“Shell Auranova” is the next generation of the brand’s bridal line, featuring half-bezel engagement rings with bold and fluid designs.
Live From Tucson: 7 Updates on the Gemstone Market
Two executives from GemWorld International talked pricing, what’s selling and the biggest issues facing the sector today.
Tucson, Ariz.--There’s no better place than the Tucson gem shows to get an idea of where the market is today.
Thursday morning, GemWorld International President Richard Drucker and Vice President and Research Director Stuart Robertson did just that at AGTA GemFair.
They outlined a number of market developments and trends they’ve noticed, from what’s selling to the levels of the supply and demand for a variety of colored gemstones.
Here’s what they had to say.
1. The story of the two-level market continues.
Activity in the gemstone sector for the past few years has largely been at the high end and the low end, with very little activity in the middle, and that hasn’t changed, Robertson said.
The higher end is seeing strong demand, something a number of exhibitors told National Jeweler before the shows, because of tight supply.
The lower end has gotten “overproduced” and so prices are suffering, Robertson said, adding that sales are OK but are moving to internet sellers and other non-traditional methods of selling.
The middle tier, meanwhile, is “average at best” in terms of demand. This historically has been the “bread-and-butter” for the gemstone industry, and as long as this continues, the industry will likely continue to see the trend of more traditional stores closing faster than they’re replaced.
2. Reliance on memo is an issue.
More retailers are relying on memo to stock their stores, but the wholesale side of the trade cannot support themselves in that format or source product this way, Robertson said.
If the trend of over-reliance on memo continues and the wholesale side is expected to finance the retail side without any additional compensation for it, the market will narrow and the retail side will get hurt the most, he added.
3. Ruby and sapphire prices are declining.
With the exception of the higher-grade material, ruby prices are down, which is due in part with the increase in supply of material from Mozambique.
Sapphire prices also are down, for the most part; there’s a slight increase in price, between 5 and 10 percent, in Burmese unenhanced sapphires. Sapphire production is higher as more sources have come online.
4. Emeralds are poised for change and activity.
GemGuide has predicted higher demand for emeralds, not only because the green gemstone has seen the smallest amount of price increase among the “big three” in the past decade, presenting the
Drucker said production of Colombian emeralds appears to be consistent, and Zambian production is good and accessible to the market while the supply of Brazilian material is reportedly low.
Ethiopia, meanwhile, is poised to be an important source for emeralds, Drucker said.
RELATED CONTENT: 5 Things to Know About Ethiopian EmeraldsRobertson added that there’s been a lot of buzz about Ethiopian emeralds and they expect the stones to be one of the more popular gems at the show this year. Supply is good and pricing is attractive, though Robertson said it appears many of the dealers offering it still are trying to feel out the market to see where it settles.
U.S. dealers are focusing on the emeralds from Ethiopia that have little to no enhancement.
Colombian emeralds, meanwhile, are trading at prices 20 to 25 percent below those of Zambian emeralds right now.
5. There’s growth in unique stones.
Drucker said they’re seeing growth in demand for “non-classic gems” (those outside sapphire, emerald and ruby) and enhanced lapidary materials. He noted that at the show, the busiest booths seemed to be those that were selling unusual materials, gemstones such as chalcedony, sugilite and Sonora chrysocolla.
6. There’s also growth among many other well-known gems.
Here are the other gems Drucker said were doing well: garnet, which has become popular in almost all of its colors and benefits from being a color substitution for a number of more expensive gems; aquamarine; morganite; tourmaline; zircon; spinel; and American-sourced gems.
7. Treatments remain a major challenge for the market.
Robertson said today there are, generally speaking, more treatments and less disclosure.
He added that the issue doesn’t just involve people not knowing exactly what’s being done to the material, but also not knowing how to relay it.
“What we’re seeing is a return to using codes on invoices, codes on lab reports, as opposed to spelling out the actual details of a treatment, and that’s problematic.”
The codes developed to talk about treatment disclosure were never meant to be used on lab reports or retail receipts for a consumer. Now, the consumers don’t have any real way to make sense of those codes.
The Latest

Boucheron and Pomellato performed well in an otherwise bleak quarter for Kering amid struggles at Gucci.

Designer Deborah Meyers created her birds from oxidized sterling silver, rose-cut diamond eyes, and Akoya Keshi pearl feathers.

Six new retail businesses were selected for the 2025 program, which began in January.

The company said it expects sightholders to remain “cautious” with their purchasing due to all the unknowns around the U.S. tariffs.


Sponsored by the Gemological Institute of America

Simon Wolf shares why the time was right to open a new office here, what he looks for in a retail partner, and why he loves U.S. consumers.

The risk of laboratory-grown diamonds being falsely presented as natural diamonds presents a very significant danger to consumer trust.

A third-generation jeweler, Ginsberg worked at his family’s store, Ginsberg Jewelers, from 1948 until his retirement in 2019.

The company failed to file its quarterly reports in a timely manner.

The organization also announced its board of directors.

Charms may be tiny but with their small size comes endless layering possibilities, from bracelets to necklaces and earrings.

Located in Valenza, the now 355,000-square-foot facility includes a new jewelry school that’s open to the public, Scuola Bulgari.

A platinum Zenith-powered Daytona commissioned in the late ‘90s will headline Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in Geneva next month.

The basketball stars wear men’s jewelry from the “Curb Chain” collection.

The Signet Jewelers-owned retailer wants to encourage younger shoppers to wear fine jewelry every day, not just on special occasions.

The 21 pieces, all from a private collector, will be offered at its Magnificent Jewels auction next month.

Lilian Raji answers a question from a reader who is looking to grow her jewelry business but has a limited marketing budget.

GCAL by Sarine created the new role to sharpen the company’s focus on strategic partnerships and scalable expansion.

The Indiana jeweler has acquired Scottsdale Fine Jewelers in Scottsdale, Arizona.

Van Cott Jewelers in Vestal, New York, is hosting a going-out-of-business sale.

Industry veteran Samantha Larson has held leadership roles at Borsheims, McTeigue & McClelland, Stuller, and Long’s Jewelers.
The two organizations will hold the educational event together this fall in Mississippi.

The entrepreneur and “Shark Tank” star will share his top tips for success.

The Ukrainian brand’s new pendant is modeled after a traditional paska, a pastry often baked for Easter in Eastern European cultures.

The jeweler has announced a grand reopening for its recently remodeled location in Peoria, Illinois.

The “Strong Like Mom” campaign features moms who work at Tiffany & Co. and their children.