EditorsJul 29, 2022
The Jewelry Industry Remembers Castro: A Complicated, Magical DesignerEditorsMar 01, 2024
Pieces of the Week: A Tribute to Marina B
We remember the late Marina Bulgari through her best work, from timeless tubogas to a museum-worthy emerald collar.
From unique gemstone cuts to this emerald and diamond collar “fit for a museum,” here are some of the best creations from the late Marina Bulgari, better known as Marina B. (Photo courtesy of Windsor Jewelers)
We interrupt our regularly scheduled “Piece of the Week” to bring you this multi-piece tribute to Marina Bulgari, the influential jewelry designer who died last month at age 93.
Marina, born in July 1930, was the granddaughter of Bulgari founder and Greek silversmith Sotirios Voulgaris (Bulgari in Italian). Her father, Constantino Bulgari, was the eldest of Sotirios’ six children.
When Sotirios died in 1932, Constantino and Marina’s uncle, Giorgio Bulgari, took over the family business.
Jewelry—specifically Bulgari—art, and design were constants in Marina’s life while she was growing up in Rome.
She attended college in England and after graduation, returned to Italy and began contributing designs to the Bulgari studio.
Marina was a “vital asset” to the family business but decided to branch out on her own in 1976 with her own brand, Marina B.
She opened her first boutique in Geneva, Switzerland, and additional stores followed in Paris, Milan, and New York.
The brand became a celebrity staple in the ‘80s—Elizabeth Taylor wore Marina B, as did Sophia Loren—and is still popular today, a testament to Marina’s timeless touch.
Singer Alicia Keys sported a Marina B collar when she sang the national anthem at the 2013 Super Bowl, and other celebrities, including Beyoncé, Angela Bassett, Taylor Swift, and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, have worn the brand in recent years.
Following Marina’s passing, I asked Windsor Jewelers CEO Paul Lubetsky, whose company retains a minority stake in Marina B, and one of the current stewards of the brand, Creative Director Guy Bedarida, to share their favorites from the Marina B archives.
Paul Lubetsky
Marina, born in July 1930, was the granddaughter of Bulgari founder and Greek silversmith Sotirios Voulgaris (Bulgari in Italian). Her father, Constantino Bulgari, was the eldest of Sotirios’ six children.
When Sotirios died in 1932, Constantino and Marina’s uncle, Giorgio Bulgari, took over the family business.
Jewelry—specifically Bulgari—art, and design were constants in Marina’s life while she was growing up in Rome.
She attended college in England and after graduation, returned to Italy and began contributing designs to the Bulgari studio.
Marina was a “vital asset” to the family business but decided to branch out on her own in 1976 with her own brand, Marina B.
She opened her first boutique in Geneva, Switzerland, and additional stores followed in Paris, Milan, and New York.
The brand became a celebrity staple in the ‘80s—Elizabeth Taylor wore Marina B, as did Sophia Loren—and is still popular today, a testament to Marina’s timeless touch.
Singer Alicia Keys sported a Marina B collar when she sang the national anthem at the 2013 Super Bowl, and other celebrities, including Beyoncé, Angela Bassett, Taylor Swift, and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, have worn the brand in recent years.
Following Marina’s passing, I asked Windsor Jewelers CEO Paul Lubetsky, whose company retains a minority stake in Marina B, and one of the current stewards of the brand, Creative Director Guy Bedarida, to share their favorites from the Marina B archives.
Paul Lubetsky
Lubetsky shared this “impressive” earring and collar suite, which features black onyx, cabochon blue sapphires, and white diamonds in Marina’s invention and signature gemstone cut, the “Castagna.” (Photo courtesy of Windsor Jewelers)
Marina was known for her bold collars, but Lubetsky said this “spectacular” diamond and emerald example was her most impressive. “It’s truly a work of art fit for a museum,” he said. (Photo courtesy of Windsor Jewelers)
Marina’s innovations did not stop at gemstone cuts, Lubetsky said. She also had an engineering approach to design, with her “Cardan” collection featuring a joint-like mechanism inspired by her love of sailboat racing. Lubetsky noted that Marina remains the only female sailboat owner in history to win a world sailing championship; she secured the title in 1973 with her boat “Ydra” in Porto Cervo, Italy. This 18-karat gold Cardan necklace features pearl, citrine, and black jade. (Photo courtesy of Windsor Jewelers)
“I was fortunate to know Ms. Bulgari when I was CEO and owner of Marina B in 2010,” Lubetsky said.
“Her pioneering work on specialty cut gemstones and engineering innovations have left an undeniable mark on our industry, and she will be greatly missed.”
Related stories will be right here …
“Her pioneering work on specialty cut gemstones and engineering innovations have left an undeniable mark on our industry, and she will be greatly missed.”
Guy Bedarida
Bedarida, who bought a majority stake in Marina B in 2017, highlighted the designs of five collections, “Onda,” “Trisola,” “Trisolina,” “Triangoli,” and “Triangolini.”
Pieces from the “Onda” collection. This was the first collection Marina introduced in 1978, and it is remarkable for its novel use of a spring as the core of a choker, Bedarida said. The undulating lines found in depictions of water in Japanese woodcuts inspired the designer. (Photo courtesy of Marina B)
Two Marina B “Trisola” cuffs. Trisola was Marina’s tubogas collection that Bedarida described as “magisterial in scale and sublimely simple in conception.” (Photo courtesy of Marina B)
The little sister to Trisola, “Trisolina” is more slender and lower profile than its big sister. In selecting Trisolina, Bedarida noted, “The best of Marina’s work often bore a certain relation to armor, enveloping its wearer in a shining carapace of glamour that emphasized the strength of those who wore it.” (Photo courtesy of Marina B)
The “Triangoli” collection was a collection of chance. Marina created it after coming across a stash of triangle-shaped diamonds that had been intended for use as engagement ring side stones but instead were gathering dust in an Antwerp diamond dealer’s office. Bedarida said the collection illustrates Marina’s ability to see jewelry from a different angle and to “elevate the previously pedestrian.” (Photo courtesy of Marina B)
“Triangolini” is Triangoli’s less flashy but still chic cousin. Bedarida said Marina created the line to be easier to wear during the day, with smaller triangles and fewer diamonds. (Photo courtesy of Marina B)
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
More on Editors
The Latest
PodcastsJul 22, 2026
Episode 7: Reinhold Jewelers on the Power of RelationshipsMildred Marcano Abrams and Yael Reinhold join the podcast to talk community connections, holiday plans, and preserving Reinhold’s legacy.
Policies & IssuesJul 22, 2026
Trump to Put 50% Tariff on Canadian Goods The higher tax is set to go into effect in August and will apply to loose polished diamonds as well as precious and base metals jewelry.
CollectionsJul 22, 2026
Monica Rich Kosann’s High Jewelry Is FruitfulThe “Enchanted Garden” series features a cherry, lemon, and pear that each hold a little secret inside.
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center StageColored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.
IndependentsJul 22, 2026
Liljenquist Beckstead Opens Rolex New BoutiqueIt’s located in Tysons Galleria, an upscale shopping center in the Washington, D.C., metro area.
Weekly QuizJul 17, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Events & AwardsJul 22, 2026
NY Now Returns in August Under New OwnershipThe show, recently acquired by Rockview Management Group, will be held at New York City’s Javits Center from Aug. 2-4.
ColumnistsJul 21, 2026
Sherry Smith: Shattering the Illusion of the ‘Either/Or’ Diamond MarketSmith offers retailers guidance on creating an environment where natural and lab-grown diamonds can both thrive.
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce SolutionsDCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2026
Apollo Funds Completes Emerald AcquisitionFormer Emerald President and CEO Hervé Sedky has transitioned to the role of senior advisor.
CollectionsJul 21, 2026
Graff’s New Butterfly High Jewelry Brooches MetamorphosizeThe 12-piece capsule collection transforms from brooches to pendants.
SourcingJul 21, 2026
Anglo Reportedly Selects Gareth Penny’s Consortium as Top Bidder for De BeersA Botswana government official told lawmakers Anglo has selected The Global Diamond Consortium, an entity chaired by Penny, to buy De Beers.
Policies & IssuesJul 20, 2026
Tariffs on Brazil to Increase But Rough Gemstones ExemptThe new tariff, imposed after a Trump administration study, is 25 percent and will stack on top of existing tariffs.
CollectionsJul 20, 2026
Vhernier Transforms ‘Freccia’ Collection Into High JewelryThe collection from 2014 has been reinterpreted into high jewelry with its signature triangular-shaped elements.
MajorsJul 20, 2026
Krista Collins Walters Promoted to Publisher of InstoreShe will also take on the role of vice president of jewelry for SmartWork Media, a newly created position.
Events & AwardsJul 20, 2026
TJS Accepting Speaker Proposals for 2027 EventOrganizers are looking for presentations on topics like manufacturing, technology and research, bench work, gemstones, and sustainability.
CollectionsJul 17, 2026
HOWL Taps Shailene Woodley for ‘Home Sweet Home’ CampaignWoodley is seen in the campaign wearing our Piece of the Week, the “Frida” collar featuring 13 pieces of hand-carved Venetian glass.
SourcingJul 17, 2026
U.K. Woman Pays £5 for £15K Diamond Ring at Car Boot SaleA WeBuyVintage jewelry expert uncovered how much the flea market find was actually worth.
SourcingJul 17, 2026
Diamond Dealer Jeff Pancis Pens MemoirThe founder of natural colored diamond wholesaler Pancis Gems shares stories from his five decades in the industry.
Events & AwardsJul 17, 2026
Gem Awards Opens 2027 Nomination PeriodSubmissions for the milestone 25th annual Gem Awards will be accepted across three categories from now through July 31.
SourcingJul 16, 2026
Ekati to Close, Leaving Canada With One Diamond Mine The diamond mine, which opened nearly 30 years ago in Canada’s Northwest Territories, is expected to shut down by mid-August.
FinancialsJul 16, 2026
Richemont’s Jewelry Sales Soar for the Seventh Quarter in a RowJewelry sales for the company, which owns Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Vhernier, and Buccellati, rose 21 percent in the first quarter.
Events & AwardsJul 16, 2026
MJSA Mentor & Apprenticeship Program Certifies First Advanced Apprentice GraduateThe graduate, Grace Barden, credited the program with helping her secure a job as a bench jeweler.
Events & AwardsJul 16, 2026
Jewelers of Louisiana to Host 80th ConventionThe event, scheduled for next month in New Orleans, will include dinner, a custom jewelry design contest, and education sessions.
SourcingJul 15, 2026
1,305-Carat Diamond Recovered from Mine in BotswanaThe yet-to-be named stone is the 10th diamond weighing more than 1,000 carats to come out of Lucara’s Karowe mine.
IndependentsJul 15, 2026
New Jersey Jeweler Barry Berman Dies at 81The founder of Fords Jewelers, Berman is remembered for his love of connecting with his community.
FinancialsJul 15, 2026
Watches of Switzerland’s US Sales Jump 18%, Declines to Comment on Sale Report The watch and jewelry retailer had a strong fiscal year despite what its CEO described as a “complex operating backdrop.”
Events & AwardsJul 15, 2026
Hamptons Jewelry Show to Return in JulyThe open-to-the-public luxury jewelry and timepiece show, in its second year, is slated for July 23-26.
