Majors

These Rings Were Tracked Through Blockchain

MajorsMay 03, 2018

These Rings Were Tracked Through Blockchain

The diamond engagement rings are the product of an initiative called TrustChain, the result of a collaboration between a group of jewelry companies and IBM.

20180503_TrustChain-header.jpg
This is one of the six TrustChain engagement ring styles, all of which feature 14-karat white or yellow gold mined in South Dakota and diamonds from Rio Tinto. The ring will be sold at select Helzberg Diamonds stores beginning this fall.
New York—A group of Berkshire Hathaway-owned jewelry companies has partnered with UL, IBM and Asahi Refining to produce what they say is the first cross-industry initiative to produce finished pieces of jewelry traced from mine to market using blockchain.

The initiative, announced last week, is called TrustChain and is being launched with six gold and diamond engagement rings tracked via the IBM Blockchain Platform, which is delivered via the IBM Cloud.

Blockchains are digital ledgers that are decentralized, meaning they exist across multiple computers and servers; they’re not housed on any one computer or server, or owned by any one user or organization.

They are used by companies or groups of companies to record the history of transactions in a manner said to be more secure and allow for complete transparency. Transactions are recorded as individual “blocks” that are then “chained” together to show the complete record of transactions.

Each blockchain, whether it’s for UPS, Walmart or British Airways, is accessible only by permitted parties, and each block must be validated by the parties before it is added to the digital ledger.

De Beers is working with Boston Consulting Group on a blockchain initiative for tracing diamonds from mine to market, while Gübelin Gem Lab has partnered with Everledger to develop one for colored gemstones.

The TrustChain initiative, however, is the only one so far for a finished piece of jewelry with multiple components.

Mark Hanna, chief marketing officer for The Richline Group, which is manufacturing and distributing the initial TrustChain rings, said the initiative is important for the industry as it seeks to “raise the collective responsibility and provenance practices to new heights.”

The diamonds provided for the proof of concept came from Rio Tinto’s mines in Australia and Canada, and the gold from the Coeur Wharf Mine in South Dakota.

The raw gold was processed and refined at Asahi Refining in Salt Lake City, Utah, with LeachGarner transforming the gold bars into 14-karat white and yellow gold casting grain and sending it to Richline’s manufacturing facility in India. 

The finished rings were returned to the United States via the Richline distribution center in Florida before being shipped to North Kansas City, Missouri-based Helzberg Diamonds. (Richline, LeachGarner and Helzberg are all owned by Berkshire Hathaway, Warren Buffett’s holding company.)

UL provided third-party verification of each transaction along the way.

Hanna said while they started with Canadian diamonds, U.S. gold and manufacturing at Richline’s  facility in India for proof of concept, plans call for expansion of TrustChain in the future, incorporating more mines and manufacturers and making the jewelry available to additional retailers. 

“This pilot was done particularly to try to move product globally and … create a worldwide model that we could follow,” he said.

 The Berkshire Hathaway companies, along with Asahi and UL, have been working with IBM on the TrustChain project since the beginning of 2017.

The TrustChain rings are set to go on sale at Helzberg in the fall, with the exact number of stores that will carry the rings still being determined. 

Also still up in the air is how it will be marketed, packaged, presented in stores and explained by sales associates to the end consumer. 

All six ring styles created for the TrustChain initiative
All six ring styles created for the TrustChain initiative

As far as pricing on the rings goes, Helzberg Diamonds Chief Merchandising Officer Julie Yoakum said the retailer “does not anticipate putting a premium on TrustChain product,” meaning that the rings tracked through blockchain are not expected to be more expensive for consumers than comparable pieces.

The FAQ section of the TrustChain website says when consumers buy a TrustChain ring, they will receive a “permanent digital record” of that ring’s journey through the supply chain. If that sounds like a familiar concept, it’s because Richline has done a program like TrustChain before.

More than a decade ago, Aurafin (and, later, Richline) worked with Walmart and Pam Mortensen, who then was heading the retailer’s fine jewelry department, to launch a line called “Love, Earth.”

Each person who bought a piece could go to a now-defunct website, LoveEarthInfo.com, to see on a map where the gold was mined and the piece was manufactured.

It was a pioneering program in jewelry traceability, predating the formation of the Responsible Jewellery Council, Forevermark’s launch in the United States and most certainly blockchain.

“This is how we (Richline) got to blockchain, from Love, Earth,” Hanna said, though he noted the technology used for Love, Earth back in 2006, called string, was much less sophisticated and more manual. 

“We’re really going to be bringing back the program with a lot more documentation and a lot more touchpoints. The blockchain is kind of string on steroids.”

Hanna said from Richline’s perspective, there are additional costs involved in using blockchain in the short term, but the company anticipates those will be offset in the long term by the efficiencies it will create.

He also said he expects that in a year or two, the TrustChain initiative and the other blockchain pilots currently underway in the industry, from De Beers/Boston Consulting to Gübelin/Everledger, will be able to communicate and work together.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsJan 21, 2025
Peter Smith: Sales Training’s Dirty Little Secret

Peter Smith pulls back the curtain on the often misinterpreted, and sometimes maligned, world of sales training.

Lord Jewelry brown and white diamond ring
TrendsJan 21, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: Decadent Mocha Mousse

Pantone’s 2025 Color of the Year takes the form of jewelry through gemstones and enamel that look just as delicious as mocha mousse.

Charms from designer Jenna Blake
Policies & IssuesJan 21, 2025
These Designers and Retailers Are Raising Money for LA Wildfire Relief

From raffles to auctions to donations, the industry is working to aid charities in Los Angeles amid the raging wildfires.

Resolutions - 2025.jpg
Brought to you by
3 New Year’s Resolutions for Jewelry Lovers

The new year feels like a clean slate, inspiring reflection, hope, and the motivation to become better versions of ourselves.

Diamonds Do Good
SourcingJan 21, 2025
Diamonds Do Good Adds 2 Board Members

Julia Hackman Chafé and Monica Elias have joined the organization’s board of directors.

Weekly QuizJan 16, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Bucellati necklaces
FinancialsJan 17, 2025
Richemont’s Jewelry Sales Rise 14% in Holiday Quarter

The company, which owns Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, had a record Q3, with sales topping $6 billion.

Picchiotti Classic Blue and Green Necklace
CollectionsJan 17, 2025
Piece of the Week: Picchiotti’s Transformable ‘Classic Blue and Green’ Necklace

The necklace features a sapphire drop weighing more than 9 carats that detaches to transform into a ring.

ride_or_die_1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Celebrates "Forever Present" Holiday Campaign

A Diamond is Forever hosted a holiday celebration in honor of their new marketing campaign, ‘Forever Present.’

Gold jewelry boxes with Lux Bond & Green logo
IndependentsJan 16, 2025
Lux Bond & Green to Open Sixth Location

The 127-year-old jeweler is planning to open a new store in Mystic, Connecticut.

Timex National Park Collection
WatchesJan 16, 2025
Timex Launches Collection of National Park Watches

The watches’ dials feature artwork celebrating the vibrant energy and unique landscapes of six of America’s national parks.

Elizabeth Taylor diamond line bracelet
AuctionsJan 16, 2025
Elizabeth Taylor’s Diamond Line Bracelet Going up for Auction

Offered by U.K. auction house Woolley & Wallis, the yellow diamond bracelet was a gift from Taylor’s good friend Michael Jackson.

JCK open registration graphic
Events & AwardsJan 16, 2025
JCK Las Vegas 2025 Open for Registration

The jewelry trade show returns to The Venetian Expo and The Venetian Resort in Las Vegas from June 6 to 9.

Iris Apfel
EditorsJan 15, 2025
The Jewelry I’d Bid On in Christie’s Iris Apfel Auction

Associate Editor Natalie Francisco highlights her favorite fashion jewelry pieces from the upcoming “Unapologetically Iris” auction.

Jewelers Vigilance Committee Americans with Disabilities Act guide cover
Policies & IssuesJan 15, 2025
JVC Debuts Guide to Americans with Disabilities Act Compliance

The online guide is available for free and written with the jewelry industry in mind.

Jose Hess Design Award Trophy
Events & AwardsJan 15, 2025
Jose Hess Design Awards Open for Submissions

The awards honor the late Jose Hess, a founding member of AJDC and an award-winning jewelry designer.

Susan Jacques
GradingJan 14, 2025
GIA CEO, President Susan Jacques to Retire at the End of 2025

The grading lab said the search for her successor is underway.

Jewelry designer and National Jeweler guest columnist Jules Kim
ColumnistsJan 14, 2025
Jules Kim: Building Bridges Between Creators and Industry

In this special op-ed, designer Jules Kim calls on big brands to collaborate with independent creators instead of copying their designs.

Henry A. Hänni
GradingJan 14, 2025
Former SSEF Director Henry A. Hänni Dies

A pioneering figure in gemology, he is remembered for his spirit of generosity, curiosity, and joy.

Woman wearing rings on both hands
FinancialsJan 14, 2025
Signet Jewelers Lowers Q4 Guidance After Holiday Sales Fall Short

The peak selling days leading up to Christmas did not meet the jewelry retailer’s expectations.

Edouard Schneider
MajorsJan 14, 2025
Edouard Schneider Joins Messika as Chief Brand Officer

Schneider brings over 20 years of luxury and fashion industry experience to his role as a key member of the brand’s global leadership team.

Gemfields emeralds
SourcingJan 13, 2025
Zambia Reinstates 15% Export Duty on Precious Gemstones, Shocking Gemfields

Gemfields said the Zambian government revoked the 2019 suspension of the tax with no warning.

Woman’s silhouette with smart ring on finger
TechnologyJan 13, 2025
Ultrahuman Unveils Luxury Smart Ring

With versions in 18-karat gold and platinum, the wearables company is blending health technology and fine jewelry.

Brandee Dallow
Policies & IssuesJan 13, 2025
Brandee Dallow Elected President of Ethical Metalsmiths

The executive brings more than two decades of industry experience to the role.

Camille Zarsky and curated necklaces
IndependentsJan 13, 2025
The Seven Pops Up in Palm Beach

The New York City-based retailer is bringing its curation of jewels to a pop-up shop at Love Binetti in Palm Beach, Florida.

Jewelers Relief Fund logo
Policies & IssuesJan 10, 2025
Jewelers Relief Fund Reopened to Aid Victims of LA Fires

Created by JA and DCA, the fund is collecting money for jewelry businesses damaged by the wildfires in Los Angeles County.

Elsa Jin Mozi Brooch
TrendsJan 10, 2025
Piece of the Week: Elsa Jin’s ‘Mozi’ Brooch

Adrien Brody received his first Golden Globe while wearing the “Mozi” brooch, which depicts a spill of traditional Chinese calligraphy ink.

Paul Rowley, Sandrine Conseiller, Vipul Shah, and Kirit Bhansali
SourcingJan 10, 2025
De Beers, GJEPC Partner to Promote Natural Diamonds

The pair will work together to support independent retailers in India with marketing assets, training materials, and other tools.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy