Events & Awards

Live From Tucson: 7 Updates on the Gemstone Market

Events & AwardsFeb 02, 2018

Live From Tucson: 7 Updates on the Gemstone Market

Two executives from GemWorld International talked pricing, what’s selling and the biggest issues facing the sector today.


Tucson, Ariz.--There’s no better place than the Tucson gem shows to get an idea of where the market is today.

Thursday morning, GemWorld International President Richard Drucker and Vice President and Research Director Stuart Robertson did just that at AGTA GemFair.

They outlined a number of market developments and trends they’ve noticed, from what’s selling to the levels of the supply and demand for a variety of colored gemstones.

Here’s what they had to say.

1. The story of the two-level market continues.

Activity in the gemstone sector for the past few years has largely been at the high end and the low end, with very little activity in the middle, and that hasn’t changed, Robertson said.

The higher end is seeing strong demand, something a number of exhibitors told National Jeweler before the shows, because of tight supply.

The lower end has gotten “overproduced” and so prices are suffering, Robertson said, adding that sales are OK but are moving to internet sellers and other non-traditional methods of selling.

The middle tier, meanwhile, is “average at best” in terms of demand. This historically has been the “bread-and-butter” for the gemstone industry, and as long as this continues, the industry will likely continue to see the trend of more traditional stores closing faster than they’re replaced.

2. Reliance on memo is an issue.

More retailers are relying on memo to stock their stores, but the wholesale side of the trade cannot support themselves in that format or source product this way, Robertson said.

If the trend of over-reliance on memo continues and the wholesale side is expected to finance the retail side without any additional compensation for it, the market will narrow and the retail side will get hurt the most, he added.

3.  Ruby and sapphire prices are declining.

With the exception of the higher-grade material, ruby prices are down, which is due in part with the increase in supply of material from Mozambique.

Sapphire prices also are down, for the most part; there’s a slight increase in price, between 5 and 10 percent, in Burmese unenhanced sapphires. Sapphire production is higher as more sources have come online.

4. Emeralds are poised for change and activity.  

GemGuide has predicted higher demand for emeralds, not only because the green gemstone has seen the smallest amount of price increase among the “big three” in the past decade, presenting the
most opportunity for growth, but also because the market now better understand enhancements, especially as the labs have been educating about how they are describing treatments and what each means.

Drucker said production of Colombian emeralds appears to be consistent, and Zambian production is good and accessible to the market while the supply of Brazilian material is reportedly low.

Ethiopia, meanwhile, is poised to be an important source for emeralds, Drucker said.
RELATED CONTENT: 5 Things to Know About Ethiopian Emeralds
Robertson added that there’s been a lot of buzz about Ethiopian emeralds and they expect the stones to be one of the more popular gems at the show this year. Supply is good and pricing is attractive, though Robertson said it appears many of the dealers offering it still are trying to feel out the market to see where it settles.  

U.S. dealers are focusing on the emeralds from Ethiopia that have little to no enhancement.

Colombian emeralds, meanwhile, are trading at prices 20 to 25 percent below those of Zambian emeralds right now.

5. There’s growth in unique stones.

Drucker said they’re seeing growth in demand for “non-classic gems” (those outside sapphire, emerald and ruby) and enhanced lapidary materials. He noted that at the show, the busiest booths seemed to be those that were selling unusual materials, gemstones such as chalcedony, sugilite and Sonora chrysocolla.

6. There’s also growth among many other well-known gems.

Here are the other gems Drucker said were doing well: garnet, which has become popular in almost all of its colors and benefits from being a color substitution for a number of more expensive gems; aquamarine; morganite; tourmaline; zircon; spinel; and American-sourced gems.

7. Treatments remain a major challenge for the market.

Robertson said today there are, generally speaking, more treatments and less disclosure.

He added that the issue doesn’t just involve people not knowing exactly what’s being done to the material, but also not knowing how to relay it.

“What we’re seeing is a return to using codes on invoices, codes on lab reports, as opposed to spelling out the actual details of a treatment, and that’s problematic.”

The codes developed to talk about treatment disclosure were never meant to be used on lab reports or retail receipts for a consumer. Now, the consumers don’t have any real way to make sense of those codes.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Halle Berry’s vintage diamond and sapphire engagement ring
TrendsFeb 11, 2026
Halle Berry’s Retro Engagement Ring Is a Sapphire-Set Stunner

Sourced by For Future Reference Vintage, the yellow gold ring has a round center stone surrounded by step-cut sapphires.

Francesca’s storefront
MajorsFeb 11, 2026
Francesca’s Files for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy Again

The clothing and accessories chain announced last month it would be closing all of its stores.

Zales x Sweethearts Capsule Collection Heart Charms
CollectionsFeb 11, 2026
Zales Turns Sweethearts Into Jewelry for Valentine’s Day Collection

The “Zales x Sweethearts” collection features three mystery heart charms engraved with classic sayings seen on the Valentine’s Day candies.

MJSA Apprenticeship Guide
Brought to you by
The MJSA Mentor & Apprenticeship Program: Attracting & Training the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

Launched in 2023, the program will help the passing of knowledge between generations and alleviate the shortage of bench jewelers.

2026 Gemvision Symposium
TechnologyFeb 11, 2026
Gemvision Symposium 2026 Slated for April

The event will include panel discussions, hands-on demonstrations of new digital manufacturing tools, and a jewelry design contest.

Weekly QuizFeb 05, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
The Luanda Accord signatories at the African Mining Indaba in Cape Town, South Africa
SourcingFeb 10, 2026
At Meeting in South Africa, Support for Natural Diamonds Picks Up Steam

Namibia has formally signed the Luanda Accord, while two key industry organizations pledged to join the Natural Diamond Council.

Bad Bunny Performing Super Bowl LX Halftime Show
TrendsFeb 10, 2026
Bad Bunny Wears Football-Shaped ‘Desert Diamond’ for Halftime Performance

Lady Gaga, Cardi B, and Karol G also went with diamond jewelry for Bad Bunny’s Super Bowl halftime show honoring Puerto Rico.

JamAlert 1872x1052.png
Brought to you by
How Jewelers Can Fight Back Against Cell Jammers

Criminals are using cell jammers to disable alarms, but new technology like JamAlert™ can stop them.

Miraki Jewels heart diamond signet ring
SurveysFeb 10, 2026
Shoppers to Spend Big on Jewelry This Valentine’s Day, Says NRF

Jewelry is expected to be the No. 1 gift this year in terms of dollars spent.

Pomellato Nudo toi et moi ring
FinancialsFeb 10, 2026
Kering Plans Transformation as 2025 Sales Sink 13%

As star brand Gucci continues to struggle, the luxury titan plans to announce a new roadmap to return to growth.

Stuller color of the year 2026 Signature Red jewelry and gemstones
SourcingFeb 10, 2026
AGTA To Debut ‘Stuller Color of the Year’ Spectrum Awards Category

The new category asks entrants for “exceptional” interpretations of the supplier’s 2026 color of the year, which is “Signature Red.”

Stock image of loose polished diamonds
Policies & IssuesFeb 09, 2026
U.S., India Trade Deal One Step Closer to Being Finalized

The White House issued an official statement on the deal, which will eliminate tariffs on loose natural diamonds and gemstones from India.

James Free Jewelers Dayton Ohio store
IndependentsFeb 09, 2026
James Free Jewelers Unveils Revamped Flagship

The Ohio jeweler’s new layout features a curated collection of brand boutiques to promote storytelling and host in-store events.

KIL NYC The Pierced Padlock Wounded
TrendsFeb 09, 2026
These 14 Jewels Will Melt Your Heart This Valentine’s Day

From heart motifs to pink pearls, Valentine’s Day is filled with jewelry imbued with love.

Stock image of a gavel
CrimeFeb 06, 2026
Florida Man Sentenced After Selling Fake Native American Jewelry for a Decade

Prosecutors say the man attended arts and craft fairs claiming he was a third-generation jeweler who was a member of the Pueblo tribe.

Luciano Rodembusch
FinancialsFeb 06, 2026
Pandora’s North America GM Departs Amid Executive Changes

New CEO Berta de Pablos-Barbier shared her priorities for the Danish jewelry company this year as part of its fourth-quarter results.

Cece Jewellery Bespoke Wuthering Heights Signet Rings on Margot Robbie and Jacob Elordi
TrendsFeb 06, 2026
Margot Robbie, Jacob Elordi Wear Matching Cece Jewellery Signet Rings

Our Piece of the Week picks are these bespoke rings the “Wuthering Heights” stars have been spotted wearing during the film’s press tour.

Pandora platinum
MajorsFeb 05, 2026
Pandora to Begin Selling Platinum-Plated Jewelry

The introduction of platinum plating will reduce its reliance on silver amid volatile price swings, said Pandora.

Entrance to the Jwaneng diamond mine in Botswana
SourcingFeb 05, 2026
De Beers Lowers Production Guidance for 2026, Anglo Mulls Another Writedown

It would be the third impairment charge in three years on De Beers Group, which continues to grapple with a “challenging” diamond market.

Rendering of renovated Borsheims store
IndependentsFeb 05, 2026
Borsheims to Undergo Massive Renovation in the Spring

The Omaha jewelry store’s multi-million-dollar renovation is scheduled to begin in mid-May and take about six months.

Marco Bicego Paradise Amethyst Long Necklace
CollectionsFeb 05, 2026
Marco Bicego’s Amethyst Collection Travels to a Purple Paradise

The “Paradise Amethyst” collection focuses on amethyst, pink tourmaline, garnet, and 18-karat yellow gold beads.

Watches of Switzerland Regent Street London store
FinancialsFeb 05, 2026
Watches of Switzerland Reports Strong Holiday Results in Q3

The retailer credited its Roberto Coin campaign, in part, for boosting its North America sales.

Headshot of Sherry Smith, National Jeweler columnist and vice president of coaching strategy and development at the Edge Retail Academy
ColumnistsFeb 04, 2026
January Jewelry Sales: More Dollars Spent, Fewer Units Sold

Sherry Smith unpacks independent retailers’ January performance and gives tips for navigating the slow-growth year ahead.

Saks Fifth Avenue New York storefront
MajorsFeb 04, 2026
What Designers Should Know About Saks Global’s Bankruptcy

From how to get an invoice paid to getting merchandise returned, JVC’s Sara Yood answers some complex questions.

Jacquie Aiche Raw Amethyst Cluster Starburst Diamond Ring
TrendsFeb 04, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: February Birthstone Bliss

Amethyst, the birthstone for February, is a gemstone to watch this year with its rich purple hue and affordable price point.

Matteo Cuelli
MajorsFeb 04, 2026
Marco Bicego Names New Global Marketing Director

The Italian jewelry company appointed Matteo Cuelli to the newly created role.

Bryan Cowan, Thomas Schwartz, Liliana Estrella
MajorsFeb 04, 2026
Frederick Goldman Updates Leadership Team

The manufacturer said the changes are designed to improve speed, reliability, innovation, and service.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy