Grading

GIA Finds Lab-Growns, Simulant in Parcel of ‘Natural’ Sapphires

GradingSep 07, 2022

GIA Finds Lab-Growns, Simulant in Parcel of ‘Natural’ Sapphires

It offered a look at how synthetics and simulants “can be mixed with their natural counterparts to misrepresent a parcel,” the lab said.

20220907_GIA-header.jpg
These four stones were sent into GIA’s Carlsbad lab as natural sapphires, but three of them are not. GIA determined they were, from left to right, a 48.63-carat piece of man-made glass, 9.17-carat and 6.21-carat lab-grown sapphires, and an 8.46-carat natural blue sapphire rough. (Photo credit: Annie Haynes)
Carlsbad, Calif.—The Gemological Institute of America found two lab-grown stones and a simulant in a group submitted to its Carlsbad laboratory as natural sapphires.

According to a lab note written by Najmeh Anjomani in GIA’s Summer 2022 Gems & Gemology issue, its Carlsbad lab recently received four rough blue stones submitted as natural sapphires for identification and origin reports.

The largest weighed 48.63 carats. It was partially fashioned, GIA said, with evidence of polish lines on its surface.

Examination under a microscope revealed gas bubbles, distinct flow marks, and conchoidal fractures, while the polariscope revealed weak snake pattern bands. Its hydrostatic specific gravity (SG) was 2.48.

All these observations together suggested a glass imitation, GIA said, which was confirmed by comparing the infrared spectrum with that of man-made glass.

Two of the other submitted blue stones, weighing 9.17 carats and 6.21 carats, were “more convincing imitations of natural sapphire,” GIA said.

20220907_GIA-insert.jpg
This photo shows the curved blue banding visible in the 6.21-carat laboratory-grown sapphire after being immersed in water. (Photo credit: Najmeh Anjomani)

There was a resin coating their surfaces that resembled a matrix commonly seen on natural rough corundum. GIA said the resin started to melt when touched with a hot point. 

And though their rough surfaces made it difficult to see inside the stones, GIA was able to observe a few gas bubbles through a transparent area. 

It also performed Raman spectroscopy, the results of which matched corundum, and immersed the stones in water, revealing curved blue banding. 

GIA said laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) revealed trace elements matching synthetic corundum. SG values were found to be 3.76 and 3.59, respectively, both of which are below the SG of corundum (3.9-4.05) and are a result of the lower SG of the surface resin. 

The lab issued reports for both identifying them as lab-grown sapphires. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

Finally, the fourth rough blue stone submitted weighed 8.46 carats. 

It had a “frosted” natural surface that made it hard to see inside, but GIA said it was able to observe some natural-looking fingerprints and strong, straight “inky” blue banding. 

The lab immersed the stone in methylene iodide to confirm the color zoning it saw was straight, an indication of a natural origin. 

The Raman spectrum matched that of corundum, further confirmed by SG of 3.96. 

GIA put the stone under shortwave UV and saw a medium chalky blue fluorescence. 

LA-ICP-MS revealed a natural chemistry, including iron and trace elements such as gallium, vanadium, magnesium, chromium, and titanium.

Given its appearance, color zoning, and chemistry, the stone was identified as a natural sapphire, with its report noting it had been heated and was of Madagascar origin. 

Anjomani said in the lab note that the four submitted stones provided an “interesting study of how synthetics and simulants can be mixed with their natural counterparts to misrepresent a parcel.”

The author noted, however, that “careful examination and standard gemological testing are usually enough to identify them correctly.” 

Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Robinson Pelham Tsar Star Earrings in Blaze
CollectionsDec 05, 2025
Piece of the Week: Robinson Pelham’s ‘Tsar Star’ Earrings

The new pink sapphire version of the piece dances with its wearer in the brand’s “Icons After Dark” holiday campaign.

Pantone 11-4201 Cloud Dancer
TrendsDec 05, 2025
Pantone’s Color of the Year for 2026 Is … White

A choice that’s generated a lot of commentary, Pantone says “Cloud Dancer” marks a fresh start and encourages relaxation and creativity.

Stuller holiday 2025
MajorsDec 05, 2025
Stuller Releases ‘Wrapped in Wonder’ Campaign

The manufacturer’s holiday campaign features a gift guide filled with trending designs and jewelry that can be personalized.

Recipients Collage 2025 - NJ (1872 x 1050 px) (1872 x 1052 px).png
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow Today

How Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.

Fabergé x 007 Octopussy egg and pendant
CrimeDec 04, 2025
Man Arrested After Allegedly Swallowing Fabergé Egg Pendant

The man was charged with theft, accused of ingesting the necklace while in a jewelry store in Auckland, New Zealand.

Weekly QuizDec 04, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Exterior of renovated and expanded J.R. Dunn Jewelers
IndependentsDec 04, 2025
Step Inside JR Dunn Jewelers’ Giant New Store

The Florida independent expanded its store from 8,000 to 14,000 square feet, fulfilling the vision of its late co-founder, Jim Dunn.

DD-Email-Image-1872x1052 (1).jpg
Supplier BulletinDec 04, 2025
Introducing Shop Natural Day: A New Movement Celebrating Natural Diamonds

Sponsored by De Beers Group

roseco-catalog.png
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line Catalog

Roseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.

G-Shock DWN5600 Ring
WatchesDec 04, 2025
Casio Shrinks its G-Shock Watch

The classic 5600 series G-Shock has been scaled down to about a tenth of its size, becoming a fully functioning watch ring.

Accredited Gemologists Association logo
Events & AwardsDec 04, 2025
AGA Announces 2026 Tucson Speaker Lineup

The association’s annual conference and gala will take place Feb. 4, 2026, during the Tucson gem shows.

 CBG logo
Events & AwardsDec 04, 2025
CBG Announces Speaker Lineup for 2026 Miami Event

The January show will include a workshop for jewelry retailers on implementing AI to strengthen their businesses.

Miley Cyrus and Maxx Morando Engagement Ring
TrendsDec 03, 2025
Miley Cyrus Debuts Edgy Engagement Ring

Fellow musician Maxx Morando proposed to the star with a chunky, cushion-cut diamond ring designed by Jacquie Aiche.

Costco store
Policies & IssuesDec 03, 2025
Costco Joins Growing Wave of Retailers Suing for Tariff Refunds

The retailer, which sells billions in fine jewelry and watches, is suing the Trump administration and U.S. Customs and Border Patrol.

Shoppers in a mall
SurveysDec 03, 2025
A Record 202.9M Shoppers Turned Out Thanksgiving Weekend

Black Friday is still the most popular shopping day over the five-day holiday weekend, as per the National Retail Federation’s survey.

Faberge The Winter Egg
AuctionsDec 03, 2025
Fabergé’s 'The Winter Egg' Achieves Record $30M

The historic egg, crafted for Russia's ruling family prior to the revolution, was the star of Christie’s recent auction of works by Fabergé.

Vera Wang Love lab grown diamond engagement ring
FinancialsDec 02, 2025
Signet Jewelers’ Q3 Sales Up Amid Continued Focus on Lower Price Points

The retailer offered more fashion jewelry priced under $1,000, including lab-grown diamond and men’s jewelry.

Briony Raymond holding Briony Raymond Eau De Parfum
CollectionsDec 02, 2025
Briony Raymond Introduces First Fragrance

The eau de parfum is held in a fluted glass bottle that mirrors the decor of the brand’s atelier, and its cap is a nod to its “Sloan” ring.

The Finsch diamond mine in South Africa, owned by Petra Diamonds Ltd.
SourcingDec 02, 2025
Petra Diamonds Elevates Interim CEOs to Permanent Status

Vivek Gadodia and Juan Kemp, who’ve been serving as interim co-CEOs since February, will continue to lead the diamond mining company.

Lee Krombholz, Michael Coan, Donna DeLucia, Joanna Joy Seetoo
MajorsDec 02, 2025
Lee Krombholz Takes Over as Chair of MJSA Education Foundation

In addition, a slate of new officers and trustees were appointed to the board.

Retail Jewelers Organization logo
IndependentsDec 02, 2025
RJO Welcomes Its 1,200th Retail Member

Witt’s Jewelry in Wayne, Nebraska, is the organization’s new milestone member.

Gemologist, geologist, and editor Brendan M. Laurs
SourcingDec 02, 2025
Brendan Laurs Honored With 2025 Bonanno Award

Laurs is the editor-in-chief of Gem-A’s The Journal of Gemmology and an expert on the formation of colored gemstone deposits.

Empress Eugénie pearl and diamond tiara
CrimeDec 01, 2025
Fourth Man Charged in Louvre Jewelry Heist

The man, who has a criminal history, is suspected of being the fourth member of the four-man crew that carried out the heist.

Van Cleef & Arpels zipper necklace Christies
AuctionsDec 01, 2025
Christie’s Presents ‘Splendor & Style’ Collection

The single-owner collection includes one of the largest offerings of Verdura jewels ever to appear at auction, said Christie’s.

Lustig Jewelers employees in store
IndependentsDec 01, 2025
Lustig Jewelers’ New Owner Is a Fellow Chicago Jeweler

Michael Helfer has taken the reins, bringing together two historic Chicago jewelry names.

Retrouvaí Classic Diamond Domino Necklace and Kwiat Entwine Platinum and Diamond Drop Earrings
MajorsDec 01, 2025
PGI Debuts Platinum-Filled Holiday Gift Guide

The guide features all-new platinum designs for the holiday season by brands like Harwell Godfrey, Ritani, and Suna.

Movado Connect 2.0 watches
FinancialsNov 26, 2025
Movado CEO Talks Tariffs, Growing Interest in Accessible Luxury Watches

During its Q3 call, CEO Efraim Grinberg discussed the deal to lower tariffs on Swiss-made watches, watch market trends, and more.

Rosior Pumpkin Ring
TrendsNov 26, 2025
Piece of the Week: Rosior’s Pumpkin Ring

Rosior’s high jewelry cocktail ring with orange sapphires and green diamonds is the perfect Thanksgiving accessory.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy