The 197-carat Russian Crown jewel was the leading lot of Sotheby's white-glove Royal & Noble Jewels sale this week.
Live From Tucson: 7 Updates on the Gemstone Market
Two executives from GemWorld International talked pricing, what’s selling and the biggest issues facing the sector today.
Tucson, Ariz.--There’s no better place than the Tucson gem shows to get an idea of where the market is today.
Thursday morning, GemWorld International President Richard Drucker and Vice President and Research Director Stuart Robertson did just that at AGTA GemFair.
They outlined a number of market developments and trends they’ve noticed, from what’s selling to the levels of the supply and demand for a variety of colored gemstones.
Here’s what they had to say.
1. The story of the two-level market continues.
Activity in the gemstone sector for the past few years has largely been at the high end and the low end, with very little activity in the middle, and that hasn’t changed, Robertson said.
The higher end is seeing strong demand, something a number of exhibitors told National Jeweler before the shows, because of tight supply.
The lower end has gotten “overproduced” and so prices are suffering, Robertson said, adding that sales are OK but are moving to internet sellers and other non-traditional methods of selling.
The middle tier, meanwhile, is “average at best” in terms of demand. This historically has been the “bread-and-butter” for the gemstone industry, and as long as this continues, the industry will likely continue to see the trend of more traditional stores closing faster than they’re replaced.
2. Reliance on memo is an issue.
More retailers are relying on memo to stock their stores, but the wholesale side of the trade cannot support themselves in that format or source product this way, Robertson said.
If the trend of over-reliance on memo continues and the wholesale side is expected to finance the retail side without any additional compensation for it, the market will narrow and the retail side will get hurt the most, he added.
3. Ruby and sapphire prices are declining.
With the exception of the higher-grade material, ruby prices are down, which is due in part with the increase in supply of material from Mozambique.
Sapphire prices also are down, for the most part; there’s a slight increase in price, between 5 and 10 percent, in Burmese unenhanced sapphires. Sapphire production is higher as more sources have come online.
4. Emeralds are poised for change and activity.
GemGuide has predicted higher demand for emeralds, not only because the green gemstone has seen the smallest amount of price increase among the “big three” in the past decade, presenting the
Drucker said production of Colombian emeralds appears to be consistent, and Zambian production is good and accessible to the market while the supply of Brazilian material is reportedly low.
Ethiopia, meanwhile, is poised to be an important source for emeralds, Drucker said.
RELATED CONTENT: 5 Things to Know About Ethiopian EmeraldsRobertson added that there’s been a lot of buzz about Ethiopian emeralds and they expect the stones to be one of the more popular gems at the show this year. Supply is good and pricing is attractive, though Robertson said it appears many of the dealers offering it still are trying to feel out the market to see where it settles.
U.S. dealers are focusing on the emeralds from Ethiopia that have little to no enhancement.
Colombian emeralds, meanwhile, are trading at prices 20 to 25 percent below those of Zambian emeralds right now.
5. There’s growth in unique stones.
Drucker said they’re seeing growth in demand for “non-classic gems” (those outside sapphire, emerald and ruby) and enhanced lapidary materials. He noted that at the show, the busiest booths seemed to be those that were selling unusual materials, gemstones such as chalcedony, sugilite and Sonora chrysocolla.
6. There’s also growth among many other well-known gems.
Here are the other gems Drucker said were doing well: garnet, which has become popular in almost all of its colors and benefits from being a color substitution for a number of more expensive gems; aquamarine; morganite; tourmaline; zircon; spinel; and American-sourced gems.
7. Treatments remain a major challenge for the market.
Robertson said today there are, generally speaking, more treatments and less disclosure.
He added that the issue doesn’t just involve people not knowing exactly what’s being done to the material, but also not knowing how to relay it.
“What we’re seeing is a return to using codes on invoices, codes on lab reports, as opposed to spelling out the actual details of a treatment, and that’s problematic.”
The codes developed to talk about treatment disclosure were never meant to be used on lab reports or retail receipts for a consumer. Now, the consumers don’t have any real way to make sense of those codes.
The Latest

The “Équation” bracelet, our Piece of the Week, was built via 24 gold modules assembled into a piece that feels like fabric on the wrist.

Alter’s Gem Jewelry in Beaumont, Texas, is closing as Brian and Lori Alter retire to spend more time with family.

With over 50 years experience in the trade, DSF Antique Jewelry offers quality, craftsmanship, condition, and remarkable variety.

Three of the other alleged perpetrators will stand trial next March, while two remain on the lam and one was deported late last year.


Unseen for more than seven decades, the fancy intense pink diamond was the star of Christie’s Geneva jewelry auction.

The curated selection is available online and at its showroom in Austin, Texas.

With customization becoming more expected in engagement ring shopping, the Bridal Builder makes the process tangible.

The next generation understands what makes the 126-year-old retailer special, said CEO and Co-President Elise Greenberg.

The 6-carat CVD-grown pink diamond was “deliberately modified” to mimic the appearance of a natural rough diamond, the lab said.

If the Global Diamond Consortium emerges as the top bidder for De Beers, Botswana’s stake will double to 30 percent, Duma Boko said Monday.

An incorrect AI-generated ad or product description can cost your store valuable consumer trust.

The incident, which happened in Miami-Dade County, serves as a reminder to jewelers of the dangers of selling and storing jewelry at home.

GIA Analytical Microscopist John Koivula curated the collection of 2,665 crystals, gems, and minerals over a 60-year span.

The “Eclipse” collection, the brand’s first high jewelry line, centers its alligator motif in diamond and spinel jewels.

From a Betta fish brooch to a “dragon’s trove” of zircon eggs, here are seven pieces that’ve stuck with Associate Editor Lauren McLemore.

Groundbreaking New Mexico Governor-elect Deb Haaland wore the earrings, our Piece of the Week, when she declared victory on Tuesday.

Jost goes on an epic journey, traversing rough seas and encountering a cyclops, to discover the perfect holiday gift.

Sponsored by GCAL by Sarine

From shrinking budgets to AI elves, here are five takeaways from holiday reports by Bain, Adobe, Mastercard, NRF, and insights from YouGov.

The designers combined their talents for Little Pet Portraits, hand-painted miniatures of our best friends set in a piece of jewelry.

Its non-bridal fine jewelry remains the star of the show, recently launching new collections inspired by Elizabeth Taylor and Jane Goodall.

“Joy: The Swarovski Musical” features Ariana Grande as the leading lady in scenes inspired by classic musical montages.

The lab will bring back its complimentary next-day service for some reports starting next week.

A Pennsylvania woman failed to declare a ring and a bracelet, discarding the boxes and receipts to conceal the purchases, officials said.

New collections and relevant marketing pushed the company forward, while Pandora’s lab-grown diamond sales continue to lag.

The citywide celebration, slated for Nov. 16-22, is set to host more than 175 events, including live jewelry-making demos.























