EditorsJul 29, 2022
The Jewelry Industry Remembers Castro: A Complicated, Magical DesignerEditorsMar 01, 2024
Pieces of the Week: A Tribute to Marina B
We remember the late Marina Bulgari through her best work, from timeless tubogas to a museum-worthy emerald collar.
From unique gemstone cuts to this emerald and diamond collar “fit for a museum,” here are some of the best creations from the late Marina Bulgari, better known as Marina B. (Photo courtesy of Windsor Jewelers)
We interrupt our regularly scheduled “Piece of the Week” to bring you this multi-piece tribute to Marina Bulgari, the influential jewelry designer who died last month at age 93.
Marina, born in July 1930, was the granddaughter of Bulgari founder and Greek silversmith Sotirios Voulgaris (Bulgari in Italian). Her father, Constantino Bulgari, was the eldest of Sotirios’ six children.
When Sotirios died in 1932, Constantino and Marina’s uncle, Giorgio Bulgari, took over the family business.
Jewelry—specifically Bulgari—art, and design were constants in Marina’s life while she was growing up in Rome.
She attended college in England and after graduation, returned to Italy and began contributing designs to the Bulgari studio.
Marina was a “vital asset” to the family business but decided to branch out on her own in 1976 with her own brand, Marina B.
She opened her first boutique in Geneva, Switzerland, and additional stores followed in Paris, Milan, and New York.
The brand became a celebrity staple in the ‘80s—Elizabeth Taylor wore Marina B, as did Sophia Loren—and is still popular today, a testament to Marina’s timeless touch.
Singer Alicia Keys sported a Marina B collar when she sang the national anthem at the 2013 Super Bowl, and other celebrities, including Beyoncé, Angela Bassett, Taylor Swift, and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, have worn the brand in recent years.
Following Marina’s passing, I asked Windsor Jewelers CEO Paul Lubetsky, whose company retains a minority stake in Marina B, and one of the current stewards of the brand, Creative Director Guy Bedarida, to share their favorites from the Marina B archives.
Paul Lubetsky
Marina, born in July 1930, was the granddaughter of Bulgari founder and Greek silversmith Sotirios Voulgaris (Bulgari in Italian). Her father, Constantino Bulgari, was the eldest of Sotirios’ six children.
When Sotirios died in 1932, Constantino and Marina’s uncle, Giorgio Bulgari, took over the family business.
Jewelry—specifically Bulgari—art, and design were constants in Marina’s life while she was growing up in Rome.
She attended college in England and after graduation, returned to Italy and began contributing designs to the Bulgari studio.
Marina was a “vital asset” to the family business but decided to branch out on her own in 1976 with her own brand, Marina B.
She opened her first boutique in Geneva, Switzerland, and additional stores followed in Paris, Milan, and New York.
The brand became a celebrity staple in the ‘80s—Elizabeth Taylor wore Marina B, as did Sophia Loren—and is still popular today, a testament to Marina’s timeless touch.
Singer Alicia Keys sported a Marina B collar when she sang the national anthem at the 2013 Super Bowl, and other celebrities, including Beyoncé, Angela Bassett, Taylor Swift, and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, have worn the brand in recent years.
Following Marina’s passing, I asked Windsor Jewelers CEO Paul Lubetsky, whose company retains a minority stake in Marina B, and one of the current stewards of the brand, Creative Director Guy Bedarida, to share their favorites from the Marina B archives.
Paul Lubetsky
Lubetsky shared this “impressive” earring and collar suite, which features black onyx, cabochon blue sapphires, and white diamonds in Marina’s invention and signature gemstone cut, the “Castagna.” (Photo courtesy of Windsor Jewelers)
Marina was known for her bold collars, but Lubetsky said this “spectacular” diamond and emerald example was her most impressive. “It’s truly a work of art fit for a museum,” he said. (Photo courtesy of Windsor Jewelers)
Marina’s innovations did not stop at gemstone cuts, Lubetsky said. She also had an engineering approach to design, with her “Cardan” collection featuring a joint-like mechanism inspired by her love of sailboat racing. Lubetsky noted that Marina remains the only female sailboat owner in history to win a world sailing championship; she secured the title in 1973 with her boat “Ydra” in Porto Cervo, Italy. This 18-karat gold Cardan necklace features pearl, citrine, and black jade. (Photo courtesy of Windsor Jewelers)
“I was fortunate to know Ms. Bulgari when I was CEO and owner of Marina B in 2010,” Lubetsky said.
“Her pioneering work on specialty cut gemstones and engineering innovations have left an undeniable mark on our industry, and she will be greatly missed.”
Related stories will be right here …
“Her pioneering work on specialty cut gemstones and engineering innovations have left an undeniable mark on our industry, and she will be greatly missed.”
Guy Bedarida
Bedarida, who bought a majority stake in Marina B in 2017, highlighted the designs of five collections, “Onda,” “Trisola,” “Trisolina,” “Triangoli,” and “Triangolini.”
Pieces from the “Onda” collection. This was the first collection Marina introduced in 1978, and it is remarkable for its novel use of a spring as the core of a choker, Bedarida said. The undulating lines found in depictions of water in Japanese woodcuts inspired the designer. (Photo courtesy of Marina B)
Two Marina B “Trisola” cuffs. Trisola was Marina’s tubogas collection that Bedarida described as “magisterial in scale and sublimely simple in conception.” (Photo courtesy of Marina B)
The little sister to Trisola, “Trisolina” is more slender and lower profile than its big sister. In selecting Trisolina, Bedarida noted, “The best of Marina’s work often bore a certain relation to armor, enveloping its wearer in a shining carapace of glamour that emphasized the strength of those who wore it.” (Photo courtesy of Marina B)
The “Triangoli” collection was a collection of chance. Marina created it after coming across a stash of triangle-shaped diamonds that had been intended for use as engagement ring side stones but instead were gathering dust in an Antwerp diamond dealer’s office. Bedarida said the collection illustrates Marina’s ability to see jewelry from a different angle and to “elevate the previously pedestrian.” (Photo courtesy of Marina B)
“Triangolini” is Triangoli’s less flashy but still chic cousin. Bedarida said Marina created the line to be easier to wear during the day, with smaller triangles and fewer diamonds. (Photo courtesy of Marina B)
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
More on Editors
The Latest
IndependentsMar 14, 2025
Stafford’s Diamonds in Ohio to Close After 40 YearsThe Dayton-based jeweler, which has been in business since 1985, was formerly known as Stafford Jewelers.
Events & AwardsMar 14, 2025
JVC Reveals Recipient of Stanley Schechter AwardReeds Jewelers CEO Alan Zimmer will be presented with the honor at JVC’s annual luncheon.
CollectionsMar 14, 2025
Piece of the Week: Sorellina’s Aries Zodiac PendantThe piece, celebrating birthdays from March 21 to April 19, debuted with Sorellina’s new line of astrological pendants.
Brought to you by
Watch: GIA Field Gemology at the One-Hundredth Expedition: A Look Back and to the FutureSupplier Spotlight Sponsored by GIA
MajorsMar 13, 2025
Tanishq Opens 2 New Stores in the U.S.The Indian jewelry brand recently opened stores in Atlanta and Seattle.
Weekly QuizMar 14, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
FinancialsMar 13, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s 2024 Sales Struggled Amid Engagement RecoveryCEO Beth Gerstein shared its most popular price points, what’s trending in non-bridal fine jewelry, and its holiday performance.
CollectionsMar 13, 2025
Chopard Unveils High Jewelry Collection Created From 6,225-Carat Emerald The 15 pieces were crafted from the “Insofu” emerald, discovered in Zambia in 2010.
Brought to you by
Natural Diamonds Should Mean MoreNatural diamonds mean more than lab-grown, but when every cut is ideal, they all look the same. Customers want more—Facets of Fire delivers.
MajorsMar 13, 2025
Jewelers Mutual Names New CFO, TreasurerChris Anderson is joining the insurance provider as the new chief financial officer and treasurer.
Lab-GrownMar 13, 2025
JA Offering Some ‘Counter Intelligence’ on Diamonds Jewelers of America is distributing a brochure for retailers to use when discussing the differences between natural and lab-grown diamonds.
SourcingMar 12, 2025
5 Factors That Will Impact the Diamond Industry in 2025The industry is changing as it grapples with new realities around distribution, supply, and the need for consistent, effective marketing.
SourcingMar 12, 2025
Q&A: New GJEPC Chairman Kirit BhansaliBhansali discusses the potential impact of U.S. tariffs, demand for diamonds by market, and the “cautious confidence” in India right now.
Lab-GrownMar 12, 2025
Beyond Jewelry: Possibilities in the Lab-Grown Diamond SectorAs lab-grown diamond brands pop up across India, academics are researching how to grow demand outside of the jewelry industry.
SourcingMar 12, 2025
Indian Leader, Retailer Among 2025 DDG Honorees Govind Dholakia and Tanishq will be recognized for their contributions to the industry at the Diamonds Do Good Awards in Las Vegas.
IndependentsMar 12, 2025
Marla Aaron Migrates to LondonThe New York City-based brand has opened its first U.K. location with a permanent shop-in-shop at Liberty in London.
AuctionsMar 12, 2025
A Medieval Bishop’s Sapphire Ring Is Going Up for SaleA metal detectorist discovered the ring that is believed to have belonged to a bishop in the late 12th to early 13th century.
Events & AwardsMar 12, 2025
JA New York Announces Education, Live Demo LineupsOrganizers looked to new partnerships and interactive experiences to enhance the spring show, set for March 16 to 18.
Events & AwardsMar 12, 2025
Bogolo Joy Kenewendo to Speak at Annual JVC LuncheonKenewendo, Botswana’s minister of minerals and energy, will discuss the future of diamonds.
CrimeMar 11, 2025
Man in Florida Swallows Allegedly Stolen Tiffany & Co. Jewelry The suspect allegedly stole almost $800,000 worth of diamond jewelry from a store in Orlando and then swallowed it during a traffic stop.
ColumnistsMar 11, 2025
Creative Connecting: How to Pose on the Red CarpetAhead of the Gem Awards on Friday, Jen Cullen Williams and Duvall O’Steen share pro tips for taking the best photos.
CollectionsMar 11, 2025
Marco Bicego Celebrates 25 Years With Collection, CampaignFounded in 2000, Marco Bicego is commemorating its milestone anniversary with a “25 Best” collection and campaigns honoring its heritage.
TechnologyMar 11, 2025
Hill & Co. Launches New B2B Buyer DatabaseThose attending the company’s upcoming Zoom workshop will receive early access to “The List,” its new resource for finding buyers.
Events & AwardsMar 11, 2025
JSA to Honor GIA Employee at Annual LuncheonThe organization will present an award to Amy-Elise Signeavsky, law enforcement and diamond recovery manager at GIA.
MajorsMar 10, 2025
Terry Chandler to Retire After 24 Years as Head of DCA Chandler started his jewelry career at Michelson Jewelers, joining the Diamond Council of America as president and CEO in 2001.
CollectionsMar 10, 2025
MaeVona Co-Founder Debuts 3D-Printed ‘Tùsaire’ CollectionScottish American designer Maeve Gillies collaborated with Platinum Guild International on jewelry created by direct metal 3D printing.
Events & AwardsMar 10, 2025
The Jewelry Symposium Announces 2025 Scholarship WinnersAhead of its trade show in May, TJS awarded free registration and accommodations to five up-and-coming jewelry industry professionals.
Events & AwardsMar 10, 2025
These Designers, Journalists, and Retailers Are Up for a Gem Award The 2025 Gem Awards are set to take place Friday at Cipriani 42nd Street in New York City.
