bracelets, and necklaces designed to layer elegantly.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy