Auctions

Shipwreck Emerald Sells for More Than $1M at Auction

AuctionsDec 08, 2022

Shipwreck Emerald Sells for More Than $1M at Auction

The 5.27-carat stone, salvaged from the wreck of the Spanish ship Nuestra Señora de Atocha, blew pre-sale estimates out of the water.

20221208_Shipwreck emerald.jpg
This 5.27-carat emerald ring that belonged to author and philanthropist Mitzi Perdue and was pulled from a 400-year-old shipwreck sold for more than a $1 million at Sotheby’s jewelry auction Wednesday. AGL confirmed in an updated report that it is a Colombian emerald that has undergone only minor, standard clarity enhancement, Sotheby’s said.
New York—An emerald recovered from a 400-year-old shipwreck blew pre-sale estimates out of the water Wednesday at Sotheby’s “Magnificent Jewels” sale in New York.
 
Estimated at $50,000-$70,000, the 5.27-carat octagonal step-cut emerald mounted on a gold band sold for $1.2 million after a five-minute round of bidding. 
 
Recovered in its rough form, the emerald was among the treasures salvaged from the wreck of the Spanish ship Nuestra Señora de Atocha, which was sailing back to Spain from Colombia and Panama when it sunk amid a storm in the Florida Keys in September 1622.
 
Treasure hunters found the lost ship in 1985.
 
One of the financial backers of its recovery was the late Frank Perdue, longtime head of Perdue Farms.
 
While Perdue donated some of the treasures pulled from the shipwreck, he had one rough emerald cut and mounted into the ring he used to propose to his wife, Mitzi Perdue (née Henderson), an author and philanthropist, in 1988.
 
The emerald came to Sotheby’s directly from her collection, with all the proceeds from its sale benefitting humanitarian efforts in Ukraine. 
 
“Outside of its superb color, cut, clarity and size, when one considers that this gem is part of one of the richest discoveries of sunken treasure in all of history, the appeal to collectors in search of superlatives is extraordinary,” said Sotheby’s senior jewelry specialist Alexander Eblen. 
 
“It’s been a privilege to have been a chapter in the emerald’s continued storybook journey, and to know that the proceeds will benefit such a worthy cause.” 
 
When Sotheby’s originally announced the stone’s sale last month, the emerald’s weight was reported as 6.25 carats. 

Sotheby’s said Thursday the previously reported weight was an approximation derived from measurements, explaining that the stone was in a bezel setting when Mitzi brought it to the auction house, which did not allow its specialists to see its full breadth.  

Prior to the sale, she allowed the auction house to remove the emerald from its mounting and have it evaluated by American Gemological Laboratories, which determined its exact carat weight. 
 
 Related stories will be right here … 
 
Part of Sotheby’s “Magnificent Jewels” sale in New York, the emerald was one of a number of notable jewels up for auction Wednesday in a sale that totaled $50 million and was 81 percent sold by lot. 
 
The 303-carat “Golden Canary” diamond found a buyer, as did eight of the nine pieces of Egyptian Revival jewelry offered by Sotheby’s as a nod to the 100th anniversary of the discovery of King Tut’s tomb.

20221208_Desert brooch.jpg
German goldsmith Gustav Manz collaborated with Arts & Crafts jewelry designer F. Walter Lawrence on the “Desert” brooch. When lit from behind, the glass has an amber glow “capturing the magic and mystery of ancient Egypt,” Sotheby’s said.

Their sale totaled $1.8 million.
 
Among the highlights was the circa 1901 gold and ancient glass “Desert” brooch pictured above, which sold for three times more than excepted. Estimated to go for $10,000 to $15,000, a buyer paid $44,100 for the piece. 
 
A diamond and colored stone bracelet from Lacloche Frères garnered $1.2 million while a pair of Lacloche Frères ear clips circa 1925 garnered $352,800, toward the low end of their estimated range of $300,000-$500,000. 
 

A brooch from Castellani featuring a scarab made out of Egyptian faience (a ceramic material) and carved with the baboon god sold for $63,000 against an estimate of $50,000 to $150,000. 
 
Another jewel from the Italian jewelry house—a gold necklace featuring micromosaic and scarabs carved in soapstone estimated at $450,000 to $600,000—was the lone Egyptian Revival piece that did not sell.
 
 
An Egyptian Revival necklace Louis Comfort Tiffany made for Tiffany & Co. in 1913, pictured directly above, sold for $75,600, near the top end of its estimated range of $60,000 to $80,000. 
 
The double-strand necklace features an amulet with an oval-shaped lapis lazuli cabochon suspended from a double strand of gold, lapis lazuli, turquoise, carnelian, and green hardstone beads.  
 
Sotheby’s said the necklace can be viewed as a modern interpretation of an ancient Egyptian “menat,” a type of beaded necklace intended to bring good luck, fortune, and protection.

The Latest

Shot of attendees at a JA New York jewelry trade show
Events & AwardsMay 22, 2026
Instore Buys JA New York Show

The deal closed this week, which means Instore will produce the JA NY show slated to take place this fall.

Buccellati Waikiki gold and diamond earrings
FinancialsMay 22, 2026
Richemont’s Jewelry Brands Lead the Charge in Q4

The company’s jewelry sales were up in Q4 and the fiscal year, with Richemont raising prices in part because of the cost of gold.

Leigh Maxwell Bauble Earrings
CollectionsMay 22, 2026
Leigh Maxwell Celebrates 5 Years at Couture With ‘Bauble’ Collection

The “Bauble” capsule collection of colorful one-of-a-kinds includes our Piece of the Week, the “Bauble” earrings, featuring rose zircon.

PG-05-SHOT-2-LUCIDA.033 1.png
Brought to you by
All Eyes on Gold Prices. Alternatives to Look For. And What to BEWARE of in Vegas

As gold prices rise, today’s retailers are looking for alternatives at prices that will appeal to wider audiences.

Stuller 2026-2027 packaging and display catalog
MajorsMay 22, 2026
Stuller’s New Packaging, Display Catalog Is Out

The updated catalog has a newly dedicated section for gift wrapping.

Weekly QuizMay 21, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
My Next Question, Episode 5: Amanda Gizzi, Michelle Graff, Frank Everett
PodcastsMay 21, 2026
Episode 5: Sotheby’s Frank Everett Puts the Auction Market in Perspective

Everett covers colored stones’ surging popularity, the mellow return of the “Mellon Blue,” and his “The Devil Wears Prada” doppelgänger.

Springer’s Jewelers new flagship rendering
IndependentsMay 21, 2026
Springer’s Jewelers’ New Flagship Will Serve Next-Gen Luxury Shoppers

Fourth-generation CEO Lilly Mullen wants to emphasize experience, connection, and personalized service.

1872x1052-NextGem-2026-National-Jeweler-Advertorial.jpg
Brought to you by
How Modern Training Is Becoming a Competitive Advantage for Jewelry Retailers

With the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.

Nina Pugliese
Events & AwardsMay 21, 2026
JA Announces Nina Pugliese Memorial Scholarship

The new award, created in partnership with Henne Jewelers, honors the late designer’s legacy through supporting jewelry education.

WFDB International Summit
SourcingMay 21, 2026
Botswana, Angola Join WFDB

The addition of the diamond-producing countries as nation affiliated members broadens the federation’s global representation, WFDB said.

Jewelry scam flyer and police officer handing flyer to elderly man
CrimeMay 20, 2026
NYPD Warns of Jewelry Swap Scams Targeting Seniors

The NYPD is warning elderly New Yorkers to keep their jewelry hidden when walking outside to avoid being a target.

New Adornment & Theory jewelry store in West Town, Chicago
IndependentsMay 20, 2026
Adornment & Theory’s New Store Feels Like Home

Designer Viviana Langhoff has realized her dream of owning a space for her Chicago jewelry store that looks and feels like her brand.

Couture Show Logo
Events & AwardsMay 20, 2026
Here Is Couture’s 2026 Education Lineup

The sessions will run from Friday, May 29, to Sunday, May 31, with one being a live taping of an episode of Couture’s podcast.

Morgan P. Richardson
Lab-GrownMay 20, 2026
Savannah Friedkin Jewelry Names New CEO

Former Stephanie Gottlieb Fine Jewelry executive Morgan P. Richardson is joining the lab-grown diamond jewelry brand.

Audemars Piguet x Swatch white Royal Pop watch
WatchesMay 19, 2026
Here’s the AP x Swatch Pocket Watch That Caused Pandemonium

The $400 pocket watch is a blend of Audemars Piguet’s iconic eight-sided Royal Oak and Swatch’s unserious Pop watches from the ‘80s.

Chris Ploof Modern Electrum Collection Milgrain Rows and Diamonds Ring
CollectionsMay 19, 2026
Chris Ploof’s New Collection Makes an Ancient Metal Modern

With gold prices on the rise, the “Modern Electrum” collection uses an alternative, non-tarnishing metal alloy composed of gold and silver.

Ellen and Michael Fruchtman
IndependentsMay 19, 2026
Ellen and Michael Fruchtman Retire, Sell Marketing Agency

Fruchtman Marketing has new owners, Erin Moyer-Carballea and Manuel Carballea, and will relocate to Miami.

Peter Smith and National Jeweler contributor
ColumnistsMay 19, 2026
Peter Smith: The (Mostly) Immutable Sales Truths

In a column for the 2026 State of the Majors issue, Smith lists 10 time-tested principles about sales that still ring true.

Edahn Golan, Tenoris co-founder and National Jeweler contributor
ColumnistsMay 18, 2026
Edahn Golan: What a K-Shaped Economy Means for Fine Jewelry

In a column for the 2026 State of the Majors issue, Golan spells out how the growing economic divide in the U.S. is reshaping the market.

Foundrae Limitless Expansion of Joy and Hope Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsMay 18, 2026
Foundrae’s New Collection Taps Into Joy

The “Limitless Expansion of Joy and Hope” collection evokes summer through colored gemstones and motifs of butterflies and florals.

Inchiquin emerald
CollectionsMay 18, 2026
Hancocks London Acquires Historic ‘Inchiquin’ Emerald

The jewel, circa 1890, is from the late Victorian era and was owned by descendants of the last high king of Ireland.

JCK Industry Fund Logo
Events & AwardsMay 18, 2026
Here Are the 2026 JCK Industry Fund Grant Recipients

This is what the nine recipients plan to do with the funds.

MJSA Education Foundation and Jewelers of America
Events & AwardsMay 15, 2026
JA, MJSA To Sponsor Roundtable at TJS

The discussion, "Rebuilding the Jewelry Workforce," will take place on Saturday, May 16, in Troy, Michigan.

Three gold rings set with yellow- and brown-hued diamonds
SourcingMay 15, 2026
State of Diamonds: The Way Forward for Natural Diamonds

The jewelry industry is reassessing its positioning as Gen Z reshapes the retail landscape and lab grown continues to gain market share.

DeBeeers_Bridal_Display_Dune_1872x1052.jpg
Supplier BulletinMay 14, 2026
A Diamond Is Forever Continues Desert Diamonds – Bridal Reinvigorated

Sponsored by A Diamond Is Forever

Faceting Apprentice gem cutting school
SourcingMay 14, 2026
State of Colored Stones: The Spirit of Young American Gemstone Cutters

The next generation of lapidarists are entrepreneurial, engaged online, and see the craft as a means for artistic expression.

Ocean Dream diamond
AuctionsMay 14, 2026
‘Ocean Dream’ Makes Waves at Christie’s, Fetching $17M

It was the second auction appearance for the fancy vivid blue-green diamond, which sold for $7.8 million at Christie’s Geneva 12 years ago.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy