Events & Awards

Live From Tucson: 7 Updates on the Gemstone Market

Events & AwardsFeb 02, 2018

Live From Tucson: 7 Updates on the Gemstone Market

Two executives from GemWorld International talked pricing, what’s selling and the biggest issues facing the sector today.


Tucson, Ariz.--There’s no better place than the Tucson gem shows to get an idea of where the market is today.

Thursday morning, GemWorld International President Richard Drucker and Vice President and Research Director Stuart Robertson did just that at AGTA GemFair.

They outlined a number of market developments and trends they’ve noticed, from what’s selling to the levels of the supply and demand for a variety of colored gemstones.

Here’s what they had to say.

1. The story of the two-level market continues.

Activity in the gemstone sector for the past few years has largely been at the high end and the low end, with very little activity in the middle, and that hasn’t changed, Robertson said.

The higher end is seeing strong demand, something a number of exhibitors told National Jeweler before the shows, because of tight supply.

The lower end has gotten “overproduced” and so prices are suffering, Robertson said, adding that sales are OK but are moving to internet sellers and other non-traditional methods of selling.

The middle tier, meanwhile, is “average at best” in terms of demand. This historically has been the “bread-and-butter” for the gemstone industry, and as long as this continues, the industry will likely continue to see the trend of more traditional stores closing faster than they’re replaced.

2. Reliance on memo is an issue.

More retailers are relying on memo to stock their stores, but the wholesale side of the trade cannot support themselves in that format or source product this way, Robertson said.

If the trend of over-reliance on memo continues and the wholesale side is expected to finance the retail side without any additional compensation for it, the market will narrow and the retail side will get hurt the most, he added.

3.  Ruby and sapphire prices are declining.

With the exception of the higher-grade material, ruby prices are down, which is due in part with the increase in supply of material from Mozambique.

Sapphire prices also are down, for the most part; there’s a slight increase in price, between 5 and 10 percent, in Burmese unenhanced sapphires. Sapphire production is higher as more sources have come online.

4. Emeralds are poised for change and activity.  

GemGuide has predicted higher demand for emeralds, not only because the green gemstone has seen the smallest amount of price increase among the “big three” in the past decade, presenting the
most opportunity for growth, but also because the market now better understand enhancements, especially as the labs have been educating about how they are describing treatments and what each means.

Drucker said production of Colombian emeralds appears to be consistent, and Zambian production is good and accessible to the market while the supply of Brazilian material is reportedly low.

Ethiopia, meanwhile, is poised to be an important source for emeralds, Drucker said.
RELATED CONTENT: 5 Things to Know About Ethiopian Emeralds
Robertson added that there’s been a lot of buzz about Ethiopian emeralds and they expect the stones to be one of the more popular gems at the show this year. Supply is good and pricing is attractive, though Robertson said it appears many of the dealers offering it still are trying to feel out the market to see where it settles.  

U.S. dealers are focusing on the emeralds from Ethiopia that have little to no enhancement.

Colombian emeralds, meanwhile, are trading at prices 20 to 25 percent below those of Zambian emeralds right now.

5. There’s growth in unique stones.

Drucker said they’re seeing growth in demand for “non-classic gems” (those outside sapphire, emerald and ruby) and enhanced lapidary materials. He noted that at the show, the busiest booths seemed to be those that were selling unusual materials, gemstones such as chalcedony, sugilite and Sonora chrysocolla.

6. There’s also growth among many other well-known gems.

Here are the other gems Drucker said were doing well: garnet, which has become popular in almost all of its colors and benefits from being a color substitution for a number of more expensive gems; aquamarine; morganite; tourmaline; zircon; spinel; and American-sourced gems.

7. Treatments remain a major challenge for the market.

Robertson said today there are, generally speaking, more treatments and less disclosure.

He added that the issue doesn’t just involve people not knowing exactly what’s being done to the material, but also not knowing how to relay it.

“What we’re seeing is a return to using codes on invoices, codes on lab reports, as opposed to spelling out the actual details of a treatment, and that’s problematic.”

The codes developed to talk about treatment disclosure were never meant to be used on lab reports or retail receipts for a consumer. Now, the consumers don’t have any real way to make sense of those codes.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Arena Club Twilight and Eclipse Time Boxes
TechnologyJul 10, 2026
There’s a New Blind Box for Luxury Watches

Collectibles platform Arena Club’s new Time Boxes could contain a Rolex or Patek Philippe watch.

Jade Trau Constellation Plié Collar
TrendsJul 10, 2026
Jade Trau Creates a Constellation of Diamonds

The “Constellation Plié” collar, our Piece of the Week, features diamonds arranged in a constellation of shining stars.

Former De Beers CFO of Brands and Consumer Markets Shaun Wills
SourcingJul 10, 2026
CFO of De Beers’ Consumer-Facing Division Leaves Company

Shaun Wills joined the company in 2024 and was chief financial officer of the De Beers Brands and Consumer Markets division.

Brought-To-By-Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center Stage

Colored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.

Brilliant Earth watches
WatchesJul 10, 2026
Brilliant Earth Expands Into Watches

In honor of its 20th anniversary, the jewelry brand has released a limited-edition collection of Swiss-made timepieces.

Weekly QuizJul 09, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Boucheron Human Being Collection Tattoo Necklace
CollectionsJul 09, 2026
Boucheron’s New High Jewelry Collection Is an Ode to the Human Touch

“Human Being” highlights the similarities and differences between us through five sets of jewelry that celebrate fine craftsmanship.

Baume & Mercier watch
WatchesJul 09, 2026
Damiani Group Finalizes Acquisition of Baume & Mercier

Richemont will continue to provide operational services for the watch brand for a period while the group prepares to integrate it.

DCA-NJ-article-1872x1052-060826.jpg
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce Solutions

DCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.

Joopiter Logo
AuctionsJul 09, 2026
Pharrell Williams’ Joopiter Hires Former Bonhams Exec to Head New Watch Division

Nate Borgelt will lead the digital auction house and content platform’s new division as head of watches.

Kendra Scott
MajorsJul 08, 2026
Kendra Scott Joins ‘Shark Tank’ As Permanent Investor

The founder of the billion-dollar jewelry and lifestyle brand will debut as a full-time “Shark” on the upcoming season of the show.

Hands crossed with rings on
SurveysJul 08, 2026
Signet Jewelers Falls 5 Spots on NRF’s ‘Top 100’ Retailers List

Plus, why retailers should be ready to adjust as the U.S. population may decline this year for the first time since the Great Depression.

René Lalique “Woman Dragonfly With Open Wings” pendant
CrimeJul 08, 2026
Here’s What Thieves Stole From the Lalique Museum

René Lalique’s “Woman Dragonfly With Open Wings” pendant, the first piece the museum acquired, was one of the jewels taken.

Arien Gessner and Moss Makhoulian
MajorsJul 08, 2026
Richline Group Promotes 2 Execs

Arien Gessner and Moss Makhoulian have been elevated into newly created roles.

The Retail Smiths partner and National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsJul 07, 2026
Peter Smith: Diamond Branding and the Origin Paradox

A podcast prompted Smith to share his views on where origin fits into the natural diamond story and the viability of branded diamonds.

Jewelers of America Impact Initiative Recipients 2026
Events & AwardsJul 07, 2026
JA Announces 2026 Impact Initiative Recipients

The association selected eight recipients for the funding program, which is in its second year.

Zahn Z In Rubies We Clicked
TrendsJul 07, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Ruby, White and Blue

Whether celebrating America’s 250th birthday or the USA’s World Cup run, July birthstone jewelry can double as a patriotic accessory.

Police van outside of Musée Lalique
CrimeJul 07, 2026
Thieves Steal Millions in Jewels From France’s Musée Lalique

Around 20 pieces of jewelry were stolen from the museum dedicated to French jeweler and glassmaker René Lalique.

Robinson Pelham Summer of ’96 Campaign
CollectionsJul 07, 2026
Robinson Pelham Is Partying Like It’s 1996

The “Summer of ’96” campaign and collection celebrate the year the brand was founded for its 30th anniversary.

Sean Gilbertson
SourcingJul 06, 2026
Gemfields CEO Sean Gilbertson Steps Down

After eight years, Gilbertson is leaving his post at the mining company, which is currently facing a slew of operational challenges.

Bachendorf’s New Dallas Location Exterior Rendering
IndependentsJul 06, 2026
Bachendorf’s To Open Fifth Store In Dallas

The new location is set to open this winter, featuring the retailer’s first rotating jewelry designer residency.

Jung Kook for Graff
MajorsJul 06, 2026
Graff Names BTS Star Jung Kook as New Ambassador

The pop artist appears in the latest campaign for the “Laurence Graff Signature” collection.

Pandora pearl jewelry campaign imagery
CollectionsJul 06, 2026
Pandora’s New Baroque Pearl Collection Is a Whimsical ‘Wonder’

One-of-a-kind pearls take the shape of ice cream cones, frogs, submarines, and other imaginative charms.

London Diamond Bourse President Charlotte Rose
SourcingJul 02, 2026
London Diamond Bourse Elects First Female President

Charlotte Rose said her election is “a sign that this is an industry capable of change.”

Bracelets_1872_1052.jpg
Supplier BulletinJul 02, 2026
Elevating Retail Showcases with Today's Necklace & Bracelet Trends

Sponsored by Rio Grande Jewelry Supply

Oscar Heyman Flag Brooch
TrendsJul 02, 2026
Oscar Heyman’s Flag Brooch Celebrates America

The American jewelry house, founded by Latvian immigrants, has been creating American flag brooches since 1917.

D. Geller & Son store mural
IndependentsJul 02, 2026
D. Geller & Son Partners with KSU Art Students on Store Mural

The artwork celebrates the Atlanta jeweler’s legacy and symbolizes its commitment to supporting local artists and its community.

Hand taking jewelry out of jewelry box
Events & AwardsJul 02, 2026
Stratus Estate Buyers Offers Jewelers Turnkey Buying Events

Its team can evaluate jewelry and watches, as well as luxury handbags, artwork, and collectibles.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy