This suede necklace featuring three René Boivin brooches once belonged to Barbara “Babe” Paley, an American socialite, editor, tastemaker and one of Truman Capote’s “Swans.” It’s estimated to sell for up to $180,000 at Doyle’s jewelry auction on Oct. 30.
Editor's Note: This story was updated post-publication to include the price the clip-brooches sold for at auction.
For the high-society women of New York in the ‘50s and ‘60s, luxury wasn’t just reserved for special occasions; it was an everyday way of life.
For the best example of the socialites’ refined style, one needs look no further than former Vogue editor Barbara “Babe” Paley, a fashion icon regularly featured in the “best dressed” lists of the time.
An elegant piece once owned by Paley, who died in 1978, featuring three René Boivin gold, diamond and ruby pendant clip-brooches went up for sale at Doyle’s New York jewelry auction, which took place Oct. 30.
It sold for $121,150 against an estimate of $120,000-$180,000.
The clip brooches are made in 18-karat gold and feature 36 old-mine, old-mine oval, and old European-cut diamonds totaling 35 carats, as well as 96 round rubies, and signed R. Boivin, with maker’s marks and French assay marks.
The three René Boivin clip brooches are set in 18-karat gold and feature 96 rubies as well as 35 carats of diamonds.
The clips can be removed for conversion to a necklace.
The sale of Paley’s clip brooches includes two suede necklets, one black (as seen as the top of the article), and one red, each with adjustable leather straps and buckle-form clasps, also with maker’s marks and French assay marks.
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Paley was the wife of CBS founder William S. Paley and notably, one of author Truman Capote’s closest friends in his inner circle of socialites, whom he called his “Swans.”
The scandal-filled true story of the group was told on FX earlier this year in the second installment of Ryan Murphy’s “Feud” anthology.
“Feud: Capote vs. The Swans” is based on the bestselling book “Capote’s Women: A True Story of Love, Betrayal, and a Swan Song for an Era” by Laurence Leamer.
The role of Paley is played by Naomi Watts, who reportedly had 160 costume changes in the first four episodes alone.
An article published by Sotheby’s breaking down the costume design for the show said the jewels on set, including those by Van Cleef & Arpels, Belperron, Cartier and Verdura, are all real, and of course, required extra security on set.
The auction house’s Vice Chairman of Jewelry Frank Everett said in the article that he was struck by the “working” nature of the real Swans’ jewelry collections.
“Pieces were chosen not only for their beauty and design, but for their correctness for an outfit and appropriateness for the occasion. Plain gold pieces for day, a few diamonds for cocktail and glamorous showstoppers for dinner/evening. Jewels were truly seen as fashion accessories, as well as precious objects of value. The jewels were worn to make a Swan look beautiful, elegant, and tasteful, not just rich.”
This piece previously was offered in Sotheby’s 2016 sale, “Magnificent Jewels Including Property From the Collection of Marjorie S. Fisher, Palm Beach,” and in its 1992 Magnificent Jewels sale featuring jewelry from Paley’s estate.
Prior to the Doyle auction, the lots will travel to its regional locations including Boston; Charleston, South Carolina; Palm Beach, Florida; and Beverly Hills, California; and it will be on view in New York City from Oct. 26-28.
