Sourcing

Fantasy Cut Inventor Bernd Munsteiner Dies at 81

SourcingJun 17, 2024

Fantasy Cut Inventor Bernd Munsteiner Dies at 81

Known to many as the “Picasso of gems" who modernized the gem cutting field, he is remembered by his family as going through life with open eyes.

Bernd Munsteiner
Bernd Munsteiner, the gem cutter renowned for developing the fantasy cut, died on June 6 surrounded by his family in Stipshausen, Germany.
Stipshausen, Germany—Bernd Munsteiner, the inventor of the fantasy cut, died on June 6 at age 81.

He was surrounded by his family in Stipshausen, Germany. 

Often credited as the artist who modernized gem cutting, Munsteiner’s non-conventional style focused on concave cuts made on the back of precious gemstones.

Today, his works are featured in dozens of museums across the world, and many reside in major global gem collections. 

Munsteiner was born on March 2, 1943, to a gem-cutting family, and he began working as an apprentice at age 14. He studied at the Pforzheim School of Design in Germany and won his first award for his craft at age 25.

Munsteiner set out to challenge traditional cutting methods, which were, in the 1960s, based on a strict set of specifications. He eventually developed the style he’s well-known for—the fantasy cut. 

It took time for his new methods to reach the level of popularity they have today, but Munsteiner continued his work.

He established Munsteiner Atelier in Stipshausen in 1973 and created many masterpieces over the course of his life, such as the “Dom Pedro Aquamarine,” which is considered the world’s largest cut aquamarine and likely Munsteiner’s most notable creation. 

Bernd Munsteiner Dom Pedro Aquamarine
Bernd Munsteiner’s “Dom Pedro Aquamarine” weighs more than 10,000 carats.

Made in 1993, it took 10 months to complete. The finished piece is 2 feet tall and weighs 10,363 carats. It resides in the National Gem Hall at the Smithsonian Natural History Museum, near the Hope Diamond.   

Another masterpiece, “Metamorphosis,” is a Brazilian rutilated quartz weighing 2,900,000 carats.

Bernd Munsteiner Metamorphosis
“Metamorphosis” was part of the private collection belonging to Michael Scott, the first president of Apple Computer, with whom Bernd had a unique relationship with for many years. It once resided in the company’s California headquarters.


Jewelry designer Susan Helmich first came across one of Munsteiner’s pieces in 1984 while at the Tucson gem shows. She flew to Germany to find the gem cutter and was able to locate his atelier. 

She introduced herself, purchased more pieces that day, and the two continued their friendship, with Helmich telling AGTA that Munsteiner was her “North Star … confidante, colleague and inspiring artist.”

Shelly Sergent, curator of the Somewhere in the Rainbow (SITR) collection, said Helmich introduced her to Munsteiner.

“There was an immediate connection to the stunning works of gem art they produced, both masterful and exemplary in every detail, which SITR stands for. The gemstone and jewelry relationship was a natural fit for us. But more importantly, being invited by Bernd into their home, gardens and sanctuary in Germany was like sharing time with gemstone royalty. An intimate experience that will never be forgotten and led to a deeper understanding of the richness and the passion of the Munsteiner legacy,” she said.

Munsteiner’s legacy will be carried on through his family.

In the later years of his career, he spent three years working with his son, Tom, who died a little over six months ago, creating agate windows for the family’s church in Germany.

The two are remembered by their family for their character, ethics, charm, love and passion.

Munsteiner agate church windows
The church windows created by Bernd and his son Tom are approximately 8 feet tall and 3 feet wide, made of agate cut into 1-inch squares and one-half inch triangles.


“Our hearts are broken at the loss of Bernd and Tom, and yet, the world is brighter, and we are proud to showcase these remarkable art pieces for generations to come to know. I will always be grateful for my time with this extraordinary man, who always had a smile and always shared his time freely,” Sergent said.

She added that her first and only gem carving, a rutilated quartz that she calls “a treasure for [her] life,” was produced working alongside Bernd and Tom Munsteiner.

Bernd Munsteiner is survived by his wife of nearly 60 years, Hanne; his daughter-in-law Jutta, who was married to Tom; and his grandson Philipp, all of whom will continue the family business as the fifth generation of Munsteiner cutters.

Munsteiner family
Bernd, Hanne, Jutta, and Tom

“Bernd loved and enjoyed his family the most. Getting up in the morning to start the day with his family and then going straight to his passion for gemstones,” said Jutta. 

“He was a very cheerful person and brought back something he found from every walk to inspire new gemstone designs. Going through life with open eyes was his motto.”

Philipp said Bernd “opened the door to the magical world of gemstones” for him and his father.

Munsteiner family
Bernd, Tom, Philipp, and Jutta


“He was the first to change the way gemstones were cut and I am very proud of him and am his biggest fan,” he added. 

“With a lot of patience and love, he taught me how to cut at an early age. Bernd looked after me during every phase of my childhood and is therefore my childhood hero. He left a mark in my heart and will remain in my memory forever. I am very grateful that I was able to spend so much time with him.” 

Munsteiner was pre-deceased by Tom, as well as his other son, Jörg, both of whom were accomplished gem cutters. 

Sergent added, “[The gem community] shares the sorrow of Bernd’s passing, but we more so celebrate the life he lived and the colorful and memorable gifts he shared with the whole world. Godspeed, Bernd Munsteiner, and thank you.” 


Lauren McLemoreis the associate editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments.

The Latest

Pippa Small Myanmar Fish Cluster
CollectionsAug 14, 2025
In Midst of ‘Sardine Girl Summer,’ Pippa Small Looks to ‘Flounder Fall’

Her new “Ocean” collection was inspired by Myanmar’s traditional articulated fish jewelry, with depictions of flounder, catfish, and more.

Casio America CEO Yusuke Suzuki
MajorsAug 14, 2025
Casio America Names New CEO

Longtime Casio executive Yusuke Suzuki is the new president and CEO of Casio’s U.S. subsidiary.

Cristiano Ronaldo and Stephanie Gottlieb Ring
TrendsAug 13, 2025
Cristiano Ronaldo Proposes With Gigantic Oval-Cut Diamond

Model Georgina Rodríguez received a rock of an engagement ring, with her diamond estimated to be 35 carats, experts say.

rio-article photo-diamond.jpg
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine Jewelry

As a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.

Whiskey Barrel Ring
TrendsAug 13, 2025
Colorado Jeweler, Whiskey Maker Collab on Ring Giveaway

Three winners will receive a custom ring from Honest Hands Ring Co. inlaid with a piece of history from Denver-based distillery Stranahan’s.

Weekly QuizAug 08, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
People shopping in a mall
SurveysAug 13, 2025
These Are The 25 Hottest Retailers, Says NRF

JD Sports and Wawa were among the fastest-growing retail companies in the U.S. last year.

Columbia Gem House Winza sapphires and rubies
SourcingAug 13, 2025
Columbia Gem House Launches Winza Sapphires, Rubies

The new inventory, all untreated, features vibrant hues and unique bicolor combinations.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

Gemfields Faberge
SourcingAug 12, 2025
Gemfields Sells Fabergé for $50M

Acquired by a tech investor, the historic brand will continue to focus on jewelry, accessories, and timepieces.

Shipping containers on a ship
Policies & IssuesAug 12, 2025
Higher Tariff on Chinese Imports Paused for 90 Days, Trump Says

President Donald Trump issued an executive order extending the pause on higher tariffs to November as negotiations with China continue.

Jacquie Aiche Thunderbird Slab Collection Campaign
CollectionsAug 12, 2025
Jacquie Aiche’s New Collection Harnesses the Energy of the Thunderbird

The “Thunderbird Slab” collection features a thunderbird motif as a symbol of power, protection, and boundless possibility.

Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams
ColumnistsAug 12, 2025
Creative Connecting: How to Take a Better Headshot

Columnists Jen Cullen Williams and Duvall O’Steen share tips on how to elevate your professional image.

Vigil for slain Wheat Ridge, Colorado jeweler Peter Damian Arguello
CrimeAug 11, 2025
Man Convicted of First-Degree Murder in Death of Colorado Jeweler

Peter Damian Arguello, a jeweler in the Denver suburb of Wheat Ridge, was found dead inside his store in November 2023.

Lisa Bridge
IndependentsAug 11, 2025
Lisa Bridge to Depart Ben Bridge Jeweler

The retailer, owned by Berkshire Hathaway, is becoming part of the Berkshire Hathaway Jewelry Group with Helzberg.

Bethenny Frankel
Events & AwardsAug 11, 2025
Bethenny Frankel to Give Keynote at CBG’s Experience Show

The Continental Buying Group’s 2025 Tampa Experience Show is slated for Sept. 8-10.

Nora Kühner fashion design consulting trend forecast colors 2027
EditorsAug 11, 2025
The Colors Expected to Be On-Trend in a Couple Years

Associate Editor Lauren McLemore recently attended a fabrics trade show where a trend forecaster shared her predictions for summer 2027.

Brilliant Earth Jolie Mosaics engagement ring
FinancialsAug 08, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s Q2 Sales Up 3% as Engagement Ring Sales Rise

The company raised its full-year sales guidance while noting it has not yet assessed the potential impact of the latest tariff news.

Jewellers for Hope charity event
Events & AwardsAug 08, 2025
GJEPC’s Jewellers for Hope Celebrates 10 Years of Fundraising

The organization has raised more than $1.3 million for charity since its inception.

Rahaminov Diamonds Emerald-Cut Diamond Bezel Bangle
TrendsAug 08, 2025
Piece of the Week: Rahaminov Diamonds’ Bezel Bangle

The brand’s latest iteration of a bezel-set diamond bangle features clean lines and a timeless design for a new modern silhouette.

Black and white photo of Tony Bennett near a microphone
WatchesAug 07, 2025
Bulova’s New Collection Honors Tony Bennett

The first watch in the series commemorates his participation in the Civil Rights movement, marching from Selma to Montgomery in 1965.

Sapphire page in Chatham’s “Ultimate Lab-Grown Catalog”
Lab-GrownAug 07, 2025
Chatham Releases Catalog for Loose Lab-Grown Gemstones

The catalog contains a complete listing of all the loose gemstones in stock, as well as information about the properties of each stone.

Rembrandt Blue Jay, Hummingbird, Cardinal Bird Charms
TechnologyAug 07, 2025
Rembrandt Charms Debuts New Website, Bird Charms

The company added a retailer dashboard to its site and three new birds to its charm collection, the cardinal, blue jay, and hummingbird.

Shipping containers on a ship
Policies & IssuesAug 06, 2025
Tariff on India to Rise to 50%, Trump Says

An additional 25 percent tariff has been added to the previously announced 25 percent.

Claire’s storefront
MajorsAug 06, 2025
Claire’s Files for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy Again

The jewelry and accessories retailer plans to close 18 stores as part of the proceedings.

Smith & Son Jewelers storefront Springfield Massachusetts
IndependentsAug 06, 2025
Smith & Son Jewelers to Close 107-Year-Old Location

Its Springfield, Massachusetts, store is set to close as owner Andrew Smith heads into retirement.

Zahn-Z Beluga Spout Grey Spinel Ring and Beluga Spout Mandarin Garnet Ring
CollectionsAug 06, 2025
Zahn-Z Swims With Whales in ‘Beluga’ Collection

Designer Hiba Husayni looked to the whale’s melon shaped-head, blowhole, and fluke for her new chunky gold offerings.

Paola De Luca presenting Trendbook 2026+ at Vicenzaoro
TrendsAug 06, 2025
Paola De Luca to Release Trendbook 2027+

She will present the 23rd edition of the trend forecasting book at Vicenzaoro on Sept. 7.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy