Events & Awards

Live From Tucson: 7 Updates on the Gemstone Market

Events & AwardsFeb 02, 2018

Live From Tucson: 7 Updates on the Gemstone Market

Two executives from GemWorld International talked pricing, what’s selling and the biggest issues facing the sector today.


Tucson, Ariz.--There’s no better place than the Tucson gem shows to get an idea of where the market is today.

Thursday morning, GemWorld International President Richard Drucker and Vice President and Research Director Stuart Robertson did just that at AGTA GemFair.

They outlined a number of market developments and trends they’ve noticed, from what’s selling to the levels of the supply and demand for a variety of colored gemstones.

Here’s what they had to say.

1. The story of the two-level market continues.

Activity in the gemstone sector for the past few years has largely been at the high end and the low end, with very little activity in the middle, and that hasn’t changed, Robertson said.

The higher end is seeing strong demand, something a number of exhibitors told National Jeweler before the shows, because of tight supply.

The lower end has gotten “overproduced” and so prices are suffering, Robertson said, adding that sales are OK but are moving to internet sellers and other non-traditional methods of selling.

The middle tier, meanwhile, is “average at best” in terms of demand. This historically has been the “bread-and-butter” for the gemstone industry, and as long as this continues, the industry will likely continue to see the trend of more traditional stores closing faster than they’re replaced.

2. Reliance on memo is an issue.

More retailers are relying on memo to stock their stores, but the wholesale side of the trade cannot support themselves in that format or source product this way, Robertson said.

If the trend of over-reliance on memo continues and the wholesale side is expected to finance the retail side without any additional compensation for it, the market will narrow and the retail side will get hurt the most, he added.

3.  Ruby and sapphire prices are declining.

With the exception of the higher-grade material, ruby prices are down, which is due in part with the increase in supply of material from Mozambique.

Sapphire prices also are down, for the most part; there’s a slight increase in price, between 5 and 10 percent, in Burmese unenhanced sapphires. Sapphire production is higher as more sources have come online.

4. Emeralds are poised for change and activity.  

GemGuide has predicted higher demand for emeralds, not only because the green gemstone has seen the smallest amount of price increase among the “big three” in the past decade, presenting the
most opportunity for growth, but also because the market now better understand enhancements, especially as the labs have been educating about how they are describing treatments and what each means.

Drucker said production of Colombian emeralds appears to be consistent, and Zambian production is good and accessible to the market while the supply of Brazilian material is reportedly low.

Ethiopia, meanwhile, is poised to be an important source for emeralds, Drucker said.
RELATED CONTENT: 5 Things to Know About Ethiopian Emeralds
Robertson added that there’s been a lot of buzz about Ethiopian emeralds and they expect the stones to be one of the more popular gems at the show this year. Supply is good and pricing is attractive, though Robertson said it appears many of the dealers offering it still are trying to feel out the market to see where it settles.  

U.S. dealers are focusing on the emeralds from Ethiopia that have little to no enhancement.

Colombian emeralds, meanwhile, are trading at prices 20 to 25 percent below those of Zambian emeralds right now.

5. There’s growth in unique stones.

Drucker said they’re seeing growth in demand for “non-classic gems” (those outside sapphire, emerald and ruby) and enhanced lapidary materials. He noted that at the show, the busiest booths seemed to be those that were selling unusual materials, gemstones such as chalcedony, sugilite and Sonora chrysocolla.

6. There’s also growth among many other well-known gems.

Here are the other gems Drucker said were doing well: garnet, which has become popular in almost all of its colors and benefits from being a color substitution for a number of more expensive gems; aquamarine; morganite; tourmaline; zircon; spinel; and American-sourced gems.

7. Treatments remain a major challenge for the market.

Robertson said today there are, generally speaking, more treatments and less disclosure.

He added that the issue doesn’t just involve people not knowing exactly what’s being done to the material, but also not knowing how to relay it.

“What we’re seeing is a return to using codes on invoices, codes on lab reports, as opposed to spelling out the actual details of a treatment, and that’s problematic.”

The codes developed to talk about treatment disclosure were never meant to be used on lab reports or retail receipts for a consumer. Now, the consumers don’t have any real way to make sense of those codes.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Hogback diamond ring
AuctionsJun 26, 2026
‘Hogback’ Diamond Ring Finds a New Home

A ring set with “hogback” diamonds, an early stone cut dating to around the 16th century, sold for more than $20,000 at a U.K. auction.

Kris Averi Rainbow Prism Thorn Ring
CollectionsJun 26, 2026
Strength Is Sharpened Into Beauty in Kris Averi’s ‘Prism Thorn’ Ring

The rainbow version of the ring, our Piece of the Week, features angel-cut, octahedral lab-grown sapphires designed to be worn as armor.

A tray of Rembrandt charms
MajorsJun 26, 2026
Rembrandt Charms Debuts ‘Charms That Give Back’

The new initiative donates a portion of the proceeds from select charms to charitable causes.

Brought-To-By-Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center Stage

Colored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.

Bernard James Knickerbockers Special Edition Aura Band
TrendsJun 26, 2026
Bernard James Celebrates Knicks’ Win with Ring

The Brooklyn-based jeweler created a limited-edition version of its “Aura” eternity band, set with gemstones in the team’s colors.

Weekly QuizJun 25, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Brandee Dallow
SourcingJun 25, 2026
ICA Names Brandee Dallow as CEO

Dallow will lead the International Colored Gemstone Association, effective July 6.

SCAD Jewelers Mutual Studio exterior
EditorsJun 25, 2026
Out & About: How Jewelers Mutual, SCAD Are Tackling the Bench Jeweler Shortage

Senior Editor Lenore Fedow headed to Savannah to learn more about the 10-year, $10 million partnership between JM and the art school.

DCA-NJ-article-1872x1052-060826.jpg
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce Solutions

DCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.

Mejuri Steel Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsJun 25, 2026
Mejuri Experiments With Steel

Its new capsule jewelry collection features gold-finished stainless steel pieces designed for a maximalist look without a luxury price tag.

New Gem Legacy board members Annie Doresca, Mark Smelzer, Sara Yood
SourcingJun 25, 2026
Annie Doresca, Mark Smelzer, Sara Yood Join Gem Legacy Board

The three industry leaders bring financial, communications, and legal expertise to the nonprofit’s board of directors.

Smart Age CEO and National Jeweler columnist Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsJun 24, 2026
The Revenue Hiding Between Your Counter and Your Online Cart

Jewelers are missing out by not offering this one key add-on at the online point of sale, Emmanuel Raheb writes.

Hyacinth Charm on Hackmanite Bead Strand, Peach Opal Bead Strand, Hydrangea Charm on Aquamarine Bead Strand
CollectionsJun 24, 2026
Greenwich St. Jewelers, Jewel Boxing’s Latest Drop Is On-Trend

The fourth collaborative collection from the retailer and jewelry content creator focuses on gemstone charms and strands of colorful beads.

Columbia Gem House alexandrite
SourcingJun 24, 2026
Columbia Gem House To Offer Alexandrite Melee Online

The collection features traceable alexandrite from Brazil in calibrated sizes that is sorted by grade.

Dhaval Raja
MajorsJun 24, 2026
CaratLane Names New Chief Sales Officer

Dhaval Raja has been appointed to the role.

Francesca Villa On the Road Collection Race On Brooch and Long Road Necklace
CollectionsJun 23, 2026
Francesca Villa Goes ‘On the Road’

The capsule collection looks to vintage trunk pins that echo the spirit of speed, freedom, and the mythology of the American road trip.

A group of Paraiba tourmalines, two of which are possibly from Ethiopia
SourcingJun 23, 2026
New Paraíba Tourmaline Source Reportedly Discovered in Ethiopia

SSEF issued a notice about the potential new source of the sought-after gemstone, citing “credible reports” from trade sources.

Etsy Shop Other Jeffs campaign on a truck
MajorsJun 23, 2026
Etsy Says ‘Shop Other Jeffs’ This Prime Day

As Amazon Prime Day kicks off, Etsy is encouraging shoppers to support small businesses.

Cole Winward
Events & AwardsJun 23, 2026
AGA Announces 2026 Scholarship Winner

Cole Winward is the recipient of 2026 AGA Gemological Scholarship.

NeverNot Feel The Rhythm Boombox Pendant
EditorsJun 22, 2026
15 Pieces of Jewelry That Brought Us Joy in Vegas

Whether they evoked nostalgia, wonder, or laughter, these jewels put a smile on our faces.

Picture from press conference in Basel for new trade show, Basilia
Events & AwardsJun 22, 2026
Plans Announced for New Trade Show in Basel

Scheduled for April 2027, Basilia will be the first watch and jewelry trade show held in Basel since the collapse of Baselworld in 2020.

Gem Awards 2027 Logo
Events & AwardsJun 22, 2026
Gem Awards Opens 2027 Nomination Period

Submissions for the milestone 25th annual Gem Awards will be accepted across three categories from now through July 31.

Engineer Master II Snoopy Flying Ace Ball watch
WatchesJun 22, 2026
Snoopy Inspires New ‘Flying Ace’ Ball Watch

The beloved beagle dons his aviator outfit for the new Engineer Master II Snoopy Flying Ace timepiece.

Sotheby’s Paraiba tourmaline 7.70 carats
AuctionsJun 18, 2026
Paraíba Tourmalines Sell for $3.4M at Sotheby's

The recent high jewelry auction, which also featured the sale of a 10-carat blue diamond, was “a celebration of color.”

Almasika Le Cauri Endiamanté Drop Earrings
CollectionsJun 18, 2026
Michelle Obama Wears Almasika Earrings Symbolizing Feminine Power

She wore the “Le Cauri Endiamanté” earrings, our Piece of the Week, in the Obamas’ first dual portrait for the Obama Presidential Center.

Graphic for Episode 6 of My Next Question featuring Michelle Orman
PodcastsJun 17, 2026
Episode 6: Las Vegas 2026-Trends, Traffic, Broken Bathrooms

Couture’s Michelle Orman joins Amanda Gizzi and Michelle Graff for this special post-Market Week episode of My Next Question.

SSEF emerald with filler
GradingJun 17, 2026
SSEF Issues Warning on Refilled Emeralds

The lab is seeing emeralds with filler added post-testing enter the market, accompanied by reports that indicate little to no treatment.

Former Patek Philippe President Philippe Stern
WatchesJun 17, 2026
Patek Philippe’s ‘Visionary’ Leader Philippe Stern Dies at 88

The third generation of the Stern family to head Patek Philippe, he navigated the “quartz crisis” and preserved the brand’s independence.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy