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AGTA Reveals Spectrum, Cutting Edge Award Winners for 2024
This year’s AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards included a new category for engagement rings and a new award highlighting female designers.
A platinum and 18-karat yellow gold brooch titled “Sophia D En Tremblant Butterfly” (left) from Joseph Dardashti of Joseph Dardashti Ltd. and Sophia D. featuring emeralds, rubies, sapphires, and diamonds won Best of Show honors in the Spectrum division, while a 33-carat Montana sapphire called “The Montana Sun Sapphire” from John Dyer of John Dyer Gems took home Best of Show honors in the Cutting Edge division.
Dallas—The American Gem Trade Association announced the winners of the 2024 AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards this week.
Judging for the contest, now in its 40th year, took place Oct. 31 and Nov. 1 at the Omni Frisco Hotel at the Star in Dallas.
There were more than 375 entries, which AGTA CEO John W. Ford Sr. said was similar to the previous year and included a “substantial number” of first-time entrants.
Category distribution also was comparable to 2023.
“Every year the quality of our entries continues to get better and better,” said Ford.
The Evening Wear category had the most entries at 75, while Men’s Wear had 27 entries, a slight increase from last year.
A new category was introduced this year for engagement rings.
It had 21 entries, which Ford described as “an explosion of vibrant color” that “far outweighed my expectations.”
“We are thrilled to see artists’ colorful takes in an area that has traditionally been reserved for diamonds,” he said of the new category.
A new award also was introduced this year.
The Alfie Norville Women in Excellence Awards, sponsored by Allan Norville and the Norville family, were created to highlight female designers. The designation was given to one female entrant in each of the six Spectrum categories.
The 2024 AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards judges included Jean Francois Bibet, Cartier; Sherry Bender, The Goldsmith Ltd., Chicago; Susan Jacques, Gemological Institute of America; and Suzy Landa, Suzy Landa Fine Jewelry.
An additional judge, Peggy Grosz, formerly of Assael, withdrew due to a conflict.
“We have returned to Texas for a fourth time, and this may be our best year yet,” said Kimberly Collins, owner of Kimberly Collins Colored Gems and president of the AGTA board of directors.
“The caliber of the entries continues to increase annually, and the expertise of the judges wows us. I think everyone loved seeing the submissions in the new engagement ring category, as colored gems in bridal are a growing segment of the market.”
Spectrum award entries are judged on overall beauty and wearability, innovative design, effective use of materials, quality of gemstones, quality of workmanship, broad‐based consumer appeal and potential to generate positive publicity for natural colored gemstones, natural pearls and cultured pearls.
Cutting Edge awards honor excellence and creativity in the lapidary arts, including natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls, carvings, and other gem materials.
Many of the winning pieces will be on display during AGTA GemFair Tucson, slated for Feb. 3–9 in Tucson, Arizona.
Winners will be recognized at the AGTA Spectrum Gala, scheduled to take place Feb. 8 in the recent addition to the Tucson Convention Center.
Here they are.
“Best of” Awards
Best of Show–Spectrum: Joseph Dardashti, Joseph Dardashti Ltd. and Sophia D.
Best of Show–Cutting Edge: John Dyer, John Dyer Gems
Best Use of Color: Niveet Nagpal, Omi Gems Inc.
Best Use of Pearl: Robin Callahan, Robin Callahan Designs LLC
Fashion Forward: Adam Neeley, Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry Inc.
Best of Single Entries–Cutting Edge: Philip Louer, North American Gem Carvers LLC, with contributors Nicolai Medvedev (designer and fabricator), and Susan Helmich (gold work)
Best of Single Entries–Spectrum: Matthew Tuggle, Tuggle Designs, with contributors Lauren Tuggle (co-designer and hand engraver), Ryan Anderson (lapidary artist), and Kyle Forgey (supporting jeweler)
Best Use of Platinum and Color: Craig Slavens, Luxe Fine Jewelry
Best Use of Platinum Crown: Marie Fellhauer, Holly Hawks Curations LLC, with contributor Southern Diamond Jewelers (bench jeweler)
See: The “Best Of” Winners
Judging for the contest, now in its 40th year, took place Oct. 31 and Nov. 1 at the Omni Frisco Hotel at the Star in Dallas.
There were more than 375 entries, which AGTA CEO John W. Ford Sr. said was similar to the previous year and included a “substantial number” of first-time entrants.
Category distribution also was comparable to 2023.
“Every year the quality of our entries continues to get better and better,” said Ford.
The Evening Wear category had the most entries at 75, while Men’s Wear had 27 entries, a slight increase from last year.
A new category was introduced this year for engagement rings.
It had 21 entries, which Ford described as “an explosion of vibrant color” that “far outweighed my expectations.”
“We are thrilled to see artists’ colorful takes in an area that has traditionally been reserved for diamonds,” he said of the new category.
A new award also was introduced this year.
The Alfie Norville Women in Excellence Awards, sponsored by Allan Norville and the Norville family, were created to highlight female designers. The designation was given to one female entrant in each of the six Spectrum categories.
The 2024 AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards judges included Jean Francois Bibet, Cartier; Sherry Bender, The Goldsmith Ltd., Chicago; Susan Jacques, Gemological Institute of America; and Suzy Landa, Suzy Landa Fine Jewelry.
An additional judge, Peggy Grosz, formerly of Assael, withdrew due to a conflict.
“We have returned to Texas for a fourth time, and this may be our best year yet,” said Kimberly Collins, owner of Kimberly Collins Colored Gems and president of the AGTA board of directors.
“The caliber of the entries continues to increase annually, and the expertise of the judges wows us. I think everyone loved seeing the submissions in the new engagement ring category, as colored gems in bridal are a growing segment of the market.”
Spectrum award entries are judged on overall beauty and wearability, innovative design, effective use of materials, quality of gemstones, quality of workmanship, broad‐based consumer appeal and potential to generate positive publicity for natural colored gemstones, natural pearls and cultured pearls.
Cutting Edge awards honor excellence and creativity in the lapidary arts, including natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls, carvings, and other gem materials.
Many of the winning pieces will be on display during AGTA GemFair Tucson, slated for Feb. 3–9 in Tucson, Arizona.
Winners will be recognized at the AGTA Spectrum Gala, scheduled to take place Feb. 8 in the recent addition to the Tucson Convention Center.
Here they are.
“Best of” Awards
Best of Show–Spectrum: Joseph Dardashti, Joseph Dardashti Ltd. and Sophia D.
Best of Show–Cutting Edge: John Dyer, John Dyer Gems
Best Use of Color: Niveet Nagpal, Omi Gems Inc.
Best Use of Pearl: Robin Callahan, Robin Callahan Designs LLC
Fashion Forward: Adam Neeley, Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry Inc.
Best of Single Entries–Cutting Edge: Philip Louer, North American Gem Carvers LLC, with contributors Nicolai Medvedev (designer and fabricator), and Susan Helmich (gold work)
Best of Single Entries–Spectrum: Matthew Tuggle, Tuggle Designs, with contributors Lauren Tuggle (co-designer and hand engraver), Ryan Anderson (lapidary artist), and Kyle Forgey (supporting jeweler)
Best Use of Platinum and Color: Craig Slavens, Luxe Fine Jewelry
Best Use of Platinum Crown: Marie Fellhauer, Holly Hawks Curations LLC, with contributor Southern Diamond Jewelers (bench jeweler)
See: The “Best Of” Winners
Best of Show–Spectrum. Joseph Dardashti of Joseph Dardashti Ltd. and Sophia D. Karmel’s platinum and 18-karat yellow gold “Sophia D En Tremblant Butterfly” brooch featuring emeralds (0.55 carats), rubies (3.02 carats), sapphires (0.65 carats), and diamonds (7.55 carats)
Best of Show–Cutting Edge. John Dyer of John Dyer Gems’ 33-carat Rock Creek, Montana, sapphire titled “The Montana Sun Sapphire”
Best Use of Color. Niveet Nagpal of Omi Gems Inc.’s platinum ring featuring a 12.42-carat bicolor emerald-cut tourmaline accented by spinel (0.70 carats), demantoid garnets (0.68 carats), and diamonds (0.41 carats)
Best Use of Pearl. Robin Callahan of Robin Callahan Designs LLC’s 14-karat white fold “Helix” cufflinks featuring two pairs of Keshi pearls with blue overtones accented by black diamonds (6.31 carats)
Fashion Forward. Adam Neeley of Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry Inc.’s titanium and 14-karat white gold “Cromatica” earrings featuring tanzanite (20.66 carats) and garnet (23.62 carats) accented by diamonds (1.26 carats)
Best of Single Entries–Cutting Edge. Philip Louer of North American Gem Carvers LLC with contributors Nicolai Medvedev and Susan Helmich’s “Blue Boy” intarsia box featuring a 22-karat gold carving of a stingray accented by Australian opal, Virgin Valley opal, maw sit sit, Nevada turquoise, golden quartz, sugilite, malachite, dinosaur bone, diamonds, and tourmaline (2.20 carats)
Best of Single Entries–Spectrum. Matthew Tuggle of Tuggle Designs, with contributors Lauren Tuggle, Ryan Anderson, and Kyle Forgey’s 18-karat rose and yellow gold and platinum “Whisper of the Ancestors” lapel pin featuring an 18.23-carat fantasy-cut sunstone accented by mixed teal tourmaline (1.15 carats) and diamonds (0.76 carats)
Best Use of Platinum and Color. Craig Slavens of Luxe Fine Jewelry’s platinum “Blue Me Away” ring featuring a 13.59-carat bezel-set cabochon cat’s eye blue topaz accented by ombré blue sapphires (2.16 carats) and diamonds (1.45 carats)
Bridal Wear
First Place: Christina Penuel, Mark Loren Designs
Second Place: Craig Slavens, Luxe Fine Jewelry (commissioned by Larry Rice)
Third Place: Adam Neeley, Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry, Inc.
Alfie Norville Women in Excellence Award: Janine Castro, Janine Castro Jewelry, with contributors Steven DeLaVega (center stone source) and Juan Negron (jeweler)
Honorable Mention and Platinum Honors: Niveet Nagpal, Omi Gems Inc.
Business/Day Wear
First Place and Platinum Honors: Maia Carlson, Weber Goldsmith Gallery, with contributor Brad Weber
Second Place: Wolfgang Vaatz, Wolfgang Vaatz
Third Place: Niveet Nagpal, Omi Gems Inc.
Alfie Norville Women in Excellence Award: Jutta Munsteiner, Somewhere In The Rainbow, with contributor Tom Munsteiner (cutter)
Honorable Mention: Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore LLC
Honorable Mention: Dallas Prince, Dallas Prince Designs
Honorable Mention: Robin Callahan, Robin Callahan Designs LLC
Classical
First Place: Beatrix Laura Jessner, B & W Jewels LLC
Second Place: Yehouda Saketkhou, Yael Designs
Third Place: Niveet Nagpal, Omi Gems Inc.
Alfie Norville Women in Excellence Award: Mary van der Aa, Mary van der Aa Fine Jewels, with contributor Tucson Todd’s Gems (gemstone supplier)
Honorable Mention: Jutta Munsteiner, Munsteiner USA LLC
Platinum Honors: Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore LLC, with contributor Cuprian & Co. (supplier)
See: The Spectrum First-Place Winners
Bridal Wear, First Place. Christina Penuel of Mark Loren Designs’ 14-karat yellow gold earrings featuring Yangtze pearls accented by sapphires (3.04 carats) and amethyst (0.88 carats)
Business/Day Wear, First Place. Maia Carlson of Weber Goldsmith Gallery with contributor Brad Weber’s platinum “Mariana” ring featuring an 18.44-carat concave-cut aquamarine accented by step-cut diamonds (1.55 carats) and pavé-set diamonds (0.34 carats)
Classical, First Place. Beatrix Laura Jessner of B & W Jewels LLC’s platinum convertible ring or pendant featuring a 2.04-carat Paraíba tourmaline accented by diamonds (3.99 carats)
Engagement Rings, First Place. Niveet Nagpal of Omi Gems Inc.’s platinum ring featuring a 10.08-carat tsavorite garnet accented by tsavorite garnets (0.60 carats) and diamonds (0.66 carats)
Evening Wear, First Place. Joseph Dardashti of Joseph Dardashti Ltd. and Sophia D. Karmel’s platinum and 18-karat yellow gold “Sophia D En Tremblant Butterfly” brooch featuring emeralds (0.55 carats), rubies (3.02 carats), sapphires (0.65 carats), and diamonds (7.55 carats)
Men’s Wear, First Place. Craig Slavens of Luxe Fine Jewelry’s platinum “Blue Me Away” ring featuring a 13.59-carat bezel-set cabochon cat’s eye blue topaz accented by ombré blue sapphires (2.16 carats) and diamonds (1.45 carats)
Engagement Rings
First Place: Niveet Nagpal, Omi Gems Inc.
Second Place: Nikki Swift, Nicole Mera LLC
Third Place: Jeffrey Bilgore, Jeffrey Bilgore LLC
Alfie Norville Women in Excellence Award: Robin Callahan, Robin Callahan Designs LLC with contributor Color Source Gems (sapphire supplier)
Honorable Mention: Yehouda Saketkhou, Yael Designs
Platinum Honors: Underwoods Design Team, Underwoods Fine Jewelers
Evening Wear
First Place: Joseph Dardashti, Joseph Dardashti Ltd. and Sophia D.
Second Place: Adam Neeley, Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry Inc.
Third Place: Phillip Dismuke, Jewelsmith Inc.
Alfie Norville Women in Excellence Award and Honorable Mention: Sonya Konstantinovsky, Sonya K.
Honorable Mention: Raja Mehta, AG Gems
Platinum Honors: Marie Fellhauer, Holly Hawks Curations LLC, with contributor Southern Diamond Jewelers (bench jeweler)
Men’s Wear
First Place and Platinum Honors: Craig Slavens, Luxe Fine Jewelry
Second Place: Matthew Tuggle, Tuggle Designs, with contributors Lauren Tuggle (co-designer and hand engraver), Ryan Anderson (lapidary artist), and Kyle Forgey (supporting jeweler)
Third Place: Zoltan David, Somewhere In The Rainbow, with contributor Bruce Bridges (supplier and cutting)
Alfie Norville Women in Excellence Award: Robin Callahan, Robin Callahan Designs LLC and Tom Munsteiner (lapidary artist)
Honorable Mention: Rodney Rahmani, Brilliant Stars
Honorable Mention: Dallas Prince, Dallas Prince Designs
Editors’ Choice Awards
Editor’s Choice, Spectrum. Adam Neeley of Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry Inc.’s titanium and 14-karat white gold “Cromatica” earrings featuring tanzanite (20.66 carats) and garnet (23.62 carats) accented by diamonds (1.26 carats)
Editor’s Choice, Cutting Edge. An 18.82-carat elongated concave pear-shaped sunstone from Christopher Wolfsberg in collaboration with Nirinjan Kalsa
Spectrum: Adam Neeley, Adam Neeley Fine Art Jewelry Inc.
Cutting Edge: Christopher Wolfsberg in collaboration with Nirinjan Kalsa
Here are the winners of the 2024 Cutting Edge Awards.
All Other Cut Gemstones
First Place: Joseph Ambalu, Amba Gem Corp.
Second Place: Mikola Kukharuk, Nomad’s
Third Place: Nancy Attaway, High Country Gems
Honorable Mention: Ben Kho, Kho International
Honorable Mention: Mikola Kukharuk, Nomad’s
Carving
First Place: Patrick Dreher, Dreher Carvings LLC
Second Place: Dalan Hargrave, GemStarz Jewelry, with contributor Don Buford (owner)
Third Place: Don Johnson, Obsessed Over Gems, with contributor Meg Berry
Honorable Mention: Robert Procop, Robert Procop Exceptional Jewels, with contributor Meg Berry (faceter)
Classic Gemstones
First Place: Allen Kleiman, A. Kleiman & Co.
Second Place: Ron Rahmanan, Sara Gem
Third Place: William Hakimi, A. Hakimi & Sons
Honorable Mention: Ron Rahmanan, Sara Gem
Innovative Faceting
First Place: Lee Haynes, LWH Gems
Second Place: Rodney Rahmani, Brilliant Stars
Third Place: Justin Cruz, Red Deer’s Customs & Throwing Stones, with contributors Derek Katzenbach (cutter) and Rusty James (co-owner)
Honorable Mention: Steven Manchini, Steven Tyler the Designer
Honorable Mention: Steven Manchini, Steven Tyler the Designer, with contributor Doug Malby
See: The Cutting Edge First-Place Winners
All Other Cut Gemstones, First Place. Joseph Ambalu of Amba Gem Corp.’s 27.42-carat cushion-cut Paraíba tourmaline
Carving, First Place. Patrick Dreher of Dreher Carvings LLC’s “The Encounter” carving featuring an 1105-gram agate geode with calcite and geothite inside accented by onyx
Classic Gemstones, First Place. Allen Kleiman of A. Kleiman & Co.’s 8.33-carat emerald-cut Brazilian no-oil emerald that AGTA called a “once-in-a-lifetime stone.”
Innovative Faceting, First Place. Lee Haynes of LWH Gems’ 54-carat mixed-cut wave pavilion with nouveau deco crown aquamarine titled “Deco Nouveau”
North American Mined Gemstones, First Place. John Dyer of John Dyer Gems’ 33-carat Rock Creek sapphire titled “The Montana Sun Sapphire”
Objects of Art, First Place. Philip Louer of North American Gem Carvers LLC, with contributors Nicolai Medvedev and Susan Helmich’s “Blue Boy” intarsia box featuring a 22-karat gold carving of a stingray accented by Australian opal, Virgin Valley opal, maw sit sit, Nevada turquoise, golden quartz, sugilite, malachite, dinosaur bone, diamonds, and tourmaline (2.20 carats)
Pairs and Suites, First Place. Niveet Nagpal of Omi Gems, Inc.’s suite of Sri Lankan cushion-cut blue sapphires (114.89 total carats)
Phenomenal, First Place. Ruben Bindra of B & B Fine Gems’ 10.15-carat round cabochon Australian black opal
North American Mined Gemstones
First Place: John Dyer, John Dyer Gems
Second Place: Ben Kho, Kho International
Third Place: Ben Kho, Kho International
Objects of Art
First Place: Philip Louer, North American Gem Carvers LLC
Second Place: Desmond Chan, Gem Arts International, with contributor Yan Ge (carver)
Third Place: Rodney Rahmani, Brilliant Stars
Pairs & Suites
First Place: Niveet Nagpal, Omi Gems Inc.
Second Place: Joseph Ambalu, Amba Gem Corp.
Third Place: Ruben Bindra, B & B Fine Gems
Honorable Mention: David Nassi, 100% Natural Ltd., with contributor Kenneth Blount
Honorable Mention: Bruce Bridges, Somewhere In The Rainbow
Phenomenal
First Place: Ruben Bindra, B & B Fine Gems
Second Place: Jaimeen Shah, Prima Gems USA LLC
Third Place: Adam Gil, Jerry Gil & Company
Honorable Mention: Itamar Pimenta, Pentagon Gem
Sponsor Platinum Guild International gives out the “Best Use of Platinum and Color” and “Best Use of Platinum Crown” awards.
It also sponsors “Platinum Honors,” which recognizes the outstanding use of platinum in colored gemstone and/or cultured pearl jewelry in six Spectrum Awards categories.
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